X10 Community Forum
💬General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: BoyntonStu on January 18, 2011, 07:37:16 AM
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If the DS10a is triggered, would a TM751 be able to receive it?
Is it possible to program a DS10a to a House/Unit code?
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No. All security sensors need either a security console like the one with the DS7000 or to use with automation you need the CM15a transceiver that comes with activehome pro and the onalert plugin.
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No. All security sensors need either a security console like the one with the DS7000 or to use with automation you need the CM15a transceiver that comes with activehome pro and the onalert plugin.
OK I am presently using parallel UM506's to control a single device.
For each UM506 I presently use a TM751 and a MS-16A.
I would like to use DS10a's to trigger an AM486.
If I used a DS7000, could it address each UM506 and the AM486's?
What is the reliable range of a DS7000?
Could I simultaneously use both the TM751 and a DS7000 in order to gain range and reliability?
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Let me rephrase.
The ds10a will only talk to either a security console like the ds7000 or the cm15a transceiver used with activehome pro.
The only way you are going to use the ds10a in any automation is by using activehome pro, cm15a and the onalert plugin.
Using the ds10a with the ds7000 is ONLY a security system without any automation features.
If you want toe ds10a to trigger an AM486 or anything else other than a security console, you need activehome pro, the cm15a and the onalert plugin.
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Let me rephrase.
The ds10a will only talk to either a security console like the ds7000 or the cm15a transceiver used with activehome pro.
The only way you are going to use the ds10a in any automation is by using activehome pro, cm15a and the onalert plugin.
Using the ds10a with the ds7000 is ONLY a security system without any automation features.
If you want toe ds10a to trigger an AM486 or anything else other than a security console, you need activehome pro, the cm15a and the onalert plugin.
Thanks, but this ad confuses me even more:
http://www.x10.com/products/x10_ds7000.htm
The package includes:
Security System Console List Price $49.99
Security Remote Control $26.99
Wireless Motion Detector $49.99
Lamp Module $12.99
Keychain Security Remote $19.99
2 Door/Window Sensors
Is the lamp module comparable to an AM486?
How do the Window Sensors communicate with the lamp module?
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In that package you are getting a security package. The ds10a sensor triggers the security console to set the alarm off. The remote is to arm/disarm the system. The console can also control a light, the lamp module. On the remote is button for lights, or security lights. You can turn the light on and off from the remote. Also, the console will flash the light when tripped and it will flash the light once when armed.
In other words, the ds10a will not turn the light on and off. If only used with a security console, it will only trigger the console. The console will only turn on the light if you press the remote button or if the system is tripped.
If you want the door sensor to turn on a light when the door or window is opened, without setting off the alarm, you need activehome pro and the onalert plugin.
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Boynton Stu
I know where you are going with this. Let me build on the help from lviper. You could use DS10s and the DS7000 console for water sensing. However the console when first "Armed" will flash your Appliance Module (taking the place of the Lamp Module). Then when the console is triggered in alarm (your water leak sensed by a DS10) it will turn your Appliance Module ON. However the console then begins flashing the house code (All Lights ON - All OFF- All lights ON - All OFF. etc. etc) so the Appliance Module will turn off with the first "All OFF" command and will remain off. This probably ain't gonna do what you want.
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Boynton Stu
I know where you are going with this. Let me build on the help from lviper. You could use DS10s and the DS7000 console for water sensing. However the console when first "Armed" will flash your Appliance Module (taking the place of the Lamp Module). Then when the console is triggered in alarm (your water leak sensed by a DS10) it will turn your Appliance Module ON. However the console then begins flashing the house code (All Lights ON - All OFF- All lights ON - All OFF. etc. etc) so the Appliance Module will turn off with the first "All OFF" command and will remain off. This probably ain't gonna do what you want.
Dave,
When you get lemons, make lemonade.
" so the Appliance Module will turn off with the first "All OFF" command and will remain off."
There is a leak detected and I want the AM OFF.
I do not understand (All Lights ON - All OFF- All lights ON - All OFF. etc. etc)
Why will the AM remain OFF and not cycle ON/OFF?
Exactly what I desire.
If the AM controls the main water valve, and it stays off, my problem is solved.
Fix the leak and restart the system.
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Dave,
I do not understand (All Lights ON - All OFF- All lights ON - All OFF. etc. etc)
Why will the AM remain OFF and not cycle ON/OFF?
Because it is not a light. Only the X10 light controlling modules on the DS7000 house code (Lamp Modules, Socket Rocket and incandescent Wall Switches,) will respond to the ALL LIGHTS ON command. However the house code ALL OFF command effects all modules including the Appliance modules on the same HC as the DS7000. So when you address your Appliance Module with the same HCUC as set on the DS7000, and you Arm the DS7000, the Appliance Module it will receive a HCUC ON followed by a HCUC OFF to acknowledge the DS7000 armed (normally this would be a Lamp Module). Your valve controlling Appliance Module will turn off (since it was already on). Then if the DS7000 alarms the Appliance Module will respond to the house code ALL-OFFs that the DS7000 repeatedly sends during an alarm. Any X10 light controlling modules on the same house code will be responding to the house code repeating command of ALL LIGHTS ON and the ALL-OFF.
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Dave,
I do not understand (All Lights ON - All OFF- All lights ON - All OFF. etc. etc)
Why will the AM remain OFF and not cycle ON/OFF?
