X10 Community Forum
🔌General Home Automation => Automating Your House => Topic started by: callagga on June 09, 2010, 06:32:13 AM
-
Hi,
Is there a way to monitor say 4 doors and whether they are open/closed, and have a display panel in the kitchen (not a PC), that highlights whether they are open or closed?
Thanks
-
Is there a way to monitor say 4 doors and whether they are open/closed, and have a display panel in the kitchen (not a PC), that highlights whether they are open or closed?
You could monitor four cameras using a Quad Splitter for video (http://www.pelikancam.com/cgi-bin/pelikancam/pqs.htm). That would allow you to see all four doors/cameras at the same time. To receive notice if a door is opened... you may want to look at a DS7000 security alarm (set in the run2 position)... with DS10A's mounted on each door. This would provide a nice chime everytime a door is opened.
There is always a bunch of ways to remove fur from felines... this may be one of them... but there certainly are other options.
I have used a little TV, a video sender, a Home Automation PC (and old saved from the trash P3 XP computer), BVC (http://www.davesdomainonline.com/bvc/bvc.htm) with IR and powermid devices. So activity triggers the proper camera on and BVC (http://www.davesdomainonline.com/bvc/bvc.htm) turns on the TV and annouces the activity. Seen here at YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d78pNoPALZ8
-
What we have here is a DSC security system with the 16-LED keypads. They monitor all doors and accessible windows. A quick glance gives the status of everything. It is a hardwired system, but has worked flawlessly since we built this house 7 years ago. And no batteries!
Jeff
-
You could monitor four cameras using a Quad Splitter for video (http://www.pelikancam.com/cgi-bin/pelikancam/pqs.htm). That would allow you to see all four doors/cameras at the same time. To receive notice if a door is opened... you may want to look at a DS7000 security alarm (set in the run2 position)... with DS10A's mounted on each door. This would provide a nice chime everytime a door is opened.
Don't want a video based solution or one with a PC. So the DS7000 might be ok - do you know whether I could get an obvious indication at a glace (no button pushing) re whether the doors are open by just looking at the DS7000?
-
What we have here is a DSC security system with the 16-LED keypads. They monitor all doors and accessible windows. A quick glance gives the status of everything. It is a hardwired system, but has worked flawlessly since we built this house 7 years ago. And no batteries!
that sounds good - except I can't do wired to some of the points - do you know if there's a wireless options?
-
..... So the DS7000 might be ok - do you know whether I could get an obvious indication at a glace (no button pushing) re whether the doors are open by just looking at the DS7000?
Yes... little lights light up. Plus you can have a pleasent little chime when the doors open... if you choose.
Sorry I misunderstood.... I thought you wanted video at a glance.
-
re DS7000 - actually would it work in Australia? we're on 240V
-
re DS7000 - actually would it work in Australia? we're on 240V
Probably not.
-
What we have here is a DSC security system with the 16-LED keypads. They monitor all doors and accessible windows. A quick glance gives the status of everything. It is a hardwired system, but has worked flawlessly since we built this house 7 years ago. And no batteries!
that sounds good - except I can't do wired to some of the points - do you know if there's a wireless options?
DSC is a maker of professional grade home alarm systems popular here in the states.
I have a DSC PSC1555 panel in my home.
I don't want to put words in Jeff's mouth - but when I saw what you were asking for, I too wondered if you had considered a professional home security system rather than an X-10 based one.
Like Jeff's - mine tells me at a glance of the panel, what zone's are armed/disarmed, what sensors are open, closed. In my house, I didn't wire any windows, just the doors and added two motion sensors to cover the first floor.
And *yes* last time I looked many alarm systems supported a wireless option.
-
Hi,
Is there a way to monitor say 4 doors and whether they are open/closed, and have a display panel in the kitchen (not a PC), that highlights whether they are open or closed?
Thanks
It's not a fancy display panel, but four LM15A Socket Rockets screwed into bulb-to-plug adapters and plugged into a plug strip could provide the visual display unit.
Then either four PF284 PowerFlash units at the doors, or better yet a WGL V572RF32 Transceiver plus four DS10A Door/Window sensors at the doors could provide the X10 signals to actuate the display unit.
-
It's not a fancy display panel, but four LM15A Socket Rockets screwed into bulb-to-plug adapters and plugged into a plug strip could provide the visual display unit.
Then either four PF284 PowerFlash units at the doors, or better yet a WGL V572RF32 Transceiver plus four DS10A Door/Window sensors at the doors could provide the X10 signals to actuate the display unit.
I like this lateral thinking! Only issue would be which of these wouldn't work me in Australia with 240V?
-
The SM10 is a 240 volt PF284 type interface. Not sure if it comes in an Australian type AC power Connector. I know there is a UK version.
