X10 Community Forum
🔌General Home Automation => Automating Your House => Troubleshooting Automation Problems => Topic started by: bkenobi on January 17, 2012, 01:36:32 PM
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I have a Powerflash module installed with a motion sensor at the front of my garage. The setup has worked fine over the last few months, but I'm noticing issues with the setup. The sensor sees movement, triggers a relay, activates the reed switch on the PF which sends the "ON" command. The sensor is in "Test" mode, so it does not stay on for any duration and works both day and night. After ~5 seconds, the sensor goes off, releases the relay, releases the reed switch on the PF, and the PF sends "OFF". For some reason, I'm not getting every "ON" or "OFF" command at the CM15A (nothing in the AHP log). I know that the motion sensor is going on/off because I have a light bulb installed as an indicator inside the garage. I have tested the continuity on the relay and it's correctly actuating and releasing. I have tested with a different PF module, so I don't think that it's a PF issue, but that seems to be the best place to look.
I am using a custom code written in AutoHotKey to control this motion sensor via the SDK. I have saved logs of script variable values as well as X10 commands sent/received. I can see that the sensor seems to be working fine generally, but it does have issues once in a while.
So, what do I do now? I don't have access to an X10 signal tester (which was my first thought). I thought that with the Arduino and other proto boards out there, I could perhaps build something to interface with a laptop, but I don't know where to get started. I see that there's a user here that has a unit he built, but for an assembled unit, it's a bit pricey. Granted that it's a LOT less than the professionally built units, but still a bit steep if this is my only use for it (hopefully).
Any suggestions? I'm open to any thoughts on how to fix this at this point. I guess I could rip it out and go with an X10 sensor, but the whole point was to increase the range and angle over what X10 sells.
B:(
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It sounds to me like a signal/noise issue on the circuit somewhere in your house.
It is possible that something in your home is creating signal-blocking noise, or might just be absorbing enough of the signal to prevent it from getting to the CM15A.
Have you plugged in anything new recently?
Have you installed or replaced any CFL or LED light bulbs?
Is the CM15A on the same phase as the PowerFlash, or are the on opposite phases?
Do you have any signal-bridge devices in your setup at all?
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My fear is that the new electric furnace/heat pump is causing these issues. I had that installed in December and that's around the time that I started NOTICING the issue. I don't know if this has been going on for longer than that though. I did just have a CFL burn out last night, but when I removed it, the issue is still present.
Is there any way to filter noise off a furnace? The unit is on 220 and draws LOTS of power when starting the HP or running the electric strip heater. Perhaps I should note that I have noticed a spike in power when the furnace turns on which flickers the lights slightly. The installer didn't seem interested in hearing about it, so I sorta let it pass since it's a transient thing.
My initial thought was that I need to figure out a way to reliably fail the motion sensor so that I can test things. Once I know where it's failing, I can know why and hopefully how to fix it. I really didn't want to spend the $100-200 on a DIY signal tester or $300+ for a pro model. I was hoping this would be a one time thing where I won't need it once I get things fixed.
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Here's an example of the log of PF module actions:
1/16/12 07:16:19 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, On, , ,
1/16/12 07:17:02 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, Off, , ,
1/16/12 07:21:42 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, Off, , ,
1/16/12 13:11:38 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, On, , ,
1/16/12 13:12:07 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, Off, , ,
1/16/12 13:13:39 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, On, , ,
1/16/12 13:14:30 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, Off, , ,
1/16/12 13:16:32 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, On, , ,
1/16/12 13:17:05 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, Off, , ,
1/16/12 13:19:33 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, On, , ,
1/16/12 18:10:43 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, Off, , ,
1/16/12 18:18:57 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, On, , ,
1/16/12 18:19:50 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, Off, , ,
1/16/12 18:40:10 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, On, , ,
1/16/12 18:40:47 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, On, , ,
1/16/12 23:49:25 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, On, , ,
1/16/12 23:49:29 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, Off, , ,
1/17/12 01:02:01 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, On, , ,
1/17/12 01:02:04 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, Off, , ,
1/17/12 01:53:31 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, On, , ,
1/17/12 01:53:35 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, Off, , ,
1/17/12 03:20:21 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, On, , ,
1/17/12 03:20:24 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, Off, , ,
1/17/12 05:02:22 RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, On, , ,
Based on how this is set up, every on MUST be followed by an off. Any time there is a mismatched pair, there was an issue with the setup. As such, my initial statement that it's working mostly okay is obviously WRONG!
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Is there any way to filter noise off a furnace? The unit is on 220 and draws LOTS of power
It may be the control board creating noise and not the high current HP or electric furnace. If so you might be able to filter the power to only that board with an inline filter. I had to do that on an old Lenox Pulse unit. Obviously voiding your warranty would be a prime consideration.
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I'll have to figure out if this is an issue with the HP or the main unit (assuming that's the source). I would first have to figure out when each is turned on. Actually, I can say for sure that the HP is NOT the source since it's covered with several inches of snow today. So, this is either because the furnace needs a filter, or there is an issue with how it's installed/set up. I talked to the supplier yesterday and they mentioned that the installer could have set things up such that the furnace is "back powering" the HP. I'm not sure what that means, but it sounds like a potential source of noise.
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You mentioned that you know the PF is working, because you have a light in the same room, and it always works. I'm assuming it is on a lamp (or appliance) module, and set to the same code as the PF.
Have you tried moving that to the same location as the CM15A, and seeing what happens? If the signal is having trouble getting through, then I would think the lamp would have trouble if it is located in the same place as the CM15A (although different devices have different signal thresholds of what they can hear).
The blower motor might be capable of putting out lots of noise, too.
As a test, you might want to try turning off the furnace (at the breaker), and seeing if you can replicate the problem.
If you can't, then turn the furnace back on, and then test again. You'll probably need to test both with the system on (but idle), and also with it running.
The problem of a weak signal path from the PowerFlash to the CM15A might be remedied in other ways, as well.
If they are on separate phases, you might try moving one of them to another phase, and see if that helps. You might need to extend the wires from the motion sensor to the PF to be able to move it, but that is probably easier than re-wiring the 110V in the house (especially if you only do it temporarily as a test).
Without a signal bridge, the signals generally have to travel out to the pole transformer and back to get from one phase to the other. That can seriously reduce signal strength. There are a number of ways to bridge both phases in your home. If you have a electric clothes dryer, there is a simple-to-install plug-in signal bridge, that plugs into the 220V outlet, and has a pass-through for the dryer to plug into.
