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Thank you for the information.
One thing that may effect the WM100 is the UPS used and the design of the WM100's power supply.
Many UPS units have a stepped or modified AC output on battery backup. You can find true sine wave UPS units but many still are modified output.
Depending on the exact model UPS output. The WM100 may not handle that signal well and act strange.
I an glad your was fine on the UPS and all seems to be fine with the setup.

As I'm sure just about everyone who uses the WM100 Wi-Fi module knows, it does not include a battery backup for its internal clock.
You can overcome this flaw if you put the WM100 on a UPS that will permit the WM100's signals to cross back into the outlet into which the UPS is plugged.
I have numerous X10 modules that I use in my home's automation system, and I discovered this vexing problem only after a power disruption.
I decided to try using an old UPS that I brought back online for use with the WM100 specifically. While this is not the best solution, since this is CLEARLY a design flaw in the WM100, I have been testing it for a week and it has resolved the issue with the time-loss. I have not tested to determine whether the frequency of the power supplied OUT of the UPS affects the timer in the WM100 over the long term. I have repeatedly cut/restored power to the UPS and the WM100's LED remains steadily illuminated, the WM100 functions normally afterward, and it appears to be keeping the time synced as set from my cell phone. I have repeatedly checked the WM100's "History and settings," and the timing of the ON/OFF signals to the other X10 modules remains as I set it.

Problem #1 with the lights is one that's a real head scratcher.  I got nuthin' except maybe bored poltergeists. 
Could #2 with the fan be caused by whatever you're using to determine the heat level failing open or closed to always indicate a high heat condition?  That would explain the fan turning back on all the time since the Ocelot would always see high heat as true.
For #3 you might try replacing or swapping the solenoids for zones 2 & 3 with others as I've had those fail in the past or maybe the 24VAC power supply for the solenoids is failing or there's a shorted wire to the solenoids.

Thanks for the suggestions.

All I can think of on problem 1 is some sort of intermittent noise source or powerline glitches.  The XTBM-Pro only gives the current noise level, which is zero.  But several weeks ago I did detect a high noise level that disappeared as breakers were tripped, but it didn't resume when that breaker was switched back on.

My idea on problem 2 is similar to yours.  There is a thermister in the garage that the Ocelot uses to calculate temperature.  I have to pick through the code to see what might be causing the problem.  I wrote that code two decades ago, and it has worked fine until just a few days ago.  Maybe all it needs is a refresh.

I've had solenoids go bad before, but they are working fine.  I can manually switch them on and off through the Rain8 with a 4-button X10 wall controller.  If it was a stuck valve, the next zone would have come on, but it didn't.  Similarly, the 24VAC is fine.

I can understand one unit acting up after a couple of decades due to a soft programmed bit, but why are three different controllers misbehaving the same way?  (Zone 3 stuck on again this morning.)  The only idea I have is that somehow random X10 traffic is confusing the Rain8 while it is proceeding through its sequence.  But it had worked fine for almost 2 decades.  Why now?

As a test I'm going to modify a XTB-523 to only accept the housecode that controls the Rain8.  If that fails, I guess I'll have to move the timer function into the Ocelot, and only use the Rain8 as a multi-channel X10 relay.

I considered a commercial smart irrigation controller, but we have the unique situation that there are just a couple of inches of soil on top of a lava flow for our 20' x 40' "lawn".  So that dries out very quickly in the summer when days are often over 110F.  The Ocelot runs periodic short cycles depending on the temperature to keep everything alive.  And of course we have to be compliant with water restrictions during the summer months.

Jeff

Problem #1 with the lights is one that's a real head scratcher.  I got nuthin' except maybe bored poltergeists. 
Could #2 with the fan be caused by whatever you're using to determine the heat level failing open or closed to always indicate a high heat condition?  That would explain the fan turning back on all the time since the Ocelot would always see high heat as true.
For #3 you might try replacing or swapping the solenoids for zones 2 & 3 with others as I've had those fail in the past or maybe the 24VAC power supply for the solenoids is failing or there's a shorted wire to the solenoids.

Just some ideas off the top of my head but I know that if anybody can figure it out it would be you!
I'll be interested to learn what you find and maybe learn something new!

As Mr Volp has been better for this system than anyone I have heard of, listen to him and don't give up on x10 without a fight.

