X10 Community Forum
🖥️ActiveHome Pro => ActiveHome Pro General => Software Problems & Bugs => Topic started by: edward s. on April 14, 2005, 06:23:55 PM
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I bought 10 LM465's, AHP, Pan'n'Tilt a week
ago. The CM15A serial is 05C10. My
problem is this: The lamp module will not
work when I "click" the switch in AHP.
However it WILL work with a remote control
(CR12A). The camera's work in AHP, but no
modules. I also purchased the Rocket
Socket and it too will NOT work in AHP,
only by the remote control. I have tried
pluging in the CM15A to the same plug in as
the LM465, I've tried running the software
on my laptop not plugged into any power
source and made sure that my computer and
fax machine were both turned off, still
nothing. How do I know if the CM12A is
working or not? Nothing is being able to
be controlled from it. HELP!
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have you gone into hardware configureation
in AHP and set your monitored house code
(should be the code with the most modules on
it. Then set your transcieved house codes to
auto and download to the interface then
reopen to make sure everything is correct
that should get everything working. make
sure your modules are entered into AHP
correctly as well as this can cause problems
eg: if you have an appliance configured as a
lamp module
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Edward S: Lots to narrow down here:
- What addresses are your modules?
- Are they set correctly in ActiveHome Pro?
- What kinds of modules are they set as in AHP?
- What addresses are your cameras?
- Are you using any other transceivers?
- Do you have a CM19A plugged in also (it
usually comes with PanTilt Pro)?
- If you look in Windows Device Manager
under Universal Serial Bus controllers is
"X10 USB ActiveHome" listed?
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tuicemen-
The hardward configuration did not work for
me. I went to tools-hardware configuration
then clicked "A" on monitored house code
and "AUTO" on transceived house code(s).
Clicked "update interface". Clicked on the
two arrows in the bottom right hand corner,
clicked "yes". Did a file exit, then
restarted AHP and still nothing. Thank you
very much though for the tip on it though.
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X10:
My addresses are as follows. The TM751 is
on "A" Pan'n'Tilt w/XC18A on "A1". Another
XC18A on "A2" and the LM465 on "A3". In
AHP "A1" is module "Ninja Robotic
Mount". "A2" is module "XX11A". "A3" is
module "LM465". Camera A1 and Camera A2.
The only transceiver is the one set
to "A". I do have a CM19A pluged into my
computer and into the VR31 receiver. In
windows device mgr it says "X10 USB Active
Home (ACPI-Compliant). HELP!
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Edward: Try unplugging the CM19A (leave the
ActiveHome Pro interface connected) and see
if that changes your results.
Just to be sure, the CM19A is an USB
transmitter/receiver; it's black and about 2
1/2 inches square.
The VA11A is a the USB Video Capture device
that connects from the video receiver and to
your computer. It has a yellow video
connector at one end, a USB plug at the
other, and a black box about 1 1/2 inches by
3 or 4 inches in the middle. You can leave
that plugged in.
You can also try plugging the LM465 (A3) into
the outlet where you have one of the cameras
working and see if that changes your results.
Just unplug the camera power supply, plug in
the LM465, and flip its switch on the screen.
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X10:
I was mistaken. I did not receive the
CM19A with the Pan'n'Tilt. I received the
VA11A. Should I have received the CM19A?
As for plugging in the LM465, it is
connected directly next to the Pan'n'Tilt
camera. I have complete control of the
camera via AHP and the CR14A. Your help on
this is appreciated very much. It puts my
mind to ease a little knowing that someone
is here to help me, even after I've read
all the negative posts about the CS at
X10. Thank you.
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Still needing help on this. I've read that
some people can only get the CM15A to
control switches and not the controller,
I'm just the exact opposite. I would
really like to get this solved soon please!
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If you turn the camera off with a remote
control , can you turn it back on using AHP?
I ask that because the pan/tilt controls on
the camera are RF only, and it sounds like
powerline commands aren't working for some
reason, where RF commands are. It takes a
powerline command to turn a camera on or off
(except for Vanguard cameras).
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X10:
I have the transceiver hooked up on "A" and
when I tried putting the module in AHP it
as well does not work. The only thing I
can get AHP to work is controlling the
pan'n'tilt making it go left/right,
up/down. I'm also having problems getting
it to switch from A1 camera to A2 camera
without using the CR12A remote control, but
that's another issue I'll address later.
Right now I just want to press my mouse
button over the switch to make a light come
on. I pluged the transceiver in numerous
outlets and was able to get great responses
via the CR12A remote, but nothing on AHP.
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Edward S. said:
"...Right now I just want to press my mouse
button over the switch to make a light come
on. I pluged the transceiver in numerous
outlets..."
I know this will sound like a silly question
but is your CM15A hooked up to your computer
with the USB cable all the time?
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Martin:
Yes, fresh batteries too.
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Edward S.
