I checked and the lights don't have an effect. My lights and fan are wired independently.
Could you tell us more about the speed control or, better yet, give us a make/model number so we could look the manual for it up up on the web?I wish I did know the model. A manual would be helpful. As this is a high ceiling, I would need a latter to reach it that I don't have. It's a standard "builders grade" fan that came with the house, less than 5 years old. The fan has your standard pull switch.
It's a standard "builders grade" fan that came with the house, less than 5 years old. The fan has your standard pull switch.
i.e. fast/med/slow/off
I wish I did know the model. A manual would be helpful. As this is a high ceiling, I would need a latter to reach it that I don't have. It's a standard "builders grade" fan that came with the house, less than 5 years old. The fan has your standard pull switch.
i.e. fast/med/slow/off
...So power is supplied to the XPFM through a standard wall switch?...The fan and the light were originally both controlled by separate wall switches. The XPFM replaced the fan's wall switch. In addition the light & fan have pull switches on the unit themselves.
...Any chance you have a "shaky" neutral connection to the XPFM (picking up noise on the neutral)?...If it did, wouldn't it be more likely to shake at the higher speed? Remember it's on the slower speeds that the switch turns back on.
...Any chance you have a "shaky" neutral connection to the XPFM (picking up noise on the neutral)?...
If it did, wouldn't it be more likely to shake at the higher speed? Remember it's on the slower speeds that the switch turns back on.Actually, I was trying to ask if you might have a poor neutral connection (high resistance) which could cause the XPFM problems. Sorry for the poor use of the word "shaky".
OldTimer - nice fan diagrams. I'm having problems figuring out the first diagram though. Seems like the speed control table doesn't match the diagram.
The numbers I found on the label are "HC1131", "82H4" and "EB1964". It's a 52 inch fan and it says it's .75 A at 120V.
The numbers I found on the label are "HC1131", "82H4" and "EB1964". It's a 52 inch fan and it says it's .75 A at 120V.
...The E81964 is the UL file number. The manufacturer is Halsey Enterprise. ... ...HC-1131 is your model numberThanks! That's a start.
I'm not sure what's going on here but I suspect back EMF from the fan motor in reduced speed mode may be triggering the XPFM module back on. Maybe someone else on the forum can chime in on this discussion.
...Large back EMF spike develops (because of the cap) when the XPFM opens the relay. This is confusing the local control....Hmm.. I wasn't aware the XPFM had local control but just verified it does.
...Can you connect a light (40W - 100W or even a 7W nightlight on an extenson cord, sans plug) across the fan leads temporarily?...Once I locate an extension cord that I can sacrifice by cutting off the plug I could make a test cord to plug a light into. The XPFM is mounted in a double gang box with a blank plate over it so it is easy to reach. (I have a picture but my editing software to reduce to an acceptable size is on my laptop and my lap top is holding its contents hostage till I find replacement memory for it.)
If putting a light in parallel works, does anyone have a recommendation for a small light that would work that I could wire in parallel and mount on the blank plate?
I tried a XPFM in a test bed and mine didn't seem to have Local Control. Though it was not inductive just a 40 watt bulb connected and disconnected to the output.
...Yes the XPFM is just an "old brown appliance module" with attached wires. If you don't mind voiding your warrenty...I don't mind doing the mod. While I'm inclined to agree that the XPFM circuit is basically the same as an "old brown appliance module", the layout inside my XPFM is significantly different from the online appliance module boards. e.g. The chip is on the opposite side of the board from as the other components and turned 90o. I'd be guessing as to what lead to cut.
...I definitely that having active control on this unit is more of a detriment than a asset. The X10pro site lists nothing about local control for the unit.Yeah and some where I think I read that it responded to an "All Lights On" also. Fortunately it doesn't.
Another case of a module being "enhanced" without a model change/notice....
...If you and Brian_H could post date codes and firmware versions, I'll add them to the database.07A05 for mine. I took a picture of the inside board also.
So what size resistor do you recommend and will it effect energy use significantly?
...(I have a picture but my editing software to reduce to an acceptable size is on my laptop and my lap top is holding its contents hostage till I find replacement memory for it.)
the layout inside my XPFM is significantly different from the online appliance module boards. e.g. The chip is on the opposite side of the board from as the other components and turned 90o. I'd be guessing as to what lead to cut.
KDR,
Why did SHRINKING the GIFs make them grainy? I would have thought smaller would be sharper, as with viewing Basic (lowest bitrate) TiVo/ReplayTV files on a 21" TV vs a 60" TV. ???
There are 2 models of the inline unit, XPFM and XPDF. Only XPFM provides local control natively. The other model allows you to wire a local switch inline to ADD local control. That one also allows dimming, where I believe your's doesn't. The piece of printed scrap paper (instructions) that was in the package goes into short deatail about it. Your situation is frustrating becasue you actually don't need the features of the XPFM you need the XPDF with abiltiy to handle inductive loads.
What is the date code on your XPFM
How did you connect the resistor?
If you connected the resistor between the Blue wire from the XPFM and the fans line wire. That was incorrect.
Connect the Blue wire to the fans line connection as you normally would. The resistor has to go from the XPFMs White to XPFMs Blue wire.
----BLUE -------*------Fan
| Resistor between the Blue and White. Blue and White not connected to each other.
|
-----White -----*------Neutral
One end of resistor to the splice of the Blue wire and the fans line wire.
Other end of resistor to the splice of the White neutral connection.
If like this it will not work Blue----------------*-resistor-*----- fan line connection.
Hope it works. Most times it does, but you know Murphy and his law. ;D