X10 Community Forum
🔌General Home Automation => Automating Your House => Topic started by: Brian H on October 10, 2005, 04:33:50 PM
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I believe you will need a macro. Triggered by the C? [unit number here] code transmitted on the powerline from the TM751. That can then have the cm15a send the on signal to the LM15a. Note conditional times may need the smart macros plug in. Have you tried a question in the AHP Forums? Yes there are a whole different set of forums for AHP. Pick an AHP Tab on any X10 page. Then pick the support tab near the top and then Forums or: www.x10.com/news/msgb/index.cgi?board=ahp-general
OP:
I have had similar problems. It's a two bulb fixture. My problem is with Activehome Pro though. It works fine from the remote but Activehome Pro is the worst piece of software it has been my misfortune to have on my computer. I can't switch it off through Activehome Pro. I *can* however, make Activehome Pro crash *every* time I use it with no problems at all.
Re: WS467 [2 of 3] (http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?topic=12384.msg45282#msg45282)
Re: WS467 [3 of 3] Energy Saver bulb flickers when off (http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?topic=12385.msg45310#msg45310)
[TTA Edit #2: Experiment to determine whether or not DELETING the OP (*AFTER* copying it into Reply #1) in 'Highly-Viewed' / 'Highly-Replied' but currently INACTIVE threads from LONG, LONG AGO (I'm starting with ~2 years) will allow current ACTIVE threads to appear in the Top 10 Topics (by Views) section of the Statistics Center (aka More Stats) (http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?action=stats) Page.]
[TTA Edit: Experiment to determine whether or not SPLITTING 'Highly-Viewed' / 'Highly-Replied' but currently INACTIVE threads from LONG, LONG AGO (I'm starting with ~2 years) into parts will allow current ACTIVE threads to appear in the Top 10 Topics (by Replies) section of the Statistics Center (aka More Stats) (http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?action=stats) Page.
NOTE: I *WILL* address the <BR> problem...]
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Rico, the software is a bit flaky, for
instance, on the 2003 server i run it on (as
thats the only machine on 24/7), i *have* to
run it in 'win xp' compatibility mode
otherwise it crashes every time, and the few
times it did start, it was rather unstable.
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Are you running it on 2003 server? Mine
crashes every time, or is horribly unstable.
I run it in XP compatibility mode, works
fine then.
The problem may lay in where the CM15a
module is plugged into.
It sounds more like a software problem. If
the socket works from the remotes, chances
are it works fine.
There are a few other options for home
automation software out there. Some are
free, others arn't. MrHouse, free but you
need to have some coding know how. Smart
home, have to buy a setup similar to x10,
but there software is a bit more stable I
hear.
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And here is the fix, found on a site linked
to me in an earlier thread.
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Fixing module that randomly turns on
Credit: Steve Bloom - newsgroup post
The WS467 wall switch (and I suspect it's
variations, as well) does indeed "randomly"
turn on.
Specifically, under the correct conditions,
a WS467 can "glitch" on due to a power spike
from a large bank of magnetic ballast
fluorescents on the same circuit, large
motor, etc. And filter caps across the 78566
chip, resistor change in the "button" line
nor MOVs do not help.
The solution is actually quite simple, once
it is figured out. The 78566 chip in the
WS467 contains 2 unused pins (pin #8 and pin
#9) who's function is unknown to me.
However, manipulation of pin #9 can cause
the WS467 to turn on the light.
After discovering this, I have since tied
pin #9 to -v and the "random" light turnons
have stopped. My personal preference is to
install a 10K 1/8-1/4w resistor across the
top of the ic between pin #9 and pin #18. A
hard wire will probably be ok, but not
acceptable standard practice when dealing
with bidirectional I/O pins.
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Now my question is, since I can't fix them
myself (limited soldering cabalities).
I just spent about 130+ bucks on wall
switches that are basically garbage. Now I
have to repurchase 10 decorator switches or
pro switches, that are even more expensive.