There are also LM15 modules for 240 volt use.
-
It's not a fancy display panel, but four LM15A Socket Rockets screwed into bulb-to-plug adapters and plugged into a plug strip could provide the visual display unit.
Then either four PF284 PowerFlash units at the doors, or better yet a WGL V572RF32 Transceiver plus four DS10A Door/Window sensors at the doors could provide the X10 signals to actuate the display unit.
I like this lateral thinking! Only issue would be which of these wouldn't work me in Australia with 240V?
You would use the 240V LM15 version of the Socket Rockets. The WGL V572RF32 is apparently not yet available in the 433.92MHz version, BUT you could use the 310MHz North American version with the 240V XM10 interface and use the very inexpensive North American 310MHz DS10A Door/Window sensors. You would need to check the legality of running 310MHz transmitters in your country, even though the signals from the sensors are intermittent low power and don't propagate very far.
BTW, it is possible to modify a 240V->120V "travel" adapter by adding bypass capacitors so you can run 120V X10 modules, as long as they're very low power. You have to use an adapter which is purely a transformer (no solid state) and these are typically rated around 30 Watts, which would mean your bulbs could be only 7 Watts or less, like night light bulbs.
-
BTW, it is possible to modify a 240V->120V "travel" adapter by adding bypass capacitors so you can run 120V X10 modules, as long as they're very low power. You have to use an adapter which is purely a transformer (no solid state) and these are typically rated around 30 Watts, which would mean your bulbs could be only 7 Watts or less, like night light bulbs.
Thats interesting, however I'd then have to have a travel adapter for each detector point as well as the base station no?
BY THE WAY - With the parts being recommended, is the basic concept to get a: (a) X10 detector for the door, (b) a receiver/transmitter to remote the signal back to base, and then (c) base monitor itself?
-
actually I just come across the GE Choice Alert Control Center & Window/Door Sensor Kit http://www.thehomeautomationstore.com/45142.html (http://www.thehomeautomationstore.com/45142.html)
It seems to be battery based, which whilst not ideal, gets around the 240V issue I suppose. Not sure how reliable a product it would be?
-
BTW, it is possible to modify a 240V->120V "travel" adapter by adding bypass capacitors so you can run 120V X10 modules, as long as they're very low power. You have to use an adapter which is purely a transformer (no solid state) and these are typically rated around 30 Watts, which would mean your bulbs could be only 7 Watts or less, like night light bulbs.
Thats interesting, however I'd then have to have a travel adapter for each detector point as well as the base station no?
No. The DS10A Door/Window sensor is battery powered. You would need the travel adapter only at the display unit.
BY THE WAY - With the parts being recommended, is the basic concept to get a: (a) X10 detector for the door, (b) a receiver/transmitter to remote the signal back to base, and then (c) base monitor itself?
That's the general idea.
If you want a display unit with a more finished look and you're willing and able to construct it using a project box and low voltage lamp sockets or LED pilot lights, an alternative is the WGL Relay8 unit <http://www.wgldesigns.com/relay8.html> which you would use with a 240V XM10 interface and a 240V->12V brick ("wall wart") power supply.
-
thanks Charles & others - I'll still not quite clear on the few things - can I ask:
1) X10 I read is about using existing power cabling to transmit the signals - I've actually said I need wireless from some of the door detectors, however what I really meant to say is it wouldn't be possible to run wires back to the base station. Does this mean their might be a simpler recommendation for me? Or in other words perhaps I don't need true RF/wireless devices, as if I get an X10 detector it would be powered via 240V and the X10 signals would travel back over the home wiring? Or would this be using a reedswitch with a universal sender such as the SM10 that Brian suggested?
2) Re the DS10A (X10, battery based) - So this seems to send out RF (i.e. is battery based) - is this a standard X10 signal that any X10 receivers should able to receive then, or would it need to be a receiver of the same brand?
3) Re the "WGL V572RF32 or 310MHz North American version with the 240V XM10 interface": So here are you trying to identify a receiver that receives RF X10 signals from X10 battery powered detectors which then injects the X10 signals into the power lines? And you're trying to find one that fits Australian frequencies and 240V, is that right? I guess this relates back to my Q1 above too, like would I still need this if the sensors and displays were all X10 based on 240V?
4) Following on from 3) I note there are some cheaper transceivers like Wireless Transceiver Module (TM751), however was the reason you recommended WGL V572RF32 to find something that is 240V based?
5) Following on from 4), I'm still not clear on the XM10 module and what it does. I see from a web site "interfaces third party X-10 compatible hardware to the X-10 - such as alarm controllers, Adicon and other home automation systems". What was the reason for the XM10, was it that I would have to go with a receiver (from Q4) that would required to be powered by 9V, a means to get the X10 signals the transceiver was picking up from remote wireless sensors into the power wiring in my house? If I did have 240V X10 sensors would that have meant I wouldn't need the XM10 module or the receiver?
