X10 Community Forum
🔌General Home Automation => Automating Your House => Topic started by: enlite on January 06, 2008, 04:31:56 PM
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I noticed today that one of my ws467's is warm to the touch, and works fine on/off manually, but does not respond to any x10 remote signals. I tried using just about every code -- none work...
defective?
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It is normal for the WS467 to be warm. The triac, which is what actually controls the AC, creates heat, and it needs to dissipate that heat.
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Is the no response something new or has it never worked?
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brand new switch, right out of the box today. Manual on/off works perfect -- x10 remote on/off does not work.
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What Tranceiver are you using to receive the remotes RF signal and sending it back to the powerline?
The wall switch will not respond to any RF remote signals directly or for that matter most X10 modules.
Try the receiver in a different outlet maybe closer to the wall switch.
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I have 4 other WS467 switches installed, and they all work.
I tried this one in a different location, same deal - manual on/off works, x10 remotes dont.
I'm using the mini transceiver, plam pad and credit card remote.
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Does the WS467 work if you plug the TM751 transceiver into same circuit as WS467? (probably an outlet in same room is on same circuit).
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Just tried. No luck.
Does the WS467 work if you plug the TM751 transceiver into same circuit as WS467? (probably an outlet in same room is on same circuit).
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Well if the house and unit code are matching the switch. They sure sound bad.
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Does the WS467 work if you plug the TM751 transceiver into same circuit as WS467? (probably an outlet in same room is on same circuit).
I'm having a similiar issue. I have an IR543 that I'm controlling from a hidden cabinet with a Harmony remote with uses RF. I can get 5, ws467's to work, but the other two won't, unless I MOVE the IR543 to another outlet, then all will work. I can't move the IR543 though permanently. What is causing this and how do I fix it?
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I have an IR543 that I'm controlling from a hidden cabinet with a Harmony remote with uses RF. I can get 5, ws467's to work, but the other two won't, unless I MOVE the IR543 to another outlet, then all will work. I can't move the IR543 though permanently. What is causing this and how do I fix it?
It sounds as if you may have a "phase issue" [can be searched here for more info]. You have two 120 volt lines coming into your home from the power company. Together those two lines is where you get 240 for stoves and electric dryers and such. You need a "phase coupler" to let the X10 PLC signal to pass from one 120 volt line.. to the other. I used the dryer plug model (http://www.smarthome.com/4816B2/SignaLinc-trade-Plug-In-Phase-Coupler/p.aspx) at my home.
I had the same problem with my Home Theater (http://www.davesdomainonline.com/ht/ht). Fixing the phase issue made X10 a ton more fun.
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Thanks for the reply dave. After messing around for 2 hours, I found the problem. In my computer room I have a APC backup w/built in surge protector that has about 6 things plugged into it.
(http://www.apc.com/resource/images/products/200/E180F997-5056-AE36-FE615FE464EB0250_f_h_200x100.jpg)
I unplugged them all, and the one causing this was my 24" computer monitor. If I unplug that, the IR543 works from any outlet and can control everything. As soon as I plug the 24" monitor back into the APC backup/surge protector, then only some items work. Would that module you posted fix this issue if I plugged the monitor into that first? Thanks.
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I would try an X10 type filter on the UPS.
My APC BX1000 sucks up all kinds of X10 signals.
I used a 10 amp Smarthome FilterLinc on mine. Only because the 5 amp version may have been close to the UPS's input rating. I looked and the 5 amp seems to be no longer listed on their web site.
http://www.smarthome.com/1626-10/FilterLinc-10-Amp-Plug-In-X10-Noise-Filter/p.aspx
The X10Pro XPPF may work for you also. Just that it does not like to be run near it rated current for extended periods.
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Thanks! Now, couldn't I just put plug the monitor into the filter, then plug the filter into the APC? IF I put the filter at the outlet, I'm worries about it's being too much current, as it would have to supply the whole APC and the other 6 items plugged in.
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Most likely it is the AC filter in the UPS that is the problem.
I had to use the filter on my UPS AC Power Cord.
On AC the UPS uses very little extra current. Just enough to float charge the battery; run its controls and supply the power to the devices in its outlets.
I don't think 10 amps would be used.
If you are worried ACT makes a 15 Amp filter.
http://www.smarthome.com/4845ACF/15-Amp-Plug-In-Noise-Filter-AF120/p.aspx
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Ohh, didn't know there was one inside the unit. Cool. I really don't know much about amps. All I know is I have a 24" monitor, printer, mini stereo system, paper shredder, phone, router/cable modem, plugged into it. Now idea what type of amps I'm drawing. I'll probably go with that 15 amp. It's even less expensive than the 10amp. :)
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Yes and it has an external fuse. Not that I think you would ever get close to 15 amps. The 10 amp FilterLinc has a soldered in fuse internally.
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After a little more messing around, I found that if I plug the monitor straight into a wall socket, the issue goes away, so maybe it really is the monitor iteself causing this.
Even weirder, I have a rommba robot vacuum in another room which was plugged in yesterday when I had everything working, now everything doesn't work unless I unplug it now. Strange how this was plugged in yesterday and it everything worked. I may need a few of these.
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The filter in the UPS will most likely absorb X10 signals as it is not tuned to not mess up the X10 120KHz line transmissions.
The rommba charger maybe making noise or absorbing the signals. The difference between days could be how charged the battery was as the load on the charger may change the noise it makes.