As a test, you can try turning on your electric dryer, and see if the problem goes away when the dryer is running (it acts as a signal bridge to cross the signals from one phase to the other).
I have Jeff Volp's XTB-IIR, which is certainly more expensive than the plug-in coupler. For me, however, it was worth the money.
Another possibility is that the new furnace/heat pump isn't the only cause, but rather a "straw that broke the camel's back" type of thing. You might have other noise-generating devices in your home (computer power supplies and cell-phone chargers are big ones), and the combined noise of those things AND the new furnace is just too much.
Since the problem seems to be intermittent (some signals get through, others don't), that might point to something that isn't always on (like a furnace that cycles on and off throughout the day).
You could try to do a "breaker-box test", where you selectively turn off one breaker at a time, and see if you can find the breaker that contains the noisy device(s).
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I didn't do a very good job of answering the original questions about my setup. I'll add on so that it is more clear.
I have a 4000 sqft home that I'm working with. When I moved in, all of the X10 was done via TM751 units. I got rid of those and installed a CM15A with an upgraded antenna (posted in another thread) and a XPCR phase coupler-repeater. I am able to send/receive signals to/from the shop which is 150ft away from the house to control lights without issue. I have several ActiveEye motion sensors that control a couple exterior lights and those seem to work fine (though the battery life is apparently not all that great when deer keep tripping them).
I also have a motion sensor set up for my garage/front door lights. This is area I'm worried about right now (and the only one I'm currently noticing issues with). The schematic is attached to show how I have things set up. The motion sensor is a Zenith 5716 which is hardwired to power. In order for this unit to work, it must be connected to a 40W+ resistive type light bulb, so I installed it inside the garage to act as an indicator that the sensor has been tripped. I originally was going to swap it out for a resistor of appropriate size, but I couldn't figure out the right resistance and it's nice to know it's working anyway. The output of the sensor is a switched 120VAC line. Since the PF can't take that, I use an AC relay to trip a NO contact. The motion sensor is in test mode so it will work all day/night and it releases quickly. This allows me to use it with a chime to tell me if there's motion any time of day and turn lights on at night.
As can be seen in the log from my previous post, the setup seems to be losing commands. I don't know how long this has been an issue, but I only noticed it at the end of December which corresponds to when I got my new furnace/HP installed.
Based on your suggestions, I think the best bet is to trip the motion sensor repeatedly with the furnace on to make sure I see missing signals. If so, I'll turn off the furnace at the panel and repeat. If I don't see problems, it could be the furnace on its own, or it could be other things AND the furnace.
For reference, I did find a power strip that caused an issue in one location (where I was going to use a lamp module with a xmas tree). I did not remove that, so that's probably a better first step! I'll review this thread and will also post results as I can get them figured out.
Thanks!
PS, I wonder how my wife would feel about turning the furnace off tonight...with a major snow storm coming through. rofl
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Yes a 40 watt light bulb is better than a 360 Ohm 40 watt resistor and easier to find.
May not be easy to tell, but when the On is missed does the chime also not sound.
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I didn't do a very good job of answering the original questions about my setup. I'll add on so that it is more clear.
I have a 4000 sqft home that I'm working with. When I moved in, all of the X10 was done via TM751 units. I got rid of those and installed a CM15A with an upgraded antenna (posted in another thread) and a XPCR phase coupler-repeater. I am able to send/receive signals to/from the shop which is 150ft away from the house to control lights without issue. I have several ActiveEye motion sensors that control a couple exterior lights and those seem to work fine (though the battery life is apparently not all that great when deer keep tripping them).
I also have a motion sensor set up for my garage/front door lights. This is area I'm worried about right now (and the only one I'm currently noticing issues with). The schematic is attached to show how I have things set up. The motion sensor is a Zenith 5716 which is hardwired to power. In order for this unit to work, it must be connected to a 40W+ resistive type light bulb, so I installed it inside the garage to act as an indicator that the sensor has been tripped. I originally was going to swap it out for a resistor of appropriate size, but I couldn't figure out the right resistance and it's nice to know it's working anyway. The output of the sensor is a switched 120VAC line. Since the PF can't take that, I use an AC relay to trip a NO contact. The motion sensor is in test mode so it will work all day/night and it releases quickly. This allows me to use it with a chime to tell me if there's motion any time of day and turn lights on at night.
With the size of your house I would definitely look into an xtbr I also have a big house like yours 5000+ sqft as well as a 4 car garage that I run on all x10. I was running the XPCR and had huge issues with signal and noise issues. I installed Jeff Vlops Xtbr and also the XTB-ANR which really helps with the noise issues and my system went from troubled to reliable over night. If you have alot of noise issues the XTB-ANR will help with this issue extensively.
>! Ken
As can be seen in the log from my previous post, the setup seems to be losing commands. I don't know how long this has been an issue, but I only noticed it at the end of December which corresponds to when I got my new furnace/HP installed.
Based on your suggestions, I think the best bet is to trip the motion sensor repeatedly with the furnace on to make sure I see missing signals. If so, I'll turn off the furnace at the panel and repeat. If I don't see problems, it could be the furnace on its own, or it could be other things AND the furnace.
For reference, I did find a power strip that caused an issue in one location (where I was going to use a lamp module with a xmas tree). I did not remove that, so that's probably a better first step! I'll review this thread and will also post results as I can get them figured out.
Thanks!
PS, I wonder how my wife would feel about turning the furnace off tonight...with a major snow storm coming through. rofl
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No, the chime does not work either. I dug out a socket rocket and put it in the garage in a lamp. I did not see any issues with the motion sensor with the testing this evening.
I then moved the PF module to the same socket I had issues with for the xmas tree lights. Turns out that the surge protector was an issue in blocking signals. But, interestingly, so is the laptop power supply. I'm not sure how to deal with that one other than getting a few filters. Looks like I need to go around and see what does and does not block signals around the house. I wish I could rent an X10 signal analyzer, but I don't think anyone does installs locally.
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Chances are the surge protector is a "signal sucker," and the power supply is a "noise generator."
Each interferes with your X10 signals in different ways, but the end result is the same - the device is not able to properly detect the signals on the line.
Yes, filters are probably in your future. I've had good luck with the SmartHome FilterLinc ones (I don't have any experience with the X10 ones, but I hear they can get warm and start to smoke if they are pushed close to their rated limits).
I keep telling myself that I'll buy an XTBM the next time I run into problems. From what I've read, it really is a very useful tool, and well-worth the money (from what others have said about it). I have an XTB-IIR, and I know that Jeff does very high-quality work, and puts a lot of thought into the products he creates.
