X10 Community Forum
🖥️ActiveHome Pro => ActiveHome Pro General => Help & Troubleshooting => Topic started by: Bob338 on June 11, 2010, 06:56:51 PM
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I'm new to the forum but not to X10 (I got my first modules years ago, as Radio Shack 'Plug and Power's).
I recently decided to add several options to the old limited system with which I'm been operating while using the Radio Shack Controller. Two appliance modules are used to control a vent fan in crawl space under one section of the home and another to control a domestic hot water recirculating system. Added were three LM465 lamp mocules, a couple of Socket Rocket modules with a remote pad which X10 calls a porch activation system, and of course I added the CM15A USB controller. I added Active Home Pro v3.236 installed on computer running 32 bit Windows 7. Everything downloaded perfectly and the drivers are indicated as being the latest. I haven't yet added any timers or macros as I'm been unable to get two of the LM465 lamp modules to respond from the computer. Everything responds from the old Radio Shack controller. The Remote Pad which functions through CM15A also works for the porch lights but doesn't respond from the computer. Why don't the two lamp modules respond from the computer and yet work fine with the old controller? What do I have to do to make them function?
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Welcome to the forums.
Have you tried the old RS controller in the outlet where the CM15A is connected to test communications to the LM465's?
Since new LM465s have soft start. You may want to try calling the modules a LM14A Two Way Module.
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/SoftStart
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Thanks.
Just tried the old controller on the same circuit as the CM15A. No dice. On replacing where it was, it no longer controls the module at all, either on or off. I've totally lost it now. And, on checking the other functioning module, I've lost it too! ?????????
I've also tried changing the "type" and that did nothing. Funny thing, on checking the one older module that does work, on calling it up I noticed it was set to a wall switch (which I KNOW I didn't do,) tried it on that setting and it went on and off normally. Changed it back to Lamp Module and it still works, no effect What gives?
The two outlets on which the modules do not function are in rooms on different floors on different circuits. Thoughts? (Mine are censored!)
Reason for edit: Tried an appliance module (AM486) and it still didn't work on several options in the program. ??
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First, what version of AHP are you using? Second, are you sure your phases are coupled? If your power feed is 220 Volts, then your house is on two phases of 110 volts. X10 signals cannot travel across phases unless you have a phase coupler.
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As in OP, version 3.236 for AHP.
I'm presuming the phases are coupled as everything worked fine with the old Radio Shack controller. I'm uncertain how they could work through one controller and not the other if they weren't. How can I tell otherwise?
Just had an interesting thing occur. Both lights controlled by these modules came on by themselves during the evening and I was able to turn them off by the manual controller. They still do not function from the computer.
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Marginal control problems are almost always due to weak signal levels or powerline noise. The fact that your CM15A doesn't work may mean the nearby computer is sucking up much of its output signal. You may want to read these troubleshooting guides I wrote to help people like yourself:
http://jvde.us/x10/x10_filters.htm
http://jvde.us/x10/x10_couplers.htm
Jeff
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Thanks. I think I better understand the issue and it makes some sense to me. Looks like I need an electrician. The house is large and spread out, the computer is probably 90' from the electrical panel, the outlets about the same distance, one on a different floor. The puzzling thing is that the old controller is even more removed from the panel and it mostly works. It doesn't look like this might be a "DIY". I'll post results after consultation with an electrician.
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The older controller being farther away may mean it was on a cleaner circuit and had less problem or you have a phase problem where device are on each phase and signals are not getting there.
I would try a X10 type filter on the computer. I have my computer on an UPS and its power line filters absorbed much of my X10 signals until I added an X10 type filter to the UPS's AC Line Cord.
Make sure the CM15A is NOT on a surge strip. Many of them absorb X10 signals as power line noise.
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Thanks Brian. Where would I get that "X10 type filter"? X10? Is there a part number? Seems like the next less expensive route to follow. I'm not on UPS and the CM15A is NOT on on a power strip, but the computer and peripherals are. Actually the function module is very close to the computer and the Radio Shack controller.
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Thanks Brian. Where would I get that "X10 type filter"? X10? Is there a part number? Seems like the next less expensive route to follow. I'm not on UPS and the CM15A is NOT on on a power strip, but the computer and peripherals are. Actually the function module is very close to the computer and the Radio Shack controller.
