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[brobin]

ANY coupler has to be wired or plugged into both legs whether at the panel or elsewhere.  One option is to put in a 220 volt outlet next to an electrical panel and plug the XTB-IIR (or a passive coupler) into that outlet.  I've done that with every XTB-IIR I've installed.  In fact the one I use now is plugged in about 50' away from the panel and works great.  Installing a 220 volt outlet by the panel is a simple job but if you're not comfortable doing it, an electrician can do it in under an hour.  We can walk you through the steps if you go that way.

As for the CP000 (aka XPCP) passive coupler (https://www.x10.com/xpcp-ratio-passive-coupler.html) read this: http://jvde.us/x10/x10_couplers.pdf

We've all tried them - as well as all the other coupler repeaters - with varying success.  The XTB-IIR is, far and away, the best solution and will save you hours of future troubleshooting.  To over simplify, it "outshouts" most of the noise on the powerline so that the X10 signal reaches its intended target - not unlike a radio station that boosts its transmitter power to reach more listeners.  It does so on BOTH legs of the powerline to provide a robust signal throughout the home.  Passive ones do nothing but bridge the weak signal to the other leg and the other amplifier/repeaters don't "shout as loud" to overcome line noise.  That's not to say you won't need any filters but certainly fewer, if any.  Over almost 40 years I've tried every signal coupler/booster/repeater/amplifier from X10, Leviton, Smarthome, and ACT and none came close to the XTB-IIR's performance.  $190 may seem like a big bite but trust us, it's worth every penny and more!

[nabril15]

@brobin
Excellent advice and opinion.
I will do another test with the dryer running to confirm if I have coupling issues to solve.
I reiterate that 2 months ago, everything worked fine and instantly, and now one XPS3 is determined to challenge me!! I get it, electronic devices break down over time, but it's still frustrating. Three weeks ago I didn't have phase issues or anything like that, and now I'm looking at a $190 xtbIIr possibly or some other solution to try.
Perhaps a cheaper start would be to replace that XPS3, and if the new one works, I'm done. That XPS3 sits in a metal junction box beneath a gazebo roof. While I have it covered and protected well, humidity will find its way anywhere. It works fine manually, but it won't receive the signal. I guess I could take it out, have it temporarily replace one of my wall switches inside, and then I could really test within the same panel. That's a bit of work, and something tells me that it still won't receive the signal.

What does the xtbIIr look like? Does it wire to the panel or does it plug in as you mentioned in the last reply?

[brobin]

There's a picture of the XTB-IIR on this page: http://jvde.us/xtb-iir.htm

You can wire it directly to a pair of breakers or attach a 220 volt plug and use it with a matching socket. (see below)

You can certainly try another switch first - they do go bad from time to time.

[Brian H]

ACT dropped their X10 and A10 devices a few years ago.
The ACT CP000 is a passive coupler for X10 and their enhanced X10 protocol A10.
Wires into the breaker panel like an XPCP. 
I still have a few of there active phase repeaters in my storage boxes.
XTB-IIR is now in use. With WGL V572 an all address X10 RF receiver in its X10 Boost Jack

[bkenobi]

I hardwired mine into a 220 breaker next to the panel. If I had to do it over I'd ad an outlet as suggested.

[Brian H]

Are the high power devices in your home. 220VAC or 208VAC?

Some housing developments and buildings. Are 3 Phase. With two of the three lines and neutral feeding individual homes. Power company alternates which two of the three to feed each home. To balance the total load. In that setup the high power feed is 208VAC and 120VAC line to neutral. The X10 commands in that case are 30 degrees shifted. I believe the X10 protocol does also send a command 30 degrees later.

While the split single phase would be 220VAC. 220VAC line to line. 120VAC line to neutral.

[dhouston]

These links provide details...
http://https://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/power.htm
https://www.laser.com/dhouston/coupling.html
https://digilander.libero.it/cvolpato/elettronica/X-10_Transmission_Theory.htm

[nabril15]

Are the high power devices in your home. 220VAC or 208VAC?

I'm fairly sure that they are 220. I've measured 220 at the pool pump feed.

Can you confirm if I just did what should be THE test to prove if the xps3 is faulty?
That xps3 is wired directly to an outlet that is a foot right behind it; it is wired to that outlet.
I plugged in the mt14 to said outlet, but the switch did not respond.
Is, in fact, that xps3 not responding to signals for some reason, and thus faulty???

If you think that it's still inconclusive, then I'll do the test by killing all power to the house and switching breakers one at a time. I can't do that because much needed laundering is being done.

[brobin]

If the switch and controller are on the same circuit within a few feet of each other and it doesn't respond it's very likely that, assuming the controller is good, the switch has failed. 

[nabril15]

an update, in the name of continuity and education

I replaced the infamous code 8 XPS3 thanks to an angel that lives in this planet, and it is controllable now by the MT014; the walking up to it is over.
I had to move it to another outlet for it to work, so my quest for the search for interference will definitely continue once we go on our holiday break from work, and I can shut the house down for a few minutes and test circuit by circuit. I had surgery on my left hand yesterday, so that will add time as well.

[brobin]

Best wishes for a speedy recovery and  on the switch!