X10 Community Forum
🔌General Home Automation => Automating Your House => Troubleshooting Automation Problems => Topic started by: bkenobi on April 27, 2012, 11:40:00 AM
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I just bought 4 Smarthome 10A FilterLinc modules off ebay. I have 4 others that worked great, so these seemed like a no brainer! The new ones were listed as possible cosmetic flaws but perfectly functional. Well, not so much. Two work great, but the other 2 don't provide power out the filtered plug. I opened them up to check and sure enough, no power through the fuse.
Does anyone have a source for new fuses for the 10A FilterLinc? These are super easy to work on, so it seems like it should be cake to get a new one. These ones appear to be similar to the standard miniature ones that go in fuse holders except it's got a lead off each end to solder onto the board. Actually, these ones from Mouser look pretty close:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Schurter/00012514/?qs=ar9f0rk5DXAv7bOT1eVqd3koUoE5qHX0yNmmsMrAozM%3d
http://www.mouser.com/images/schurter/lrg/0001-25xx-axial.jpg
$0.38 is pretty reasonable...but then there's the shipping. :'
Anyway, thoughts?
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Digikey also carries a supply of these fuses. I talked to the online chat and they indicated that I need to replace this one with a ceramic fuse since that's what is currently in the module. I found a few that are 10A 250V ceramic and have the axial leads, but I can't tell the difference. Any thoughts on fuses? Normal/Slow/Fast blow? Etc?
I may just have to desolder one of the bad ones so I can see a part number. That would give me a good idea of what is installed currently anyway.
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If you can find the original markings it may help to verify its ratings.
I was able to see a partial marking on one of mine. It started with a F10.
I have a 5 amp FilterLinc and its fuse starts with a F5.
Most likely the F is fast.
I know that the ones I used at work. A rating starting with a T was a time delay.
I did find two Littlefuse fuses on Mousers site that may work. If you can post your findings on the markings and maybe the length of the fuse body. Would be a help.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0216010MXESPP/?qs=PoXZt%252b2CjAAfgOqh60qsGQuqbta%252b5Avq5CfjV9vr4Ok%3d
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0216010MXEP/?qs=8QfiMw8FY5NmcLOlEFnlJJVROeGEXRmOLix439D6RVU%3d
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I believe they say F10H250. Looks to me like these are fast acting 250VAC fuses. So, I'd just need to get ceramic ones with leads. I think the part I'd probably need is 0324010.MXP which both Mouser and Digikey sell. I think the only difference is that these ones are 250VAC and the ones you listed are 125VAC. Since I'm only using 110VAC, either should work, but I'll put in the originals to be on the save side.
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F10H250 does sound like a 10 amp 250 volt fast acting fuse.
125 volts?
The Mouser sales page said 250 volts for both the series 216 and 216SP. Their data sheets also say 250 volts.
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$0.38 is pretty reasonable...but then there's the shipping. :'
Digikey will ship via First Class Mail which is the most reasonable for small items like these.
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I stand corrected. The 216 series is 250VAC. I thought I read otherwise, but you are correct that it is in fact a viable part. I'm going to get several so I don't have to worry about the other ones I have (in case they were also abused and pop at some point). Any of these is pretty reasonable price-wise compared to buying a new filter from Smarthome, so I'm not too worried about it.
FWIW, I tried to remove the cap from the fuse I had desoldered to see if I could just slip it over a new clip in fuse...that didn't work. The ceramic shattered and revealed the wire inside. Upon examination, the fuse was definitely burnt. I also thought I might be able to replace the axial lead fuse with a fuse holder and cartridge fuse. That would work if there were more space. As it is, the holder contacts one of the coils so I'm not going that way!
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I was thinking of a fuse holder myself. Thanks for the update on a tight fit.
I have one of the 5 amp FilterLincs that use to be a few dollars cheaper. Close examination of the components and PCB. Looked like the only difference was a 5 amp fuse and not a 10 amp one.
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So then I should just buy a 20A fuse and it will become a replacement for the XPF? -:)
jk
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I got the fuse holder and a set of fuses from Fry's on Friday and tried the fit last night. I don't see that one listed on their web site, but a 2 pack similar to the following was under $2.
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/BK%2FHTC-15M/283-2923-ND/601150
But, like I said, it's too tall. If there was one available that didn't sit up on top of the plastic block, it would probably fit better, but getting a new cartridge in/out would be tricky with the ground wire running right over top and the 2 coils so close. Desoldering isn't that tough, so I'm going that route and not overloading the thing!
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No I would not do that. I doubt the coils and PCB runs would have enough safety margin for 20 amps.
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hence the jk at the end. It might make a nice light show if the case were left off.
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If I were going to use a fuse holder in this installation, I think something like this one would work nicely:
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/4525/4525K-ND/1530666
The problem with this specific unit is that the leads are not going to be spaced correctly. The holes in the PCB are ~1/4" wider than the length of a fuse. In order to make the holder from Fry's work, I had to bend the leads slightly. There isn't any way to do that with the one linked, so it won't work. But, being able to pull the fuse out the end would be VERY convenient based on how the filter is put together.
In any case, the best thing to do is not overload the filter so this doesn't have to be repaired!
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FWIW, I ordered 0216010.MXEP to replace the fuses from Digikey. $2.80 first class USPS is the best out there! The difference between this one and the one BrianH listed is apparently the packaging (MXESPP has a single pigtail, MXEP has 2 leads).
http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/Littelfuse_216SP_Data_Sheet.pdf
>!
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The 216SP is slightly smaller in length. They don't have the welded on end caps with the leads. The leads are directly bonded to the fuses end caps.
Should be a fine repair.
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The fuses arrived today. They appear identical to the originals other than the markings obviously. After installing the new fuse in each filter, they work as expected. Thanks for the help! :)%
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OK That is good news.
I had a feeling it would work. I have seen a post on another automation forum of replacing the fuse fixed them.
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Old thread, but it's mine so I'll do what I want with it. ;D
I have some 5A versions available for a pretty good price. I'm thinking of buying them and if the fuse blows replacing with 10A fuses. Any thoughts?
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Well I have seen no confirmation of this.
When I compared the guts of a 5 amp and 10 amp FilterLinc. All the coils and capacitors looked identical only the fuse as different.
The silk screened raw board number was the same. Between my 5 and 10 amp FilterLincs I opened to observe.
IMHO. Same board except a smaller fuse.
When you get your 5 amp ones. You can do a comparison of your own between them.
Faded memory here. I believe users on the Smarthome Forums had replaced the 5 amp fuse with a 10 amp one.
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I picked up 3 5A Filterlinc's for $10/ea and all work correctly. I don't really need the 10A versions, I was just thinking it would be nice to have them all identical since the only visual difference between the 5A and 10A is a small part number on the back. It would be easy to grab the wrong ones potentially. If I burn the fuse on one of these, I'll verify that the modules are identical prior to installing the bigger fuse.
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Yes the part number difference is just a -10 tacked onto the end of the main part number.