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🛡Home Security => Problems and Troubleshooting => Topic started by: bill salisbury on June 10, 2005, 07:25:46 PM
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Has anyone figured out if there is any type <BR>of Security Siren that I can hook uo to my <BR>Radio Shack Security System 49-1000
Help! RS Plug n' Power Alarm #49-1000 & X10 #49-1119 (Any X10 Siren Compatibility?) [1 of 4] (http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?topic=6654.msg43822#msg43822)
Re: Help! RS Plug n' Power Alarm #49-1000 & X10 #49-1119 (Any X10 Siren Compatibility?) [3 of 4] (http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?topic=12350.msg44708#msg44708)
Re: Help! RS Plug n' Power Alarm #49-1000 & X10 #49-1119 (Any X10 Siren Compatibility?) [4 of 4] (http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?topic=12351.msg45142#msg45142)
[TTA Edit: Experiment to determine whether or not SPLITTING 'Highly-Viewed' / 'Highly-Replied' but currently
INACTIVE threads from LONG, LONG AGO (I'm starting with ~2 years) into parts will allow current
ACTIVE threads to appear in the Top 10 Topics (by Replies) section of the
Statistics Center (aka More Stats) (http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?action=stats) Page.
NOTE: I *WILL* address the <BR> problem...]
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I am still testing relays that can be used
to trigger an external siren. One thing I
have found the RS 49-1000 uses an output
transformer to drive the piezo transducer
and it is a fairly high voltage and very low
current that this type of transducer likes.
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Brian H
If you findout how to do it let me know
e-mail bill.salisbury@us.aemy.mil
Thanks
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Bill am assembling the test board and hope
to try it tomorrow. If you have not looked
at the mseeage thread
'yet another siren question' started by Leo
you may find some things there also. There
are afew others on the 49-1000 and X10
Sirens and the Sonic SS-300 not working
properly. One of them has my test results
showing the difference between what a DS7000
sends and the 49-1000 sends. Also what the
X10 Powerhorns PH508 and SH10A respond to.
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Well very mixed results. With the most
sensative relay I could find. 24 volt; 3 ma.
DC with a bridge rectifier of 4 fast
switching diodes and a 22 uf 50VDC cap. The
thing loaded down the piezo transducers
driver to the point it was just about
audible. Also may have overloaded the driver
transformer. So it looked like the relay
switched was about 26 VDC on it but it may
kill all the internal transducers output.
No a primetime ready thing?
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Brian:
You are so far advanced in Electronics than I
would ever think about being, I am just
trying to install the Radio Shack system and
the alarm is to low for even a Burgaler with
really good hearing to know that it was tripped.
I wanted something so that when the door or
window is opened that someone gets scared.
Most of the time it will be my wife that
forgets that the alarm is still turned on
when she goes out to get the paper at 6:00 AM.
Thanks for the advice and it you get it to
work let me know.
Bill S
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purchased 49-1000 Plug n' Power wireless
security system.Installation & initial set
up went ok,but once I open a door or window
the consul error code shows a zone is open
and I cannot get code to go off unless I
reset, but the problem comes up again. Door
senson magnet & module light flashes to
indicate open & closed?? Batteries are
good, magnets are properly aligned and door
is closed! Any suggestions or remedies?
Thnx.
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Dennis
I am having the same problem with 2 of my
door sensors, Boyh of them have a brick wall
between the Sensor and the main unit.
I was thinking that maybe the signal just
don't work well through the Brick.
Also the sensors that I have installed are on
their side, (Maybe the magnet isn't strong
enough or something)
Any one have any suggestions?
Bill
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OH WOW! I have been looking and looking
and finally I am finding somebody that is
having the same problem as me!!! Dennis, I
have took mine back and I am on my second
security system now and it's like after
about 2 days I get the same problem as
you! What I did just to check is took a
peice of speaker wire and stuck it in the
hole that says ANT on the door/window
sensor and then put the cover back on. SO
FAR this has worked. But I am going to
wait a few days just to be sure. ANYBODY
ELSE HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS???? My security
system is over 30 days old now and I can't
take it back.
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Have you tried to set Power horn at device
13. It work for me. Good luck
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Please Email ME> Billycrtr2@aol.com
Bought a powerhouse powerhorn model number
ph508 to work with my 49-1000 security
system and having no luck PLEASE HELP !
THANKS!!!
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I need a external or an internal siren for
my 49-1000 Security alarm please email me
if you know what to do billycrtr2@aol.com
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Have the plug n power 49-1000 can't get it
to call phone number
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Let me know what you think of this remote
siren work-around for use with the Plug n'
Power Alarm Cat # 49-1000 ----
1. Purchase the lamp module--- Cat #
61-3002
2. program the lamp module to go on if
the alarm is triggered—
3. plug the module into an outlet (in
the area you want alerted by alarm)
4. plug in a 2 or 3
socket/receptacle/AC splitter or extension
cord directly into the lamp module
5. plug in one 75W-300W or greater
lamp or spotlight into one of the splitter/
extension cord receptacles (radio shack
says that 60W is the minimum necessary)—do
not use fluorescent/energy saver/or low
Voltage lamps.
6. Plug in an AC siren into one of the
other receptacles on the splitter/extension
cord
This way if any of the devices
(window/door/motion) are tripped it will
send the signal to the lamp module(s) as
the alarm goes off thus sounding the
alarm. Your thoughts and feedback are
appreciated.