For now, it sounds like you have at least *some* method for testing. Just like you found the problematic surge protector and power supply, you can test each device the same way, and see what causes a lot of noise and what doesn't. It isn't the same as having a meter to give you actual numbers, but it is much less expensive.
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I think I may have found the problem based on my findings yesterday. I have found that my UPS (APC BackUPS 725ES) which I have been using with my main desktop machine and the file server is dramatically underrated for what I've been using it for. The battery is dead, but I think it's causing noise/signal sucker issues. What makes this one so bad? Well, it's in the outlet right next to the CM15A. I'm going to have to figure something out, but my guess is I'll be getting a set of filters for at least those 2 locations.
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I bet that is a big issue. I find that the UPS in my house not only created line noise but it also seemed to amplify the line noise from the PC. In my testing if I had just the UPS plugged in it would cause intermittent issues but then when I connected the PC it completely crushed my x10 setup. I added a plug in filter and the xtb-anr I mentioned In my last post and I haven't had noise issues since :)% I would recommend giving that a try,
>! Ken
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I'm looking at picking up a 1500VA UPS from Fry's tomorrow (assuming the come back in stock). I'll have to get a filter as well, but hopefully the new UPS will at least make things less bad?
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I have a filter on each of my three UPSes (a Belkin 1500VA, and two APC 650's).
I don't have one on my FIOS power supply, because that never seemed to cause any problems for my setup.
I never tested the APCs without the filters (one replaced an older Belkin whose battery finally gave out after a few years), but it doesn't hurt me to use them, since I already have the filters.
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I'm looking at getting a 1500VA unit. According to the specs, it's capable of supplying up to 900W. If my calculations are correct, 900W @ 120V = 5.4A. So, if I were to max out the UPS, I would be exceeding the 5A X10 plug-in filter. I suppose that means I need to go with one of the higher rated units such as a 10A FilterLinc (as was already suggested). Of course, the price on these has gone way up in the last few months. I believe they were under $10/ea mid-2011. As of this morning, the cheapest prices are 50-100% more (plus shipping). If I go that far, I'll just get the filterlinc for ~$30.
These prices are not an issue for one, but to deploy them en mass around the house could get pricey!
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I have a 10 Amp Smarthome FilterLinc on my APC BX1000 UPS and the unfiltered pass through outlet has my automation interace in it.
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These prices are not an issue for one, but to deploy them en mass around the house could get pricey!
You might be able to get away with filtering the one or two worst offenders, and that might eliminate enough of the problem that the rest of the system works.
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I'm looking at getting a 1500VA unit. According to the specs, it's capable of supplying up to 900W. If my calculations are correct, 900W @ 120V = 5.4A.
900W is 7.5A at 120V. And you have to allow for the charging current. My 2200VA SmartUPS can pull almost 20A at max load while charging the batteries. I used the 20A XPF filter.
Jeff
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Ok, that might be a better way to go then. I think I'll get a power box from a hardware store and install an outlet into the top and a power cord to the wall. Then I can plug the UPS into a filtered outlet and have an unfiltered available if needed. Either way, it should be cheaper than buying one of the plug in units (albeit not as fancy looking).
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FWIW, I know that I'll never see 20A from my UPS in any state since the system is located on a 15A circuit. But, having the filter over sized is not going to hurt anything. I ordered one from my usual ebayer and it should be here early next week. Hopefully this will reduce the issues I'm having.
I can't test anything at the moment anyway since we lost power due to the massive storms that came through the Seattle area the last couple days. With any luck, we'll be back up this evening when I get home.
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I set up both my file server and desktop to running on the new UPS yesterday. Idle loads are VERY small (~150W between the 2 systems). I don't know what they are when both are cranking, but that's not something I'll be doing much if ever. We had an "opportunity" to test out the motion sensor last night since we had a pretty decent wind storm come through. I now have a record of 800 on/off commands sent by the motion sensor in a 22 hour period (most were within 11 hours during the storm). I have a socket rocket in a test lamp set to the same HU as the motion sensor's PF module so I have a visual indication of what's going on without having to monitor a log. I did not notice any instance of the light being stuck in the on position, but with so many triggers, that's not unexpected.
I can deduce at least 2 things from this data.
1) I need to adjust the aim of the sensor to see if I can reduce the number of trips or else I'll be replacing the components (relay, PF, light bulbs, etc) much sooner than anticipated depending on the amount of wind seen.
2) The majority of these signals were matched (on - off). Of the 800 signals, I have a 50 that were unmatched (meaning I missed 50 commands or 6%).
I was thinking I wouldn't need the XPF that showed up Monday, but after reviewing this data, it looks like there may be enough missed commands that it would be a good idea to set it up to see if it helps. I am going to build a box and make it all nice, but for now I think I'll just use wire nuts and an outlet to get it going for testing. If that corrects the problem (fingers crossed), then I'll clean the installation up real nice!
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A little update...
I still see some issues with the light control, but I'm starting to wonder if part of the problem is the PF sending Extended Codes sometimes. Here's an excerpt from my AHP log:
Event Date/Time Action Data
0 1/25/2012 5:12:59 PM Transmit O3 Extended Code 3e 31 - Preset receiver operation (Garage Front (Motion Sensor))
1 1/25/2012 5:13:03 PM Transmit O3 (Garage Front (Motion Sensor))
2 1/25/2012 5:13:03 PM Transmit O Off (Garage Front (Motion Sensor))
3 1/25/2012 5:15:10 PM Transmit O3 Extended Code 3e 31 - Preset receiver operation (Garage Front (Motion Sensor))
4 1/25/2012 5:15:16 PM Transmit O3 (Garage Front (Motion Sensor))
5 1/25/2012 5:15:17 PM Transmit O Off (Garage Front (Motion Sensor))
6 1/25/2012 5:17:08 PM Transmit O3 (Garage Front (Motion Sensor))
7 1/25/2012 5:17:08 PM Transmit O On (Garage Front (Motion Sensor))
8 1/25/2012 5:17:14 PM Transmit O3 (Garage Front (Motion Sensor))
9 1/25/2012 5:17:14 PM Transmit O Off (Garage Front (Motion Sensor))
As you can see, the "O3 Off" is not matched with an "O3 On" every time. However, if the Extended Code means "On", then it may be working correctly. Does anyone understand the ExtCodes enough to help decipher what this one means? AHP reports the code as
O3 Extended Code 3e 31 - Preset receiver operationBut my code receives the following using the SDK
RecvPlc, o3, ExtCode, 49, 62,
If I understood what "3e 31" or "49, 62" meant, then I could simply add that as something for my code to look for.
