X10 Community Forum
🛡Home Security => Problems and Troubleshooting => Topic started by: desi77 on May 31, 2012, 11:31:51 AM
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I have try the set up as see below (now under number 6 what remote they are talking about keychain remote or black remote SH624…Needless to say I don’t hear any relay clicks) and again #8 which remote..
To program the Socket Rocket (LM15A):
1. Plug your transceiver or console (the module with the antenna) into the outlet nearest the LM15A.
2. Plug your lamp into an outlet (no extension cords, surge protectors, or power strips).
3. Turn the lamp on.
4. Unplug the lamp, leaving the switch in the On position.
5. Unscrew the bulb and screw in the Socket Rocket, and then the bulb.
6. Using your remote, make the transceiver's relay click on and off to confirm you have good communication by remote.
7. Plug in the lamp's power cord. You now have thirty seconds to program the Socket Rocket.
8. With your remote, send the On command for the code you want to assign to the Socket Rocket (i.e. A4). Send the On command every half-second until the Socket Rocket turns on. In reality, you only need to send three On commands, but send more than three, just in case a signal is not received.
9. When the light turns on, wait until the thirty seconds have passed. The Socket Rocket is now programmed with the code you want. Move the SocketRocket to a different socket, if desired; it will retain its code.
10. If the Socket Rocket does not program, relocate the transceiver and the lamp to a surge protector. This will create a small closed circuit. Also, verify that the bulb used is 60 Watts or higher. Unplug the lamp then go back to step 6.
Note: If the Socket Rocket loses power and then regains it, the thirty second programming window opens. If you do not want to change the code, do not send any On commands during this time and the previous code will remain.
SO WHAT am I doing wrong, please help me out… thanks
B:(
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1. Yes a SH264 remote will work using one of the number 1 through 4 switches on the lower half of the control. Key chain remote, Palm Pad, etc will work also.
2. The new TM751 transceiver no longer has a controlled outlet, so it will not click when # 1 button on remote is used.
3. The security console will not click either.
4. For programming, always plug lamp with LM15A in same outlet as the transceiver.
5. The LM15A comes from factory defalt programmed as house code A, unit code 1. So set your transceiver to house code A and turn ON and OFF numer 1 button on your remote. LM15A should flash on and off.
6. Unplug lamp for 10 seconds or so. Plug back in and try programming the LM15A per the instructions (send desired house code, unit code, "ON" three times, within 30 seconds, etc).
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#6 Just to confuse the issue even more. Some of the X10 dealers are again showing both a TM751 with Pass Through Outlets and those with the Internal Appliance style switch. Not sure if they found some pallets with old ones in the warehouse or if they got a new supply of the internal switches to use.
One vendor referred to the latest one with a switch in it as a TM751C.
Ones with the appliance switches where more costly.
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thanks dave and brian
i will try that tonight
my main panal is sc1200.
Also i am not so sure if plam pad is linked with my sc1200. For now i can't turn on or off alarm from it ..keychain works .
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The SC1200 can transceive the House Code it is set to just like a TM751. If both the SC1200 and the TM751 are on the same House Code. It is very possible they are stepping on each other. Both are totally impolite and send blindly. That could make programming a LM15A difficult.
The SH624 does not have to be registered to the SC1200 for the #1-#4 buttons to work as long as the House Code Dial on it matches the House Code set in the SC1200 House Code menu. With out registering it as you have seen it will not arm or disarm the SC1200.
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The SC1200 can be used to program a LM15A with no added remotes.
The keypad on the SC1200 can be used to send X10 power line signals for the House Code set in the menu.
Just connect the lamp with LM15A to the outlet the SC1200 is on.
Turn the lamp On.
Use the keypad to pick the unit code and then the On Botton on the console.
Three times with in 30 seconds should do it.
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It worked... I was doing all the step right while inside option #7 lightcode set up
All I had do was come out of ... Anyways thanks for thr help guys
Now I have make it louder, it's wont even wake me up at night lolz
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There are a few threads here on using a modified SH10A small Powerhorn to trigger a big external siren.
