X10 Community Forum
🔌General Home Automation => Automating Your House => Troubleshooting Automation Problems => Topic started by: olduhfguy on June 20, 2011, 08:18:01 AM
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Recently I began to have problems with devices not responding. A little testing led me to my XPCR phase coupler, which is not responding (the led) to X10 signals. After noticing it had a warm spot on the case, I opened it up to find what appears to be a 1 watt zener voltage regulator that gotten warm enough to discolor the board. What is the proper voltage that this is supposed to be regulating ? Does anyone have a schematic of the XPCR ? And yes, I have another one on order but I'd like to fix this one also. I have an isolation transformer in my shop so I can safely test the unit, thanks !
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I have not seen any data on the XPCR but will see if I can find something.
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Recently I began to have problems with devices not responding. A little testing led me to my XPCR phase coupler, which is not responding (the led) to X10 signals. After noticing it had a warm spot on the case, I opened it up to find what appears to be a 1 watt zener voltage regulator that gotten warm enough to discolor the board. What is the proper voltage that this is supposed to be regulating ? Does anyone have a schematic of the XPCR ? And yes, I have another one on order but I'd like to fix this one also. I have an isolation transformer in my shop so I can safely test the unit, thanks !
If the LED don't blink...she is busted. What about the load resister for the zener, does it still have continuity?
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I took an XPCR apart.
There are three fuse wires. One for each of the Line Inputs.
Red to Neutral is the one powering the unit.
I would also check the 22 Ohm 1/2W resistor along with the small 100uh L1 choke.
Check the diodes in the power supply as one of them shunts the reverse voltage from the other half of the AC waveform to Neutral. If it is shorted you would also get no DC power.
I could not read the whole part number on the diode. I have 1N536?
I did open an older Leviton 6201 that has what looks like the same two PC Boards in it.
It has a 1N5361B and I believe it is a 27 volt 5 watt.
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The zener (27v) checks OK. It looks like DC power is supplied through the red wire via fuse, then capacitor, then rectifiers and finally via the 27v 5w zener. This all seems OK. The zener gets hot enough to eventually discolor the board, apparently this is normal since the new unit does it too. By the way I am using an isolation transformer. :-) from there it goes to the main board and that is where the problems begin. There is a 2SD567 transistor that seems to be getting rather warm. A schematic would be real helpful about now - the replacement unit works fine BTW. Also on an interesting note, the first replacement did not work either (no LED activity) but the 2nd unit did. I have heard about people questioning the reliability of these units so somebody must have a print somewhere, I hope !
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If it was the 2SD667. It probably would be the power line transmitter output. Seems when x10 finds a part they like. It shows up all over the place.
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I can believe that - I see at least 3 of them in the unit. When I get some time I'll take another look. I hate blind troubleshooting. :(
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$0.02
These doobers are less than 20 bucks with shipping, off Ebay. Unless you have well stocked junk box, you will (or have) spend that in parts and time.
Yeah, yeah, I know, if me I would be trying to fix it also.
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The XPCR's are so cheap that fixing one may cost more than to buy a new one.
You can view them in my store at: http://www.thex10shop.com/product/x10-pro-xpcr-home-automation-coupler-repeater-signal-booster
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I also have a failed XPCR. I think my system was hit by lightening. I had a failed Command Console also. I have repaired the Command Console.
I have one of the XTBM monitors and it's reporting high noise when the XPCR is connected. I'm also looking for a schematic. I have reversed engineered a lot of various X10 modules but this thing is probably not worth the time I would need to spend to generate a schematic. If I find a schematic, I will post the location for download.
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If you are going to replace the XPCR, I highly recommend going with Jeff Volp's XTB-IIR.
You already have an XTBM, so you know that he has developed really high-quality stuff.
The XTB-IIR is the best you can do in terms of a coupler/repeater.
