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 1 
 on: Today at 02:13:50 PM 
Started by HR - Last post by gadgetboy
I started with x10 in the 80's as well and most of my components still work as well. The only remotes I use now are my cell phones and my raspberry pi mini computer with a usb connector using HomeGenie. This site has been the only advice available to me and is a daily stop for me. I have had better usage of X10 than I have ever imagined possible and many of the units are available on Ebay and Amazon. As Mr Volp has been better for this system than anyone I have heard of, listen to him and don't give up on x10 without a fight. This system can do wonders for your needs.

Dave

 2 
 on: Today at 08:38:00 AM 
Started by HR - Last post by HR
I purchased another X10 transceiver to replace the X10 Pro transceiver I had been using for probably the past 10 years.  That solved my problem.   I don't think it should have, but it did.   The lamps all went on again.  I also discovered that I have an X10 repeater module in a drawer, which I plugged in....which didn't seem to do much of anything where I happened to have it inserted in the wall.  I didn't do the "let's try this outlet and see if anything changes....nope, let's try this outlet." etc.   

Follow-up question:  I believe there is a tiny light on the device to indicate when its repeating a signal, is it correct to assume the light should flash when its receiving, and repeating a signal?   

Thank You


 3 
 on: April 30, 2024, 07:57:32 AM 
Started by HR - Last post by HR
Nice to know X10 is still alive and kicking and I thank you both for the quick and concise replies.

 4 
 on: April 29, 2024, 11:48:52 PM 
Started by HR - Last post by JeffVolp
You need more than a passive coupler.  In addition to filters on any obvious noisemakers like UPS units for PC's, a repeater would go a long way to solving your problem.  The venerable XTB-IIR is no longer available so your best bet would be an X-10 XPCR wired in at your electrical panel.

I recently ordered a small batch of XTB-IIR PCBs for a customer who wanted to build his own units, and there are some PCBs left over for anyone who wants to build one from scratch.  The parts list and assembly notes are on line.

The plug-in XTBR is still available.  It is a single-phase version of the XTB-IIR and runs essentially the same repeater code, but it must be paired with a good tuned circuit passive coupler.  The X10 XPCP has been discontinued, but a good coupler can be made with just 2 components as described here:

  https://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=31723.msg189289#msg189289

Jeff


 5 
 on: April 29, 2024, 08:28:59 PM 
Started by HR - Last post by brobin
You need more than a passive coupler.  In addition to filters on any obvious noisemakers like UPS units for PC's, a repeater would go a long way to solving your problem.  The venerable XTB-IIR is no longer available so your best bet would be an X-10 XPCR wired in at your electrical panel. It's simple job that doesn't require an electrician unless you're uncomfortable doing it.
https://www.x10.com/collections/x10-filters-and-repeaters/products/xpcr

Also try unplugging some of the "wall warts" used for phone chargers and the like.  They can still provide power but start generating noise on the power line as they age or if they're poorly designed.  I once had one that shut down X10 for the whole house till I unplugged it!

Also, read some of the great info here:  https://jvde.us/x10-troubleshooting/

 6 
 on: April 29, 2024, 03:53:06 PM 
Started by HR - Last post by HR
I picked up my first X10 stuff in the 90's when shopping on the World Wide Web was akin to the Wild West.  I have 90% of the original items I purchased and for all intents and purposes, they still work.  The problem is the amount of junk we now have in our home plugged into power strips and so forth.    I am not an electrician and I'm not testing signal strength, etc, I simply have always had 2 RF Transceivers and I positioned them in various plugs in my home until the lights turned on, and turned off...and stayed that way.    For probably 18 years all was right with the world.  Except when you plugged in Christmas Lights or moved something to a different socket in a different room, then...well.....move that transceiver around.   

But the past few years have been problematic at best.  I believe one of my original transceivers died, half the lights stopped responding to my "Add a Keypad" flat adhesive-backed keypads I use to control two separate floors and blocks of lights on each floor.   I plugged in a temporary "small format" transceiver while I wait for the RF501 (?) replacement to arrive, and it helped but not 100%.  Now I have some lights that refuse to turn on (no signal) and I have others that randomly turn themselves off...and one that randomly turns itself on.

Obviously this won't stand, and I am hoping that having 2 of the larger transceivers (which I believe prevent ghosting of signals) again will alleviate the problem.

But truth is, this is a sloppy fix/band aid at best.  One of my lights no longer receives the on/off signal on the floor where all of the others do, and its the one that is closest to the small 3 button (plus dimmer) keypad (Cr2032 powered) and one of the two tranceivers.   in other areas of the house, lights are turning on and off and I believe this is due to having exactly 1 motion detector that turns on a light in a room when you enter it auto-magically.........again I think a ghosting/repeating signal.

I did pick up a couple of spare noise-isolators that I put on some power-strips that don't pull a lot of power, that seemed to help.....is the solution to add those to power strips when necessary?  I mean the whole x10 thing is a bit rube-goldberg in my home, but I can't deny that replacing everything with smart-bulbs that can be controlled from space is not my ideal solution.

I literally want to turn lights on and off and having the little CR2032 powered switches on the walls blended seamlessly into my home, but now those will really only trigger 'some' of the lights, enough to find a larger 16 button remote control and trigger the rest of them.   And even those, sometimes, I need to re-position my body, etc.     I do have a passive coupler on my dryer that I stopped using years ago because I found it seemed to make zero difference with it on or off, and on it would get and stay warm.   

Anyhow that's my story, suggestions or mockery both accepted with thanks.

 7 
 on: April 18, 2024, 08:21:12 PM 
Started by gadgetboy - Last post by brobin
Glad to hear it's working!

 8 
 on: April 18, 2024, 10:31:11 AM 
Started by gadgetboy - Last post by gadgetboy
Just a quick update.
I set up 4 of the six fixtures and then got sick, so no more up and down the ladders. The Switck (WS469) was still not working on the LEDs but thought it would need to wait until I wasable to agin ascend the ladder. Then I did my customary re-install and update of both RPi and HG and VOILA!!! everything works. It may be the change of seasons or something my neighbors stopped doing in their property but now it works. Once I can once again trust my legs to take on the ladder, I will finish the upgrade and let you know about the changes in operation. I have, on occasion noticed improvements in function with updates in both RPi and HG so maybe this has happened again.

Dave

 9 
 on: April 08, 2024, 08:09:40 PM 
Started by nabril15 - Last post by brobin
I've been using the Yolink modules which are long range RF controlled and not WiFi.  It's just over almost 2 years now and I'm up to about 35 devices including about 10 leak detectors.  Only the hub is connected to WiFi and modules can be set to talk to each other or through the hub.  Very tight Alexa integration and Matter compliance is coming.
yosmart.com

 10 
 on: April 08, 2024, 07:34:57 PM 
Started by nabril15 - Last post by SkipWX10
I have a hybrid system consisting of X-10 modules and switches and TP Link switches and some Amazon branded switches. All the X-10 stuff is controlled by the CM15a and everything is voice controlled by Alexa and a Smartenit Harmony.

One  reason for not ditching X-10 is simply the desire to retain local control. Lose the internet and you've lost control of your cloud based system. Since my TP Link and Amazon switches just control outside lights, I still have home automation inside with local control.

Just my 0.02

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