Thanks! >!
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Looking further down my log, I may be chasing an issue that's noise related. I see the following in AHP:
181 1/26/2012 5:12:56 AM Receive O3 (Garage Front (Motion Sensor))
182 1/26/2012 5:12:56 AM Receive O On (Garage Front (Motion Sensor))
183 1/26/2012 5:12:56 AM Transmit A6 (Entry Lights)
184 1/26/2012 5:12:57 AM Transmit A On (Entry Lights)
185 1/26/2012 5:12:57 AM Transmit B1 (chime)
186 1/26/2012 5:12:58 AM Transmit B On (chime)
187 1/26/2012 5:12:59 AM Receive O3 (Garage Front (Motion Sensor))
188 1/26/2012 5:30:18 AM Macro A7 (Cabinet Lights)
189 1/26/2012 5:30:18 AM Macro A Bright 100(Cabinet Lights)
This appears as follows in my code's log:
RecvAction: RecvPlc, o3, On, , ,
RecvAction: RecvPlc, a6, On, , ,
RecvAction: RecvPlc, b1, On, , ,
RecvAction: RecvPlc, a7, Bright, 100, ,
Is it possible that there's some noise/signal sucker on the line that damages or destroys the signal? I know signals can be damaged and destroyed such that they are invalid (based on reading other threads), but can a signal be damaged but still interpreted as valid (such as an ExtCode)? This probably relates to what the unknown code means (as posited at the end of my last post).
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Is A7 a Soft Start style device?
It looks like an extended command for a soft start device is being sent.
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As far as I know, a PowerFlash cannot send Extended commands.
Since those are all "Transmit" entries, I think they are all coming from within AHP and the CM15A, not from the PowerFlash.
The "Extended Code 3e 31" is a "turn on a full brightness" Extended command. Those are the hex values. The SDK reports the decimal values 49 and 62.
What version of AHP are you running?
What is module O3 defined as in AHP?
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I just found the same info in another post regarding 3e 31 by searching for "Preset receiver operation".
http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=22034.15;wap2
I believe I'm running the latest version of AHP (3.318?).
A7 is several older 2 plug lamp modules. They are not soft start and are set that way in AHP AFAIK (something I should check though, thanks for pointing that out).
The PF module is set to O3 and is defined as a Powerflash in AHP. I originally had it set up as a motion sensor (a while back), but last month I noticed the PF item under the PRO modules, so I set it up that way. Perhaps I should try something different, but I'm not sure what else would work. 2-way appliance module (AM14A)? Back to a motion sensor? I didn't like using the motion sensor because I can't see the on/off state in AHP (and it's not really a motion sensor).
At this point, I feel like this is most likely an AHP related issue, so you guys are definitely helping get this close to a resolution! I'll post an update this evening when I can check my setup.
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If you have 3.318, there are two different sets of modules, Lamps, which are for Soft-Start modules and Older Lamps (no SoftStart) for older modules.
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Yup, I'm aware of that. I have some of each, so I'll have to see what I have set up right now. I believe that I manually switched all of the WS467 units over, but I bet I didn't look at the lamp module units since I didn't realize they also had soft-start equivalents. I suspect I just didn't update them correctly.
As for the Powerflash, I'll have to try using something else to see if the ExtCodes disappear.
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PowerFlash should not be able to send any Extended X10 codes. I don't think it has that feature in its firmware.
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I didn't think so. So, it's either AHP interpreting them wrong for some reason, or interference of some kind damaging them before AHP gets to them. I wish there was a way to figure this out better since I'm left changing a setting and waiting for enough signals to be transmitted to see an issue or not. I suppose that's where getting a signal meter comes into play.
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I lied apparently. I think I tried setting the PF module up as a Universal module (due to the picture probably) and found that it didn't work. I currently have it set up as a 2-way appliance module. I'm going to see what else it can be set up as since it appears there's nothing else that looks good and doesn't have extended codes. I suppose I can ignore it in AHP and simply let the input pass through to my code (which did seem to work the 1 time I tried it just now).
As for the non-soft start lamp modules, they were set as such (non-SS lamp module). But, when I went in to edit the module, it was showing the wrong picture. I can't say that had anything to do with it, but I now have it displaying the right picture and it is sending "A On" rather than "A Bright 100%". Oh, and I do not have the item selected in the preferences to send "On" instead of "Bright 100%" for macros.
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The Powerflash module is not in AHP as the Powerflash can not receive power line signals to control it.
It is a sender only and you may do better just using the On and Off power line signals it sends to trigger things in AHP.
Trying to define it in AHP maybe the problem. As most devices in AHP are sent power line signals and not expected to send power line signal back.
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The Powerflash module is not in AHP as the Powerflash can not receive power line signals to control it.
It is a sender only and you may do better just using the On and Off power line signals it sends to trigger things in AHP.
Trying to define it in AHP maybe the problem. As most devices in AHP are sent power line signals and not expected to send power line signal back.
I'll echo what Brian said.
As far as I know, with the exception of motion sensors, all of the devices that are available to pick on AHP are devices that can receive a signal. My theory is that the motion sensors are in there to allow you to name them and use that for monitoring through the Activity Monitor.
Since the PowerFlash can only send a signal, there is no reason to list it in AHP. You can't list any of the wired or wireless remotes, either.
AHP and the CM15A don't know what type of device is sending those commands on the powerline, and they don't really care.
Unless you have something else on the same HC/UC as the PowerFlash (like a lamp that it directly controls), there is no need to have it in AHP at all.
If you want to be able to view the status of it in AHP easily, you can create a "dummy" appliance module (one-way) on the same HC/UC.
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I understand what you are saying in regards to AHP having no need to list items it can't control. However, there are several items in the module list (other than motion sensors) that AHP can't do anything with. I looked in there yesterday and found several camera palm pad controllers and the like which don't seem to be needed either. I primarily had it there so I could have a visual indication to what's being triggered in the AHP interface, but I also thought it might be needed for the SDK to send the commands through. Since it is not, there's really no need to list it.
Oh, and I like having the motion sensors in there so I can see what's been triggered with a name attached in the list. It also helps plan a system because they show up in the "find computers" list (btw, shouldn't that be named "find modules"?). In that regard, I don't think they are useless. If there is a menu available to show you what HU are in use, then it should be possible to name that item IMO.
