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modified through-hole cm15a

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Tuicemen:
I guess the only way to know for sure is for someone to get one of these and look inside.
The offical stance is the unit didn't get a overhaul.
We all know a simple antenna mod improved performance time will tell if this does the trick.

toasterking:
I only ask out of pure curiosity. I have an old, nonworking CM15A that I can't bring myself to throw away but will probably never have a reason to replace.

...unless Dave Houston finishes his "ZBasic Arduino on crack" mod; then it's going back on the bench!  :)

dhouston:

--- Quote from: toasterking on January 04, 2016, 11:11:00 PM ---I only ask out of pure curiosity. I have an old, nonworking CM15A that I can't bring myself to throw away but will probably never have a reason to replace.

...unless Dave Houston finishes his "ZBasic Arduino on crack" mod; then it's going back on the bench!  :)

--- End quote ---

My mod replaces the Cypress MCU, the RF receiver, RF transmitter and adds USB-SER & RTC chips (all on a daughterboard). It keeps the power supply, PLC & ZC interfaces, 120kHz oscillator and AGC circuitry. You will need to replace the antenna with a 50-ohm BNC connector, replace the EEPROM with a bigger one, replace the MCU with a DIP-18 socket and plug in my daughterboard. The RTC only needs 3V so the easiest thing to do is use 2 dummy AAA batteries (rather pricey but they do last forever). I'll design a kit with all necessary parts. You can use a telescoping antenna with a BNC base or an eggbeater antenna (minimal assembly required) available in kits (both non-amplified and amplified, w/5V via the coax, supplied by the daughterboard through a resettable fuse).

There's an optional ESP8266 based external unit (powered by a 5V power supply with microUSB plug) that provides a WiFi link and NTP time.
There are drivers for Windows, OSX & Linux which provide a virtual COM port and I'll document the communication protocol. Anyone who prefers Arduino code can reflash the ATmega328 with the Arduino bootloader and write their own code. The ESP8266 can also be Arduino-ized. I'll document the timing for the AGC Window & AGC Reset signals for those prefer the Arduino world.

I'll try to update some Windows, OSX & Linux applications I created earlier for some other X10 related hardware. I'll likely leave mobile apps for others as I find tablets and smart phones difficult with one hand paralyzed.

For those with and without soldering skills, this is highly recommended...
http://www.amazon.com/Velleman-VTDESOL3U-Vacuum-Desoldering-Heater/dp/B00B88FRME

You'll need basic soldering skills and a 25-35W soldering iron for the EEPROM & DIP-18 socket.

Tuicemen:

--- Quote --- The RTC only needs 3V so the easiest thing to do is use 2 dummy AAA batteries (rather pricey but they do last forever).
--- End quote ---
Couldn't you could make some with a piece of wooden doweling and rewire the compartment to only use the two with real batteries?
Much cheeper and I suspect it would last as long.

dhouston:

--- Quote from: Tuicemen on January 05, 2016, 10:28:20 AM ---Couldn't you could make some with a piece of wooden doweling and rewire the compartment to only use the two with real batteries?
Much cheeper and I suspect it would last as long.

--- End quote ---
Rewiring the battery compartment is certainly an option (and no dowels necessary) but I think most people will opt for the quick, simple dummies.
There might even be a Dummies for Dummies book in it.  rofl

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