"Blowtorch repeater" i.e XTBIIR or ACT234. Forum concensus is the XTBIIR is best choice. The CM15A has a lower output than the older X10 wired controllers (Mini Controller, Maxi Controller etc.), so it could be the CM15A simply isn't putting out a strong enough signal.
Filters will help, but IMHO; todays homes, with all the newer electronics that makes noise, requires dozens of filters, where as one high output repeater will overwhelm the noise. $0.02
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The X10Pro XPPF is a five amp one but pushing it too close to five amps and they get warm.
The Smarthome 1626 is a five amp and the ten amp one is a 1626-10
Act makes a fifteen amp AF-120.
A google search or many of the EBay Automation dealers have them.
I have a Smarthome 1626-10 myself. Also an XPPF and AF120 in my spares box.
I also went for the XTB-IIR myself.
Though I am a mixed protocol setup now. Insteon and X10 devices. The Insteon devices also have an optional X10 address added to them.
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Thanks gentlemen. I'll post results. I'm going to have the electrician come out first. Then I think I'll get the XTB-IIR. At that point I'll see if I can find what may be creating the line noise and will go to the filters.
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Anyone know how to get a rise out of Jeff? I wrote him right after this and again twice with no response. Problem still exists but I'll post results when I get it solved.
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Anyone know how to get a rise out of Jeff? I wrote him right after this and again twice with no response. Problem still exists but I'll post results when I get it solved.
I have responded three times to your emails - once back on June 14, and twice today. Since I didn't receive an acknowledgement, I added a post in the Powerline Reliability sub-forum asking for people to be sure their spam filtering would not intercept my replies.
Jeff
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Sorry! Your responses may have had all the earmarks of spam. I've added both address to receive. May I please have a copy of your initial response? Check your mail, both addresses. Thanks.
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May I please have a copy of your initial response?
Another response has been sent. Please let me know if that didn't make it through either, and I will send it through a PM here.
Jeff
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Bob338; My AT&T Yahoo email has a separate spam folder. If your provider has one and doesn't just discard what it thinks is spam. You may find Jeff's responses in your spam area.
Heck mine sometimes puts known OK emails in the spam area if its filters see some phrases. ::)
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Heck mine sometimes puts known OK emails in the spam area if its filters see some phrases. ::)
As does my gmail.
And don't get me started about Comcast - they prefer to filter legitimate email and let real spam on thru.
Hmmm - maybe they installed their spam filter upside down?
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Heck mine sometimes puts known OK emails in the spam area if its filters see some phrases. ::)
As does my gmail.
And don't get me started about Comcast - they prefer to filter legitimate email and let real spam on thru.
I have Comcast and they have NEVER filtered legitimate mail and let known spam through, in fact they have a service for users with a "secret" address (known only to customers) where they take spam apart, find out the address it came from first and then block that address from all Comcast mail servers. You never see that spam again. I still have a very good spam fighter and much of the time it has little to do.
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This is my thanks to all and particularly Jeff. I'm sure everyone has been unable to sleep wondering if my problem was resolved!(grin)
Jeff's mail WAS trapped in my spam filter a bit unusually, but he resent and I got his excellent suggestions. I had constant newbie problems, none related to equipment or software. Operator Error! But I bought the XTB-IIR to which I immediately installed a pigtail and connected at an outlet proximate to the distribution panel. After installation and checking to see if possibly there was shipping damage to the unit (none!) Jeff assisted and suggested it was a phasing problem. Smarthome had the easiest solution with their new gizmo that attaches to a 220 dryer outlet, also very near the distribution panel and which I don't use, and upon receipt and installation of it all problems resolved! (Except for the operator problems caused by some swapping of modules and not checking and changing the codes!)
In any case, thanks to all, and particularly Jeff. I've got exactly what I want and will now embark on expansion. THANKS!
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As I recall, you had a situation where you wanted to plug the XTB-IIR into a standard 120V receptacle. It will certainly work that way, and I did that myself because all my X10 devices are on one phase.
Since you apparently have a convenient 240V receptacle, you could also have wired the XTB-IIR to a matching plug, and used it both as a 2-phase repeater and a passive coupler.
Jeff
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Should have discussed that option with you though you did suggest using it as both the repeater and coupler. I'm happier this way as the XTB-IIR is in the garage next to the distribution panel and the coupler is inside in the laundry room where I use a gas dryer and don't even use the option on the plug. Plus both are out of sight. Just what I wanted, except for the slight extra expense.
In any case I'm happy with your help, your equipment and your very prompt attention to my problems. Thank you!