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I agree on the quality of Jeff's products. I need to look at where I would install the XTB-IIR. I had the XPCR in the breaker panel, which is not per code. I plan to design a passive coupler and try that first, however I will not be installing anything in the breaker panel. At present, I,m getting very healthy reading of X10 signal strength throughout the house on one phase but virtually no signal on the other side. I have a few in-line filters to isolate those signal suckers. The home theater has one and the solar water heating system controller has another. I may need to install a few more in-line filters. Our biggest challenge now and in the future is replacement lamps for our incandescent bulbs. CCFLs are mostly non-dim-able and generate noise that interferes with X10. Not to mention the higher than advertised failure rates and the hazardous material problem. LEDs may be the answer if the price comes down a lot more. LEDs can loose up to 30% of their light output (lumens) in 10 years of service. What lamp technology will be used in our refrigerators and ovens? Not CCFL or LED.
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Here's what I did (mostly my own design, with some input from Jeff):
I installed a new double-gang breaker, which gave me access to both phases. I ran a 12/3 line from the new breakers to a junction box that I mounted right near the breaker box.
In that box, I installed a regular duplex outlet, but I split-wired it (top to one phase, bottom to the other). I also installed a 240V socket, connected to both "HOT" lines.
Per Jeff's recommendation, I wired a short length of wire to the XTB-IIR, and terminated that with a matching 240V plug. That gave me an easy way to disconnect the XTB-IIR for testing.
Since Home Depot didn't have a cover plate that matched what I needed (duplex outlet on one side, single round outlet on the other), I made my own by cutting a large round hole in a Duplex outlet/single toggle switch cover plate. the screw holes line up for that.
I now have a dedicated "test" station, adjacent to the breaker box, where I can plug in a signal meter (if I had one), or where my dad (an EE) can plug in the fancy setup he made with his oscilloscope (using Ido Bartana's plans), to look at noise and signal strength.
I can look at both phases separately, with and without the XTB-IIR connected. I can plug a transmitter (CM15A or RR501) in at one of those outlets (I might need a short extension cord for clearance), and look at signal propagation.
One other benefit of this test station is that the only thing plugged into those two circuits are the XTB-IIR, the CM15A (plugged into the XTB-IIR), and any test equipment. I can shut down EVERYTHING else in the house if I need to, to try and track down noise. Before, I could shut down most things, but I needed to leave the circuit with the CM15A on, and unplug everything else from it.
Since I installed the XTB-IIR to try and solve an issue I was having (which it actually couldn't solve - turns out I just needed to buy my neighbor a new $7 CFL bulb), I used the test station a whole lot at the beginning. However, it doesn't get much use these days (well, the XTB-IIR outlet does, the other two don't).
One of my earlier thoughts with this whole setup (before I made the decision to get the XTB-IIR), was to remove the capacitor I have that is bridging the two phases in my A/C compressor disconnect box, and wire it to a matching 220V plug, so I could plug it in close to the breaker box. It sits (Jeff said I didn't need to remove it when I installed the XTB-IIR) inside the A/C disconnect box (because that was a convenient place to mount it, that had access to 220V, and I could shut the entire box down at the breaker to work on it much more safely), which is nearly 50 feet from the breaker box. Considering signals had to travel through an extra 100ft of wire (50 there, and 50 back to the breaker box) when crossing between the two phases, I thought perhaps moving the capacitor would fix my issue (it wouldn't have).
Sorry for the long (and not all that well organized) post.
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Once upon a time, I had a 1uf cap installed from line to line in the breaker panel. I used a 1uf 500v polycarbonate capacitor because they have very low series inductance. It worked OK but because I didn't have room for adding breakers, I had the cap connected line to line on an existing 15 amp lighting breaker set. The problem with doing this is if you open one of these breakers to work on the wiring at a light fixture, you would find the circuit was still hot via the 1uf cap. I may try to install the 1uf line to line in the kitchen range circuit which is supplied by a mechanically bridged breaker. I will put the cap inside a metal enclosure behind, beside or under the unit and include a 1A fuse in the box in case the cap fails. It's simple, but in my case it was effective.
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CCFLs are mostly non-dim-able...
This dims to 0% although it's a bit flaky.
- http://www.lightbulbsdirect.com/page/001/PROD/CFDimSpiral/24514-ADIM
The flakiness may be because I did not see the fine print on the box (that says to turn it on at 100% for a few hours the first time it's used before trying to dim it) until it was too late. No noise, so far.
