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🔌General Home Automation => Original ActiveHome => Topic started by: FixItPete on March 12, 2009, 10:27:42 PM

Title: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: FixItPete on March 12, 2009, 10:27:42 PM
I am trying to install ActiveHome 1.4 v2 on an XP Pro Machine.  I have Serial Port 1 (this is the unit that goes to the serial port, not USB) (older unit).

I can't get it to communicate for the life of me.

Are there are any step-by-step guides that can help.  I've searched my fingers to the bone.  I'm on hold with tech support now... but thought I'd give it a try here.

Thanks,
Pete
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: bitman on March 12, 2009, 11:41:21 PM
Can you not talk to the cm11 at all via AH?
Or are you having trouble talking to modules?
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: FixItPete on March 13, 2009, 08:22:57 AM
I worked with it for 4 hours on my XP Pro machine, I could not get ActiveHome to communicate with the CM11A.

I tried it on a machine that is running Windows 98 and it worked in 2 minutes.

On the XP Pro machine, I have an old external modem on port 1.  I unplugged modem, restarted/shut down plugged in the CM11A, nothing.

I tried all different combos of doing it on the XP Pro machine.  Nothing.

Any ideas for a step-by-step?

Thanks for the reply!

Pete :)
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: FixItPete on March 13, 2009, 09:52:03 AM
Yes!  Properties>Compat.... :)  Works great!
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: bitman on March 13, 2009, 09:52:25 AM
You might want to check this post.

http://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=17491.0
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: bitman on March 13, 2009, 09:54:47 AM
 :)%
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: FixItPete on March 13, 2009, 12:21:50 PM
Ok!  Now why the heck will it control light modules well but NOT appliance modules (3 prong).

? :(
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: bitman on March 13, 2009, 12:30:54 PM
Do the appliance modules work in the sockets that the working lamp controllers work in?
Also do the appliance modules work with nothing plugged into them? - Maybe a noisy device?

It is unlikely that the AH/CM11 setup is the problem. It is more likely to be an power line environmental issue.
You might also un plug all the modules and just plug in an appliance controller.


Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: FixItPete on March 13, 2009, 12:40:02 PM
Yes.  The outlets are hot. ;) (say we use a radio for this example).

you plug the radio in the outlet, it works.
you plug the radio in the x10  am466 and control it from the remote control (ur19a) and it works
you plug the radio in the x10 am466 and control it from the ActiveHome and it does NOT work

:( any ideas?
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: bitman on March 13, 2009, 12:48:00 PM
Not without coming to visit.

There are some nore experienced x10 dudes on this board maybe they can help.
I'm plum outta ideas.
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: FixItPete on March 13, 2009, 01:36:22 PM
I'm being told that it is a "phase coupler" that I need.  Apparently if some items are on circuits on one pole in the breaker box, and others are on the other pole, the CM11 will only work with ones on the pole that it is on...

?
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: FixItPete on March 13, 2009, 01:51:11 PM
Ok.

I can now control things with my remote UR19A
and with my AcitveHome

The only thing I don't get... and I don't know if I should is that say a light is ON with the ActiveHome, and then I turn it off with the UR19A, the little "switch" on the ActiveHome still shows as on?

Isn't it suppose to go to "off" (on the computer display "switch" icon?)?
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: bitman on March 13, 2009, 06:22:35 PM
Only if it's two way module. Not all x10 modules are. Some are receive only and therefor never report back.
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: dave w on March 13, 2009, 07:52:30 PM
Ok.

I can now control things with my remote UR19A
and with my AcitveHome

The only thing I don't get... and I don't know if I should is that say a light is ON with the ActiveHome, and then I turn it off with the UR19A, the little "switch" on the ActiveHome still shows as on?

Isn't it suppose to go to "off" (on the computer display "switch" icon?)?
Yes, If Activehome sees the PLC command to turn a device Off, it will change the icon to OFF indicating what it thinks the status is. From this thread it sounds like you have a noise issue on the CM11 branch, or a coupling issue. The CM11 can't control everything, nor does it "hear" everything.
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: bitman on March 13, 2009, 09:56:06 PM
Ya see?

Smarter than I they are.  :)%
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: FixItPete on March 14, 2009, 11:45:57 AM
I'm seeing a simple signal bridge/coupler, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/X10-PHASE-COUPLER-SIGNAL-BRIDGE-FIX-X-10-PROBLEMS_W0QQitemZ390001932320QQcmdZViewItemQQptZHome_Automation?hash=item390001932320&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

(you simply put it between the two breakers on opposite poles) and it is only $1.00

Or... the ones that I see for about $30.

What is the deal/difference?

Seems sort of odd...
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: Brian H on March 14, 2009, 02:34:18 PM
The one in you link is a simple .1uf cap looks like a 650 Volt DC and the seller said was good for 250 Volts AC.
I had one at one time myself. Only I used a 250 Volt AC X2 type cap designed to be use on power line connections.

In some couplers that may be all that is in them; a capacitor.

Others like the X10 Pro one has a set of tuned transformers in them and is tuned to the X10 line frequency of 120 KHz.

Others have a coil in series with the capacitor to tune it to around 120 KHz. The Smarthome one comes to mind. I found that exact setup in their Dryer Outlet one. A cap and coil in series. Connected to the 30 Amp pass through outlets two Line Pins.

Adding a simple cap may work fine; but is most likely not to code. Most of the preassembled ones also require a set of breakers dedicated to the coupler to meet code. Again some just use an existing set.
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: FixItPete on March 14, 2009, 03:41:09 PM
Thanks!  I think I'm going to go with the one for the dryer pass-through... safer is better. :D

Thanks again!

Pete
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: tom j on March 23, 2009, 11:01:10 PM
You really should consider Pro, think you would LOVE IT.

Tom j.
Title: Re: ActiveHome (not pro?)
Post by: FixItPete on April 07, 2009, 07:52:15 PM
For this location I am going to stick with the old CM11A and the original Pro.  It works well.  I just installed the Booster/Bridge and everything seems to be working perfectly.  I want to fiddle with it some more...

I just ordered a cheap "guaranteed to work" $3.50 USB to Serial cable and software from eBay... if it doesn't work, the person promises to make good... so we'll see.

For a different location, once I'm certain that the CM11A is solid, I'll likely go with the Pro.

We'll see. :D

Just wanted to say thanks to all that helped!

Pete