X10 Community Forum
🔌General Home Automation => Automating Your House => Troubleshooting Automation Problems => Topic started by: ceedee on June 06, 2019, 11:49:29 AM
-
It took me several months of testing, swapping, and pondering, but I'm now convinced that my dishwasher turns on my rear spotlight, which has been controlled by a WS467. It happens somewhere from 0-20 minutes into the cycle...trying to narrow that down (doesn't really matter, though). Never had an issue with prior dishwashers. No other modules appear to be affected.
- i've swapped bulbs
- i've swapped wall switches several times (now trying an old-style paddle switch)
- dishwasher is on its own circuit
- i've tried several house and unit codes
- i've put other modules on the same codes, and they're not affected - this bugs me!
I know that's it's probably noise, and that the only solution is to add a filter to the dishwasher circuit. That's a bit problematic, and it doesn't bother me enough to spend the time and $$ to try to fix the issue.
Two questions, if I may:
- could the "innards" of the older-style paddle switch be different enough, and the problem may go away?
- am I missing something obvious?
Thanks,
Chris
-
If the older one was made before Soft Start and Preset Dim {Sometime in 2007} was added. They would have different electronics compared to the presently sold ones.
I can't say if the presently sold ones are susceptible to a certain noise on the power lines.
The wall switch and dishwasher. Are they on the same branch circuit?
-
The dishwasher only turns on that one light and you have others in your HA setup, correct? Is it possible the dishwasher and that light are on the same circuit and it's just that proximity is causing the problem here and not other modules? A filter is likely the only solution other than changing that module to a different type (including another technology potentially). If you use AHP as your HA software then a different tech would be an unpopular choice I'm sure.
-
Do you have an X10 filter you're using elsewhere that you could test with?
The dishwasher, if not hardwired, is usually plugged in under the sink.
Does time of day make any difference?
-
All,
Thanks for your input and comments.
Light and dishwasher on different circuits, same phase.
I do have a filter, but the DW is hard-wired.
As for TOD, we usually set the cycle delay for a few hours, then head to bed. Today, we ran it in the morning so we could watch the light. So, time of day does not seem to matter.
-
Just to be doubly sure that it's the dw, can you flip its breaker for 24 hours and observe?
-
Just to be doubly sure that it's the dw, can you flip its breaker for 24 hours and observe?
As part of my investigation, I kept track of the light on days where the DW was not activated. Light never turned on by itself.. I can certainly flip the breaker, but I've never seen the light on when the DW is off.
Start the DW, and light is on in the first 20 minutes of the cycle.
-
What brand is the dw? Bosch by any chance?
You've done a lot of testing and short of installing a filter perhaps using a WS469 switch might solve your issue. The WS469 has an internal relay instead of a triac for dimming. There's always some current running through the WS467 and I'm thinking that some waveform generated by the dw is triggering the triac to turn on.
An XPF filter could be wired under the dw or at the circuit breaker or use an XPNR if space is a problem.
Another thing to try that won't involve $ is to just move the dw breaker to the other 'phase' in the panel and see if that helps. Only do that if you're comfortable working in the panel! Safety First!
Of course, if you have a signal analyzer, you could sit and watch it. B:(
-
It's an LG. Prior was a Bosch, with no issues.
I like the WS469 idea. I just wish I could be 100% certain that it will address the issue before I purchase it! Alas...
-
WS469 is an On/Off only relay type module. It also needs a Neutral power connection in the switch box.
-
WS469 is an On/Off only relay type module. It also needs a Neutral power connection in the switch box.
I'm not recommending this, BUT, one could use the ground as a neutral since they're bonded at the panel anyway. NOT code compliant.
-
I have a neutral available.
-
I have a neutral available.
Perfect, If you try it let us know how it works out. The next step would be to mail your dishwasher to Jeff Volp for testing. rofl
-
Jeff once recommended putting a filter on the circuit board of my furnace which would only require a 20A module. If I had to filter the whole furnace, that would be impossible since it's electric and has a heat pump. I got everything else in the house sorted and the furnace controller was not as big an issue so I ignored it.
