X10 Community Forum
🔌General Home Automation => Automating Your House => Troubleshooting Automation Problems => Topic started by: CobERA on January 07, 2013, 02:16:52 PM
-
I have used X10 for many years, with lamp and appliance modules controlled by 3 timers and 1 table top controller. I recently moved into a brand new home, and none of my modules seem to respond to commands from any of the controllers, even if the module and controller are plugged into the same outlet. I assume that that rules out a phase problem? Your thoughts please.
Thanks,
Rick
-
What are you using for the 3 timers?
-
I have three timers that look like clock radios. They each have four individual on/off switches as well as an "all lights on/off" switch and a "dim all" switch. I think they are pretty standard timer/controllers.
-
Sounds like the older MiniTimer MT10A.
http://kbase.x10.com/wiki/Mini_Timer
-
Yes. It is definitely the "older" style with the arrow buttons on top. I was just doing a search for it, but it appears to no longer be available.
-
The MT10A has been gone for many years now.
The MT12A has now been replaced by the MT13A.
-
If they don't even work in the same outlet as the controller.
One possibility is a severe noise source on the power lines.
You don't have a TED5000 Energy Monitoring system do you?
Any other device constantly sending data on the power lines?
Fancy new Smartmeter from the Power Company?
Do you happen to have an X10 power line filter?
Normally this would be the last thing you would do normally, but if you have a filter. Put a module and a controller on the filtered side to isolate them from the home. Then see if you can control that single module with the controller.
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm
http://www.act-remote.com/PCC/uncle.htm
-
Sounds like noise to me, too.
If it isn't the power meter, I'd suspect CFL bulbs, noisy power supplies (any low-voltage lighting?), or some other electronics you didn't have in your old house.
Since you just moved into the new house, I bet you haven't had a chance to map out the breaker box yet. You can do that while doing the "breaker box test."
You might also want to test the controller and module in a "known good" place, like your old home (if you can), or a friend's house,work, etc.
Plugging the two into a surge protector, which you then plug into the "filtered" side of an X10 filter, should do the same thing.
One other possibility is a noisy device (or CFL bulb) at a neighbor on the same transformer. I had that happen to me (and it is was a real pain to find it).
-
There are no CFLs in the house, no energy monitoring system, no low voltage lighting, and I am using the same electronics that I had in the old house. I'm not sure about whether we have a smart meter or not. Is it easy to determine by looking at it?
Also, I doubt it is a neighbor. There are only three completed homes in the neighborhood, only two of which are occupied, and built by the same builder with very similar features to mine.
I don't have a filter. Any recommendations on what to buy and where?
Thanks,
Rick
-
Read through the trouble shooting guide on Jeff Volp's site. The primary thing to do is verify that noise generators/signal suckers are eliminated through testing. When you have any that exist in your home isolated, it's easier to determine what the fix should be. It could be as simple as buying a filter to plug your cell phone charger into. It could be more complicated, but you won't know until you do a little testing.
-
Look at your electric meter. I'm guessing it has a digital readout on it (even the "dumb" ones do these days), and should probably have a manufacturer and model number listed on it somewhere.
If you can't determine from that, post the information here, and one of us might be able to help you figure that out.
Were you able to confirm that the controller and module work together somewhere else?
If you don't have a filter, Another thing that *might* work to allow for testing the module and controller in your home would be to plug them into a power strip, and plug that in through a LONG extension cord (the longer the better - 100 feet of additional wire might attenuate the noise enough to make a difference).
Just because there are only three other completed houses, doesn't mean they can't be causing problems. If they are on the same transformer as your house, noise can travel from one of those houses to yours and still be strong enough to interfere. It happened to me a few years back with a failing CFL bulb at the house across the street. It was a pain to find, but simple to fix - I bought him a pair of new bulbs. One of your neighbors might have decided to reduce their energy usage by installing CFL and/or LED bulbs.
I'd suggest doing a "breaker box test" to see if you can narrow down the source of the problem.
I got my filters from Smarthome.com. I have had good success with their FilterLinc line.
-
Some housing developments are now being wired three phase.
With each house getting two of the three Line connections and alternating which of the three Lines are paired together.
Do you know if your high power devices like electric stoves and dryers are 208 volts or 240 volts?
X10 is supposed to send each message three times. One timed to match each phases zero crossing.
-
Some housing developments are now being wired three phase.
I was not aware of that. Do you have a link to additional info? I know that a lot of apartment/condo complexes and converted lofts are polyphase (most individual units have 120/208 with two phases) but had not heard of it for housing developments.
It may make my new Universal Powerline Modem design (developed in collaboration with Gus Ditallo) quite useful.
For the original poster. I don't recall seeing reports that smartmeters blocked all X10. Rather, there were reports of random X10 turn-ons of wall switches, mostly in homes served by Duke Energy in the Cincinnati area. Most reports of blocked X10 have been traced to noisy power supplies of one type or another. As you are in a new house, you should take the opportunity to map all of your breakers, outlets and switches so you have a foundation for future troubeshooting.
-
There are other things to check. There have been reports that the variable speed blowers in newer HVAC systems cause serious noise problems. And look for anything in the basic house that might be different. Even a wall-wart power supply feeding a CATV distribution system or security system could be a noise source.
Jeff
-
Thanks for all of the replies. I've got some research and homework to do over the next few days. I'll let you know what I turn up.
Rick
-
The three-phase theory is interesting, but the OP said in the first post that it didn't work, even with the controller and the module in the same outlet.
-
@ Jeff
You mentioned that HVAC unit with variable speed blower motors can be bad for X10. Since I have 3 of them in my house I was wondering if you have a recommendation on how to isolate these as they are directly wired into my distribution panel...
Thanks
Leon
-
You mentioned that HVAC unit with variable speed blower motors can be bad for X10. Since I have 3 of them in my house I was wondering if you have a recommendation on how to isolate these as they are directly wired into my distribution panel...
Isolate each circuit with a big X10 XPF filter (or 2 if it is a 240V circuit).
Jeff
-
You mentioned that HVAC unit with variable speed blower motors can be bad for X10. Since I have 3 of them in my house I was wondering if you have a recommendation on how to isolate these as they are directly wired into my distribution panel...
Try and determine first if the blower is actually putting out noise. I have a varible speed blower and it is not a problem, (verified by Jeff's XTBM signal/noise meter).
-
My HVAC has a variable speed motor and that does not cause noise. I find that the circuit board does cause noise though. I have the same issue with a dryer circuit where the noise is present when the unit is on but does not change when it is running (thus the circuit is to blame). In my case, the HVAC circuit board could be filtered with a single XPF but it would possibly void my installer's warranty if I were to install it myself so I haven't tried. Jeff gave me a schematic for installing a pair of XPF for the dryer circuit, but I was unable to get it to function correctly (no difference in noise so obviously hooked up wrong) so I disconnected it.