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Author Topic: Phase Coupling  (Read 3529 times)

will1234

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Phase Coupling
« on: September 09, 2005, 02:55:18 PM »

I need to bridge the phases of my house and
am worndering if these is any way to use the
two PC controllers I have, CM15A and CM11A?
Use maybe a long serial for the CM11 or a
long USB cable with repeaters for the CM15?
Would this even work?
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Brian H

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Re: Phase Coupling
« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2005, 05:32:47 PM »

I doubt it. A coupler basically take the X10
signal from one phase and pass it to the
other phase. For those controllers to work,
the line signal one received would have to
be sent to the other one to retransmit on
the other phase. Also one needs Active Home
running [cm11a] and Active Home Pro [cm15a].
I don't think they would run together.
Computer would also have to be on 24/7.
You would do better getting plug in coupler
or repeater if you don't want to mess with a
hard wired capacitor, coupler or repeater in
the breaker box.
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larry s

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Re: Phase Coupling
« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2005, 12:04:48 PM »

Buy a smarthome active coupler/repeater and
plug it into your dryer receptacle.  This
thing receives incoming signals, amplifies
the signal and resends that signal out on
both phases in your house.  You don't need
an electrician and it solves the problem of
erratic x10 device problems immediately.  It
costs about $80.00 but the response to x10
signals is immediate and linear.  You can
still use your dryer because it contains a
pass through plug interface.  
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SteveRF

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Re: Phase Coupling
« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2005, 10:28:41 PM »

If you don't mind installing a phase coupler
across a 220v line from your inside breaker
box this is what I did.  I purchased a
passive coupler ($19.00), installed it in a
receptacle box and ran a short plastic
conduit to my breaker.  The coupler connects
across the 2 120vac lines and the ground.
This did the trick for me.  I no longer have
a problem with some units not responding due
to loss of Powerline signal.
SteveRF
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larry s

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Re: Phase Coupling
« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2005, 10:51:57 PM »

How are protecting the phase coupler
wiring?  I hope you did not connect the
wiring across the panel feeds or output of a
220v breaker without overcurrent protection
for the smaller phase coupler wiring.  The
dryer plug is safer for novices and you can
actually see through the units LED's
incoming and outgoing signals.  Hence you
can tell what phase is transmitting the
signal.
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Brian H

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Re: Phase Coupling
« Reply #5 on: September 17, 2005, 06:21:18 AM »

The wired in units are installed with a
dedicated ganged 15 amp breaker for each hot
lead, if you go by the instalation
instructions.
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larry s

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Re: Phase Coupling
« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2005, 11:44:14 AM »

Good installation.  Some people have a full
panel of breakers.  What do you do then?
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Brian H

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Re: Phase Coupling
« Reply #7 on: September 17, 2005, 03:01:29 PM »

Well by instructions you maybe out of luck.
Many pair it on another 220 volt in use. I
didn't say it was good just others do it.
Then again many just put a cap across the
220 volt breakers? Plug in to a dryer is
much safer. Though ACT Solutions has one
that is accepted for adding to an exsisting
circuit. Is fused [I believe] internally so
that it is safely porotected as is the
circuit it is connected to.
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SteveRF

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Re: Phase Coupling
« Reply #8 on: September 17, 2005, 06:17:21 PM »

Brian, Larry,
Exactly as you said. Mine is across a
dedicated ganged 15amp breaker in my utility
room.  One breaker lead feeds an elevated
receptacle box where I have my CM15A plugged
in and my X10 PS561 Alarm System.  Each
breaker also feeds the passive coupler.
After that installation, I had no more
trouble with lost PLC's.  If I had no free
breakers, I would have selected a max 15amp
gang that had NO noisey appliances on it.
There are many safe ways to do it. This
method worked for me for $20.00.  I do like
the dryer plugin method for ease of
installation. Now the capacitor method across
the line...not a good idea.. spend the bucks
and do it safely.
SteveRF
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larry s

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Re: Phase Coupling
« Reply #9 on: September 17, 2005, 11:18:45 PM »

The point here is the solution is not an X10
product. The capacitor method does not
reboost the signal, merely passing along the
same weak signal from one phase to another.
The active coupler boosts whatever level
signal it receives and then re-transmits.
The response to dimming commands are
immediate and linear.  I have installed
these is 6000+ square foot homes and they
work great.  X10 does not have an active
coupler.
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dave w

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Re: Phase Coupling
« Reply #10 on: September 19, 2005, 01:12:15 PM »

X10 Pro -
XPCP passive coupler.
XCPR active coupler/repeater.
Both are wire in products.
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dave w

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Re: Phase Coupling
« Reply #11 on: September 19, 2005, 01:12:59 PM »

X10 Pro -
XPCP passive coupler.
XCPR active coupler/repeater.
Both are wire in products.
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Noam

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Re: Phase Coupling
« Reply #12 on: September 19, 2005, 01:19:13 PM »

I put a capacitor across the 220V feed to my
A/C unit. However, I installed it in the
shutoff box located where the wires head out
through wall to the compressor, instead of
in the breaker box. The advantage for me was
that there was more room to work, and was
able to shut off the breaker, and work in a
box that was COMPLETELY dead, and with no
risk of shock. I would not have felt
comfortable enough to put a capacitor
directly in my breaker box.
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roger1818

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Re: Phase Coupling
« Reply #13 on: September 19, 2005, 03:41:13 PM »

Larry:  You are right that in a 6000 sq ft
home you would definitely want a
coupler/repeater but in small homes a
passive coupler is adequate.  Sure it
doesnít boost the signal, but if the signal
is strong enough without one than why
bother with the expense.
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roger1818

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  • Roger H.
Re: Phase Coupling
« Reply #14 on: September 19, 2005, 03:48:42 PM »

As far as dedicating two breakers for the
coupler, it isnít needed from a safety
perspective (it doesnít put much of a load
on the circuit).  The reason for using
dedicated breakers is to ensure the
strongest and cleanest signal is coupled.

Although the dryer outlet style are easier
(safer?), they donít provide as strong a
signal since it is further from the breaker
panel.
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