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Author Topic: Not Recognizing Unit  (Read 6168 times)

arf1410

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Not Recognizing Unit
« on: April 06, 2005, 07:56:34 PM »

I've been playing with both the regular
unit and the Diagnostic Unit, trying to get
one of them to work for 2 months.  Tonight
a new problem.  When I plug the USB cable
into the Diag. Unit, windows does not
recognize device, but windows DOES
recognize regular unit!  Windows had
recognized Diag. UNit correctly before!

Help!
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arf1410

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Re: Not Recognizing Unit
« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2005, 08:05:18 PM »

I unplugged and pulled batteries out for 10
minutes, then tried again and it worked...I
shouldn't have to do this!!!
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barryb

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Re: Not Recognizing Unit
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2005, 02:44:08 PM »

I just replaced my transceiver module model
RR501 because it wasn't switching on or off
at the designated times.  Well, I still
can't get the light to turn on from my PC.
It will go on with the remote.
Anyone know why?
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carmine pacifico

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Re: Not Recognizing Unit
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2005, 03:14:46 PM »

I do not know who come out with the stupid
idea to remove the battery and wait 10
minutes or more, the moment the battery is
removed there is no power left other than
in some small filter Capacitors, pull one
battery out, wait 1 second than reinstall,
if it still does not work, try erasing
memory via AHP.
There is nothing inside the CM15a that can
run for more than few milliseconds
unplugged and battery removed.
If you want a reliable product have a look
at the 1132CUP from Smarthome,
The CM15a RF range is very limited and has
severe hardware limitations and a
ridiculous number of software bugs. I made
a mistake to purchase this piece of junk
(CM15a with Smart macros) before looking at
the forums, so far no reply yet for a  RMA
so I can get some of my moneyback.
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andre

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  • Posts: 16
Re: Not Recognizing Unit
« Reply #4 on: November 02, 2005, 08:16:34 PM »

Sounds like there are still a lot of people
with CM15A's that need the additional
decoupling caps added.  Mine has run for 5
months flawlessly after adding the 4 caps
to the board. Add a 0.1uF cap across the
following locations on the board:
-In parallel with C11
-In parallel with C12
-from pin 1 to pin 8 of U2
-from pin 6 to pin 11 of U1
The power supply design of the CM15A sucks
and as a result the micro keeps getting
confused by every little transient the AC
line may carry. The mods work. They may
also fix the transients that cause the USB
not to work consistently, but then, if the
micro keeps its sanity, you shouldn't have
to plug in the USB cable.
Cheers,
Andre'
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