X10 Community Forum
🖥️ActiveHome Pro => ActiveHome Pro General => Help & Troubleshooting => Topic started by: gg4000 on June 24, 2012, 12:51:18 PM
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I just installed a XPFM on my ceiling fan.
The first on command worked. Now I can't turn it off. It clicks twice as if "off on". B:(
An ideas?
It's gettin COLD! :-[
Thanks
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The fan motor is probably putting out noise which interferes with the X10 Off signal.
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The noise from the motor going off. Could also be confusing the relay status {On or Off} sensor.
We have seen other reporting the same problem.
Some have wired a noise filter on the output side of the XPFM and others have carefully added a 33K 1 or more watt resistor on the output side to neutral that is common to the XPFM and the load.
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I just installed a XPFM on my ceiling fan.
The first on command worked. Now I can't turn it off. It clicks twice as if "off on". B:(
An ideas?
It's gettin COLD! :-[
Thanks
Common problem if fan is on medium or low speed. Less common for fan to do it on high speed. 33K ohm 3 watt resistor across the fan motor leads will fix.
http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=25284.msg142012#msg142012
http://forums.x10.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=gu4m31vveomsla9jcmq4l9k746&topic=13045.30
I found five 3W 33K resistors for five bucks including shipping on Ebay.
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YUP!
I set the fan to high, and it does turn off.
Looks like Radio shack only goes up to 1/2 watt.
I'll look around for the 33k 3w.
Thanks for the info!
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YUP!
I set the fan to high, and it does turn off.
Looks like Radio shack only goes up to 1/2 watt.
I'll look around for the 33k 3w.
Thanks for the info!
Your 33K at 120V is dissipating almost 1/2 watt, so technically a half watt resister would work. But I get real nervous when putting resistors across 120V in a tight junction box. Even though a 3W resistor would still dissipate 1/2 watt, the bigger body runs cooler. If Radio Shark has flameproof film resisters maybe a 1/2 W would be OK.
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YUP!
I set the fan to high, and it does turn off.
Sounds like the fan has a pull-chain, or some other speed setting on it. From my limited knowledge, those work like incandescent dimmers, and can throw out a lot of noise when "dimmed" (or run at a slower speed).
That could explain (to me at least) why you could turn it off when it was on high.
However, couldn't you have then used the pull-chain (or whatever) to turn it off, until you found a solution? ;-)
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You mean like get up and pull the pull chain? So old fashioned. ::)
I'm a spoiled X10 user.... ;D
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You need a Home Automation Robot and it can pull the chain for you. ;D
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You need a Home Automation Robot and it can pull the chain for you. ;D
I made something like that to open and close the cover on our garage exhaust fan, which is also controlled by a pull chain.
Jeff
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I made something like that to open and close the cover on our garage exhaust fan, which is also controlled by a pull chain.
Did you name it? (Robbie? Gort? Tobar?....oh man, am I dating myself)
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I was thinking about that today. A X10 Robot. -:)
It will take a lot of LM465s and a few servos erector sets, Legos, etc.
I will walk, It will talk. But will it core a apple?
The drawback will be when it walks away from the outlet it will pull the plug.
Now I'm on a different mission.
Did not want to start a new thread though.
I have 2 CM11As and one RR501, CM19A.
751s 465s.... and so on. More on it's way. Went crazy on ebay. USPS must be going nuts. ;D
My MS10As RF will not reach the CM19A. They are too far. I've been reading so many different posts and now I'm back 10 steps.
Did I read that the RR501 will take the MS10A RF and convert it to PLC? Then send the command on the power line?
If my only option is to keep a laptop with another CM19A running in my shed, I will do.
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I was thinking about that today. A X10 Robot. -:)
It will take a lot of LM465s and a few servos erector sets, Legos, etc.
I will walk, It will talk. But will it core a apple?
The drawback will be when it walks away from the outlet it will pull the plug.
If my only option is to keep a laptop with another CM19A running in my shed, I will do.
I should have been wearing a Depends when reading the first paragraph.
Anywho, lets hope that the new CM15A, due to ship before "the holidays", will have all the design flaws of the original CM15A corrected. i.e the pathetic antenna system design for both receive and transmit. even simply puttting the RR501 antenna on the CM15A would make an improvement over what it has now. But the RR501 antenna probably costs 20 cents more than the "dribble wire" antenna on the CM15A, soooo I won't be holding my breath.