I checked the logs this morning and it appears that the motion sensor worked just fine last night. There were significantly fewer triggers last night, so adjusting the aim of the sensor does seem to have helped as well. As for the A7 modules, I just realized that the reason they send a "Bright 100%" command is that they are triggered by a macro and by default macros send that instead of "On". I posted that earlier but it didn't connect in my head as to what it really meant. ;D
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I didn't see any of the remotes, but I don't have the video plugin activated on this machine.
I agree that it is helpful to list the motion sensors, to be able to see where a command is coming from, and what HC/UC are in use (although if you have a macro on one of those codes, it will be listed in the "find other computers" screen).
As I suggested earlier, you can monitor the status of the Powerflash with a simple "dummy" appliance module (a one-way, not a two-way), set to the same HC/UC as the Powerflash. Call it "PowerFlash" if you want. When those codes come in, it should turn on and off (on screen), and you'll see it listed as a receive code in the Activity Monitor.
However, whatever you are triggering with that HC/UC will also be listed, so adding the appliance module might be overkill. That's you to decide.
One other thing (and it is listed in the Bug List - see my signature for the link): Currently, the SDK will "translate" outgoing old-fashioned "on" commands into "Extended Dim" commands for lights which are defined in AHP as SoftStart capable modules. I ran into this myself. I was using AHCMD to send something like "C5 On", and it was actually sending "C5 ExtCode 31 3f" (Which is the Extended Dim version of "turn on at 100% immediately - without SoftStart). When I changed the module definition in AHP to an "old" style lamp, it started sending the correct "On" command (as I recall, at least).
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Interesting info about the bug. I was concerned initially that not having the PF in AHP would be an issue. Once I realized it would still send the command through without processing it, I started to get concerned what module would not mess with the signal on the way by. I have a bunch of dummy modules I use for seeing flags on the interface. I may try adding one for the PF if the current setup does continue to perform correctly.
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I came home on Saturday and found the lights turned on. This is the reason I was initially investigating this in the first place, so it appeared that things were still AFU. Well, after reviewing the log and the code, I found a small bug on my end. It looks like if there is motion just before dawn, the code would turn off the motion delay timer and the lights, but it neglected to disable a key flag I use to designate whether the motion delay is enabled. As such, when the CM15A told my code that it was dusk, the code would think the motion delay was still on and turn the lights back on. Since there was no motion, it would leave the lights on until there was motion and then it would turn them off after the motion delay expired.
So, one seemingly innocuous line of code caused me to go through all this. B:(
Meh, it did force me to do a really thorough review of ALL of the code and the entire hardware setup. So, it's not all bad, but I think the WAF for the project on a whole may have slipped slightly. :'
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So was that one misplaced line of code the cause for all of the issues, or were there other contributing factors?
Are there still any problems you need to resolve with this setup?
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The original issue was that the lights were on when I came home and the log didn't indicate that motion had been seen at the right time to turn those lights on. I started making changes that exacerbated the issues into the mess that my original post posed. There are several lessons learned here, though.
- The motion sensor aim is very important to understand. Zenith will tell you what the down angle is, but they do not list the up angle. Through experimentation, I can say that it can see slightly upward from horizontal.
- The relay seems to work very reliably even when triggered hundreds of times a night (though not ideal for longevity of the system).
- The Powerflash does not need to be in AHP in order for the signals it sends to pass through to the SDK. There may be a module in AHP that will allow for the signals to be passed through unaltered, but I did not locate one with my limited testing.
- Although I thought I had been very careful in documenting my code such that errors were not likely, I was able to find a handful of coding missteps that caused this (one missing line) and would likely have caused other problems down the road.
- Even when the project is done, it's never really done!
I think this problem is resolved, but I'll continue to monitor the performance to verify proper operation. The reason I just started seeing this issue is that sunrise happens to fall right after my wife leaves for work at this time of the year. I suspect that had I not gotten this resolved I would not have noticed this issue again until next fall. This would have probably mysteriously disappeared in another couple weeks when sunrise happened before my wife leaves.
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So far, so good! I'd call this resolved.
Thanks all! >!
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B:(
I walked outside this morning to clean the clogged gutters and the light didn't turn on for me. I reviewed the log just now and found that it's still having issues on the order of 6% of the time. I'm going to have to try the XPF to see if that helps. I also had one of my ActiveEye's not respond, but I'm thinking it might be related to getting wet. It's located on the south side of the house and it was really stormy last night through this morning (hence cleaning the gutters), so I suspect there was a lot of driven rain that may have seeped inside the case. Last time I had this issue, I brought it inside to dry out and changed the batteries.
Btw, how long do MS16A's work on a single set of batteries? I know we have motion on that side of the house from wildlife and possibly just the trees. I replaced batteries ~1 month ago, so I'd be disappointed if they already failed. I suppose I could use a different motion sensor in that location mounted directly to the light fixture...
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I modified my motion sensor code for those MS16A units so that I can tell which one is sensing motion. Before, I just set them both to the same HU code and used the ON signal to trigger the motion delay code. It's obvious if it's working if I walk outside, since they are quite a ways apart. However, if they trip at night, I don't know which one was sending the code. If it's the same one, that would explain the poor battery life!
If I have time this weekend, I'm thinking I'll have to unplug all of the signal sucker/noise generators that I can to see if I get more reliable performance. The issue is still that I can't cause unreliability on a whim. Of course, if I could do that, I'd know what to fix. rofl
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Well, I still haven't figured out why I'm losing signals yet. I didn't have a chance to check with and without certain things plugged in, so I opted to modify the code for now. Since I can't rely on both ON and OFF being received, I changed the code so it looks for either ON or OFF and just sets the delay timer when either is seen. I'll try to get things more reliable, but this will work for now.
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I realized this morning that as a side affect of having the debugging log running on the HA server, I actually have a log of when the burglar got to the house and where he/they went. It doesn't help catch anyone or, more importantly, get the stuff back, but it is interesting I suppose.
Anyway, when I was reviewing the log, I noticed that the motion sensor connected to the PF module appears to be seen on the wrong HU code some of the time. It appears that several of the signals that were supposed to be on O1 were recorded as being A1. Since this is a new PF module and it's doing exactly the same thing as the original one, I conclude that this is an interference or power wire issue and not a module issue.
Has anyone seen this happen (sending the wrong HU code)? If so, other than reviewing signal suckers/noise generators, what did you do to resolve the issue? I've tried changing the unit code, but perhaps I should look into changing the house code as well. Since that's easy enough, I'll give that a try this evening or over the weekend pending my free time.
