X10 Community Forum
🛡Home Security => Home Security General => Topic started by: jeff on March 11, 2005, 03:25:20 PM
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I have the new RadioShack security system
(49-1000) and purchased a X-10 Powerhouse
Powerhorn siren and tried it with the
system and it doesn't work. I have a lamp
module that works fine and both the siren
and the lamp module are set the same. I
plugged the siren into the lamp module and
I can hear the siren buzzing when I use
the remote to turn the module on and off
but no siren sounds. Any suggetions?
Thanks!
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As an addendum to this message, I can plug
the siren into any outlet in the house and
it sounds after 2 cycles of the on-off on
the remote. What could be keeping it from
sounding when the console alarm is
triggered? The lamp module makes the light
go on and off so I know that signal is
being sent.
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maybe the feature that flashes two lamp
codes and the second one confuses the
powerhorn. As I described in the other
thread. Hope to have a few tests done
tomorrow, with a powerhorn and a controller
that can be sequenced.
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Ensure the horn is on the same housecode. Use
unit code 13, just incase it's one of the
older systems. I don't know why it wouldn't
work. Hmm.
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Using the bigger brother PH508 set to A6 and
using the next highest A7. I tried some
tests and think depending on the order the
RS unit sends the Lamp ON-OFF sequence. The
powerhorn may not work when the console
triggers, Sending the dual lamp ON-OFF
sequences. You may want to try an
exoeriment. Set the powerhorn to the same
address as the button 1. Then start sending
button 1 on; button 2 on; button 1 off and
button 2 off. See if you then trigger the
powerhorn.
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Oh another test to see if both lamp
addresses are being sent. If you have an
extra lamp module. Address it to the next
higher unit address from what the console
lamp unit address is set to. That should be
the second unit address used for the second
lamp flashing. Then trigger the console and
see if both the main lamp unit address and
next unit address flash lights when
triggered. You maybe even able to watch the
lamps to see the sequence of commands.
Remember if the main lamp address is unit 16
the second one will be unit 1
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Here is what I have discovered. The
powerhorn siren has to be set on A - 1 for
the remote to turn it on and off. Here's
the interesting part and maybe someone can
figure this out - when I use the on-off
sequence on the remote after 2 times the
alarm sounds. I noticed when my console
alarm is triggered, the light on the light
module flashes on and off slowly (2-3
seconds between on and off) but when I was
pushing the on-off buttons on the remote, I
was doing it faster (.5 - 1 second
between). When I slowed down to 2 - 3
seconds between on and off on the remote,
the powerhorn siren didn't sound. What can
I do to speed up the console signal? (By
the way, I tried unit code 13 and it didn't
work and I only have 1 lamp module).
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Is the lamp module also on A1? Try moving
the lamp module to A2 and see if it also
flashes when the console is triggered. By
the way A1 is the default for most X10
stuff. So if you didn't change the settings
in the menu A1 is what will be sent out.
Another test. Without changing the console
defaults. Set the siren on A2 and use button
2 on the remote. That will show if A2 is the
second address in default settings.
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To set the House and Unit Codes along with
the lamp addresses. In the Main Menu. The
Options choice gives you a second set of
choices. That is where you set the house
code, unit code for the lamps etc. If not
set I believe A1 is the first lamp address
and A2 is the second. The second unit
address is one above the first one as only
it can be set. If the first unit is 16 then
the address loops back and the second
adderss is 1
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If the console is sending two addresses when
triggered it maybe confusing the siren
module and it may not work with that system.
First lets see what you find in the other
tests before we do other things.
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The console was set for A1 and the lamp
module is A1. I changed the siren to A2 and
it doesn't sound but the B button on the
remote makes it sound if I press the on-off
buttons fast enough. Any other ideas?
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I am fairly sure that your console sends
both addresses when tripped. You could set
the lamp module on A2 just to see if it also
flashes when the console is tripped.
From your description it sounds like the
console you have is sending the ON-OFF codes
to both A1 and A2 one after the other. This
maybe too slow for the SH10A to respond or
the second code maybe canceling the proper
sequence for it to trip. I know that my
tests with the big brother PH508 was very
touchy if I sent the code it was on and then
the next highest.
R.S. Sells the SH10A and says it is
compatible with the 49-25551 Security
Console. Which sure looks like the DS7000
X10 Security Console. Your model was not
listed as compatible with the SH10A, but
sometimes web pages are not current. Will be
thinking and may have more ideas.
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I tried the siren on A1 and the lamp on A2.
The lamp still flashes but the siren
doesn't sound. I told the RS person I
ordered the siren from what system I had
and they didn't say it wasn't compatible.
But, they probably wouldn't know. If I had
a way to shorten the on-off signal from the
console I believe the siren would work.
But, I don't see any way to change that.
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Yes I also believe that the added time
needed to flash the second lamp address. Is
making the ON-OFF cycle to the SH10A too
long and it times out. Could also be that
the extra address in the mix may reset the
SH10A. I didn't see any choices like flash
only one lamp address in the setup. I also
think if the lamp address was for a single
one the SH10A would work as advertised. If I
think of anything I will post it. Hope maybe
another mind on this from another user may
have your solution.
