X10 Community Forum
💬General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: VinRin57 on December 30, 2018, 02:31:30 PM
-
Greetings, and happy new year to all...
I can imagine this has been beaten to death - although I've searched for answers and am more confused than ever...
Has anyone done this mod that can offer feed back? A diode and 2 resisters are cut... And so, in doing the mod and testing, it does respond properly to on and off command with an led bulb, in past it would go on but not off. However there is still flickering with a 5v led bulb - any way to stop it?
Also, the mod does not appear to be exactly 'UL' tested and approved, as is many hacks! Thoughts about components left hanging?!
Thanks, as always!
The link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaN9RamIrp4&feature=youtu.be
-
However there is still flickering with a 5v led bulb - any way to stop it?
Also, the mod does not appear to be exactly 'UL' tested and approved, as is many hacks! Thoughts about components left hanging?!
Happy back at ya!
A "5v LED bulb" ?
What is that? What is the real or equivalent wattage of the bulb?
I have not tried this hack as an extra resistor (R6 I think) is being cut. But I think the Lamp Module has the same "what is the output doing" sensing as the Appliance Module, and this is different from the "Local Sense" feature discussed in the video. If your LED bulb in question is very low "wattage" i.e. a nightlight or similar. Then I doubt the flicker can be stopped with out using a shunting resistor across the light. If you are concerned abut the "flying leads" of the disabled components in the module, then you likely won't be trying to solder a resistor across the LED socket. (definitely not UL approved).
You might try one of the newer "filament" style LED bulbs. These seem to have a much simpler resistive power supply which may only glow, but not flicker.
As far as the flying leads: The leads are fairly stiff, but even so, pose a slight risk of touching other components. The R3 lead is close to the triac heat sink, the R6 and D10 are both close to the edge of the board so could be pushed against other components in a sloppy re-assembly of the case.
When you modify an existing design of any device (especially a line operated device) you have to take a risk. Obviously the "hack" is to cause the device to operate in some manner not intended in the original design.
Personally, I would likely unsolder the components. But if you do not solder, an alternative would be to use bits of electrical tape to isolate the leads, or cut both ends of the component, which risks damaging the adjacent components.
-
Thanks for the answer and yikes, my bad! I meant 5 watt bulb.. guess I mix up my w's and v's! Dracula?!!
-
Dracula?!!
Na. Just a typo, but I was not sure. 5 watt is pretty low. It does not take much to light it up.
-
The modifications in the video. Are for the earlier Appliance and Lamp Modules.
The newer Soft Start Lamp Modules and CFL friendly Appliance Modules. Are a completely different design and the modification in the video will not work. As the components that where cut are not there.
If you don't like the hanging components and are good at soldering. I have removed the parts completely.
You probably also noticed. Don't turn the front cover over. Many times the House Code and Unit Code dials with trim rings frequently fall out.
-
Nearly 20 years ago..... when CFL were new such things as low wattage lamps were a new problem. The same thing when LED bulbs became the new normal. It's a waste of time... beating a dead horse. The same can be said about try to make the old tech work with the new tech.
You can buy new WiFi addressed modules (for less than $10 each) that work with ALL lights/lamps and from anywhere in the world, as well as timers and such.
If done right.... new products can be integrated with an X10 setup... which is great as X10 conservers bandwidth.