Are the new switches wired the same as the
old? As I am *not* going to waste 200+ bucks
replacing all these switches with the pro's
only to find out they do the same thing.
I guess its just another reason to move from
x10's inability to fix (by adding a 2cent
resitor) a product to insteons, works right
the first damn time products.
Thanks for taking me for 130 and some change
x10! I do appreciate it. *grumble*
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You would want to check the draw on it
first. I would imagine a pro switch would
work fine, or a decorator switch.
I don't understand why it would need to be
hooked to gas valves etc. I would think the
simpler solution is just put it on a wall
switch. Maybe I just can't picture what your
talking about.
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The X10 WS12a wires in the same as the other
ones you have. Biggest difference is it can
do local dimming. Tap the paddle to go on or
off. Hold it and it dims to zero then
brightens to 100%. Some of the other brands
like Smarthome and Leviton also need the
Neutral wire in the switch box. So do you
remember if there was a neutral wire in the
box not used. X10 Pro stuff for the most
part [not all of them] is the same as X10s
with a different label and I think a longer
warantee.
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I asked the questions as I am very aware
that the combination fo gas and
electrricity is the same thing that goes
poof on my BBQ! As for the wall switch, if
it isn't in the 110 circuit, it would not
get the signal, right? I just thought I
remember the cheesy video on the X10 site
showing a fireplace lighting.
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X-10 does make a module similar to an
appliance module that plugs into 110vac and
receives an X-10 code which in turn closes
a set of dry contacts (brought out to screw
terminals) - perfect for what you may need
here - but you would have to extend the
existing switch wires to it or course. I
don't remember what they called it though -
sorry.
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Thanks a lot, that forum has a lot to offer
and best of all, i think my question has
already been ask and answered.
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Good, glad it helped.
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Yes I have used appliance module(S) for
powered screens and drapes.
Is your wall switch momentary (spring
loaded) or can you leave the switch in
the "UP" or "DOWN" position?
I used two appliance modules; one powered a
120V SPDT relay which took the place of the
wall switch and a second appliance module to
actually apply power the the circuit through
a second SPDT relay.
The X10 controller, through macros, would
decide whether the direction control relay
needed to be acitvated or not. (ie the
macros acted as a "flip-flop" and A1 ON
would always activate the motor in the
proper direction
You could also use one appliance module to
power the UP motor winding and a second
appliance module to power the DOWN motor
winding. This is a little risky considering
X10's propensity to "false". You could run
into situation of applying power to both
motor windings at same time. (If you can
leave the wall switch in the UP or DOWN
position, either appliance module
configuratin will work as you are protected
by the screens limit switches). You may want
to involve an electrician if this is greek;-)
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From what I have found, the plastic covers
come off very easy, it doesn't take any
prying. The covers are somewhat difficult
to grab, but the middle of the button is
raised up enough to grab onto and voila,
off it comes.
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Lance.....
I can say that I am having major problems
with motion detectors that are 20 feet
away. I have ordered V572AB with the TW532
power line interface and the 1132CUP (which
replaces the non-rf part of the CM15A).
Will be here tomorrow and I'll start
playing tomorrow night. First thing I'm
going to try is my outdoor motion
detectors.
I'll post results.
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Thanks Craig.
Once I read your description, I figured it
out. As you said,it was easy. <shrug, sigh>
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Dick:
I e-mailed Duke Power and asked that very
question. I know that they are doing a
trial of BOPL in the Charlotte area; as far
as I know, they're not doing it here right
now. We do have power meters with
transmitting capability for remote reading,
but that has been in place for the last
several years. I'm running Smarthome
Manager and it's indicating a signal
strength of 80, which is very strong.
There's a repeat string of E2 EOff coming
in. I installed a signal blocker this
evening at the panel (I did orient it
correctly; it's not in backwards) but to no
avail. The signal's as strong as ever and
my X10 network is still hijacked.