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Do you think the PH508 siren would work
with this system or does it work on the
same basic principle as the SH10A?
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I would not count on it. As it also counts
on the ON-OFF cycle to trip it.
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Jeff; I liked the looks of the R.S. 49-1000
and have one on order. All my local R.S.
stores where out of it. Anyway. In maybe a
week or so; but I will gladly try a PH508 on
the system and give you the results when it
arrives.
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Thanks Brian I appreciate it!
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Jeff; I have not forgot the tests. Expect to
run them over the weekend.
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OK
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OK Jeff and others;
The Radio Shack 49-1000 kit will not fire
the SH10A or the PH508. I used the X10
signal display of my software [not an X10
Software or Controller]. Both X10 Powerhorn
devices trip from a House/Unit Code sequence
of ON and OFF sent at least 2 times; with a
palmpad controller. OK the RS at default
settings sends the following when triggered.
A1 ON
A2 ON
A OFF [Believe it is the All Units Off
Command]
The sirens will never trigger on this type
of string being sent.
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Oh almost forgot. I had a PH508 online to
see if it would trip. It did not; as I
expected after seeing the codes being sent
on the powerline.
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I've been following this thread trying to
work out some "querks" with the RS 49-1000 as
well. I've also contacted Radio Shack tech
support about the issue. I was pretty
surprised all they could state is that it is
a "compatibility issue" and although they
clearly advertise the unit on their website
and on the box as being expandable to
external sirens they haven't been able to
tell me anything more. RS has not been able
to comment on if or when they will have this
issue resolved (I imagine the most feasable
way would be to issue a compatible siren
obviously, where they'll probably have to
collaberate with X10). I was told by a
Radioshack guy that X10 and Radioshack had a
"falling out" at one point where Radioshack
decided to design their own unit (the RS
49-1000), not sure how true this is. Anyway
I'm just pretty dissappointed that all RS
could say is "try it" with no specifics on
the issue or when or if they will resolve it.
Additionally they continue to falsely
advertise the product to be expandable to
external Sirens (a major deciding factor for
me personally). I purchased the smaller
powerhorn and have been able to get it to
work however it sounds for 10 seconds then
shuts off. I'm pretty torn, I kind of want to
take it back to RS for a refund since it will
not work properly however I also have some
hope that somehow I might be able to get it
to work properly. I wonder if there is some
sort of trick to get this to work properly. I
really like this alarm, the features, its
consistency for a wireless alarm, the price
and overall design execept this issue. I've
sent RS another email to ask more about the
issue and to express my dissatisfaction with
an otherwise very satisfactory unit (I doubt
they'll respond). I really hope one of us
will come up with something! Brandon
dintrepidsg02@hotmail.com
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My SH10A maybe here by this weekend. I will
do some tests, but I feel it is the fact
that the 49-1000 sends the two security
codes in sequence; causes them to not count
the ON OFF cycles and bomb out.
My comments on X10 and RS are in your other
message thread. X10 made the 49-1000 to RS
Specfications as the FCC ID B4S shows and is
the X10 Prefix.
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Jeff; My test results are in Brandon's
message thread. You may find it interesting.
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Thanks, I do understand the root of the
problem as you've been so kind to check out
and explain your findings. I know you're
still testing this issue. So the RS 49-1000
is actually made by X10 per FCC ID? If
that's the case then that's even more
dissappointing to me (the fact that it
doesn't work with its own brand of devices
it is supposed to work with if that's the
case). Thanks again and I'm sure you'll keep
us updated on any further findings! Brandon
dintrepidsg02@hotmail.com
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The 49-1000 is an OEM for RS and as such may
or may not be 100% compatible with X10 stuff.
The B and D Freewire line was also an OEM
from X10 and only the modules are X10 Line
Signal compatible. The Freewire RF Remotes
and Tranceiver [Messenger Hub] are not
compatible with X10 remotes. Different
frequencies and the Freewire hub actually
has to learn the remote like X10 Security
remotse are learned by the console.
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I too have the problem of "X-10 SH10A Powerhorn siren not working"
First of all, i would like to know if the system that i am trying to work is compatible with each other.
Item Model
Security console: PS561
Motion Sensor: MS10A
Power Horn Siren: SH10A
Transceiver: TM751
I have bought the Transceiver and am plugging PowerHorn in to the outlet of said Transceiver. does PowerHorn work without Transceiver or it will work with the Transceiver only? I have tried by plugging PowerHorn to different outlets but doens't work.
Pls assist in setting up my powerhorn.
Regs, Hassan
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dheeni
You know the PowerHorn doesn't just sound when you send an ON signal, right? The signal must be a constant ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF.
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It should sound when the Security Console is tripped. It must be on the same house code as the security console is set to.
As mentioned it only trips on a 1 second alternating on; off of the address it is set to or an all lights on; all lights off on the house code it is set to.
It will not go on with a single on signal. The signals are on the power line so the TM751 is not needed to trip it but can be used for other RF devices you may have.
The DS10A will not directly trigger a powerhorn. It has to trigger the console that then sends out the All Lights On all Lights off cycle to trigger it and any security lights you have.