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I agree. An Interface like the CM15A with the same antenna as the RR501 would be a great improvement. I hope X10 Repair Depot reads this.
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You need a Home Automation Robot and it can pull the chain for you. ;D
I made something like that to open and close the cover on our garage exhaust fan, which is also controlled by a pull chain.
Jeff
The XTB-PullChain?
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The XTB-PullChain?
(http://jvde.us/info/XTB_pullchain.jpg)
It is controlled by a X10 switched outlet powering a 12V DC supply. It has a geared down DC motor that runs in both directions with limit switches. When power is switched on, it opens the vent and turns on the fan. When power switches off, the motor (powered by a couple of big super capacitors) pulls down on the chain, switching off the fan and closing the vent.
The exhaust fan switches on during the cooler early morning hours to cool our garage down to near ambient, and switches off when the outside temperature begins to warm up again. That keeps the garage about 10 degrees cooler during the very hot summer months.
Jeff
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XTB-PullChain. Neat and a unique use for X10 control. :)%
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XTB-PullChain. Neat and a unique use for X10 control. :)%
Yeah, not to mention DC motors, limit switches, and super caps. That's the first step to "Battle-Bots" isn't it? ;D
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That's the first step to "Battle-Bots" isn't it? ;D
Back at the lab we built 'em for DARPA.
Jeff
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Great idea!
Why not just wire directly into the switch, and control it with a regular module?
--Noam
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That's the first step to "Battle-Bots" isn't it? ;D
Back at the lab we built 'em for DARPA.
Jeff
Ain't the DoD a great place to work for? BGCAPP here.
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That's COOL! >!
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Why not just wire directly into the switch, and control it with a regular module?
It has a spring-loaded cover that is pulled closed by the chain. When the chain is released the cover snaps open and the fan switches on. I could have added an in-line switch module, but I didn't want the cover flapping around in the wind when the fan is not running.
Jeff
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I have 2 CM11As and one RR501, CM19A.
751s 465s.... and so on. More on it's way. Went crazy on ebay. USPS must be going nuts. ;D
My MS10As RF will not reach the CM19A. They are too far. I've been reading so many different posts and now I'm back 10 steps.
Did I read that the RR501 will take the MS10A RF and convert it to PLC? Then send the command on the power line?
Just let me intaject here for a minute...
Am I headin for a dead end? >*< A motion sensor will not talk to a 751, or a RR501, or a CM11A? It will just go to a computer with a CM19, 15 etc?
My only option will be to have a laptop running 24/7 in my shed? (Close to the MS)
Can't be.... ???
But if so, the laptop is ready to live in the shed.
Let me know...
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Just let me intaject here for a minute...
Am I headin for a dead end? >*< A motion sensor will not talk to a 751, or a RR501, or a CM11A? It will just go to a computer with a CM19, 15 etc?
My only option will be to have a laptop running 24/7 in my shed? (Close to the MS)
Can't be.... ???
But if so, the laptop is ready to live in the shed.
Let me know...
Boomer, where are you getting these ideas? The xxxxEye motin sensors talk directly to the TM751 or RR501 transceiver which couples the motion sensors HCUC "ON" to the powerline.
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For some reason it won't work. The MS will trigger a device when it's in the house near the CM19A. If I take it outside with a RR501 with the program downloaded, and plugged in next to the MS, the device will not turn on.
Also see the "Must be run from the PC" in the macro.
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For some reason it won't work. The MS will trigger a device when it's in the house near the CM19A. If I take it outside with a RR501 with the program downloaded, and plugged in next to the MS, the device will not turn on.
Ah, I understand now. Sorry had a brain f*rt about the CM19.
It does not monitor the powerline, so if it does not receive the RF signal from the MS, AHP can't execute the macro even though the RR501 is picking up the RF signal and likely putting it on the powerlines. Until X10 begins making the CM15A which moitors RF and powerlines, there isn't a good X10 solution. There are forum hacks to increase the transmit range of the xxxEye motions sensors which may help you. The quick description is an 18 inch length of wire hot glued to the left side of the MS. Search for "motion sensor range" or "MS16A (MS14a, MS13 etc.) range" for greater detail..
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You are playing with an assorted mix of X10 devices. I am going by memory from your original message thread.
If the CM15A does not receive the motion sensors RF directly it is a RF range problem.
If the CM15A does not receive the power line signals from the TM751 or RR501 it is a power line signal problem.
dave w already covered the no power line receiver in a CM19A.
