X10 Community Forum
🖥️ActiveHome Pro => ActiveHome Pro General => Help & Troubleshooting => Topic started by: LudeSH01 on November 14, 2009, 02:41:26 PM
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I just received my system and started with the computer software and installation of 1 lamp module... I set up the software and the 1st lamp I connected worked great, which is also in the same room as the usb transceiver. However when I try to setup in any other room of the house, it does not work, i am currently trying to setup another lamp in the living room, and its a basic pull chain lamp with an incandescent bulb, and still no reaction from any module, however if i take the module from the living room and replace it with the module in the office which is where the usb transceiver is, works just fine... Any suggestions PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Sounds like some power line problems.
Noise; Signal Suckers or module is on the other phase of the homes wiring.
We have some troubleshooting threads that maybe a help to you.
Is the CM15A interface connected to the same outlet as the computer and is it on a surge suppressor?
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no the cm15a is plugged into its own outlet, nothing else plugged into that outlet. Computer is plugged into a surge protector on another outlet in the same room..
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http://forums.x10.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=q8psrsc2era0b7hsu5se65ch31&topic=7951.0
Is one of the threads that may help you. There are others. Doing a search may find others.
Since no module seems to work in the living room. It sounds like a signal problem.
Many signal problems are related to the homes split phase wiring. If the controller is on one phase and the module is on the other. X10 signals have a very hard time going all the way to the transformer in the street and getting back to the other phase. Many have to add a passive coupler or repeater. I use Jeff's XTB-IIR now, but have had others before it.
You did try the one from the computer room in the living room?
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the one from the computer? I have a lamp mod in the office (same room as the computer), however did not try that out in the living room... I am going to do that now.. Other than that if it is a noise issue, do i have to filter it at the breaker paner, or at each outlet I am trying to automate?
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I just tried the module from the office in the living room. Left the setting off. When i plugged it in, the lamp came right on, then had no control through active home....
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You have to filter the noise at the offending device. Like I have a Smarthome 10 Amp FilterLinc on my APC BX1000 UPS. It sucked up all kinds of X10 and Insteon signals.
Sounds like the living room is not receiving the signals.
Try reading some of the troubleshooting links in the thread I posted earlier.
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thanks brian,
i just read about the phase couplers and i think thats what i will start with. I do have AT&T u verse with its backup battery and all. Could that be a problem like your UPS? I am also waiting on a wired controller and other parts to come in, if i plug the wired controller in the living room like I intend to do, will that be act like a repeater for the main transceiver to the computer? Basically start by shutting off the computer, unlplugging the batt backup and start process of elimination?
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From what it sounds like. I will more than likely need to buy 2 or 3 of the BoosterLinc Plug in filters, On top of what is in the office, I have 2 plasmas in the house, one connected to an APC power supply, 2 stereo receivers with lots of power, PS3's, XBOX 360's, AT&T (Cisco) Receivers, and other small things. Should I try the turn the stove or dryer on method to see if it reduces any noise?
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Nope. You need a filter on every device you mentioned. They are ALL signal blockers. Unplug every one, no exceptions and see if your modules work. BTW, computers are a BIG noise producer and every PC needs a filter.
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will one filter take care of all the problems if i just plug it into the wall outlet in which the power supply is connected, all audio and video components are connected to that APC, only one cpu in the house, and one batt back up for the Uverse, you sure a phase coupler wont take care of that? What if I just put one of these in: Boosterlinc Plug-In PLC Signal Booster, i have been reading on that and people say that could be the answer just to find a descent location for it?
I just read the reviews from the Boosterlinc Plug-In PLC Signal Booster and this is what one person said:
Review: I could not use the X10 system in my house. I had installed a active coupler / repeater and filters at all my TV, computers, and electronic equipment. Still I could not even measure a signal at some outlets. I added the product and now all over my house I can get maximum signal strength.
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FWIW
You may not need a filter on everything, only the worst offenders, especially if you consider a repeater, like XTBIIR or ACT 234 rather than a single phase amplifier like the BoosterLinc.
I have dozens of noise sources and only have to actually put filters on two. A microwave and big screen TV. My ACT 234 cranks the X10 signal up enough that it is well above the noise. However I would recommend the XTBIIR over the ACT as it has a higher output, unless you need the ACTs' status LEDs.
Another good source of noise information comes from Jeff Volp who also manufactures the XTBIIR.
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm
http://jvde.us/
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Thanks Dave, you have been a great help, now if I am not running anything on my 220 phase, do I really need the XTBIIR? Or just because it drives such a strong signal? I will more than likely purchase the XTBIIR, it looks like it will solve the problem better than the BoosterLinc, being that you have one and know about it. SO for instanse, my living room is in the center of the house, if I plug the XTBIIR in there i should get a better signal, or plug the CM15A into the XTBIIR?