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I have succeeded in making my system all but useless over PLC! :)% Wait... B:(
Actually, this is sort of a good thing in that I believe the cause was a pair of failing UPS units plus one bad power strip. One of the UPS units may have improved things by filtering some noise, but when removed things got bad.
Basically, I have one UPS and power strip for my TV/stereo. I had the battery backup for the TV and DTV receiver such that if power went out for a short time or flickered, the TV would continue to work and the DTV DVR would not reset. I noticed that the lights and TV flickering at the same time...meaning the TV power was not being filtered by the UPS correctly. I unplugged the UPS and the TV and DTV DVR immediately died. Hmmm, turns out it was probably overloaded (350VA UPS isn't quite big enough I guess) and the battery is toast. I'll check the power strip too, but I think the UPS is the main issue.
Secondly, the UPS I was using for my office was WELL undersized and the battery was very much TOAST! I installed a 1500VA unit and it works great.
Third, I know I have a power strip on a TV/console setup that's causing noise/signal sucking issues. I haven't replaced it yet, but if I plug anything in on that circuit, it does not work.
So, after pulling the 2 UPS units and installing the one in the office, things work HORRIBLY! This means that I'll need to finish that filter project I've got 50% done and sitting in the basement. It also means I'll need to obtain a battery for the bad UPS and up to 3 good quality surge protectors. I may also opt to purchase a filter (or a few). I just need to verify that I'm well under the 5A limit for the X10 plugin filters.
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Well if needed. Smarthome makes a 1626-10 10 amp filter and ACT AF120 a 15 amp filter.
I have a 10 amp FilterLinc on my UPS and the unfiltered pass through outlet on it has my 2413S Insteon PLM in it.
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5 Amp
http://www.x10.com/pro/automation/xppf.htm
10 Amp
http://www.smarthome.com/22955/Simply-Automated-ZNF10A-P-Noise-Filter-and-Attenuation-Isolator-Plug-In/p.aspx
http://www.smarthome.com/1626-10/FilterLinc-10-Amp-Plug-In-Noise-Filter/p.aspx
15 Amp
http://www.smarthome.com/4845ACF/ACT-AF120-15-Amp-Plug-In-Noise-Filter/p.aspx
20 Amp
http://www.smarthome.com/4834/X10-XPF-20A-3-Wire-X10-Noise-Filter/p.aspx
I purchased a 20 Amp for the office and will be getting the enclosure with 2 outlets finished this evening. I could do the same with the other locations, but I'll probably just use a plug-in filter since they are smaller and easier to deal with. I wanted an extension cord from the wall inside the desk anyway, so it made sense for that instance.
Of the 5-15 Amp filters, which is best? I'd rather get a 10-15 Amp plug-in than a 5 Amp if it's close.
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Not too much help here.
The XPPF is known to get warm and smell. If pushed near 5 amps.
I have not seen any thing on the ZNF10A-P. It looks like a low pass filter as it is rated to filter out above 4KHz signals.
The 10 amp FilterLinc has an internal soldered in fuse if you overload it. Though has an unfiltered outlet on the front.
The ACT AF120 has an external replaceable fuse if you overload it.
The wired in XPF is very large as you probably have already noticed.
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The XPF is very large for no reason. I disassembled mine and found that there's a very simple board with what looks like 3 coils (chokes) and 3 capacitors (I think) plus a couple other small components. The board has very large traces, which makes sense since there would be a lot of power running at 20 Amps. The board has a lot of extra space at the ends for no reason other than perhaps separation from the screws that tie it down. I was planning on attaching the board inside my project box and using electrical tape as an extra insulation layer (just in case). It seems like they made it big so it would look substantial.
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The XPF is very large for no reason.
When pushed hard, those inductors may get warm. The large size increases the surface area to get heat out of the box.
Jeff
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Maybe a standard case they used for a few devices.
My X10Pro XPCR along with Leviton HCA02 and 6201 X10 coupler repeaters all use the exact same case.
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They used the same case for the XPCR (as Brian H said). I wouldn't say the enclosure itself is excessively large. However, the space around the enclosure at each end amounts to 1-1.5" extra length that really isn't necessary. As for cooling, there isn't going to be that much if the box is sealed. But, if the components get too close to the case (with or without ventilation) they could cook the plastic. For this application, I'll be using a bigger case than X10, so I'm not concerned.
I wish X10 had made the case differently so it could have fit in a standard outlet box like some other brands. That would have been pretty easy since they are close as is.
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A little bit of an update...
I finished up the filtered outlet extension cord box based around the XPF. I installed 2 pairs of outlets in the box such that I have 1 pair of filtered and 1 pair unfiltered. I only intend on using the filtered outlets, but I figured having an extra couple outlets can't hurt since I had the space!
After installing this and plugging in the UPS and surge protector in the filtered outlets, I attempted using my Smarthome X10 toggle switch X10WS467I (not connected to a light, so it just sends the ON/OFF commands that my software interprets). Nothing...
I then restarted the HA computer thinking that AHP might have broken somehow. Nothing...
I tried again later and it worked. The office filter seems to be working find, but, without any kind of filter in the living room, the TV and/or DTV DVR are causing issues. So, once the battery for my UPS arrives, I'll get that stuff hooked up again and see if I also need a filter. I'm going to bump up the UPS for that location from 350VA to 725VA. I suspect that I might have been overloading the old UPS at times which might have over stressed the battery.
Either way, it looks like the living room needs filtering and I might be set. >!
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Thanks for the updates.
Hope the filters will be all that is still needed.
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I just did a quick audit of what equipment I have in the living room that would be on the filter to see what size I need to get.
Device Amps Watts
TV 2.1 250
Rcvr 6.2 75
Xbox 1.1 125
DVD 0.625 75
VCR 0.625 75
CD changer 0.625 75
DTV Rcvr 1.1 125
TOTAL 12.375 1475
Anyway, it looks to me like I need a 15A filter. I was thinking that the ACT AF120 would be a good choice for that location since it has a fuse and is already built the way I'd want it. Also, there's a bit of a small selection. rofl
The alternative is to buy a couple of the smaller 10A filters, but that's more expensive and would require extension cords of some kind to physically fit in the outlet.