This is one of them.
http://forums.x10.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=naafj63u6qj93b8id3ijpn72c0&topic=18542.0
This is another one.
http://forums.x10.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=f5d0r49goj5vm8rj2ejl1pquj3&topic=21998.0
I did a custom mod to a SH10A myself. Though I removed original parts and added a small PCB to mine. Then used a surplus 8.2 volt power supply and sounder from All Electronics. Got the relay there also.
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There are a few threads here on using a modified SH10A small Powerhorn to trigger a big external siren.
This is one of them.
http://forums.x10.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=naafj63u6qj93b8id3ijpn72c0&topic=18542.0
This is another one.
http://forums.x10.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=f5d0r49goj5vm8rj2ejl1pquj3&topic=21998.0
I did a custom mod to a SH10A myself. Though I removed original parts and added a small PCB to mine. Then used a surplus 8.2 volt power supply and sounder from All Electronics. Got the relay there also.
i did read those links that you provided, are they talking about DC?
or am i reading it wrong.. if you can clarify that a bit would be nice. I already order mini powerhorn, I'll butcher it as soon as it gets to me ;D
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Yes the modified SH10A where the relay is added. Uses the relays contacts to switch an external DC voltage on to a larger siren or sounder or an external power relay if the siren draws lots of current..
Which mod where you going to do?
I found the Radio Shack 273-0079 12 VDC Piezo Siren is an attention getter and can be switched from the relay internally added to the SH10A and small 12 volt supply.
In my case I used one of those 6 outlet adapters and was able to plug the SH10A and a surplus DC wall wart into the same outlet with the sounder double sticky taped on to the front of the wall wart.
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Yes the modified SH10A where the relay is added. Uses the relays contacts to switch an external DC voltage on to a larger siren or sounder or an external power relay if the siren draws lots of current..
Which mod where you going to do?
I found the Radio Shack 273-0079 12 VDC Piezo Siren is an attention getter and can be switched from the relay internally added to the SH10A and small 12 volt supply.
In my case I used one of those 6 outlet adapters and was able to plug the SH10A and a surplus DC wall wart into the same outlet with the sounder double sticky taped on to the front of the wall wart.
this is the one i wanted to go with
http://forums.x10.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=naafj63u6qj93b8id3ijpn72c0&topic=18542.0
but again why DC? isn't dc is for cars and stuff and houses are on AC?
i order SH10 so than i will buy the rest of equipment and attached together and see. I was just confuse due to DC...
ohhhhh i see ...i do have that ac/dc 12v adaptor...okay i am good, now I'll just wait until i get my Sh10 and that I'll will hook it up to my main panel and than open it ...modify it ...i will have questions when i get to and i hope someone will able to help me out...thanks
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Sounds good to me.
One thing make sure the relay wires do not touch anything else than what the mod shows.
The SH10A uses AC Power Line voltage for operation. You don't want to get the AC power on anything going outside the case.
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Brian or anyone else who can answer it too...
question for you guys...
in the end of the post someone suggested this (see blow dashed line)
but my quesiton is where would you add the electrolytic capacitor? where about this little guy go on with relation to relay and diode...
thanks for help
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http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=18542.15
I just did this mod using op's radioshack reed relay part#275-0233 12vdc ($3.45) and SH10A. I discovered that I needed to put a electrolytic capacitor (used 27uf because that's what I had on hand) across the DC output of the diode. Without the capacitor, the reed would not close and would vibrate sounding like the missing piezoelectric speaker.
The reed relay in turn energizes a $3 car alarm relay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=12+Volt+Relay+Car+Alarms&_sacat=0&_odkw=2+Volt+Relay+Car+Alarms&_osacat=0&_from=R40. The car alarm relay activates a $9 DSC SD30W Alarm siren http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l2736&_nkw=SD30W. Works great in the attic but might mount it outside. I selected these parts based on their low cost on ebay. By the way the reed relay works because it requires only 11ma of current to close the contacts... that's the secret sauce.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2012, 07:00:04 AM by pseeker »
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Across the relays coil. Though it is polarity sensitive so it depends on how the diodes banded end is connected.
I also found that which white wire went to the diode made a difference to the voltage on the relay.
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I used my Experimenter Board to test a SH10A with the Radio Shack Relay.
Connecting the diode so the white band is connected to one of the relay coils.
One white from the sounder to the other end of the diode and the other white wire to the other relay coil.