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Thanks Dave, you have been a great help, now if I am not running anything on my 220 phase, do I really need the XTBIIR? Or just because it drives such a strong signal? I will more than likely purchase the XTBIIR, it looks like it will solve the problem better than the BoosterLinc, being that you have one and know about it. SO for instanse, my living room is in the center of the house, if I plug the XTBIIR in there i should get a better signal, or plug the CM15A into the XTBIIR?
The XTBIIR and the ACT 234 needs to be wired to BOTH phases in your home. In other words it is like a 220V appliance. The repeater acts a a phase coupler to couple the X10 signal to BOTH phases in your home ( a 220V appliance bridges both phases to get 220V).
One thing you might try is to unplug everything that might be a noise sourse: Any "wall wart" charger that "feels like it is an empty case"...only weighing a couple of ounces. These are switching power supplies and are noise generators. Next unplug flat screen TVs, microwaves, computers, UPS, etc. Then using a X10 controller start sending ON and OFF commads to all the X10 modules. If some start working and some don't it is a pretty good indication you have noise and phase coupling problems. Now turn on your stove oven and see if your non receiving modules start to work. The oven, using 220V acts as a phase coupler.
Next start plugging in everything disconnected, sending X10 commands after each appliance is connected. When thigs stop working, the last item you plugged in was a noise source. Use this method of trouble shooting to identify all your big noise sources. The If you get a repeater and wire it in you will be able to determine IF you need additional filters. X10 is great, but old technology so is sometimes difficult to get working "out of the box".
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thanks again dave... I will try that..... Im going to just wait until i receive my sc5030-s maxi controller on tues, along with the palmpad and other accessories.... Because other than my cpu right now, i have no other control device.
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After you get your controller. You can move around to outlets and test.
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good to know....Im really new to x10 equipment.. so ive learned alot so far..
so will that controller act as a transmitter, or just a controller?
for instance, if i were to remove my active home pro box from the wall, that controller will still work??
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The Maxi Controller is a stand alone device. It can send [transmit X10 commands on the power line] on one Dial Set House Code A-P and all sixteen Unit Codes for the House Code.
Commands like on; off; bright; dim. All lights On all Units Off.
Yes it will work independently of the CM15A AHP Interface.
Did you order any TM751 or RR510 Transceivers to receive the RF commands from the Palm Pad or are you going to use the CM15A to receive them?
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yes i did, i have the palm pad and the keychain remote on the way with the rf transceiver.. I intalled a wall switch dimmer in the kitchen but the lights must have a ballast or are the cfl's i think, are there any dimmers for that application within x10 modules?
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X10 two wire dimmers. Steal power through the load [incadescent bulb] and should not be used with Low Voltage Lights, CFL, CCFL, Inductive Loads like fans.
X10 does make a relay type that just goes on and off like an appliance module and does not dim. It requires a Neutral Power Wire in the switch box. WS13A X10Pro XPS3.
X10Pro does make a dimming switch for inductive loads. XPDI3. It may work; but some loads; still don't like it. It also needs a Neutral Power connection. Fluorescent and CFL bulbs probably not. CCFL and dimmable CFL bulbs maybe OK depending on the brand as some work some do not.
Since the CM15A also can transceive X10 RF commands. You may have to go into the Hardware Configuration Tab and set the House Code the TM751 is using to not transceived. If not they may step on each other as the TM751 is not polite and will just send commands as received. The CM15A is polite and if the TM751 started first. It should wait.
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Ok good to know, i know there isnt a neutral wire in those boxes so there goes that option... i will play with the transceivers and set the house code so they dont step on eachother...
Now my last question is being that i have my living room equipment on a APC power conditioner, wouldn't that potentially reduce noise, so basically its the battery backups, and the other tv and stereo setup that need the filters? I bought 2 of the 10 amp filters and a 200a dryer plug in phase coupler to start.
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Part of the APC power conditioner maybe a noise filter. Most kill X10 and Insteon power line signals as they are what they consider noise.
So it may filter out noise on its outputs like TVs etc, but its input filter may absorb signals.
I have a 10 Amp Smarthome FilterLinc on my APC BX1000 UPS.
You can always test for differences with the APC connected and disconnected. If things change then a filter on it maybe needed.
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ok i just got my 200a phase coupler dryer plug, and 2 10 amp filters,i connected the filters to my batt backup and my apc power conditioner... With those 3 i have eliminated most of the problems however, i have one more plasma and stereo receiver i do not have a filter on in the master bedroom, that is now the only room i cannot receive signals from unless its through an rf remote transceiver, right now its workable however would like to use the computer timer setup for that room as well and that is the only line the computer transceiver does not reach, would you recommend putting in a filter on that plasma and stereo receiver first before i buy a signal booster, or can it be more of an issue than im thinking? any suggestions?
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Unplug [off is not enough as they are in standby] the stereo and plasma TV. See if it makes any difference. In the rooms X10 signal reception.