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Author Topic: wired in light switch that controls modules but doesn't cut the power..  (Read 9319 times)

smjm1982

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I know there is a modern looking switch that may control the lights wired to it but I am looking for the ability to turn on lamps plugged into modules in the room that are powered by a light switch which also powers other devices I don't want to turn off.

Example:  A very common situation: my dilemma: I have sockets I use for my TV, cable and lamps.  A light switch (which I just leave on all the time) controls them but I would like to be able to turn the lamps on and off the way a light switch works without cutting the power to the other devices.

I would envision this device would look like a light switch and it would get wired into the light switch socket but it dosent cut the power like a light switch does when it is flicked, instead flicking it sends a message to turn on and off certain module controlled devices.

I realize you have a wireless solution to do something like this but 1) I want it to look like a real light switch & 2) I have a lot of wireless devices and fear possible interference problems.

The selector dials which have to be set to match the modules could be put on the side of the light switch but to where its hidden just behind the faceplate.  An X10 symbol on say the lower right of the cover plate would tell people its a specialized switch so its advanced functionality is not confused with a regular light switch if, in case, say, the house is sold or something.
« Last Edit: September 25, 2009, 04:08:21 AM by smjm1982 »
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Dan Lawrence

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Re: wired in light switch that controls modules but doesn't cut the power..
« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2009, 07:34:04 AM »

That would not work with X10.   X10 technology does not allow what you do what you proposed.    :( 
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I don't SELL this stuff... BUT I sure do ENJOY using it!!!

JeffVolp

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Re: wired in light switch that controls modules but doesn't cut the power..
« Reply #2 on: September 25, 2009, 09:22:53 AM »

Actually, there is an option.

Replace the light switch with a X10 transmitter that does not switch power at all, so all the receptacles would receive power all the time.  Then replace the "controlled" receptacles with X10 PAO11 switched units, or use a combination of appliance and appliance modules as appropriate.

The Leviton HCC10-1SW is a transmitter only that looks like a standard Decora wall switch.  Both X10 and Leviton make wall controllers that will control several circuits.  Here is a Leviton brochure:

http://jvde.us/data/Leviton_wall_controllers.pdf

Jeff
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Boiler

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Re: wired in light switch that controls modules but doesn't cut the power..
« Reply #3 on: September 25, 2009, 09:50:23 AM »

I realize you have a wireless solution to do something like this but 1) I want it to look like a real light switch & 2) I have a lot of wireless devices and fear possible interference problems.


Hello smjm,

If you are will to move a bit on the "real light switch look", there is another option as well.  Smarthome makes both 6 and 8 button Insteon switches that are backward compatible with X10.  6 Button Keypadlinc.

These devices provide a "main" button for controlling the load and secondary buttons for communicating with (controlling) other devices.  Since the KPL is a 2-way device (send/receive) the secondary buttons can also be used as status indicators. 

Boiler 
« Last Edit: September 25, 2009, 09:54:43 AM by Boiler »
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Mellowmark

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Re: wired in light switch that controls modules but doesn't cut the power..
« Reply #4 on: September 25, 2009, 06:08:30 PM »

Jeff is right the xpt with an appropriate keypad x10 pro module will controll any device module from x10 set to the Right code. You can order these on eBay from x10 express or smarthome.  The xpt can controll from 1 to 4 different codes up to 3 with dim. you just have to get the right keypad for your app.  just wire the switch leg straight through you switch box and install the xpt in its place.  There maybe a small problem if there is not white neutral in the box. Because the controller will need the neutral to work.  Hope the guy who wired your house fed the switch first good luck.
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