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Brian, need your help again. I've hooked up some WS4777, 3 ways, and so far so good. But now I'm in the kitchen and the existing switch has 4 wires on it, 2 red, and 2 black, instead of 3. Not sure why. The other 3 ways had 3 wires, and a ground, this one has 4 wires and a ground. The WS4777 only has 3 wires coming out of it. Not sure what to do. This switch can be controlled from 2 other places, plus the master.
EDIT, nevermind, I found out that you jus cap off the 2nd black wire and it won't be used.
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That is a four way switch setup.
You will need an added CS277 to use all the positions. I guess you could also jump the travelers going through one of the boxes to bypass one position. If you do that ask for more help so the correct pairs are tied together.
ftp://ftp.x10.com/pub/instructions/4-way-wiring.pdf
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Even weirder, I have a rommba robot vacuum in another room which was plugged in yesterday when I had everything working, now everything doesn't work unless I unplug it now. Strange how this was plugged in yesterday and it everything worked. I may need a few of these.
Brian H nailed this with his answer, but having seven Roombas, let me buttress his answer.
After a mission and Roomba docks, the charger is in high charge rate mode and your power button is doing the slow orange flash. When the charger switches to the trickle charge mode the button switches to green. The different modes create different levels of noise from the charger. I have a high output repeater so have never experienced a Roomba related X10 signal problem, but know from the noise a wireless speaker located in the same room as one of the Roombas that the chargers are very noisy. They crank out 22V at 3 amp, so it isn't surprising.
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That is a four way switch setup.
You will need an added CS277 to use all the positions. I guess you could also jump the travelers going through one of the boxes to bypass one position. If you do that ask for more help so the correct pairs are tied together.
ftp://ftp.x10.com/pub/instructions/4-way-wiring.pdf
Thanks, Hmm, I have the ws4777 hooked up at the spot where there were 4 wires, 2 black, 2 red. I capped off one of the blacks. And I have the two CS277's at the other spots, where there are 3 wires. I just turned the power back on and none will turn the lights on from these switches. What am I doing wrong now?
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You have the Master in the center position where the four way DPDT switch was that switched the travelers.
The companions at each end. One is probably the feed end and the other the load end.
I will have to think on this, but I know we have a few electricians that frequent here and may have more information for you.
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I put the master in the center mainly because aesthetically it looks better beside the ws467's in the same box, but maybe I can't have the master there.
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The wire diagrams show exactly where the master should be, some show near the line for switches without the neutral. Others show near the load with the neutral. The diagram should be followed precisely, or the master will not receive the signal properly.
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That is a four way switch setup.
You will need an added CS277 to use all the positions. I guess you could also jump the travelers going through one of the boxes to bypass one position. If you do that ask for more help so the correct pairs are tied together.
ftp://ftp.x10.com/pub/instructions/4-way-wiring.pdf
Thanks, Hmm, I have the ws4777 hooked up at the spot where there were 4 wires, 2 black, 2 red. I capped off one of the blacks. And I have the two CS277's at the other spots, where there are 3 wires. I just turned the power back on and none will turn the lights on from these switches. What am I doing wrong now?
Ok, I got it to work, and put the companion in the middle. I took the two red wires from the box and wired nutted them with the red wire from the companion, and then put the blue wires from the companion to each of the blacks from the box. I'm new at this so thanks for helping. I had to mess with the wires in the middle a couple different ways to get it. Everything is working now, so I'm assuming I did something right, or it wouldn't work.
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:)% Sounds like you got it.
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Ohh, didn't know there was one inside the unit. Cool. I really don't know much about amps. All I know is I have a 24" monitor, printer, mini stereo system, paper shredder, phone, router/cable modem, plugged into it. Now idea what type of amps I'm drawing. I'll probably go with that 15 amp. It's even less expensive than the 10amp. :)
You might not want the paper shredder in the mix especially if it is direcly line powered (no giant wall wart). Their current draw is fairly high, especially if you accidently stall it.
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Thanks! Now, couldn't I just put plug the monitor into the filter, then plug the filter into the APC? IF I put the filter at the outlet, I'm worries about it's being too much current, as it would have to supply the whole APC and the other 6 items plugged in.
Back to my issue with my 24" monitor plugged into my UPS... Is there a way I can now before hand if I could just plug this into one of the outlets in the UPS, then plug the monitor into this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/X10-PRO-XPPF-Plug-In-Filter-120-VAC-X10-Troubleshooting_W0QQitemZ170564212385QQcategoryZ94879QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp5197.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D4882678648661711398
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An UPS many times is a great X10 signal killer if plugged into the wall directly.
The UPS should be the one with an X10 filter on its AC power input.
I have a 10 amp FilterLinc on mine.
Almost 100% chance the UPS has a AC Input filter in it and the monitor is already filtered.
That AC filter on the UPS power input is what kills the X10 signals as it is noise to the UPS.
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Thanks again. Don't you find it strange that just unplugging the monitor plug only... Fixes the situation? There are a ton of other things plugged into that UPS, but only the monitor messes things up when plugged into it. BUt if I plug the monitor into another outlet, the problem doesn't exist either.
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Strange thing can happen with electronics. Murphy like to mess with me all the time.
It can't hurt to try an X10 filter on the monitors power cord directly.
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From your descriptions, it sounds like your system is marginally working. In that case small changes in the electrical environment can impact system operation.
The problem is probably a combination of weak signal levels and electrical noise on the powerline. Isolating "problem" devices with filters will help. So will boosting your signal levels.
You may find these troubleshooting guides helpful:
http://jvde.us/x10/x10_filters.htm
http://jvde.us/x10/x10_cellet_noise.htm
Jeff