I have a 3-way application with just two switches. One of the switches is in a hard-to-reach spot in the garage, and I can leave it in an always-on condition. In that event, can I use a single RWS17 to control that light?
Walt,Rob
I have a 3-way application with just two switches. One of the switches is in a hard-to-reach spot in the garage, and I can leave it in an always-on condition. In that event, can I use a single RWS17 to control that light?
Thanks for your help!
Rob
Walt,Rob
I have a 3-way application with just two switches. One of the switches is in a hard-to-reach spot in the garage, and I can leave it in an always-on condition. In that event, can I use a single RWS17 to control that light?
Thanks for your help!
Rob
Yes, If you leave the second switch in the same position all the time (effectively putting it out of service). You will just need to determine in the RWS17 box which wires from the other switch is "hot" (connected to the hot line or to the load through the other switch) and which one is to be dead. Put a wire nut on the dead line, so if someone does accidentally flip the "hard-to-reach" other switch, the unused wire will be insulated.
I don't think you can use a regular 3-way switch in lieu of an X10 companion switch. The reason I believe this, is that when you install an X10 3-way switch, you are actually re-wiring the lighting circuit. Before, there were two load wires (usually one black and the other red). After, there is only one load wire and the other load wire becomes a very-low-current signaling wire. The X10 companion switch doesn't actually switch any of the load current, but instead, just signals the X10 3-way switch to change power on/off states.
The companion switch line lead is connected to the load side of the master. To control the master the companion sends line voltage back to the master on the control wire. If the companions line terminal is on the load side of the master and not the line side. There is no voltage available to send back to the master when the master is off.
The companion switch line lead is connected to the load side of the master. To control the master the companion sends line voltage back to the master on the control wire. If the companions line terminal is on the load side of the master and not the line side. There is no voltage available to send back to the master when the master is off.
I just wired a PLWO2 3-way switch into my garage. I replaced one 3-way switch with the PLWO2 and replaced the other 3-way switch with the PCW03 companion. Here's what I see:
PLWO2 - If I press the button, the light turns on; if I press the button again, the light turns off. Perfect.
PCW03 - If I press the button and the light is on, it turns off; but if the light is off and I press the button, the light does not go on.
Any thoughts on what causes this behavior? Does it have to do with the fact that one of the wires has become a signaling wire?
Thanks!
tl
...Below is a print showing 2 ways to power up a 3-way. The top print is used generally when someone is trying to save money on wire. In my area it is no longer acceptable code to wire it this way for safety reasons.
(http://www.bdshost.com/X10/3wayswitch.gif)
If the colors are wrong, as it was in my house, you'll need to identify the wires.
I think the "power to switch first" option is the most common.
You'll need to disconnect all the switch wires. Once you find the live wire, use it to identify each of the pair of wires between the switches.
This involves selectively twisting the live wire to the other wires and testing at the other switch on the other end. Lable your wires and then use that info to correctly wire the switches.
...How do I find the live wire? I have a simple bulb tester....This is truly a case where a picture would be worth at least 1000 words but I'll do my best.
steven rdave w:
As an retired technical instructor for a "Fortune 20" company, and now a technical procedure writer on a governenment WMD destruction program, I feel qualified to say this is an EXCELLENT step-by-step instruction, and (hint to a CO) should go in some archive for newbie reference.
Thanks for taking the time.
...Thanks for taking the time.Thanks for your thanks.
I just edited it to include a new politically correct term I came up with to go along with WAF.
No but they might work, also. :)I just edited it to include a new politically correct term I came up with to go along with WAF.
Are you referring to the "Seal Of Approval Process" or "Snakes On A Plane"? ;D
I was trying to give folks a little surprise with the description that popped up when they rolled over my anachronism SOAP with their cursor before they took to reading the description that followed. I think the mind absorbs facts easier after it's had a laugh. Also the kid in me likes to see the popups.
...Anachronism? Is SOAP a very old abbreviation then?...Ok I meant "acronym". It passed the spell checker but not the brain filter.
TURN OFF THE POWER.
Remove both switches and position the wires so you can access them with your tester without physically touching them.
Make sure no exposed wires are touching anything and turn on the power.
Use your tester to figure out which of the 6 wires is live. i.e. Ground one lead of the tester and touch each wire till you find the live one. For peace of mind, check them all. Only one wire should be live.
...That part in italics is where things went strange. With the circuit breaker on, I have TWO wires that are live. By live I mean that, when I connect one end of my bulb tester to the bare ground wire, and then touch the other end of the bulb tester to each of the other three wires, two of the three wires are live....First note I've added this following line of caution to my list of instructions and modified the next one.
...What should I do (other than call an electrician)?...If you go back and look at how a a properly wired three-way switch is installed, you'll see that there is no way that more than one wire should be live. That said, if more than 1 of the original 6 wires from the switches is live, you could have a wiring problem.
...Here is a picture that can go along with it. I also gave an explanation of the screws on a 3-way as far as colors and what they are....Thanks KDR for the picture as well as any other thoughts you may have as to why he has more than 1 live wire showing up.
...How do I find the live wire? I have a simple bulb tester....This is truly a case where a picture would be worth at least 1000 words but I'll do my best.
This first step is to get a clear understanding of how the mechanical switches work. If how it works isn't crystal clear in your mind, study the drawing or make a mock up on paper and play with it till it is second nature. Trust me. You'll feel a lot more comfortable when you're looking a 6 different wire ends.
Let's start buy assuming you have the "power to switch first" option. Keep in mind that unlike the drawing implies, a neutral wire will not be connected to the mechanical switch and in the case of an older home may not even be present in the box.
In addition to your tester, you'll need a wire nut or two, some masking tape and a pen to mark the wires. Again it's better not to trust this to memory. You'll be making a half dozen or so trips to the breaker box to turn power on and off so pick a time when you're least likely to lower the WAF or otherwise alarm the SOAP.
Keep in mind at times you'll be working with live current. Ok here we go...
- TURN OFF THE POWER.
- CHECK ALL WIRES AND MAKE SURE THERE IS NO POWER. I learned the hard way that there can be more than one circuit in the box.
- Physically remove the wires from both switches and position the wires so you can access them with your tester without physically touching them.
- Make sure no exposed wires are touching anything and turn on the power.
- Use your tester to figure out which of the 6 wires is live. i.e. Ground one lead of the tester and touch each wire till you find the live one. For peace of mind, check them all. Only one wire should be live.
- TURN OFF THE POWER.
- Use your tape and label that wire Hot.
- Pick one of the remaining 2 wires at the switch and label it A
- Wire nut the Hot wire to the A wire.
- Label the remaining wire B.
- Make sure no exposed wires are touching anything and turn on the power.
- Go to the 2nd switch location and find the wire that is live. Again only 1 wire should be live.
- TURN OFF THE POWER.
- Label the wire you just found A.
- Go back to the 1st switch location and connect the Hot wire to the B wire.
- Make sure no exposed wires are touching anything and turn on the power.
- Return to the 2nd switch location and find the wire that is live. Again only 1 of the 2 remaining wires should be live.
- TURN OFF THE POWER.
- Label the wire you just found B.
- Label the remaining wire Load.
It's been awhile since I had my install adventure but I'm sure if you have the "power to switch first" option and follow the above to the letter, remembering to be careful around the wires when they are live, you'll have your wiring figured out.