Here's another 10A filter:
http://www.smarthome-products.com/p-2385-simply-automated-znf10a-p-noise-filter-insolator-plug-in-10a.aspx
On the other hand, now that I read the details on the label of the 10A FilterLinc, it states 10A max filtered or 15A unfiltered with a combined max of 15A. If I were to use both plugs, I'd be able to filter some things and leave others unfiltered. I would suspect that the DVD, VCR, CD Changer at a minimum would not require filtering. That would bring me down to 10.5A. Also, those current ratings are peak. So, it's unlikely that I would see the peak for the TV, Receiver, XBox, and DTV DVR all at the same time. The only issue here is that I don't want to take a chance of hitting/exceeding that limit especially with a filter that has no changeable fuse.
So, I think I'll just go with an ACT AF120.
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It is a time delay 10 amp fuse if memory serves me. 5X20 mm with leads. I have seen some reports of users changing them after an overload. Cover screwed on and easily to remove.
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Oh, so it's not soldered in? If it's simply a fuse in a fuse holder behind the cover, I'm ok with that. I just don't want to have to source a solder in fuse and replace it all the time. I suspect that the current numbers the manuals provided was a peak that is only seen if everything is turned on to max (which I don't do cause I like my equipment).
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I picked up a Kill-A-Watt and battery for the UPS on the way home this evening. I ran through all of the equipment in my living room and it looks like the spec values are VERY conservative. I measured each device in it's off state and it's maximum on state. Each time, it appears that the peak is much less than what's suggested by either the manual or generic lists of equipment found online. In all, when I have everything turned on, but not at max load (e.g., DVD player on but not playing disc, VCR on but not rewinding, etc.) I found that I maxed around 4A. I believe that I would be well under 10A if I were to have the stereo cranked to my personal maximum volume and everything else left on (which I don't do).
But, after hooking everything up behind the UPS (surge protector plugged into a surge outlet on the UPS), the lights work correctly again. I can't say at this point if they work 100% (probably not), but they worked in the quick test I did earlier. I'm planning on ordering a filter just to be safe, but, as it is, things are back to where they were a couple weeks ago.
Unless things change, I think I'm back up and running. Thanks for all the help!
#:)
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It is soldered on to the PC Board in the FilterLinc. Sorry for being unclear.
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Ahhh, ok. Thanks for the clarification.
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Hrmmmm.... I thought that I was looking pretty good with the current configuration, but over the last couple days I've noticed that the Powerflash based motion sensor is struggling again. There's obviously something causing this, so I'm looking forward to testing things out with JeffVolp's XTBM! I was skeptical that it would be used that much, but I'm fairly confident at this point that it will help determine where my noise generators are. I highly suspect that the new furnace is the core of the issue, but the meter will either verify that and/or show me what else is an issue.
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Just a bit of an update:
I purchased an XTBM kit from JeffVolp and put it together a few days ago. This thing is AWESOME! I've found that I have a few issues around the house that need addressing. I always suspected the A/V UPS in the living room needed a filter as did some component of the furnace, but with the XTBM in hand, I was able to figure it out. The UPS definitely needs a filter. The furnace needs a filter on the first circuit which contains the fan and circuit board (probably the fan only). Also, the power inserter for the Directv dish is a signal sucker and needs isolation but not the UPS it's plugged into. I'll probably buy a couple 10A FilterLinc's and, after I hear back from the furnace manufacturer, probably 2 XPF's to wire in the blower fan. It's possible that if I reduce the other problem areas enough, I won't need to filter the furnace...but probably not.
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The furnace needs a filter on the first circuit which contains the fan and circuit board (probably the fan only).
bkenobi
FWIW
I had Lennox Pulse furnace that wiped out half the house for X10 communications. My problem was a switching power supply on the furnace control circuit board, the fan motor (standard AC induction motor with H,M,L windings...four wires) was not a noise maker. I was able to put a small filter in the 120V line to the circuit board and make X10 happy.
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Ok, I'll have to do a little looking. The blower motor is variable speed and has 2 sets of inputs. It appears that one connection is for the variable speed controlled by the board and the other is a slow speed for low speed circulation controlled by the thermostat directly.
This is a Goodman Brand (American Standard's other line) variable speed, 2-stage system. I called Goodman after hours last night and need to call back today to see if I can find out if they have any known sources. If not, I'll poke around to see if the power supply could be the source. The only concern is the draw on the board and not using a filter that's too small. I see a 3A fuse, so that's probably the max over current that they could foresee.
Thanks for the input!
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I tested all of the stuff around the house that looked to be likely offenders for noise. Turns out that the biggest is the furnace (as expected), but there are a few others that I'll have to deal with as well. I'm planning on installing an XTB-IIR to replace my XPCR. That's the final solution (plus filters) hopefully.
I did some research and found some details about the furnace. The first image is the wiring diagram for the furnace. As you can see by the red boxes, this is where the circuit board gets it's power from the L1/L2 220 power coming from the panel. I'm not going to filter at the panel since this is a 60A breaker. I need to filter inside the furnace so that I'm only filtering the power going to the logic board where the noise is coming from. This furnace has a 24VAC transformer which is apparently standard. I see that the correct way to install the filter is via the 240 split-phase diagram from the second picture. The problem is, I don't think I have neutral in my furnace box. If not, I guess I'll either have to pull a neutral line or do something different.
I guess if I'm going the XTB-IIR route anyway, perhaps I could just try things unfiltered to see if I need to add a filter on the furnace. Not ideal, but maybe good enough. Anyone have any thoughts on that approach?
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I would try the XTB-IIR first.
On my worse circuit with 6 two way modules on it. My XTBM reads 1.50 volts of X10 signals when the XTB-IIR is connected.
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Do you recall what your pre XTB-IIR signal strength was on that circuit? I'm curious if the drop in signal strength is an offset or if it's scaled. If you start out at 5v and the signal sucker drops the strength down to .50v (10x or 4.5v drop), does that mean that the strength would be 25v->2.5v or would it be 25v->20.5v. As long as it's strong enough, I suppose it doesn't matter. I'm just curious from your experience.
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I did some varied repeater tests as found in this thread.
They are the output readings at the breaker box. On the test rig.
http://forums.x10.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=l8hij5hln2l9ito4l3dcrq7a12&topic=24038.0
Reading in the branch circuit I was mentioning.
I had done some repeater tests with a custom test rig and some different repeaters.
They where patched directly into two breakers in the homes panel.
Two TM751s feeding the Line 1 and Line 2 AC inputs of the test rig.