The must run from PC is probably a Smart Macro that the CM15A can't process offline and has to be done by a PC.
The CM19A has no memory for holding downloaded macros and timers.
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OK, but if I have my RR501 in here with me to use as I normally do with my computer, and a CM11 or CM751 plugged in outside in the shed, If I set the MS to A7 shouldn't the outside CM11 or 15 send a PLC to turn on my A7?
Wow did it hurt to say that! ;D
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R501 does not connect to the computer or are you using the RR501 in the computer room to receive the RF signals? It can receive RF commands on the house code its dial is set to and send the commands on the power lines.
A CM15A, CM11A and CM19A do directly connect to the computer.
The CM11A has no RF receiver in it so it can't receive any motion sensor commands.
The CM15A should send a power line command from the motion sensor. If you have enabled the CM15A to tranceive house code A. In the Hardware page of the Tools Tab. Sometimes the default of Auto doesn't work correctly. I use specific and just picked the ones I wanted.
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OK, but if I have my RR501 in here with me to use as I normally do with my computer, and a CM11 or CM751 plugged in outside in the shed, If I set the MS to A7 shouldn't the outside CM11 or 15 send a PLC to turn on my A7?
Wow did it hurt to say that! ;D
Hurts to read it also. What is a CM751?
What do you mean: "If I set the MS to A7 shouldn't the outside CM11 or 15 send a PLC to turn on my A7?"
Do you mean trigger a "A7 macro" in the CM11 or CM15?? Yes IF the PLC signal from the RR501 is actually getting to the shed (CM11/CM15 location). Brian H makes it clear.
BTW RR501 and TM751, DO NOT pick up signal and transceive to PLC the RF signals from the MS10 security system sensors. If that is what you are using as motion sensors, that is the problem. The RR501, TM751 only work with the xxxxEye motion sensors (MS12, MS13, MS14, MS15, MS16).
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The CM11A has no RF receiver in it so it can't receive any motion sensor commands.
That was the problem!!! #:)
Thank you! #:)
I forget what attracted me to the CM11A.
I have an old HD501 in the shed and it will turn on the lights with the MS.
I'm still faced with one problem. I want the lights on for about 5 minutes, (or just enough time for me to aim, ar ar) then turn off until the next burglar walks by.
Any ideas?
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oh... a TM751 ::)
It's working. The only thing I can think of to shut them down was to program a lot of timers. Every 15 minutes a PLC off command goes out from the computer.
YUK...
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I have the fix to repeat the MS10A that's too far from the CM19A.
MS is A7
MS get's sent to a TM751. TM sends the PLC A7 on.
Will use a A7 AM486 in the house near the CM19A.
A RELAY!!! rofl will plug into the AM.
The contacts will be wired to a DS12A. -:)
DS12A will set the macro to control the lights the way I want....
20 minutes until Radio Shack is open.. :'
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MS10A?. Is a Security Motion Sensor and the TM751 or RR501 will not process it at all.
Your CM19A or CM15A may process it if you have one of the Plug Ins that adds Security Sensor Support.
I know On Alert does. There maybe others.
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It must be a MS12A out there.
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Could be. The original Hawkeye was a MS12A. That one is not weather resistant.
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/MS12A_HawkEye_Motion_Sensor_Setup
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I just installed a XPFM on my ceiling fan.
The first on command worked. Now I can't turn it off. It clicks twice as if "off on". B:(
An ideas?
It's gettin COLD! :-[
Thanks
Common problem if fan is on medium or low speed. Less common for fan to do it on high speed. 33K ohm 3 watt resistor across the fan motor leads will fix.
http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=25284.msg142012#msg142012
http://forums.x10.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=gu4m31vveomsla9jcmq4l9k746&topic=13045.30
Welps, My 33k 3 watt resistors arrived. E-bay ordered 33k 3 watt, Package reads 33k, Not even one orange stripe on the resistor. B:(
Think it was Green blue gold gold. Measured with my Fluke, 5.7 ohms. :o 3 3 k where are you?
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Ouch. Green Blue Gold Gold is 5.6 ohms. Probably smoke or make a big BANG if you tied it across the load when turned On.
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to buy parts, you can try www.digi-key.com they have a lot of parts in stock, it`s unbelievable, youi certainly find the 33K resistor you need
It`s a bit more expensive but they ship overnight and you are sure to have the right part , if you want the shipping free, you have an minimum order. 8)
Hope it will help