The + voltage is on the coil wire connected to the diode. I tried a few capacitors. 33uf/35 volt worked very well and a 22uf/35 volt was OK also.
On thing I did find. Depending on which white wire is connected to the diode, the coil voltage was different.
With the white wire that goes back to the +29 volt power supply is on the diode. The coil was at around 19.3 volts DC. If I swapped the two white wires then the coil voltage was 10.75 volts DC.
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For what it's worth I did the modification in the second posted thread above, and here are my numbers for the modified SH10:
"The SH10A modification involved bypassing the piezo speaker wires and routing both to the (added) binder posts. A diode was added to the ”circuit board-piezo speaker” (negative) wire. This allows for a DC output to the binder posts (added to the side of the case). The activation of the Power Horn and subsequent change in DC output to the sensitive relay will power the relay controlled outlet. (The DC voltage of the SH10A will change from 5.73 volts to 20.57 volts with activation.)"
Not to cloud the issue - FYIO
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I have done some of the thing suggested for Siren mod.
I will post picture of what I did for more help..
I am seeing one issue, I can measure voltages up to relay coils pins boy on out put of relay
I am not getting any voltage, what might be the reason?
Thanks
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A picture may help.
Like where you are measuring the voltage. Across the coil or exactly where.
You are not seeing the relay switch On the external power supply to the siren?
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DAMN...IT didn't work...yes today i don't have to go to my part time job..i will upload pictures..
---i have two mini horns, one with mod and one without...one without mod works ....but with mod i didn't try it before moding, is not working. Maybe i can only have on mini horn? or my first one is on A1 and second one should be at A2?
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The SC1200 uses two X10 Addresses. The House Code and Unit Code you set in the SC1200 and the same House Code and the Unit Code +1.
So if you are using A1 as your first address. A2 is the second one.
All of them can be on the same address, but you may want to try A2 since it is send second. May make a difference but I don't think setting them to A1 would unselected them with the A2 being sent.
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Okay it can't be a1 or A2 issues .. Like u said
This is how I connected
--2 wires from tiny transformer (left and right)
--right wires goes to diode (black band side connected to reed relay)
-- so wire from diode is sadder with coil side and output side
---capacitor connected to (plus side) same place where diode is..coil and output
--other side of capacitor connected to other side of relay to coil only
--stay with me now it's confusing lol
---one out put of coil (not sadder to anything) it goes to my siren
----second wire from my transformer is connected to coil side(where capacitor negative is connected to relay
--- from this same place second wire goes to siren
... When I test siren with dc out put it works ... Not with my system
I will post again with picture maybe someone will catch my mistake
Thanks
(http://)
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Are you using an external power supply for the siren?
It can not be run from the voltage on the relay coil and it sounds like that maybe what you are trying to do.
The relay coil, diode and capacitor use the voltage from the Powerhorn's siren driver.
The external siren is powered by an external power supply and switched On and Off by the relays contacts.
If you can add a photo it would help.
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you are correct that's what i was trying to do...also i am trying to upload picture...but can't ...help?
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Sorry picture not showing.
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i try few time to post picture but arent' working..
i am using "insert Image" icon but northing showing in picture...
[img ...path to my picture.../img]
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You may want to try the additional Options and then the attach function.
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here is the picture but my text is too small to see now, but ask away where these wires coming from lolz
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here is bit better pic
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The relay what RS part number?
The relay contacts {Outputs} can not be tied to the coil connections as the small voltage from the internal siren driver circuit will not drive the siren. An external isolated power supply is needed.
Also since the SH10A uses a AC derived power supply. Only the two Isolated Relay contacts should be routed outside of the case. The white wires from the siren driver have live AC connections through the internal electronics.
Diode
White wire -------->|---------Relay Coil.
|
+ Capacitor
- Capacitor
|
White Wire -------------------Relay Coil
Relay Contact ------------------- Siren +
Relay Contact ------------------- External Power supply +
External Power Supply - --------- Siren -
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Brian you the man... :)
your diagram makes easy to do this lolz
i already connected it now i all i have to do is try it a home..
if this all works well. i`ll create new post and post this info within, for guys like me who have limited electric skills can use this info...
ps: my relay is R44-1D2-12 (IF101J)
I just tried it at home it works great >!
Now I will make post of this with all info and pictures
Thanks all for help