6) Re the 310MHz North American version - was there a specific model/brand you had in mind for this device? or was the model still the WGL V572RF32 ?
7) In your recommendation what device would actually control things? i.e. what device would map sensor X to turn on lamp 3 for example?
8) Re the LM15 as the display mechanism, are there any X10 alternatives for much smaller bulbs or LEDs?
thanks again for helping me make sense of this stuff :)
-
thanks Charles & others - I'll still not quite clear on the few things - can I ask:
1) X10 I read is about using existing power cabling to transmit the signals - I've actually said I need wireless from some of the door detectors, however what I really meant to say is it wouldn't be possible to run wires back to the base station.
2) Re the DS10A (X10, battery based) - So this seems to send out RF (i.e. is battery based) - is this a standard X10 signal that any X10 receivers should able to receive then, or would it need to be a receiver of the same brand?
3) <skip>
4) Following on from 3) I note there are some cheaper transceivers like Wireless Transceiver Module (TM751), however was the reason you recommended WGL V572RF32 to find something that is 240V based?
I'd like to try a shot at a couple of these! ;D
Caveat reader.
(1) The original X-10 spec sent all the signals over power lines. About 10-15 years ago (give or take) wireless devices were added to the fold. But they often depend on, or leverage the house wiring to do some things. My MS16 motion sensors send RF signals to a TM751 device "M1 On!". The TM751 device has an antenna to receive the transmissions and a plug to plug into a wall socket. The TM751, in turns, puts a powerline signal ("M1 On") onto the house wiring. This way a PLC device, like a CM15 or CM11A can hear the signal and take some action.
(2) My wireless motion sensors (MS14, MS16) send simple, unencrypted signals to a device like a TM751, RR501, CM19. I think the security sensors, like the DS10, use a more complex protocol. The X10 Security System (DS7000??? I think) knows how to pick up these signals. The TM751, RR501, CM19 cannot I believe. The real advantage of the WGL device is not only increased range of reception -- BUT these devices can pick up both the normal X10 RF signals and the security sensor ones -- I think.
(3) See above. I believe there are a handful of advantages to the WGL line: increased reception range, one device picks up all house codes, all unit code, can handle "normal" and security RF protocols -- and you likely end up with a higher quality, better documented, better supported piece of hardware.
I don't own a WGL but that's what I've concluded from my reading.
-
Actually I've come across a X10 Powerflash Interface (http://www.smarthome.com/4060/X10-Powerflash-Interface/p.aspx (http://www.smarthome.com/4060/X10-Powerflash-Interface/p.aspx)) which seems as though with a reed switch I could just tell it to "when door open, send an Turn On Light to address X" and get it to directly turn on say a light using an LM15.
Perhaps this is the simplest way to achieve what I'm after in fact. So if I had 3 doors it could be just I think: 3xPowerFlash units + 3xReedSwitches + 1xLM15 light (or 3xLM15 if I want an individual light per door). This would work wouldn't it?
Haven't found a 240V/European version of the X10 Powerflash Interface yet...
(http://cache1.smarthome.com/images/4060_xyz1.gif)
-
In another thread I believe I gave you a few 240 volt X10 sites.
They do make a 240 volt Powerflash type unit. SM10
-
sorry - must have missed it - thanks - I'm starting to build a document with options to try to keep track of things :)
-
No problem.
I frequently miss things in threads. Worse I sometimes misread and then give a totally off the wall response. ;D
-
Worse I sometimes misread and then give a totally off the wall response. ;D
Sure you can!
Just make sure you use a good quality primer before you paint!!!
rofl
-
A simple solution would be to use 4 magnetic reed contacts connected in to a X10-ADV Inline 6 x Dry Contact Interface.
(see www.envioustechnology.com.au/products/product-detail.php?ID=17 for more information on this).
Then for the non PC display panel - you could use 4 low voltage lights that are switched on & off via 4 X10 Low Voltage Universal Modules.
All of these modules are able to be purchased in Aust.
-
thanks - hadn't see this option aussie mate
By the way, would using powerline for X10 signals using this approach rely on everything using the powerline comms being on the same circuit within the house?
-
It would need to be on the same phase but not the same cct.
Does the house have 3 Phase?
if so - it still depends if the transmitter & receiver are on the same phase.
I have 3 phase and dont have a problem with the signals across phases. I have about 20 x10 modules.
you may either use a phase coupler or a TM13 to retransmit the signals.
-
Does the house have 3 Phase?
Actually how do I tell?