X10 Community Forum
🔌General Home Automation => Automating Your House => Troubleshooting Automation Problems => Topic started by: yeldarb on December 09, 2007, 03:07:21 PM
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I had a string of LED holiday lights plugged into a Lamp Module (LM465) and noticed that when "off" they were still on but very dim. I switched out the Lamp Module for an Appliance Module (61-2684A) but they were still dim when "off".
After some websearching I found this forum and learned about the sensing circuit, so I tried the modification for disabling it (clipped the diode, as the first example here http://www.idobartana.com/hakb/Modifying_Appliance_module.htm#Defeating%20local%20current%20sensing ). However it seems to have made no difference. I was unaware of the "sensing circuit" and "current leakage" issues... so perhaps there are other things about X10 of which I am unaware.
I thought an Appliance Module was a simple relay switch. What is this business about a small amount of current being allowed through the Appliance Module even when it's "off" If that's the case, then what kind of X-10 module do I need to buy that is strictly "ON" or "OFF" with no current sensor or current seepage? There are a lot of devices coming out (CF bulbs, LEDs with and without transformers, etc) which probably won't work with "clever" X-10 devices. Does this finally mean the end of the trusty Lamp and Applicance modules for use around the house?
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Yes both an Appliance and Lamp type modules have a local control sensing circuit. Basically it let you turn on; an off module; by cycling the controlled devices switch off and back on. That also causes very light load LEDs to glow [my small LED Light Bulbs also always glow 50% or so] and CFLs to restart a appliance module turned off.
The diode and jumper mods stop the sensing of the current but there are still a few resistors in there supplying current even if the diode and jumper are cut. Easiest fix for many is a 4 watt standard night light bulb on the output of the module along with the LED lights. A power tap is one way to do it.
When I converted a Lamp Module to a SSR output I also removed all the resistors that kept the current running. It has no current on the output and my LED Bulbs do not glow dimly all the time.
I did a quick set of tests. Before the mods on a Appliance Module there was about 2.3 ma AC and 1.6 ma DC [the diode messes up stuff] on the output. With both diode and jumper out. I measured .33 ma AC. Not much but was enough to keep a few of my low wattage LED bulbs dimly glowing. I also tried a Black and Decker FWLROD weather resistant module with no Local Sensing Circuits. It also had about .33 ma AC and kept my LED Bulbs glowing dimly.