The problem is your tm751 it only recieves
RF so you can't have a cam on it I had the
same problem. Set cam to A2 & A3 or take
your tm751 out of the mix. Is it configured
right in AHP (set as a transciever not a
appliance module)
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tuicemen:
Thank you, but that as well did not turn my
lamp module on. I'm having the problems
with lamp modules, not camera modules. I
really wish someone was in or near Kansas
City that could come over and help me.
Like I said when I press the A4 button on
my hand held remote control, the light goes
on and off and AHP shows it doing so.
However when I use AHP to turn A4 on or
off, I get no response at all. I'm not
frustrated yet, but I'm gettin' there.
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"...the light goes on and off and AHP shows
it doing so.."
Is it when you look at the Activity Monitor
or the actual AHP UI where you can see the
lamp switch toggling back and forth?
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Yes, I can see the commands in the activity
log and the UI shows the switch flipping on
and off.
Now here's something new that just
happened. I put my cameras on channel B
along with the TM751, nothing happened. I
switched them all back to A and the TM751
NOW responds to AHP. However the LM465 is
still dead in the water. But at least I
know that the CM15A works, kinda sorta.
Any ideas on what might have caused it to
now work and not the lamp module? They are
both on the same power line.
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It's an important distinction that you can
move the pan/tilt camera, but not switch
between cameras. As I said before, pan/tilt
commands are sent by RF, and camera switching
commands are on the powerline. The TM751 only
responds to RF commands. It sounds like your
CM15A is sending RF, but not powerline commands.
Do you have a power strip that will fit both
the CM15A and the LM465 on it? If so, try
plugging the power strip into a different
outlet than you've been using, and plug the
CM15A and LM465 into that. Try controlling
the lamp. If it doesn't work I'd say you
probably need to exchange the CM15A interface.
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Ok, now we're gettin somewhere. What you
suggested worked! Hallelujah!! BUT, :)
there's always that but in there, but I can
only control off of that power strip which
is across the room from my computer. Right
now I have an extension cord running to the
CM15A that is plugged into the computer.
Not really safe considering I have a 75lb
dog that'll trip on it and pull everything
out. So now that we've discovered that
problem, what can I do to get things
running on the same line? I thought I read
somewhere that someone downloaded the
commands to the CM15A and the plugged it
into another receptacle somewhere else in
the house. Anyway, I'm just glad I'm able
to see the darn thing work for the first
time in 5 days! Hallelujah Hallelujah
Hallelujah. Thank you, we're closer to
getting this to work!
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Glad we were able to confirm that that CM15A
works! It sounds like something where you had
it plugged in originally is blocking or
absobing X10 powerline commands. Other
posters here have noted that laptop power
supplies often do this, and we know that some
PC power supplies and UPSs do as well.
You can try to isolate the problem by
unplugging or filtering things until the
problem goes away, but that might not be
practical.
If controlling things from the computer isn't
a requirement for you, then you can program
timers and macros into the interface,
disconnect it from the computer, and use it
from another outlet. Make sure you have
batteries in the interface when you move it.
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Can you explain "filtering"? I saw that
there are unit's available to cross
sections of the house is that a
possiblity? The only wall recepticle by
the computer has a 10 outlet surge
protector on it that is almost completely
filled. Most of the plug-in's I need for
my home office equipment (printer, fax,
etc). I'd really like to continue to use
the computer as things change on a daily
bases around here for now. I guess I can
find another outlet and hook it up to the
laptop? But I'd prefer to contiune to use
the desktop if possible. X10, I can't
thank you enough, as well as the rest of
the people on this forum for helping me
these past few days to get this up and
running. Being a little skepticle after
I've read all the "bad press" from others
kinda scared me, but every product does
have its ups & downs. It's the customer
service reps that make or break the
company! Many thanks to all. We're 95%
there!
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A plug-in filter is used to isolate something
that is causing problems with your X10
system. You plug the device that causes the
problem into the filter, and then plug the
filter into the wall. It's pretty simple.
We have the X10 Pro plug-in filter (XPPF),
and there are other companies that make
filters too.
You might just try different outlets that are
near the computer, and see if they work.
Sometimes the problem can be fairly localized.
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Edward S:
It does sound like you are running into
noise on the power line. While this is
a somewhat common, every installation is
different, and will require different
solutions.
Filtering has already been suggested,
and is a good idea, especially when you
have computer equipment, electronics (TV's),
office equipment, and surge suppressors.
I know from experience that all of the
SurgeMaster brand power strips wreak havoc
with X10 signals.
Obviously, having additional outlets
installed is always preferred, however
if you must use power strips, you're
probably better off doing this:
Get yourself a 15 Amp / Heavy Duty X10 filter
from on-line. I think they are about $30 or
$35 from Smarthome. Check on e-Bay as well.
(Watch carefully. Some are only rated for
5 amps - these units are OK for single
appliances, but not for multiple devices.)
Unplug whatever is in the WALL OUTLET.