I haven't tried these, which only dim to 2%.
- http://www.bowmanlamps.com/trudim-dimmable-cfl-trudim-alamp-c-55_79_82.html?zenid=43920a3ajd8n0dhesij9c04s47
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Once upon a time, I had a 1uf cap installed from line to line in the breaker panel. I used a 1uf 500v polycarbonate capacitor because they have very low series inductance. It worked OK but because I didn't have room for adding breakers, I had the cap connected line to line on an existing 15 amp lighting breaker set. The problem with doing this is if you open one of these breakers to work on the wiring at a light fixture, you would find the circuit was still hot via the 1uf cap. I may try to install the 1uf line to line in the kitchen range circuit which is supplied by a mechanically bridged breaker. I will put the cap inside a metal enclosure behind, beside or under the unit and include a 1A fuse in the box in case the cap fails. It's simple, but in my case it was effective.
That's just about the same reason I installed mine in my A/C disconnect box.
I was out of room for breakers (I've since had a heavy-up done, so I now have more room for expansion). I also didn't feel comfortable installing the capacitor inside the breaker box. It was too cramped, and I was worried of something going wrong. I was able to turn off the double-pole breaker for the A/C (at the breaker box), and be comfortable that the 220V, two phase line going to that disconnect box was dead, too.
The capacitor was installed long before I ever got the XTB-IIR, and had actually fixed MOST of my signal issues. I have a feeling that more of my issues would have been solved by moving both the capacitor and my CM15A closer to the breaker box, ensuring a shorter signal path all around. I've had the XTB-IIR for over a year now, and I know the capacitor isn't needed anymore. However, Jeff said there was no harm in leaving it in place, and I don't really want to mess with that disconnect box if I don't have to.
Instead of installing the capacitor behind the range, you might consider tapping into the line as it exits the breaker box.
You could pull the cable going to the range out of the breaker and the box, and run it into a separate junction box, and then install a shorter cable from that junction box to the breaker box and into the breaker. You would then install the capacitor (fused, as you suggested) in that bow, where you join the two cables together.
That would give you a place close to the breaker box (and the center of the "star" topology of your home's electrical layout) where you would be bridging the signals, yet still have the ability to disconnect it with a mechanically ganged double breaker.
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When I wrote CCFL, I of coarse should have written CFL. My mind was on another project repairing a LCD with a CCFL backlight display. This topic may actually belong under a different forum subject
I picked up a 100W (equivalent) dim-able CFL for under $10 at BigLots today. I don't have the lamp with me at the moment and can therefor not report the make and model at this time. The package had warnings stating that the life of the lamp would be shortened by dimming the lamp. So I installed it in a light socket controlled by an older two wire X10 light switch. To my surprise, the lamp do not strobe with the X10 Switch off. I was able to turn the CFL on and off from the wall switch, however the X10 wall switch module would not respond to any commands sent from the command module. I don't think CFLs will ever be the best lamp to buy if dimming is important. At the same store, I saw a CFL that clearly stated in bold print that it was for outdoor use. Reading the fine print, I found a statement that said the warranty would be voided if the lamp was used outdoors. But then, who am I to question this discrepancy, I'm not a lawyer? "I are engineer"
Don
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They do make CCFL light bulbs for replacing incandescent bulbs.
I have a few to test and they do dim fine, but not with a 2 wire X10 wall switch.
LM465s, three wire dimmers like Insteon and Icon do work with them.
Though as mentioned. Make X10 noise and the MicroBrites I had actually spewed an RF signal that got into my XTBM [had to be very close] causing a reading. I sent Jeff one to observe.
Also mine had a design problem. Seems they had a knack to work for a few months, then go On and Off as they warmed up.
Specialty bulbs like refrigerator and oven use. Are exempt [for now] from the effency regulations.
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Here is the schematic of a passive coupler that I built today. It can also be used as a coupler for an oscilloscope input. A second winding on the inductor would provide an isolated source for the oscilloscope.