I have been dealing with some "X10 Madness" myself lately.  Over the last week several lights controlled by X10 were on when they shouldn't have been.  I plugged in my XTBM-Pro to log X10 traffic, and it didn't record any X10 commands corresponding to the lights being on.  This has effected both X10 floodlights and Leviton X10 compatible wall switches.

Then this morning the garage exhaust fan was on.  Our Ocelot program turns that on to pull in cooler morning air if the garage had been very warm the prior day.  But yesterday was not warm, so the fan should not have been on.  I sent the X10 OFF command to turn it off, but surprisingly, a couple seconds later it turned back on.  I sent the X10 OFF command multiple times, and each time the fan turned off and back on.  I checked the XTBM-Pro log, and each time it recorded the OFF command, followed by an ON command.  Since it always responded to OFF commands before, I don't have a clue where that is coming from.

While not entirely X10, I've also been dealing with an irrigation issue that started about a month ago.  I noticed one of our irrigation zones had not turned off.  I've had valves stick in the past, but it was not that.  We have used a WGL Rain8 for almost 2 decades, and except for having to replace several triacs over the years, it has worked well.  It goes through a predetermined cycle initiated by an X10 command.  It apparently had stuck at the transition between zones 2 and 3.  I swapped in a spare Rain8, and the problem seemed to go away.  But a couple of weeks later zone 2 was stuck on again.  Cycling power cleared it.  Maybe a week after that zone 3 stuck on.  I swapped in another spare and even replaced the TW523 that receives the X10 commands.  But this morning zone 2 was stuck on again.  It is like somehow the timers in all three units are malfunctioning.  The XTBM-Pro only logged the X10 command that initiates the sequence.

X10 signal and noise problems are easy, but these have me puzzled.

Jeff

I started with x10 in the 80's as well and most of my components still work as well. The only remotes I use now are my cell phones and my raspberry pi mini computer with a usb connector using HomeGenie. This site has been the only advice available to me and is a daily stop for me. I have had better usage of X10 than I have ever imagined possible and many of the units are available on Ebay and Amazon. As Mr Volp has been better for this system than anyone I have heard of, listen to him and don't give up on x10 without a fight. This system can do wonders for your needs.

Dave

I purchased another X10 transceiver to replace the X10 Pro transceiver I had been using for probably the past 10 years.  That solved my problem.   I don't think it should have, but it did.   The lamps all went on again.  I also discovered that I have an X10 repeater module in a drawer, which I plugged in....which didn't seem to do much of anything where I happened to have it inserted in the wall.  I didn't do the "let's try this outlet and see if anything changes....nope, let's try this outlet." etc.   

Follow-up question:  I believe there is a tiny light on the device to indicate when its repeating a signal, is it correct to assume the light should flash when its receiving, and repeating a signal?   

Thank You

Nice to know X10 is still alive and kicking and I thank you both for the quick and concise replies.

You need more than a passive coupler.  In addition to filters on any obvious noisemakers like UPS units for PC's, a repeater would go a long way to solving your problem.  The venerable XTB-IIR is no longer available so your best bet would be an X-10 XPCR wired in at your electrical panel.

I recently ordered a small batch of XTB-IIR PCBs for a customer who wanted to build his own units, and there are some PCBs left over for anyone who wants to build one from scratch.  The parts list and assembly notes are on line.

The plug-in XTBR is still available.  It is a single-phase version of the XTB-IIR and runs essentially the same repeater code, but it must be paired with a good tuned circuit passive coupler.  The X10 XPCP has been discontinued, but a good coupler can be made with just 2 components as described here:

  https://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=31723.msg189289#msg189289

Jeff

You need more than a passive coupler.  In addition to filters on any obvious noisemakers like UPS units for PC's, a repeater would go a long way to solving your problem.  The venerable XTB-IIR is no longer available so your best bet would be an X-10 XPCR wired in at your electrical panel. It's simple job that doesn't require an electrician unless you're uncomfortable doing it.
https://www.x10.com/collections/x10-filters-and-repeaters/products/xpcr

Also try unplugging some of the "wall warts" used for phone chargers and the like.  They can still provide power but start generating noise on the power line as they age or if they're poorly designed.  I once had one that shut down X10 for the whole house till I unplugged it!

Also, read some of the great info here:  https://jvde.us/x10-troubleshooting/