X10 Community Forum
💬General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Msradell on January 29, 2009, 08:55:43 AM
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I know they're now promoting the AM466 as being a CFL friendly module. My question is does it have local control? I can live without it very easily but it's something my wife insists on. If not a very me other modules (Pro-line?) that can control CFL's and have local control?
I've been using X-10 for a long time and have been on several other forums but just discovered this one (not sure why). Looks like a lot of good information available here from some well versed individuals.
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Yes, it (still) has local control. But I notice the X10.com product description does not mention local control. X10 is always good at changing things.
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Mine does not seem to toggle back on when the local lamp is cycled off and back on. With a 40 watt bulb.
Tried a 100 watt bulb same results. No local toggle back on if it is off.
Since the electronics in some CFL bulbs are known to re-trigger the Local Controls. Maybe it is defeated in the new CFL friendly models.
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By that do you mean you can never turn it on by local control or you can't cycle it on and off but can turn it on after it has been off for a while?
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I never got it to tuen back on with Local Control. I will let one stand for a time with the module off and then cycle the local table lamp off and back on. I do think the new ones don't have local control any more and as I said local control and CFL bulbs many times don't play nice.
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I never got it to tuen back on with Local Control. I will let one stand for a time with the module off and then cycle the local table lamp off and back on. I do think the new ones don't have local control any more and as I said local control and CFL bulbs many times don't play nice.
Thanks for the response! I tried sending an e-mail to X-10 but they never answer! I wish they had better customer service. >*<
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Test with an old B&D FWAR Appliance Module that is an OEM from X10
A New AM466 3 Pin Date Code: 08A02.
100 watt Sylvania Bulb; 26 Watt Lights Of America CFL and a Microbrite MB-800DP 8 watt CCFL.
Old Module: 100 Watt Bulb. Module off. Cycle local switch from on to off to on. Module goes on.
26 Watt CFL. Module off. Local switch on to off to on. Module goes on. If module turned off by X10 goes back on from triggering local control.
8 watt CCFL. Module off. Local switch on to off to on. Module goes on. Turn off with X10 stays off.
New Module: 100 watt bulb. Module off. Cycle local switch from on to off to on. Module stays off
26 watt CFL. Module off. Cycle local switch from on to off to on. Module stays off
8 watt CCFL. Module off. Cycle local switch from on to off to on. Module stays off.
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Thanks for doing the testing! I'd heard that in some cases CFL's would cycle back on with the old modules. Of course I've also been told the new ones still have local control which they obviously don't.
I wonder if a manufacturer of the bulb (and thus the design) has an influence?
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Thanks Brian!
I based my information to Msradle on the behavior of a new Appliance Module I assumed had to be the new CFL module, since it was purchased from X10 last fall.
If I can find it in my boxes of "spare modules" I will pop the case this weekend and verify old or new.
Based on your thorough tests I bet I have old modules.
Msradle, sorry for the mis information.
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Thanks Brian!
I based my information to Msradle on the behavior of a new Appliance Module I assumed had to be the new CFL module, since it was purchased from X10 last fall.
If I can find it in my boxes of "spare modules" I will pop the case this weekend and verify old or new.
Based on your thorough tests I bet I have old modules.
Msradle, sorry for the mis information.
Dave, there's so much going on these days regarding CFL's and X-10 I'm not really sure there's such a thing as misinformation. Unfortunately X-10 it's not very forthcoming with information. They say they have a module to work with them which in reality is a reworked appliance module it probably would have been better if they'd given it a different number to avoid confusion in addition seeing the actual specification would be very beneficial. Of course the CFL manufactures are not a whole lot better with providing specifications, schematics, etc.
What one test shows can be dis-proven (or should I say re-proven) with the same equipment at a different time under different circumstances. It's going to take a while for this to be cleared up, of course by then we'll have to be talking about LED's!
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..... of course by then we'll have to be talking about LED's!
I am talking LED's now (have been). They are even available at Sam's Club now... no need to order over the Internet. I think... the trick is NOT to think all-or-nothing. I use some CFL's, a few LED's, even some evil old regular light bulbs. I remember [in the 50's] home lighting wasn't even a second thought for most people... and much of that hasn't changed. One light in the center of the room sucks... no matter what kind of bulb is in it.
