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 91 
 on: August 24, 2019, 06:07:48 AM 
Started by mikeythemars - Last post by Brian H
It maybe possible the instructions do not match the manual. We have seen things like the LM465 redesigned for Soft Start.
There was no model number change to help identify the update. They just started to ramp up and down at a few second rate. With a note on the sales page and wiki entry.

There may have been more than one firmware revision for the VT38A. To correct issues or improve operation. Almost all  the time we didn't get any information on firmware changes.

X10 cameras used the House Code and Unit code to turn them On and Off. They used a 4 Unit Code group for cameras. 1-4,5-8,9-12 and 13-16. Turn On one in the group the other three turned off. So you could control up to four cameras easier. When powered up they defaulted to On. So single camera setups did not have to be turned on at power up. Four cameras could use lets say. C1,C2,C3 and C4. Send an On to C1. C2,C3 and C4 would go off with no Off command needed. When powered On each would be On and interfering with each other until one of them was sent an On command.

The cameras are turned On and Off with power line commands. If you are using an X10 RF remote or camera remote. The command has to be sent on the power lines by a module that receives the RF command and sends it back to the power lines.

Some of the questions in the Wireless Camera section of the wiki. May also give you some added information.
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Wireless_Cameras

You mentioned Smarthome. Are you using one of their software programs? Like Smarthome Manager or Smarthome Manager Plus?

 92 
 on: August 23, 2019, 06:02:39 PM 
Started by mikeythemars - Last post by Brian H
Here is the X10 Wiki entry for the VT38A. http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/FloodCam
Its manual link is broken.
Near the bottom of the page is a number of questions. You may find some assistance with some of them.

The FCC manual is labeled 8/01.
I found a manual labeled 11/02.



 93 
 on: August 23, 2019, 05:51:47 PM 
Started by edjal - Last post by petera
If you don't have a need for PL control try a CM19 with HG. As its RF only It kills off the potential for signal collision between RF and PL which can happen with a CM15. It's cheap and cheerful so no need for any major investment here. Worth a try. I don't use Wizard scripts as I found that @bkenobi work has covered most if not all of my X10 requirements in X10. Whatever gaps I find I just reuse the code he's provided. Don't be afraid to experiment. It's the only way to learn HG.

 94 
 on: August 23, 2019, 03:59:19 PM 
Started by edjal - Last post by edjal
 Thanks petera I had cleared all programs from the CM15a previously as you had suggested
thanks again.   You guys are teaching and I'm learning slowly.  edjal

 95 
 on: August 23, 2019, 02:56:24 PM 
Started by edjal - Last post by edjal
 Thank You petera and tuiceman I have been experimenting with the repeated commands and it seems to be working correctly. Sometimes HG commands do not respond until the command is repeated. I have setup two schedules one for off and one for on to control a FamRmLamp X10 A6. I have seen HG send command to the light but sometimes the light does not turn on until the command is repeated one minute later from HG.  >!

 96 
 on: August 23, 2019, 02:13:48 PM 
Started by mikeythemars - Last post by mikeythemars
Hi Dave and thanks for responding to my post.

I did try setting the camera to manual, but the floodlights are still turning on whenever the VT38A unit detects motion, irrespective of whether it is light or dark out.

Can you send me a Iink to the VT38A manual you referenced?  I'm asking because the only one I could find online (which is at:

https://fccid.io/B4SVT38A/User-Manual/Exhibit-D-Users-Manual-per-2-1033-b3-171245)

is showing different switch designations than the ones on the vt38A unit I have, which is leading me to wonder whether X10 produced different versions of this unit.   

Specifically, the manual I found is showing the camera manual/auto setting switch you referred to as one instead labeled  "unit code" and is also showing the darks vs. light sensor settings reversed,with "dark" being the full right setting and "light" being the full left one.

Additionally, the printed instructions on the inside of the flip down door regarding camera mode in my VT38A unit appear to contradict what you interpreted from whatever manual you had access to.  Regarding camera mode, they state the following:

"Set CAMERA MODE switch to MANUAL for camera to stay on unless you turn it off from an x10 controller. Set switch to AUTO for camera to turn on with motion and to turn off some time after motion stops. Floodlights turn on with motion then time out and turn off regardless of switch position   

If those instructions are correct, they appear to state the floodlights on my VT38A unit are triggered independently of how the camera is configured.  Also, I can't find any reference in the VT38A manual I found on how to use an X10 controller to shut off just the camera in the unit but not the motion detector. If that is possible, it would presumably require having either having different addresses for the camera and motion detector or changing some sort of settings in SmartHome for the configuration of the VT38A unit, which I have not been able to find.

Thanks again for any additional suggestions you might have on getting this unit to turn it's motion triggered floodlights on only at night.   

       

 97 
 on: August 22, 2019, 06:20:50 PM 
Started by dla114 - Last post by Brian H
You mentioned fluorescent bulbs. Are you using an On/Off type wall switch or Appliance Module? Since that type bulb is not designed for a dimmer. Even the rare dimmable CFL bulbs can sometimes be an issue.
If it is a Appliance Module. Do you know if it is a later one called CFL friendly?

If you are using a two wire dimmer X10 Wall Switch. That steals power through the Load. Dimmable LED bulbs can be touchy. Some may work other may not. As the two wire wall switch is designed for incandescent loads.

 98 
 on: August 22, 2019, 05:16:05 PM 
Started by dla114 - Last post by dave w
I agree with brobin. If it is a (newer) wall switch it will come back on at what ever brightness it was turned off at. So if it was dimmed down it may not come back on with enough power to keep the bulb lit. Try turning the switch off and back on with the small tab under the push button. This will reset the switch memory back to full bright and then push the button to turn it on. Will the bulb stay lit?
If using a Lamp Module, unplugging the module will reset it.
Did you try the bulb in a non X10 fixture to make sure it is not the bulb? Don't be insulted, people tend to think it is an X10 problem and forget to check the bulb. 

 99 
 on: August 22, 2019, 01:27:54 AM 
Started by dla114 - Last post by brobin
What kind/model# of module/switch are you using to control it?  Are either of the bulbs labeled "dimmable?"  My first thought/guess is that you may be using a dimmer switch or module as opposed to an appliance (relay based) switch/module.  If you're using a dimmer and the 100 watt equivalent is not labeled as dimmable that could be your problem.  The 60 watt equivalent probably is dimmable which is why it works.  Like I said, this is just a guess so maybe someone else who's had the same issue will jump in.

 100 
 on: August 21, 2019, 09:23:19 PM 
Started by edjal - Last post by petera
  Thank you petera for your reply and expertise.  Clicking HG switch widget on then off are OK. and using send command via website (response value OK).

Using scheduler to  control module success is sporadic, and the Off command is not always successful. When scheduler is not successful I noticed the command did turn on widget but it did not turn on light
  I am new to HG I used AHP in the past with CM15 controller. While on AHP commands were always successful so I made sure CM15 was kept in same location as it always was in the past. Is it possible the CM15 is to distant from my gateway? it is only about 30' away however it is on a different floor. I used my iPhone to test wifi signal at CM15 and signal bounces from 4 full bars to 3 bars at times. Any ideas would be appreciated.  Edjal

All I'll say at this stage is at the fear of repeating myself again is make sure that all previous AHP macros and timers are cleared from the CM15 memory. If you have another CM15 you could use you could rule out a flaky CM15. I don't see signal strength here being an issue. I have seen signal collision between RF and PL using Mochad but HG uses the XtenLib drivers to power HG. Maybe this could be an issue too.

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