X10 Community Forum
🖥️ActiveHome Pro => ActiveHome Pro General => Help & Troubleshooting => Topic started by: pfeffer on June 28, 2013, 03:55:52 PM
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I've been an X10 user for many years. Several years ago I added a nine module (by Leviton) system to my outdoor living area. I placed 12 inline modules in a water tight electrical box. I have several wireless remotes which operate the receiver. Two years later I encountered problems with the dimming modules. The lights had a flicker (about 30 HZ). That module would turn on but not off. I replaced the module twice and I experienced the same problem after a few days. Do I keep replacing modules, assuming I had a faulty shipment, or troubleshoot using your suggestions?
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Inline modules probably have the Neutral Power wire. They are not the two wire ones that get their power through the load correct?
Do you happen to have the Leviton part number so we have a better idea of what you have?
What type of bulbs? Incadescent, LED, Low Voltage, CFL?
If they worked for a few years and are now giving problems. I would inspect the wiring, connections and the lamps sockets. For corrosion or poor contacts.
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Thanks for the reply; yes, it is a three wire module. The Leviton catalog # is 6376. The bulb type is incandescent encapsulated in a rope. Would I get better results using X10 modules?
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I have three "stupid" questions:
1. Are you sure the bulbs are incandescent?
2. Did you unplug and replug the rope prior to the problem starting?
3. Could anything else be sending X10 commands (including DIM or BRI) commands when you see the flicker? (not on the same HCUC as the rope).
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I doubt X10 modules would work better.
I believe Leviton models have AGC for noise reduction.
Do you have any idea what the total wattage on each 6376? I can't find any minimun wattage for that module.
I know the X10Pro XPDF dimmer fixture module say 40-300 watts. Lower than 40 watts may flicker.
http://www.x10pro.com/pro/pdf/xpdf.pdf
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I believe Leviton models have AGC for noise reduction.
That is true for many of the Leviton wall switches, but the Leviton catalog does not say the fixture modules include "Intellisense". They appear to be an exact clone of the X10 inline modules. They are probably just re-branded X10 devices, like some of the other Leviton modules.
Jeff
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I doubt X10 modules would work better.
I believe Leviton models have AGC for noise reduction.
Do you have any idea what the total wattage on each 6376? I can't find any minimun wattage for that module.
I know the X10Pro XPDF dimmer fixture module say 40-300 watts. Lower than 40 watts may flicker.
http://www.x10pro.com/pro/pdf/xpdf.pdf
The total wattage is 300w. I am up to about 250w.
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I have three "stupid" questions:
1. Are you sure the bulbs are incandescent?
2. Did you unplug and replug the rope prior to the problem starting?
3. Could anyNothing else be sending X10 commands (including DIM or BRI) commands when you see the flicker? (not on the same HCUC as the rope).
1. definitely yes
2. No I did not
3. Only one neighbor close by. Other modules not flickering. What is HCUC?
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HC= House Code
UC= Unit Code
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I have three "stupid" questions:
1. Are you sure the bulbs are incandescent?
2. Did you unplug and replug the rope prior to the problem starting?
3. Could anything else be sending X10 commands (including DIM or BRI) commands when you see the flicker? (not on the same HCUC as the rope).
1. definitely yes
2. No I did not
3. Only one neighbor close by. Other modules not flickering. What is HCUC?
My #3 was actually aimed at your system. I have lights that I can see flicker WHEN my controller is sending commands and thought perhaps that may be what you are seeing on the rope.
In answer to your original question of: "Do I keep replacing modules, assuming I had a faulty shipment". My answer (WAG) is no, but considering your three answers, I am now shooting wadding, so can't help. Sorry
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One thing that might help is a pointer to some specs on your specific incandescent ropes. They're new to me and I suspect to most others here.
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One thing that might help is a pointer to some specs on your specific incandescent ropes. They're new to me and I suspect to most others here.
FWIW typical is one grain o wheat bulb per inch, app 3 watts per foot.
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Here is another FWIW to pfeffer:
Back in the 90's when rope lights were insanely expensive, I made my own by threading minature Christmas lights in a vinyl tube. I drove the 100 foot, home made rope with a Lamp Module. One night I noticed the rope doing an erratic glimmer (not quite a flicker). We had had very heavy rains and several feet of the non waterproof rope was submerged in puddles. (No GFI on that circuit).
Commercial rope should be waterproof, but you don't have any couplings under water, do you?
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I did a check of some vendors. They do make 120 volt incandescent rope lights.
These are 4 watts per foot and a 150 foot roll. That is 600 watts.
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/86543/NEO-033-CL.html
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I found some listed for 120V but also found some on the HomeDepot website that have 5V bulbs.
- http://www.bing.com/shopping/american-lighting-incandescent-30-ft-rope-light-red-120/p/1D6F8C6D766C2FAD5012?q=incandescent+rope+light&lpq=incandescent%20rope%20light&FORM=HURE
- http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-48-ft-Clear-Incandescent-Rope-Light-Kit-ML-2W-48Ft-Ex-E/203652065
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I found some listed for 120V but also found some on the HomeDepot website that have 5V bulbs.
It is still a 120V rope. A 120V buss runs the length of the rope. Short lengths of bulbs are wired in series to add up to line voltage and those short series strings are tied across the 120V buss. So the rope can be cut at intervals at the short length sections (usually 18" or 36" depending on the individual bulbs voltage). LED strings are basically the same only a diode is usually in the line cord that connects to the rope and the connectors are polarized. I have seen other variations but that is the 10K foot view.
As far as pfeffer, I'm WAGing a leak to ground somewhere on the rope, especially if he DIMs the Lamp Module. What he is seeing is close to my experience at a previous home.
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Here is another FWIW to pfeffer:
Back in the 90's when rope lights were insanely expensive, I made my own by threading minature Christmas lights in a vinyl tube. I drove the 100 foot, home made rope with a Lamp Module. One night I noticed the rope doing an erratic glimmer (not quite a flicker). We had had very heavy rains and several feet of the non waterproof rope was submerged in puddles. (No GFI on that circuit).
Commercial rope should be waterproof, but you don't have any couplings under water, do you?
These are commercial rope. They are well above any water; they are lighting for a gazebo.
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I did a check of some vendors. They do make 120 volt incandescent rope lights.
These are 4 watts per foot and a 150 foot roll. That is 600 watts.
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/86543/NEO-033-CL.html
Thanks for your research. I do buy the rope in 150 foot lengths which are cuttable every 18". I believe I am using about 60'.
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These are commercial rope. They are well above any water; they are lighting for a gazebo.
???
You said after you switched switches the rope begin to flicker again after a few days, correct? Have you tried putting the switch you changed out on a load to see if it still flickers?