It isn't just a better lightbulb that we need... we need better approaches to lighting. Better in most cases... including this one... also means more. It has always been better... (brighter, cheaper, easier to see) to have two 40 watt bulbs than one 100 watt bulb. As our new technology bulbs give us less light... we need to have more fixtures.
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I am talking LED's now
How do LED's behave with X -10 control? I'm assuming you also have to use appliance modules to control them? What advantages over CFL's do you see with them? Most I've seen are quite directional and color rendition wasn't great. They do come on very rapidly from what I've seen.
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.... I'm assuming you also have to use appliance modules to control them?
I've been using adapters and SocketRockets (it's not recommended). The results vary.. but thats OK. I don't beleive that there is a ONE bulb.
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My low wattage LED bulbs and under counter strips. Glow at about 1/2 brightness with either the old or new appliance modules. Even if the new one does not have local control. It still has a circuit in it to detect of the switch is on or off. I disabled that circuit for a test and got a machine gun type noise as the module tried to go no and could not detect it. Tried I be live three time and gave up. Ending with it still being off.
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My low wattage LED bulbs and under counter strips.
I also have some of the undercounter "task" LED's. And I think they are the best (bright WHITE) LED lights I've tired so far. I've found.. that reducing the lighting can give a room/home a cave feel. But adding a couple LED fixtures (to a CFL light or two setup) can remove shadows and make a room feel brighter and more friendly. And the great thing is it may only require an additional couple watts.
What I have done is automate the backlighting (LED's). Using the (non-recommended) SocketRockets, the X10 Floodlight (PR511) and AHP macros. I use the dusk/dawn sensor built into the floodlamp to turn the LED's On at dusk and Off at dawn. Then I use timer macros to turn the LEDs OFF for a five hour period between dusk and dawn. This time of year (winter) the LED's seem like they are on a lot. But in mid-summer I hardly notice them.
Someone could argue that the X10 uses more energy than the LEDs and... therefore there isn't any energy savings. But in the BIG PICTURE of automation... there are real savings. Savings in energy use.. and money costs. But more important it isn't just less use.. its a smarter, better use of our most precious resource... our own enjoyment of our homes.
Replacing the one 100 watt lamp in the room, with a 28 watt CFL... just makes bad lighting.. still bad but cheaper. Replacing the 100 watt bulb with a couple 14 watt CFL's and a little decorative LED up-lighting in a dark corner... improves the quality of the lighting as well as saving money. Automating part [or all] of the lighting so it isn't left on... and so no one fumbles through a dark room.. is icing on the cake.
With all that said... my actual point is: I still also use regular incandescent light bulbs too, and I have no plans to stop. CFL's, LED's, incandescent, halogen... they're ALL GOOD. It's more important that grandma doesn't fall down the dark steps at night... than it is to use a politically correct lightbulb. I know this... because I am married to grandma.
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How do LED's behave with X -10 control? I'm assuming you also have to use appliance modules to control them? What advantages over CFL's do you see with them? Most I've seen are quite directional and color rendition wasn't great. They do come on very rapidly from what I've seen.
Just to weigh in on this LED / Appliance Module discussion.
I have LED puck lights (switching wall wart driven), LED ropes, three line driven 5W Cree or Luxeon spot lights, and a couple multi LED PAR 20 bulbs.
I can only use an Appliance Module on the wall wart pucks. All of the other listed LED styles refuse to extinguish when the App Module is OFF. The leakage current through the module is more than sufficient to keep the other LED lights lit all the time.
I, like Dave X10, use Socket Rockets for everything else and they work well, even though X10 recommends "incandescent bulbs only" be used in Socket Rockets.
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I use CFLs in Socket Rockets but one, and that one has a AM466 with a night light in a cube tap that is plugged into the module.
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I use CFLs in Socket Rockets but one, and that one has a AM466 with a night light in a cube tap that is plugged into the module.
I'm assuming it's an old style AM466 considering the new ones are not supposed to require that kind of arrangement?
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Apparently, the "CFL Friendly Appliance Module" is more hype than promise. X10 makes major changes to modules and doesn't change the part numbers, so we have to resort to various ways to find out what you have.
Somebody at X10 needs to beaten with a switch iron for that decision.