AM466 and Fluorescent Light Turning Back On

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AdamF:
Hi all,

I've read many posts about fluorescent lights flickering and turning back on using appliance modules.  I have an AM466 controlling an aquarium strip light.  It often flickers when turned off (which I can live with) but what I can't live with is the fact that it turns itse;f back on after my Active Home Pro turns it off.  Again, reading these forums it looks like this issue is caused because of the trickle current used for local control.

I had this light plugged into a lamp module for the longest time.  I changed it becuase I figured it wasn't safe having a 3-pin light plugged into a dimmable 2-pin lamp module.  It would flicker but NEVER turned itself back on.

Is my only option truly to open this thing up and cut the diode like in the mod examples on this forum?  I do have a PAO11 Receptacle that I could use to plug this light into.  I just figured that the AM466 was easier.  What I don't understand is why is the AM466 marketed as a "Fluorescent Lamp Module"?  It says, "Plug fluorescent light fixtures such as shop lights and energy-saving screw-in fluorescent light bulbs (in table or floor lamps) to control them with ActiveHome Pro and remote controls".  It seems that you can't really control fluorescent lights with the module.

So, I just wanted to make sure that my options were either:

a. Cut the diode in the AM466 meaning I would lose local control

b. Use a wall receptacle outlet

Thanks in advance.

Oldtimer:
Quote from: AdamF on December 30, 2007, 08:34:42 AM


So, I just wanted to make sure that my options were either:

a. Cut the diode in the AM466 meaning I would lose local control

b. Use a wall receptacle outlet



Go to this post http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?topic=14210.0 and click on the links to "Module Replacement" and "Lamp Modification".  They describe another way of controlling the effects of leakage current.

Brian H:
Cutting the diode doesn't always work completely. The appliance module still has a very small current flowing in the output even with the diode cut. I removed the last resistor making this current and the module became unstable! Since the module has a mechanical switch in it. It has to sense if it is on or off so if it is lats say on another on command does nothing. Without the sensing I got a machine gun rap rap rap as it tried to turn on and then gave up. ::)
Another trick besides OldTimers great mods; is to use a small 7 watt night light bulb with the other load so it stops the flicker and going back on.

Knightrider:
I know this is a crappy way of doing things, but it works for me.  I add a second "isolation relay" to the mix.  the module turns on the relay which directly powers up the device.  i use this to power up strobe lights on a dj rig.  By using the relay, I can easily switch out appliance modules without having to modify each unit.

AdamF:
I'm getting extremely frustrated right now.  First I tried a lamp module on the fluorescent light because I had one laying around.  It actually worked okay but not perfect.  And I knew it wasn't what I should be using so I got the AM466 appliance module.  As my thread indicates, this didn't work at all.  I'm not sure how you could ever use this on a fluorescent light like X10 claims.

So, I took out the AM466 and replace the outlet with a PA011 recepticle.  I obviously have the light plugged into the top controllable outlet.  I'm now having two issues:

1. The light still flickers when it goes off.  And, it still sometimes turns itself back on!!  How is this possible?  Do these recepticles have local control?

2. The recepticle only responds to RF commands.  I can get it to turn on/off from the remote.  But it's not working from AHP.  So, to test this out I created a macro in AHP where I send an on and then off command via RF to the address of the recepticle.  It now turns on/off just fine.  Why does it only work via RF?

This is really starting to drive me nuts.  Why is this so hard?  Someone please HELP!!

Thanks all.

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