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🖥️ActiveHome Pro => SDK => Topic started by: marineau on December 09, 2006, 01:20:40 PM

Title: Blink, Timer, Lamp Module
Post by: marineau on December 09, 2006, 01:20:40 PM
Does I can to damage Lamp module (Blink for Christmas decoration), if in my SDK programm I use a timer to
turn ON and OFF a lamp modul to each two seconds (2000 ms) ?

Title: Re: Blink, Timer, Lamp Module
Post by: Brian H on December 09, 2006, 01:49:38 PM
How close to the full rating of the lamp modules wattage are you going to use?
The lamps may not have a great life from the constant cycling.
We know that the Security Console; if not reset; can cycle a lamp module at a 1 second interval for 4 minutes. So at least 4 minutes is possible.
I don't think you would damage the module unless you where close to the maximum wattage X10 says the module can control and the bulbs cooled enough to have a cold surge everytime the on is sent..
Remember this 2 second cycle is going to flood your system with X10 signals and other things will not work when the lights are cycling.
Another thing to consider. What is the duty cycle of the controller. It may not like sending a stream of X10 signals for long periods of time either.
Title: Re: Blink, Timer, Lamp Module
Post by: marineau on December 09, 2006, 02:10:30 PM
Brian,

You are right, I will flood the network, and i will lost many others command  (I use a TM751)…   I will abandonment (forget) my idea, and buy a old module (old of 1965) and manufactured for this !!!  Maybe that these old module exist still today !!!
Title: Re: Blink, Timer, Lamp Module
Post by: TakeTheActive on December 09, 2006, 03:19:05 PM

...buy a old module (old of 1965) and manufactured for this !!!  Maybe that these old module exist still today !!!

Title: Re: Blink, Timer, Lamp Module
Post by: Puck on December 09, 2006, 05:22:17 PM
[
  • SPST Relay with contacts rated for 120VAC, 10A with 12VDC Coil
  • 12VDC Power Supply (wall wart?)
  • 120VAC Outlet(s)
  • Utility Box
  • Automotive Turn Signal Flasher Module (2-lamp model for lowest current requirements)
  • Power Resistor (to increase current draw if Relay Coil won't actuate Flasher Module). :-[
  • <BIG GRIN!> ;D

N i c e
:D :)
Title: Re: Blink, Timer, Lamp Module
Post by: roger1818 on December 11, 2006, 02:55:47 PM
  • SPST Relay with contacts rated for 120VAC, 10A with 12VDC Coil
  • 12VDC Power Supply (wall wart?)
  • 120VAC Outlet(s)
  • Utility Box
  • Automotive Turn Signal Flasher Module (2-lamp model for lowest current requirements)
  • Power Resistor (to increase current draw if Relay Coil won't actuate Flasher Module). :-[
  • <BIG GRIN!> ;D

And the whole thing could be plugged into an appliance module.

Alternately you could forego the flasher and 12V powersupply and use a rectifying diode, a capacitor and a 120V SPDT relay.  The off position of the relay would be connected through the diode and across the capacitor (to neutral) to the relay coil.  The value of the capacitor would have to be chosen to match the coil resistance of the relay to produce the correct RC time constant.
Title: Re: Blink, Timer, Lamp Module
Post by: gil shultz on August 29, 2007, 01:30:12 AM
Good Evening,

It will not damage your module, it has a triac as the output device and this is electronic, not mechanical. 
 
The cycling will degrade the life of the lamps but not by that much.  The cold surge will not be as bad as the first cycle as the filament has not had time to fully cool.

Depending on what is on your network you have the possibility of flooding your network which would manifest itself in other portions behaving erratic. 

My solution would be to go to the local dime store and purchase some lamp flashers.  They simply drop into the socket, screw in a bulb and presto they flash at about your rate.  A lamp adapter with a plug and a relay with a 115V (230V) coil would be very inexpensive.  You could use a low voltage relay and a brick that would work as well. Mount the relay in a 4x4  metal electrical box with a single duplex cover.  Use a box connector to bring in the two wires, one for the coil, the other to power the load.  Hook the green wire to the box and the green screw on the duplex.  Connect the white wire to the white screw an the black to the Common of the relay.  The Normally Open contact is then connected to the brass screw on the duplex receptacle.  If you want to get fancy break the bar between the two brass screws and connect the Normally Closed Contact to the other screw.  The outlets will then alternate.

Have Fun
Gil Shultz