Because it is not a light. Only the X10 light controlling modules on the DS7000 house code (Lamp Modules, Socket Rocket and incandescent Wall Switches,) will respond to the ALL LIGHTS ON command. However the house code ALL OFF command effects all modules including the Appliance modules on the same HC as the DS7000. So when you address your Appliance Module with the same HCUC as set on the DS7000, and you Arm the DS7000, the Appliance Module it will receive a HCUC ON followed by a HCUC OFF to acknowledge the DS7000 armed (normally this would be a Lamp Module). Your valve controlling Appliance Module will turn off (since it was already on). Then if the DS7000 alarms the Appliance Module will respond to the house code ALL-OFFs that the DS7000 repeatedly sends during an alarm. Any X10 light controlling modules on the same house code will be responding to the house code repeating command of ALL LIGHTS ON and the ALL-OFF.
Dave,
Your knowledge is amazing!
In your experience, how far can a DS7000 be from a DS10 to be considered a reliable connection?
Another benefit of using the DS7000 is that when a leak is detected and the water is turned off it sounds an alarm.
The DS10 can be quickly modified to become a very effective and reliable water leak detector.
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What do you use for water detection with DS7000?
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What do you use for water detection with DS7000?
A modified DS10.
BTW I can also modify the key-chain remote and make it a leak detector.
A 3rd way is to use a wireless remote switch (non X10).
For example one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Wireless-Remote-Control-AC-Power-Outlet-Plug-Switch-/180476850934?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a054232f6
I have modified the remote into a leak detector.
My problem is that I need more remotes than switches and the DS10's are more readily available as are the key chain remotes.
However, I need to buy a DS7000 and an AM486 to use them.
In general, if I can reach the switch contacts of any remote, I can solder my leak detector across the switch and have the water leak "press" it.
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Your knowledge is amazing!
In your experience, how far can a DS7000 be from a DS10 to be considered a reliable connection?
I am X10 illiterate compared to some who frequent and/or administrate this forum.
I do not use the DS7000 but many here do and can give a better answer, but I would think the range would be similar to the range of a motion sensor and a TM751 since their transmit/receive circuitry is very similar.
I know there are several users who are using DS10s and AHP/OnAlert and CM15A for leak detection. You might be the only user trying to do it with the DS7000. Your "stop-a-leak" quest is making me paranoid about a water line bursting. :o
For your south Florida amusement. We sold a home in Coral Springs and two months later the new owner said a washer hose ruptured and flooded the whole house, and from insurance they got new carpet throughout. I was sure I had stainless steel burst proof hoses on that washer and do remember them saying they did not like the neutral colors in the home... H-m-m-m :'
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Your knowledge is amazing!
In your experience, how far can a DS7000 be from a DS10 to be considered a reliable connection?
I am X10 illiterate compared to some who frequent and/or administrate this forum.
I do not use the DS7000 but many here do and can give a better answer, but I would think the range would be similar to the range of a motion sensor and a TM751 since their transmit/receive circuitry is very similar.
I know there are several users who are using DS10s and AHP/OnAlert and CM15A for leak detection. You might be the only user trying to do it with the DS7000. Your "stop-a-leak" quest is making me paranoid about a water line bursting. :o
For your south Florida amusement. We sold a home in Coral Springs and two months later the new owner said a washer hose ruptured and flooded the whole house, and from insurance they got new carpet throughout. I was sure I had stainless steel burst proof hoses on that washer and do remember them saying they did not like the neutral colors in the home... H-m-m-m :'
If you visit www.water-on-demand.us (http://www.water-on-demand.us) I posted information about huge annual cost of house flooding.
Unless I can couple the DS10a or the key chain remote in a way cheaper than using a wireless remote switch, I will not use X10 for the leak detection.
BTW A whole house air conditioner can generate 1 gallon of water an hour.
If the condensate line gets clogged, your house can get flooded and be damaged as much as if it was a plumbing leak.
I am coming out with a $20 leak detector that will cut off the A/C compressor if a leak is detected.
Sensitive to a few drops of water, simple to install, and reusable.
PM if interested.
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BTW A whole house air conditioner can generate 1 gallon of water an hour.
If the condensate line gets clogged, your house can get flooded and be damaged as much as if it was a plumbing leak.
Paranoia just increased by 3dB. rofl
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BoyntonStu,
Could you simply use the RKR24 keyfob (which sends "normal" X10 RF signals) along with a TM751 (which is a RF receiver for "normal" X10 RF signals and has a built-in appliance module)?
Or am I missing the point?
>!
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BoyntonStu,
Could you simply use the RKR24 keyfob (which sends "normal" X10 RF signals) along with a TM751 (which is a RF receiver for "normal" X10 RF signals and has a built-in appliance module)?
Or am I missing the point?
>!
Excellent, on point advice.
The KC674 or the KR19a are battery operated and would need some simple surgery to attach my leak detector switch.
It is a perfect for an emergency and/or fun remote to control the house water.
As you drive away, turn the water OFF.
I think that I will include one in every installation.
The ac powered powerflash sender is more of a "set it and forget it" leak detector.
It has contacts that are much easier to wire than to solder into a keychain remote.
Plug them into a receptacle and place the leak detection elements all around the house; under the refrigerator, under the kitchen sink, under the HWH, under the washing machine, etc.
Any one will turn off the entire house water.
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I was just assuming that you wanted the DS10 because it was wireless.
Yeah, as far as not needing to change batteries, I'd go with the powerflash as a sender.
However, depending on your business model, some sort of service contract to come replace batteries every now and again could be beneficial too. :'
>!
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I was just assuming that you wanted the DS10 because it was wireless.
Yeah, as far as not needing to change batteries, I'd go with the powerflash as a sender.
However, depending on your business model, some sort of service contract to come replace batteries every now and again could be beneficial too. :'
>!
The MS16a's take care of the battery changing requirement.
BTW It is fairly easy to keep the memory when changing batteries.