X10 Community Forum
🖥️ActiveHome Pro => ActiveHome Pro General => Topic started by: nospamallowed on April 20, 2011, 12:45:01 AM
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I am running the latest software 3.311 after update from 2. something using the CM15A and module SR227. The unit for the last week or so has been turning on the lights but has not been turning them off.(the remote works fine either way) I just got back from vacation and the lights have not been working at all. (remote or AHP interface) so I cleared the memory interface using the older software and then the lights started turning on again. Now again they will not turn off. I do have the cap in the panel also. I have now updated to the 3.311 and still having this not turning off issue. Can anyone shed some light on the issue.
Thanks
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So the lights are on the SR227 Outlet Module and it is not turning on and off correctly.
What type of lights in the SR227?
Anything change in the house? Like a new appliance, computer, cell phone, etc.?
If the lights are on lamp modules or wall switches that are old enough to not have the soft start feature. Then they have to be redefined in 3.311 using the old not soft start list in AHP.
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They turn on fine with AHP but not off. the other SR227's in the same circuit work great. The CR12A remotes do work on and off. So after googling the issue I found software updates and tried all 4 updates and I still have the same issue. I am running LED flood lights in the eaves of the front of the house and a line to the palm tree in the front yard for lighting and this setup has been working great for a couple of years or so. I also use this circuit for the holiday lighting during the year without any issues. Has anything changed? No same cpu's same lighting nothing has changed. Also no switches or anything else for this circuit it is run from the panel specifically for this purpose.
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Just to add to this info...I had an issue which I just solved a few mins ago. I had to reset all of my light controls to the "old" non soft start version. Things were working fine, however I noticed my coffeepot was not turning on in the morning. It would shut off properly at the set time but never turn on. I tried different codes and even a new appliance (two pin) module. Nothing worked. -:) I just went into AHP and changed the settings there to show it as a lamp module, (also set to older non soft start version) and now its turning on from the computer. Will have to see if it works tomorrow morning but I see no reason why not. Not sure if this adds anything but thought I would share it.
Sometimes I wish they would just leave well enough alone lol....
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Just to add to this info...I had an issue which I just solved a few mins ago. I had to reset all of my light controls to the "old" non soft start version. Things were working fine, however I noticed my coffeepot was not turning on in the morning. It would shut off properly at the set time but never turn on. I tried different codes and even a new appliance (two pin) module. Nothing worked. -:) I just went into AHP and changed the settings there to show it as a lamp module, (also set to older non soft start version) and now its turning on from the computer. Will have to see if it works tomorrow morning but I see no reason why not. Not sure if this adds anything but thought I would share it.
Sometimes I wish they would just leave well enough alone lol....
Defining an Appliance module as a Lamp Module in the software is NOT recommended.
Appliance modules don't respond to Bright/dim commands, so you will likely run into further problems down the road by doing this.
I suggest you delete the module from AHP, clear the trash, and then re-create it correctly as an appliance module.
check the Activity Monitor to make sure the correct code is being sent to that unit.
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Appliance Modules also do not respond to an All Lights On command.
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I had already cleared the log, it showed that it never sent out the signal to "turn on" at the time appointed. I tried just cleaning everything up which included deleting the module completely. Then I set up a new one, again with the appliance module. Had the same results, tried different settings like setting it to B code and a different number, I think I tried everything but to no avail. Same results. Then I thought about the "soft" thing so just to see if it made any difference I set it up on a lamp module old style and it worked.
Any idea why an appliance won't but the lamp one will?
This was basically a new setup since I lost my previous hard drive and had to start from scratch when I installed a new HD. I only use it for two lamps and the coffeepot but seems the lamps worked fine just not the pot...and thanks for the suggestions...I learn a lot from here!
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That sounds to me you have either a noise problem or a phase problem. Try moving the appliance module to an outlet close to the PC and see if it works. If it does, you need to see if you have either problem.
As to a possible phase problem, if you have an electric stove, try turning the stove on and see if the appliance module works.
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Any idea why an appliance won't but the lamp one will?
Are you testing them in the same outlet?
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I had already cleared the log, it showed that it never sent out the signal to "turn on" at the time appointed. ...
That sounds to me you have either a noise problem or a phase problem.
If the Activity monitor didn't show an appropriate "ON" transmission, I doubt a phase issue is at hand.
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Problem Solved.
I forgot my son switched out a computer in the office are of the house and it has an external switching power supply. When i realized what was done I unplugged the pwr supply to the computer and all is well. I just ordered some XPPF's to put on this computer and anything else for the future.
Thanks for all the read me's and other info on this site.
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EVERY computer in a X10 controlled house needs a filter. Both PCs and laptop power supplies produce noise that blocks X10 signals.
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I have 5 computers and 3 laptops running almost all the time and this is the first issue that I have ever had. The computer that was replaced was with a Dell mini with an external power supply and this is the culprit. I have been running X-10 for about 11 yrs. Including alarm system and 7 cameras and 6 eagle eyes with audio and video recorder. I also have 2 wireless routers. WII and Xbox running wireless and have had NO issues. This is why I had the confusion of why things started to fail. As I stated before I have ordered 5 XPPF units. 1 for the Dell and extras for anything in the future.