Readings on the circuit I mentioned Left Fireplace Outlet. With XTBM
Smarthome 2826B ID#12 Line 1 0.11 Line 2 0.26
Smarthome 2826B ID#14 Line 1 0.18 Line 2 0.28
ACT CR134 Line 1 0.52 Line 2 0.65
ACT CR234 Line 1 0.50 Line 2 0.65
Leviton HCA02 Line 1 0.20 Line 2 0.27
Leviton 6201 Line 1 0.15 Line 2 0.26
X10Pro XPCR Line 1 0.13 Line 2 0.26
JV Engineering XTB-IIR TM751 in front outlet. 2.00 volts
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Ok, that's really helpful! I was trying to determine if I'd get a boost from some locations high enough to make it worth the effort. The PF that this thread started in regards to is sitting at 0.31 even with all major offenders disconnected. At that rate, filtering will possibly help other locations, but it will have zero effect on the primary driving device. But, since the signals you mentioned are in the range of what I have and post XTB-IIR they are certainly acceptable, I'd say it's a no brainer.
I'm going to get a XTB-IIR and replace the XPCR ASAP. I don't think it's helping all that much other than bridging the lines. I'm certainly not getting a boosted signal strength that was reported by X10 in the literature.
I'll order a few filters and install them just so I don't have any nagging issues down the road. Looks like I'll need a couple XPF's for the furnace and a few 5-10A plug-in as well.
Once I get everything installed, I'll update this thread as to the new signal strengths. >!
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Bkenobi,
Adding this to my system with the XTBR took care of any intermitten problems I had. I highly recommend it.
http://jvde.us/xtb/XTB-ANR_description.htm
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I got my XTB-IIR installed into the main panel to replace the X10 XPCR that I've been using for a few months. I can say that from limitted testing, this new repeater is AWESOME! I checked the signal strength from an outlet that was getting very low signal strengths (~0.11 from the CM15A via palm pad RF command) and with Jeff's device, I read ~5. I still find that I have low signal in an area with nasty signal suckers, but I'm waiting for my plug-in filters to arrive to resolve that.
I tested the motion sensor on the PF and it worked every time. I'm hopeful now that this will be resolved with the plug-in filters and perhaps a pair of wired ones in the furnace. Thanks for all the help!
>!
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I installed the 4 Smarthome 10A plug-in filters earlier this week. I'm not sure why, but the wireless MS16A motion sensors seem to be having issues now. I think this is more related to the massive amount of water that keeps bombarding them and fogging up the lenses (meaning water is getting inside). I suspect that water is reducing the range of the antenna since adding an RR501 very close to the module fixes the issue. I guess I'll have to bring them inside to dry out and then seal them with silicon everywhere I can!
But, the good news is that I THINK the wired modules are working correctly. I'll be reviewing the logs today so I'll be able to know for sure then.
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Looks like all of the effort I've put in so far has gotten me an improvement, but not a solution yet. I've reviewed the log of PF activations over the last couple days since I got the filters installed and my reliability has gone up quite a bit. I'm currently at 1.5% missed commands (that I know of) versus over 6% before. This is good, but not perfect yet. I have a pair of XPF's on order that will go into the furnace, so hopefully that will help get me over 99.9% signal reliability!
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Could a dimmer cause noise issues? I have a few around the house that I've never though of being any kind of problem, but I'm curious now. The PF motion sensor didn't work after 2 activations this morning. I waked away for ~5 minutes and tried again and it worked. I'm assuming it has to do with some device in the house that was on the first time and not the second.
I know my wife was in the bathroom prepping for work, so she could have had the following on:
- Bedroom lights (incandescent, so unlikely an issue)
- Bathroom lights (incandescent on a variable dimmer)
- Shower lights/fan (see this thread for description: http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=23345.0)
- Hair dryer (probably 120/240 switching power supply)
- Hair straightener (probably 120/240 switching power supply, but not used this morning)
- Heat pump off
- Furnace off (circuit board not filtered yet)
I guess the things I'm considering an issue would be the hair dryer, hair straightener, furnace control board (which will be filtered soon), and maybe the variable dimmer on the shower fan. I should be getting the filters for the furnace in the next day or two so I'll be able to eliminate that as a noise issue shortly.
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I think all of the filters (I have the furnace filters, but didn't install them yet) and the XTB-IIR have significantly improved the reliability of my system. I now can see that the power flash is sending signals a lot more than I was seeing before. It is, however, not the right address all of the time. I have the PF set to O1 and I'm seeing many instances of A1 (which is an empty HU address on my system). After reviewing the X10 protocol, it appears that O (0100) is very close to A (0110). I've found that the motion sensor setup is somehow causing noise as witnessed by the XTBM.
With the XTBM plugged into the outlet where the PF resides, if I trip the motion sensor I see "High Noise" and a measure of 0.20. According to Jeff Volp, anything over 0.1 is devastating, so 2x that is an issue (especially at the transmitter location).
So, I'm thinking that I need to filter the motion sensor now. But, I'm not sure what to use. The motion sensor is not using much power and the light that it's actuating is small (60W incandescent), so I suspect any filter on the market would work. But, I need a wired filter and I don't want it to be large. Would the XPNR work in this situation? I'm not familiar with them, but they seem nice and compact. I think I could fit one inside the single gang I'm currently using which would be a nice benefit. If I go with an XPF, I'd have to get a 3- or maybe even a 4-gang box. That's crazy!
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I am closing this thread out at this point.
I have gone through my entire house's wiring with a fine toothed comb and mapped where everything goes as well as what's powered by what. In doing so, I was able to determine what devices caused signal strength issues and have installed around a dozen filters to deal with things. I tried filtering the electric dryer's circuit board, but it didn't seem to help (I installed a pair of XPF in parallel on the logic board leg but after a couple days the dryer decided not to work so I disabled it).
So, with the XTB-IIR installed at the panels, I was able to read signal strengths of between 2.00 and 9.99+ at every outlet in the house with most reading closer to 7.00+. I'd like to thank everyone for their help on this issue (or what is actually a series of issues). Most notably, I'd definitely like to thank Jeff Volp who provided WAY more help than was right to expect including a series of 40+ emails over 2 months!
>!
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This is not to reopen the topic, but to give a little bit of an update after another month of use. After reviewing my logs between May 1-30, I see that there were still a few missed signals from the motion sensor. At this point, it looks like I have around 1.86% missed signals. This is not surprising in that the PF is located on the lowest signal strength outlet in the house. The logs show that these commands were not strong enough for the XTB-IIR to pick them up as valid. I have a solution should this cause actual problems. Currently, I'm happy with ~98% accuracy such that I'm not going to do anything to improve things. I have a backup plan that will solve the problem if I change my mind, so even if I do need to make a change, I know exactly what that will be.