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 1 
 on: Today at 02:29:23 PM 
Started by Ivan8ias - Last post by roger1818
Yes, essentially that is the configuration I have. On the CS277 one blue wire goes through one of the traveler wires to the blue wire from the WS469. The other wire of the CS277 is capped off and unconnected. The red wire from the CS277 goes through the other traveler wire to the red wire of the WS469.

That's your problem.  It should go to black wire of the WS469.  The blue wire on the WS469 should only be connected to the lamp.

 2 
 on: Today at 12:55:50 PM 
Started by Ivan8ias - Last post by Ivan8ias
Yes, essentially that is the configuration I have. On the CS277 one blue wire goes through one of the traveler wires to the blue wire from the WS469. The other wire of the CS277 is capped off and unconnected. The red wire from the CS277 goes through the other traveler wire to the red wire of the WS469.

 3 
 on: Today at 08:31:55 AM 
Started by Ivan8ias - Last post by roger1818
I wired the WS469 and CS277 EXACTLY as described in the diagram, but in my case the way the original mechanical 3-way switch was wired, hot was in the house and load was in the garage, the two traveler wires toggling the switch actions.

So your original configuration was something like this (with the house switch on the left and garage switch on the right?



In that configuration it would be normally be best to put the WS469 in the garage (closest to the load) and the CS277 in the house (although if in your case if you actually have 4 wires going between the house and garage switch boxes (to  provide power for the outlet), you can get away with doing it the other way).

Quote
Here's what I did, using alligator test leads: Blue from the WS469, using one of the two traveler wires, to the Load at the garage. Red from the WS469, using the remaining traveler wire, to the red wire of the CS277 at the garage and the other blue wire on the CS277 connected to local to the garage hot (on the same circuit fuse).

What do you mean by "the other blue wire on the CS277?"  What are you doing with the first one?

Quote
I can turn on and off the light from the house, but pressing the CS277 does nothing. Here's what's weird: If I momentarily touch the hot lead at the garage to the red wire, the light goes on and remains on until I momentarily touch the hot lead again to the red lead, and then the light goes off and remains off. Isn't that exactly what the CS277 is supposed to be doing? I tested the CS277 with my OHM meter for continuity and every thing checks out OK. What do you think is going on?????

That is very strange. 

 4 
 on: October 22, 2017, 10:36:29 PM 
Started by Ivan8ias - Last post by Ivan8ias
I originally had the WS4777 and companion CS277 wired fine with no problems for years, controlling a 100 watt light bulb, until I got the WS469, because of the higher current required for a 500 watt halogen spotlight to replace the original unique light bulb fixture (the bulb socket was irrepairably damaged) .

 5 
 on: October 22, 2017, 08:50:29 PM 
Started by Ivan8ias - Last post by roger1818
Electrically, aren't they the same?

My modified diagram is electrically the same as the printed diagram, though it is a bit more consistent with the way a traditional 3-way switch is wired (and the way the WS4777 was wired).

It is electrically different from the diagram online as online though.

 6 
 on: October 22, 2017, 07:27:38 PM 
Started by rickschuff - Last post by BackAgain
Old thread but .....

My fan remote has a temperature sensor.  Set the target temp and when the room reaches it, the fans comes on.  Or goes off.  Dimmer and sleep timer for the light too.  Receiver/control unit mounts in the fan base, so no wall wiring.


 7 
 on: October 22, 2017, 06:16:14 PM 
Started by rickschuff - Last post by dave w
So now on to the next logical step, the echo watch...
Don't laugh. The new Motorola "Moto X" phone has "Alexa" built in. So a smart watch connected to a Moto X and you are there.  :)%

 8 
 on: October 22, 2017, 04:08:21 PM 
Started by Ivan8ias - Last post by Brian H
Thank you for the information on your setup.
It does sound kind of unique.

 9 
 on: October 22, 2017, 03:28:42 PM 
Started by rickschuff - Last post by bubbah
So now on to the next logical step, the echo watch...

 10 
 on: October 22, 2017, 12:53:43 PM 
Started by bkenobi - Last post by HA Dave
I have a stable setup now.  If things break for some reason, I have backups of most things.

Good man! I always feel bad when someone posts that their system/part/device/memory failed.... and they hadn't made preparations to put it back together. I am big believer in back-ups... and back-ups to the back-ups.

But I sometimes find myself wondering.... what if I was forced to re-make my setup... either by natural disaster or even just a move to another house.

My setup came to me in a haphazard fashion. First I wanted to dim the lights in my (at the time) new home theater. Then I added a camera to see my driveway. Then a security alarm, a HA PC with BVC (voice control),... then a spell of HA addiction.

The theater has been upgraded a couple times. The camera system has been greatly upgraded, I still use X10 extensively, and BVC (for voice announcements) on a laptop. But Amazon's echo has replaced the CM15A as the heart of my setup.

I think if I was going to re-build my entire setup...  I don't know. Maybe move all the "smarts" to the cloud. Monitor everything with apps on my phone. I wish X10 would hurry along their device so I can make this all happen.   

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