Plug your X10 Filter into the BOTTOM
socket. Then plug the POWER STRIP
(with all of your computer stuff, etc.)
into the bottom of the X10 Filter.
(Note that some filters have a FILTERED
outlet, and an UNFILTERED outlet on it.)
Take another power strip, with LITTLE OR NO
SURGE SUPRESSION (just a plain-jane power
strip), and plug that into the TOP outlet.
Plug your CM15A, and any other X10 modules
into that power strip.
This will put all of your (electrically)
noisy computer equipment behind the filter,
and leave your X10 equipment UNfiltered.
Note that there MAY be other noise-causing
devices in the house, which may need to be
addressed separately.
T
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Tigger:
Thanks for the great tip. Tomorrow I'm
going to unplug everything but the computer
power cord and the monitor cord and see if
that helps. Then I'll start unplugging all
non-necessary stuff around that side of the
house. I'm on my laptop now on the other
side of the house and I'm able to control
all but one of the lamps for now. It's the
lamp that is connected to the surge
protector where the cameras are at. I'm
just happy right now that I can have a
little "mood" lighting. Of course I've
already set a "wish list" for another $500
that'll I'll gradually HAVE to get. Thank
you again EVERYONE for the awesome help
I've received! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK
YOU!
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Don't forget - with some brands of surge
protectors (SurgeMaster II in particular),
the interference is coming FROM THE
SURGE PROTECTOR ITSELF, and just having
the surge protector plugged into the wall
can cause problems, even if nothing is
plugged into it.
T
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Well this morning I tried unplugging all my
computer equipment and tv's, cable modem,
etc... No go. I remembered someone said
that if a 220v appliace was on, the
circuits were joined or something like
that. So I went and turned on my stove
burner, nothing.... then I turned on the
oven and Viola! So is this where a filter
would still come in at? I was reading
about an in-line connector filter and
looked at my electrical box. I don't think
I could go that route since my electircal
box is the OLD fashioned screw in type bus
fuse. Would the 15 Amp plug in filter help
with this as well? Do I need to buy one
for each of the wall recepticles that
aren't receiving commands, or should I buy
one for every recepticle that I use
anyway? Thanks again for your awesome help!
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Edward S.
If turning your oven on made your devices
work, then you don't need a filter, you
need a phase coupler. They sell one that
plug into your clothes dryer outlet. They
also sell combo units, phase
coupler/repeater. The cheapest i've found
them were at Automated Outlets web site.
Hope this helps,
T.
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The hard-wired phase couplers are the
least expensive, but more work to install.
If installed near the breaker box, they
would have a slight advantage, since the
signal wouldn't have to travel as far
to make the jump over to the other phase,
and there wouldn't be as many junctions
involved. . .
The units that plug into the dryer outlet
are more expensive, but obviously alot easier
to install. Probably the better solution,
unless your dryer is more than 50 feet away
from your breaker box.
I wouldn't throw a signal repeater at
the problem just yet.
T
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Try going with the phase coupler first.
Once you get one installed, if you are
still having problems with modules, then
it's probably time to look a little closer
at noise / distance factors, and possible
filtering.
(What made me agree with the filtering
solution in the first place was that you
had indicated that you had plugged the
CM15A into the same outlet as the LM465.
This SHOULD have worked, unless there was
a noise problem, or something wasn't
configured properly.)
T
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Phase coupler it is then! Can I use the in-
line coupler with the type of fuse box that
I have? It's really not a box, more of a
panel. It's a 55+ year old house that
hopefully we'll be able to move out of in a
few years. I don't mind doing the
electrical work as long as the instructions
are clear and percise. I'll have to
measure how far the dryer is from the
breaker panel though. I would say it's not
more than 40 feet though. Thank you all
for your help. You all might not work for
x10, but they should definatley think about
compensating you all for the help your
given not only me, but the others as well.
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You could always try the dryer coupler
first. That way, you don't have to modify
anything. Just unplug your dryer, plug it
into the module, and plug the module into
the wall.
If you want the hard-wired version,
it's always best to have a licensed
electrician install it.
Of course, if your electrician needs
some pointers, here is what I'd tell him:
Get a volt-meter, and measure the AC
voltage across TWO adjacent 15 or 20 Amp
fuses, until you get a reading of 230-240
Volts. Keep track of these fuses.
Pull your MAIN fuse cartridge,
and attach the black wire from your coupler
to one of the 15/20 Amp fuses. Connect the
other black (possibly red) wire to the other
fuse. If your phase coupler has a neutral
(white )wire, connect it to the neutral
bus bar. If it has a ground, connect it to
the grounding bar, which may be the same
as the neutral bar in some homes.
The NEC doesn't allow circuitry inside the
fuse box, so it is best to use Romex, BX,
or conduit, and install a separate junction
box to enclose the coupler. Some couplers
mount inside the box, just like a switch
or an outlet, and can be hidden behind
a blank plate.
T