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EVERY computer in a X10 controlled house needs a filter. Both PCs and laptop power supplies produce noise that blocks X10 signals.
It certainly can't hurt, but I wouldn't say it is an absolute requirement. There are plenty of people who have gotten away without filters on their PCs.
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At least in my house, both the desktop PC and the laptop have filters on them. My wife's first laptop didn't produce noise, but the second one did, so another filter was bought, the third laptop has the filter.
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At least in my house, both the desktop PC and the laptop have filters on them. My wife's first laptop didn't produce noise, but the second one did, so another filter was bought, the third laptop has the filter.
Like I said, it can't hurt, but filters might not be needed for EVERY PC. Trial-and-error is really the only way to find out.
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but filters might not be needed for EVERY PC. Trial-and-error is really the only way to find out.
Very true. I have two desktops and two laptops all running at same time, in same room, which is the X10 gateway. None have filters. Requirement is case by case.
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Interesting Noise Stuff
A few related Questions ........................
I have APC Power Battery Backup appliances on all of my electronics. Should I install XPPFs before the APC's.
All of my computer and audio equipment are behind the APC's - including my CM15A. Will the XPPFs work in this scenario?
Should I move my CM15A to an outlet that is not being used by my pc's?
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Interesting Noise Stuff
A few related Questions ........................
I have APC Power Battery Backup appliances on all of my electronics. Should I install XPPFs before the APC's.
It can't hurt, but it might not be needed on all of them, depending on the issues you are currently having.
All of my computer and audio equipment are behind the APC's - including my CM15A. Will the XPPFs work in this scenario?
The XPPF's will filter out any X10 signals, so your signals won't make it out. Depending on the type of UPS, they may not make it out, anyway.
Should I move my CM15A to an outlet that is not being used by my pc's?
Definitely. You don't want to block the transmission of PLC signals to and from the CM15A. Even if the signals can make it out past the UPS, they won't make it past the XPPF. Putting the CM15A on an un-filtered outlet, as close to your breaker panel as possible, will give you the best chance for the strongest signal propagation.
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All of my computer and audio equipment are behind the APC's - including my CM15A. Will the XPPFs work in this scenario?
Should I move my CM15A to an outlet that is not being used by my pc's?
Most UPS create nasty noise when in back-up operation and usually have heavy duty filtering to remove this noise. Unfortunately these filters usually effect the X10 powerline signal, so UPS's tend to be "Signal Suckers".
That said, since X10 powerline signals REQUIRE the power to be present for any signal transmission, there is no reason to put the CM15A behind a UPS.
If utility power isn't present the CM15A does nothing.
As far as plugging into same outlet as computer...results are mixed depending on how clean the computer power supply is and wheter it's built in filtering will "suck out" the X10 command or any generated noise will corrupt the X10 command. My CM15A and my Homeseer interface is plugged into same outlet as three computers, with no ill effects. However we have seen examples where CM15A and computer in same outlet greatly attenuates the CM15A powerline signal. So test it at a different outlet or breaker circuit .
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My APC BX1000 UPS will absorb most of my X10 signals if not filtered on its AC Input.
Also my tests show no X10 power line signal will pass from the output side of the UPS back to the power line input.
I would try an unfiltered outlet.
Watch XPPFs. They are rated at five amps but some of us have found pushing them close to five amps. They smell and feel too warm for comfort.
Smarthome makes a nice ten amp one, 1626-10 and it even has a unfiltered AC outlet on the front. I have my controller in the unfiltered outlet and the UPS in the filtered outlet. Act also makes a nice fifteen amp one for heavy loads. AF120.
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Brian - Dave - Noam (in no particular order) #:)
Thanks for the interesting evaluations. I guess that I'll be moving m CM15A to another outllet. Do you know if I use a longer USB cable will I lose any signal strength???.
I did see the 15amp filters that you mentioned. They would be perfect for my HT and Computer setup. My HT peaks at 14.5Amps when the TV is on. When there is a good action scene you can see the lights dim in my neighborhood and hear glasses rattling for miles!!! ;D
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... Do you know if I use a longer USB cable will I lose any signal strength???.
I can't tell you what will happen in your setup, but I can tell you my experiences.
I am currently using approximately 16 feet of USB cable (6ft cable + 10 ft extension), and I haven't had any issues.
However, a few months back I had tried using several different "extenders", the type that are split with a CAT5 cable between them. I don't know if it was my house, or bad karma, but those things caused all sorts of problems. They were VERY prone to picking up stray electrical noise, and would reset themselves at the drop of a hat. Repeated resetting of the USB connection caused the CM15A to "go crazy," and lock up (resetting the flags to a "known error" state - with some of them on, and some of them off).
I REALLY don't recommend using a USB-over-CAT5 extender if you plan on keeping the CM15A connected all the time.
As I recall, the "official" maximum length for USB connections is about 16 feet. You can use powered hubs to extend that, but don't overdo it.
A better bet is to use a regular extension cord to bring the "outlet" closer to the CM15A, and keep the CM15A physically closer to the PC.
In my case, I took a 75-foot extension cord, and ran it between the outlet on my XTB-IIR (which is at one end of the house, next to the breaker box), and my computer area (all the way at the other end of the house). I haven't had any issues with this setup.