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Author Topic: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467  (Read 12086 times)

dave w

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #15 on: March 14, 2011, 03:33:19 PM »
Quote from: pconahan on March 14, 2011, 03:13:40 PM
Couple of more newbie, quick questions guys?

2.  Bought a XPCR coupler/repeater.....  It reads to put in on a 15/20amp circuit.  Does it matter which one?

Can't help on #1, but from a code standpoint you should use dedicated breakers for the XPCR. You should not try and share a breaker already protecting a branch. Mixing solid and stranded wire under the same breaker screw can cause overheating at the connection.

15 amp breakers would be the proper size.
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pconahan

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #16 on: March 14, 2011, 06:21:47 PM »
Disregard Question Number 2, its in and working great!!!!!!!!!!

That said, with the repeater coupler in, maybe I don't have as much of a noise/TED problem as I thought....
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dave w

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #17 on: March 14, 2011, 07:15:48 PM »
Yeah, my theory is a "flamethrower" repeater and fix anything, including nearsightedness and excess flatulance....wife disagrees.
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pconahan

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #18 on: March 14, 2011, 09:42:05 PM »
Too funny Dave!    So, all breakers are taken at this point(as far as I know until I get it mapped properly, which I intend to do). 

The electrical in our house apparently has quite a history, so its possible there are breakers with no purpose.  Will provide an update soon.

Thanks again everyone!
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Brian H

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #19 on: March 15, 2011, 06:21:57 AM »
"flamethrower" repeater. Is what some of us call the JV Engineering XTB-IIR Coupler Repeater.
It blasts an X10 signal back on the power lines.
My lowest X10 signal is like 1.75 volts measured by the XTBM X10 signal meter. My highest is 9.95 volts near the repeater at the breaker box.
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dave w

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #20 on: March 15, 2011, 05:54:24 PM »
Quote from: pconahan on March 14, 2011, 09:42:05 PM
So, all breakers are taken at this point
No knockouts left?

 -:) Well I am not recommending or advocating this, but I do know a person who did wire a repeater into used breakers by squeezing  an additional 14ga solid pigtail under the breaker screw and then wire nutted the solid pig tail to the stranded wires of the repeater. So far his breaker panel has not burst into flames (AFAIK).
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pconahan

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #21 on: March 16, 2011, 11:05:54 PM »
Nope, nothing open that I can tell, but that could change with my mapping.  This is quite the tedious task.  To complicate matters, I put in a few more light switches yesterday and now I've got different lights automagically turning on by themselves.  Maybe I need that filter after all?
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dave w

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #22 on: March 17, 2011, 10:59:36 AM »
Quote from: pconahan on March 16, 2011, 11:05:54 PM
Nope, nothing open that I can tell,
$0.02
Looking at your breaker panel, if you have knockouts left below your existing breakers you can install new breakers. No knockouts mean your panel is at capacity, but unless your home is very old, the panel is usually sized to have some reserve capacity.
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pconahan

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #23 on: March 17, 2011, 07:27:31 PM »
This home was built in 1951  Somewhere in the 70's or 80's, the tree out front was hit by lightning and it was close enough of a strike to fry lots of wiring, at least up to the panel.  Some wires appear brand new, others are falling apart.   There is a whole house surge protector now.  I'm not against a new breaker box if its necessary for safety.  So, hopefully that adds context and understanding as to why I might find some useless breakers with my mapping.  Continuing to work that as we 'speak'.

Happy St Patricks Day!
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pconahan

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #24 on: March 17, 2011, 07:30:48 PM »
BTW, I turned TED off last night and have had no erratic behavior since with lights automagically turning on.  I still have a couple LEDs in my kitchen that aren't responding well, but I think, no relation.

So, I'm convinced that I need this filter installed. 

That being said, lets's say I have TED installed across a 15/20........Do I simply install the filter in the same place?  I don't get how the filter doesn't need to be between the breaker and the TED unit....
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dave w

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #25 on: March 17, 2011, 08:43:52 PM »
Quote from: pconahan on March 17, 2011, 07:30:48 PM
BTW, I turned TED off last night and have had no erratic behavior since with lights automagically turning on.  I still have a couple LEDs in my kitchen that aren't responding well, but I think, no relation.

So, I'm convinced that I need this filter installed. 

That being said, lets's say I have TED installed across a 15/20........Do I simply install the filter in the same place?  I don't get how the filter doesn't need to be between the breaker and the TED unit....
Unless the filter is a cap ( i.e. http://www.smarthome.com/4840/Leviton-In-Line-Noise-Reducer-6289/p.aspx ) it does go in series with the load.
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Brian H

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #26 on: March 18, 2011, 07:28:37 AM »
I am no TED5000 expert but have looked at the installation and troubleshooting manuals.
The MTU module in the breaker box sends power line signals on both phases. Black slightly stronger than the Red one.
The Gateway receives the signals from the MTU.
This constant 132KHz signal manytimes messes up X10 and Insteon power line communications.

Challenge here is.
You have to get the Gateway and MTU on the same branch circuit of the house and filter the MTU from the rest of the house. While allowing its signals to reach the Gateway.
If you put the filters {one on each phase Red and Black} between the MTU and the breakers. The gateway will not receive any data. Unless it is also on the same filtered branch line as the MTU is on. Filter would have to handle the rating of the branch line if connected that way.

Have you looked on the TED web site for ways others have done this?
Unfortunately there isn't too much there right now. Seems a major crash lost most of the posts including users solutions and fixes.
http://forums.theenergydetective.com/
http://forums.theenergydetective.com/index.php/topic,37.0.html
« Last Edit: March 18, 2011, 11:10:03 AM by Brian H »
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pconahan

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #27 on: March 21, 2011, 07:18:05 PM »
Update:  TED had a solution involving a filter on their site, in fact, they sell the x10 filter  :-)

So, I've installed that per their directions.   My real-time wattage on the TED seems a little light, but maybe its right.  its supposed to be accurate within 2%.

I've mapped every switch, fixture, appliance and outlet back to a breaker/phase this weekend.  My legs are killing me from running stairs!   Next step:  Organizing lights vs appliances vs sensors etc

I've had ONE light come on automagically, last night since the filter install.  Could've been a kid turned it on before bed time, not sure.  We'll see what the future holds.

Question:  Can anyone tell me what switch to use for fluorescent lights, no neutral available?  Its not a 3-way.
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Brian H

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #28 on: March 21, 2011, 07:25:19 PM »
You maybe out of luck for a fluorescent light and no neutral in the switch box. All the relay type switches need a neutral.
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dave w

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Re: Newbie, no connection to cm15 from wm467
« Reply #29 on: March 21, 2011, 07:43:28 PM »
Quote from: pconahan on March 21, 2011, 07:18:05 PM
I've had ONE light come on automagically,

"automagically"  rofl
I love it...I may "borrow" it, that is just too good.

AFA the flourescent light. As Brian said all the switches for any non incandescent load requires a neutral. However could you use a wire-in Appliance Module (XPFM http://www.x10pro.com/pro/catalog/receivers.html#wire) at the flourescent fixture and a Slim-Line Switch for control?
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