X10 Community Forum
🔌General Home Automation => Automating Your House => Topic started by: Mark1 on January 06, 2007, 04:11:14 AM
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I'm looking at setting up some X-10 functionality in my home. Primarily to control outside devices and in the garage. I live in a very cold climate so components being able to operate in extreme cold is a factor for me.
I have two questions I'm looking for some input on.
First, I really want to be sure that when I send a command that the unit I send it to is actually turned on. I like the idea of the 2-way systems to be able to verify that say, the engine heater for my truck, did in fact turn on. Being new to X-10 I'm not sure if there is another way to be sure of this or not. If 2-way is the way to go, what I really need is some 2-way receptacles. Worst case I could use 2-way switches to control the power to the receptacles. Any suggestions on how to do this? The garage is detached from the house so I can't visually double check. Yes it feeds power from the house to the garage. ;) Any suggestions?
My second question is one of temperature. Is there a way to remote read into the software a remote temperature reading? For example, my hot tub? Or the temperature in the house if I'm away? I'd like to be able to have certain things activate if a particular temperature drops. Will the computer software do that? When it's 40 below outside I'm reluctant to leave home due to the extreme consequences of a failure. I want to be able to monitor systems and temperatures remotely, and to have things like my backup electric baseboard heat activate if the boiler fails and the temperature drops. Again, anythoughts?
Sorry to ramble so but it's a bit overwhelming right now.
Thanks for any and all help!
Mark
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Sorry I can't be more helpful, but I really don't know the operating temperature range of X10's modules.
I will caution you that what ever solution you use to send and receive control signals, make sure it is redundant.
If you use a two-way module, is the status returned just the fact that the module received and understood your command, or is it the actual status of the module's internal switch, or is it (better yet) the fact that current is passing from the module's outlet through whatever you have plugged into it?
When you're talking about thousands of dollars of possible damage, these distinctions can be very important.
Also consider adding a sensor that will detect the heat, light, etc. of the device you have plugged into the module, to report back that the module is (or is not) actually doing it's job.
I know this is not the specific help you were looking for, but I just wanted to point out that whenever serious damage is a possibility, be sure everything has at least one backup.
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OK this is from a fairly old X10 Application Manual. "X10 Powerhouse Application Manual" Home Automation Systems.
Modules use ICs that are rated at 0C to 50C; 32F to 122F; but since the electronics generate some heat; lower temperatures may still work. Also different modules of the same model number may work at different temperatures due to IC tolerances.
I have seen Motion Sensor posts where the temperature is much lower than that and using Lithium Batteries allowed colder temperatures to still function over Alkaline batteries.
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Mark 1
FWIW
An all electronic module should not be a problem (at least outside mounted Lamp Modules were not in Michigan at -15F). The problems for me were Appliance Modules, the lubricant (grease) X10 puts on the solenoid switch cam, turns hard. Since the X10 receptacle modules are similar inside, they may seize also unless they are mounted in an outside wall and receive heat from house.
I had some success cleaning the X10 grease off the cam and spraying with silicone spray lubricant or dry Teflon spray lubricant.
X10 does not make a 2-way receptacle.
The X10 two way appliance module returns an "ON" when the solenoid switch closes (output of switch is monitored, NOT load current).
Second question: Probably the simplest method would be to use a mechanical thermostat coupled to a "Powerflash" module. When the thermostat closes the powerflash will send an "ON" code for the HCUC it is set to.