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Chris; I use 4 MS16's on the same House and
Unit code to detect Raccoons Possums and
stray Cats etc. works fine. the chance of
them triggering at the same time is nill...
At night I can walk around the zone and I
never see the LED's trigger at the same
time. I have a Stake, 1x3 board about 3ft
long with a point on one end, to drive into
the ground. On the stake are 2 motion
detectors and my Cam. I also mounted 2
detectors on the wall and fence. all are
about 2 ft. off the ground. Also, on the
stake is a flood lamp controlled by AHP.
Even birds will trigger the Macro and turn
on the lamp and VCR. I have nice shots of
Raccoons, Possums, Rabbets, Skunks, Birds,
Stray Cats etc.
I can move the stake "Critter Cam" around
the yard for best results. I get about 6 -
10 hits each night.
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This may be an ominous sign. If there are
conflicts between X10 and BBOPL that the
signal blocker can not fix, this may be a
serious blow to PLC devices. By now I would
think X10 would have a heads up on any
conflicts between BBOPL and X10 signals. How
about it X10? (No I really do not expect an
answer, although the furious deluge of X10
email "sales" might be construed as one).
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Just did some research and found BOPL runs
between 1.7 and 80 MHz. That should not
bother X10 (he sez confidently). So
the "furious deluge of X10 sale email" is
merely a coincidence. Dave and Dick, keep
us posted.
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Well, I went out with one of my receivers
and an extension cord this evening to
neighbor's houses just to see if they were
receiving the signal. None of my neighbors
are running an X10 system; however, those
on either side of me and a couple of houses
away are getting the signal. Houses across
the street (on a different transformer) are
not. I shut my entire house down and
monitored at the meter and still received
the signal, so I know it's not one of my
transmitters that has gone bad. Now I need
to have each neighbor shut their house down
one at a time to see if any of them are
generating the offending signal. If not,
my assumption would then be that there's a
problem inside Duke Power's transformer.
Anyone ever heard of a utility company's
transformer generating RF noise like this?
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If all on one transformer, good chance that
some apparatus in a home is generating the
rf. so many thing today emit rf. Go to e-
Ham.com and search for rf interference to
get some thing bothering radio receivers.
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With the additional research on PIR devices, and
the comments left here, I have been able to
resolve the issues
that I was having with my 2 M16A’s not
picking up the motion from
Rats that are in the area.
Originally, the 2 sensors were attached to
the ceiling (pointing downward) of an outdoor
awning which sits about 6 ½ feet from the deck.
During cooler weather, this setup worked
fairly well, but as the temperature got
Warmer, the detection of these little
critters degraded or non existent.
I ended up making 2 stands about 2 feet in
height, and added the ability to control the
angle of the sensors (either up or down) and
used the help of squirrels during the
day to position both sensors to a point where
any activity from 2 primary areas that
I was concerned about, would be detected
every time.
So my problems have been resolved, thanks all
for your help and input.
Regards
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V572A is a dream. Some limitations using with
CM15A. But, they are very minor. Here's story.
V572RF range is wonderful!! It feeds the
received code from an RF remote to a TW523A
which puts the code on the power line. CM15A
receives the code and process it.
To avoid interference between V572A and CM15A
receiving same RF signal, I set V572A to
transceive only house code J. I set CM15A to
NOT transceive housecode J. I put all of my
RF remotes that need power of V572A (sticky
switch, key chain, motion detectors, etc) on
housecode J. V572A/TW523 are in an upstairs
bedroom. It picks up motion detectos out on
my driveway and front sidewalk. Picks up the
ticky wall switch anywhere in the house.
Until my 1132CUP shows up, this is a good
intermim solution.
Hope this helps someone.
John
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Take a look here.
http://www.x10ideas.com/articles/displayx10article.asp?articleid=22&title=Using%20X-10%20with%20a%20Gas%20Fireplace
or
http://www.techliving.com/article/281.html