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Wall Switches

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AzCoronaDog:
I've used both the WS467 toggle switches and the WS12A decora style switches.

Both types have a mushy feel, and often require more than one push to operate.  When you're used to quickly hitting a switch when coming into a room, having to stop and press it again is a major annoyance.  Also, on the decora style WS12A, always having to push the bottom of the switch is a tough habit to form.

They also both have a slight delay after pushing before the light goes on or off.  Not a big deal there, but again, not what you're used to with a conventional switch.

I had a WS467 controlling my pool light, and it was erratic at best from remote control. It worked fine when used directly, but the whole point was not to have to walk all the way to the side yard to turn the light on.  Granted, the light is 400w, and the switch is the farthest away from my transceiver, so it was pushing the limits.

I added a coupler / repeater to my system, and things got a little better for the pool light, but it was still annoyingly erratic.

After some research, I've discovered one of the main reasons the X10 switches have reliability problems is the lack of a neutral wire hookup.  This means the X10 signal must travel through the load, which in the most common case of a light bulb, presents considerable resistance.

I've switched to another brand of wall switches, that are only slightly more expensive ($20 - $25 each), but are far superior and have much greater capabilities.  I won't name the company, but I think I now have a smarter home.

I have a lot of other X10 gear, and to their credit, the X10 brand plug in modules work great.  The only failure I've ever had with one was a lamp module that I inadvertently severely overloaded with Christmas lights.  All my other lamp and appliance modules have worked flawlessly for years.

Charles Sullivan:
My Reliability Report:

I have thirteen WS467 Wall Switches installed in my home.  Ten  of these are operated on a daily schedule via CM11A timers, the others only on demand via an X10 remote and transceiver.  The switches have been installed for between 7 to 9 years and in all that time I've had only one failure.  (Which is better than I can say about the mechanical light switches elswhere in the house.)

There are reports of the push-buttons on WS467 switches  wearing out or breaking, but that hasn't been a problem with my usage  - manual operation is very rare for any of them.

I also have five AM486 Appliance Modules (running landscape lighting transformers) and three LM465 Lamp Modules installed for the same period of time and operated daily, and have had no failures with these.  The one plug-in module failure I experienced was an X10Pro PAM22 2-way Appliance Module, which died a week or so after installation.

Other failures I have experienced are one RR501 Transceiver,  one TM751 transceiver,  one IBM-branded MiniController, and one CP290 (which remained plugged in but mostly unused after its timing function was replaced with the CM11A).

Brian H:
You may also have been pushing the wattage limit with a 400 watt load on X10 switches.

Charles Sullivan:

--- Quote from: Brian H on September 04, 2006, 08:30:48 AM ---You may also have been pushing the wattage limit with a 400 watt load on X10 switches.

--- End quote ---

How so?  The WS467 Wall Switches are rated for 500 Watts.  Running at 80% of rating seems relatively conservative.

Granted, the switch will run cooler with a smaller load and probably have a lower failure rate as a result (as with any electronic device), but that wasn't the OP's concern.

rhea:
What is the difference ---not design wise, but technically(electrical).. WS467 and all those Decorator Dimmer types?  I am concerned about them getting quite hot when operating..    Also, which wall switch should I use if I want it to ONLY --ON - OFF.. not dimming option.  I installed WS 467 today and  am running it on full load..(my chandelier is  5   60 Watt bulbs)   When it's heating up most..whem the lights are on Max or in an dimming option (30-50%)?  What about those Leviton Wall Swithces?   Are they performing the same way as WS467 and etc?

Thanx in advance 

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