-
Update:
Found a BSR X10.014701 switch in my X10 boneyard, and installed it. Ran dishwasher. Floodlight stayed off. Go figure.
Will run more cycle before declaring victory.
-
Update:
Found a BSR X10.014701 switch in my X10 boneyard, and installed it. Ran dishwasher. Floodlight stayed off. Go figure.
Will run more cycle before declaring victory.
Just proves 'They don't make 'em like they used to!" :)% rofl
-
Update:
Found a BSR X10.014701 switch in my X10 boneyard, and installed it. Ran dishwasher. Floodlight stayed off. Go figure.
Will run more cycle before declaring victory.
Just proves 'They don't make 'em like they used to!" :)% rofl
And, never throw things out. You never know... ;)
-
Update:
Found a BSR X10.014701 switch in my X10 boneyard, and installed it. Ran dishwasher. Floodlight stayed off. Go figure.
Will run more cycle before declaring victory.
I am not too surprised.
IMHO.
X10WTI use to see how designs could be made to work with less or cheaper parts. For the ones in the FCC Database. A * next to a component on the schematic. Was not installed. ::)
-
So if we go through and find the schematics for all of our modules and add back in the * items, we should have a robust X10 system?! :'
-
Can't say if it would then be a robust system.
I do know adding 4 bypass capacitors to the through hole component version CM15A helped lots of users. I don't know if they caught on and added them to the later ones with surface mounted controllers.
-
I never heard of that mod. Not sure it would apply to my version(s), but that would have been sone thing I would have tried day 1 based on performance out of the box.
-
It's shown here...
https://www.laser.com/dhouston/ImproveCM15A.html (https://www.laser.com/dhouston/ImproveCM15A.html)
I'll try to remember to check the later SMD CM15A to see whether they added the caps.
-
Did you add the last part at a later date than the rest of that page? I saw this page or a variant of it years ago when I was preparing for my external antenna mod. I found at the time that adding the antenna helped, but without an extra inline amplifier I was still not where I needed to be. I believe you sent me a different RF chip to swap in at one point prior to the antenna mod but it didn't help. I wonder if just adding these caps might have been all that would have been needed for a significant improvement.
In the end, I never ended up installing all the motion sensors I wanted because range was still terrible on those (even after adding 18" passive antennas to them). I tried my door/window sensors once and found them so bad, they've lived their entire lives in a box in the basement.
-
I think that page was complete when uploaded. You probably saw my eggbeater antenna page which was much older.
https://www.laser.com/dhouston/eggbeater.pdf (https://www.laser.com/dhouston/eggbeater.pdf)
I never made any before/after range measurements regarding the bypass caps so I'm not sure how much difference they will make. But my earlier measurements with the eggbeater plus amplifier predated adding caps to the CM15A and gave 300+ feet range with an HR12A. I never measured motion sensors or door/window sensors at those extreme distances but am sure they would likely work out to 150 feet with eggbeater + amplifier.
I don't recall seeing a schematic of the SMD version of the CM15A. Without one it's difficult to tell whether they used bypass caps.
-
For me, the external antenna (RadioShack in my case) plus inline amplifier were huge improvements. I went from kinda worked in the next room to 300+ foot range. I don't need to be able to use the HR12A from the woods, but I can!
-
I don't recall seeing a schematic of the SMD version of the CM15A. Without one it's difficult to tell whether they used bypass caps.
With an SMD version of the CM15A - date sticker 13F24...
Using an ohmmeter and datasheets for the ICs it appears there are small SMD capacitors on all but one Vcc pin. The microcontroller (CY7C63723C) has two Vcc pins - one has a cap, the other is connected to the first via a trace under the IC and has no cap but does have empty solder pads for one. Best practice would call for a cap on this pin as well.
Again, without a schematic I've no idea about the values of these small SMD caps but my WAG is they are 0.1uF bypass caps.
In addition I would add bypass caps in parallel with the power supply electrolytics.