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Maybe a work around. One point. If you use
an All Lights ON command the siren will
sound. Also I believe the light codes on the
console light the lamps for arm away for 1
minute.
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You're probably right on the "all lights
on" command--I'm not sure on the "away"
setting-Since this is going to be for a
detached Garage I don't think my neighbors
world care for the siren sounding for a
minute every night and morning:( --will
test tonight.
One other note--instead of an AC
siren/Alarm I will be using a DC-
siren/Alarm with a 12v adapter.
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Lamp modules don't like transformers, but
the 75 watt lamp maybe enough to keep things
happy. Just don't try to dim it.
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Hey Everyone, I purchaced my Radioshack 49-
1000 Wireless Alarm System probably around
5-6 months now, and I haven't really had
any problems with it, but the siren
included in the console is not very loud...
So I decided to purchace the SH10A from
www.smarthome.com, and It is expected to
come on 08-16-05.. I hope it works.. I
talked to Smarthome Tech Support, and to
RadioShack, and they said it should have no
problem working, since Plug `n Power is the
same as x10, only Plug `n Power is owned by
RadioShack.. Well if anyone has any
techniques or tips on making this work..
Please write me.. I am getting a little
worried about this, since everyone in the
forum is saying that they are not able to
get it to work... Eventhough I haven't
recieved it yet.. :( Hope it works :-) or I
will definately be on the phone with
RadioShack Corp. Please write me with ANY!
info..
Thanks,
Leo - LiLiTaLiAnO3591@AOL.COM
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Both the PH508 and the SH10a will not work
correctly with the 49-1000. Both need a
cycling of ON; OFF signals on the House/Unit
code set on the code dials or an All Light
ON; All Units OFF [All Lights OFF also works]
At about a 1 to 2 second interval [my tests
show any slower than every two seconds will
not trigger either unit] and they trigger at
about the forth cycle. The 49-1000 does send
an ON; OFF cycle when triggered but also
does the next highest address. Like A1 and
A2. The timing or the added address messes
up both Powerhorns.
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I was reading lastnight in the 49-1000
manual, that the Lightcode 1&2 only respond
to the lights on lights off, because when
the alarm actully goes off, the lamp
modules setup, online flash if they are set
on lightcode 1 or 2, it also confirms that
in the manual... Just a try.. Maybe or
maybe not...
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Yes by default, if you don't change it in
the setup. A1 and A2 are the two codes
flashed. If you change the light code the
next in line also is set. If you pick 16 as
the lightcode the second one loops back to 1.
I did some tests to see what the 49-1000
sends out when tripped. In a Panic Trip [may
not be in the manual. Push both the arm and
disarm button on the remote for a panic
trip]. Used B1 and B2 only because most of
my stuff is defaulted to the A House Codes.
It sends:
B1
B2
BON
B1
B2
BOff
Cycle continues till timeout or disarmed
The Powerhorns SH10a and PH580 are designed
to trip on an All Lights ON All Units OFF
from a DS7000 or the older RS Console. They
will also sound if they receive an ON OFF
cycle on the house and unit code it is set
to. It seems that the added second light
code in the 49-1000 tramsmission messes up
the timing in the Powerhorns as they need to
see the on off cycle in 1 to 2 second
intervals.
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Opps. That is PH508?
If it does not sound. You can at least test
it to see what it sounds like. I think of a
cricket on steroids. Send On Off commands
from the console; to the house unit code you
set the SH10a to. In around 1 to 2 seconds
intervals. It should sound after a few
cycles.
Want to see a strange thing?
Send in rapid set three or more ON signals
to the SH10a and it will go off and sound
for like 4 minutes even if not seeing the
cycles. Couple of offs will stop it. Or at
least that is what mine do.
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What is the difference between All lights
on, and All units off? When did you buy
your console Brian H? Just wondering.. Well
I dont know about the Powerhorn, but I just
wish it wasn't so difficult.. And the
stupid thing is, is that they sell the
PowerHorns in the security section on the
website...
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All iights ON will turn every light type
module and wall switch on the House Code ON.
Appliance Modules do not respond to an All
Lights ON command. Maybe safety as many of
those control things like coffee pots.
Though they also are used for items that
can't be dimmed. Like CFLs and Low Voltage
Lights. All Units OFF turn everything off on
the House Code. All Lights OFF only lamp
modules.
My 49-1000 was bought shortly after it was
released. I bought it mostly for testing and
experiments. Same for the storage boxes full
of X10 stuff I hardly use. I do have a
mixture of X10 and other brand modules
contolling things like CFLs and lights. Also
have an ACT Doorbell sensor that triggers a
PowerFlash module that sounds a few Chime
Modules in the cellar and back area of the
house.
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To clarify one point. Both Powerhorns
respond to a cycle of signals at about 1 to
2 second intervals.
ON OFF on the House/Unit Code it is set to.
All Lights ON; All lights OFF on the house
code it is set to.
All Lights ON; All Units OFF on the house
code it is set to.
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More problems with the X-10 Consul. One of
the zone lights came on and would not go
off. The consul also emitted 5 'chirps'
about every hour as well as showing
steady 'low battery' light. I put a new
battery in as well as setting the zone
sensor next to the consul to insure signal
was received. Still no luck. I
reprogramed everything. Both lights still
on as well as low level 'chirps.'
Beginning to think the X-10 Powerhouse is a
piece of junk. Anyone having the same
problems or have any suggestions. Unit is 2
months old.