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Thanks for the reply.
I have tried every possible way but still it's not working.
I have set up the House Code of all the Three; Remote Control, Security console: PS561 and PowerHorn Siren: SH10A to A. Unit Code of PS561 and SH10A are set to 13. With different unit codes like Unit Code of PS561 at 11 and SH10A at 9 too was tried. Tried to turn it on while alarm was going on and when it was off by pressing ON-OFF button repeatedly but the SH10A doesn't wake up. Thinking that I have got a defected PowerHorn, I bought two complete sets, yet to no avail. I wonder where I am making the mistake.
How do I know if PowerHorn is properly configured with Security console: PS561? If there is no connectivity how does the PowerHorn function?
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The powerhorn works on a X10 signal sent over the power line. Try it in a different outlet as you may have a problem with where it is located. You could try it in the same outlet as the console but if it triggers it can be extremely loud. Watch you hearing if you try this.
You must send the on and off at about 1 second intervals. If you use the console local buttons the address must be the same house and unit codes as the sirens address. If the console is alarming it sends an All Lights On All Units off sequence. In that case the house code must match.
Also if you send one On to the sirens address and then a dim or bright command is should ding with a bright and dong with a dim.
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Brian,
I have treid with different outlets. and tried with the same outlet that of the console. sent On and Off at 1 second intervals, Unit codes and House codes are set same. there is neither ding, nor dong.
for further assistance kindly PM me. I am in real trouble.
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If they will not even trigger on the address set to in the same outlet as the console. They sound defective.
Do you have any other X10 modules that you can control with the console and do they work? That would show the console was sending x10 power line signals.
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dheeni - You don't list what Security Remote(s) you have. You can only disarm the system with a remote. For this test, I'll assume you have a KR10A KeyChain remote. The SH624 also works for this, but remember the MS10A is only "armed" when you ARM-AWAY, when you ARM-HOME, they will NOT trip the alarm.
Back to the beginning. For a test:
Unplug the console & remove the battery.
Set the H/C of the Console to "L" and set the UnitCode U/C to "5"
Set a lamp module to L5.
Plug a lamp into the L5 module.
Plug the L5 lamp module into a 2-plug wall socket - the same socket you're going to plug the console into.
Manually turn the lamp ON.
Plug in the console to the same wall socket.
You should now have both the L5 module (with the light ON) and the console plugged into the same 2-plug wall socket. Don't use extension cords or power strips.
Move the Install/Run-1/Run-2 switch to INSTALL.
Press the button on the back of the MS10A. The console should "DING" and the first position's red LED should come on. Set the 1-2 switch on the back of the MS10A to "1"
Press the DISARM button on the KR10A keychain remote. The console should "DING" to indicate it was registered.
Move the Install/Run-1/Run-2 switch to RUN-1. The top red LED (indicating where you installed the MS10A) should go out.
Press the ARM button on the keychain remote. The console should "DING" and the red ARM LED should light.
Create movement in front of the MS10A until its red LED flashes on & off.
The alarm should sound and the lamp should go on and off.
If you've programmed the dialer, the console should make the call.
If you do nothing, the alarm should sound for 4 minutes then stop & reset itself.
If you press DISARM on the KR10A, the alarm should stop, the light (L5) should be on, and the top red LED (where you installed the MS10A) should be on,and the ARMed LED should be flashing on the console. Pressing Lights-OFF on the KR10A should turn L5, and the console's red LED's off.
At any time (except during an alarm) pressing LIGHTS-ON on the KR10A should light the L5 lamp (and all other lamps addressed to L5).
IF that worked - move the L5 module & lamp to a different socket and see if the KR10A Lights-ON & Lights-OFF works. The console is picking up the RF from the KR10A and TRANSCEIVING the signal into PLC (PowerLineCommands) - and sending them out over its power cord and through your house wiring to the L5 module(s). If you move the L5 module to a socket where the light DOESN't turn on & off either by the alarm sequence, or by pressing the KR10A's buttons, then you have a signal strength or a PHASE problem - (read about them elsewhere in this forum).
If moving your L5 lamp & module around works OK, set the address of the SH10A to L5 (same as the lamp) and plug it into a socket where you've successfully tested the lamp.
Put in your ear plugs! No, I'm not kidding.
Arm the console and trip the alarm. While the L5 Lamp is flashing on & off, the PowerHorn should start up. Sometimes it takes a few seconds before it gets going.
If the PowerHorn is addressed the same "L5" and it's plugged into a KNOWN good socket (where the lamp did work), and if the lamp at L5 is flashing on & off - if the PowerHorn stays quiet, you have a defective PowerHorn.
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P.G. Nice easy to follow troubleshooting post.
A Thanks For The Help click from me.
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Thanks for you detailed explanation.
Unfortunately the idea of trying Lamp Module too didn't work. Lamp lights up when it is plugged to the Module directly. The console worked well when followed the instructions. The only thing is that there is no connectivity between the console and the lamp module. Both are working individually.
You may note that I am not in States but in the republic of Maldives. Our standard Electricity Voltage is 230 but these units are for 120. Thus, I am using 230V to 120V converters to supply electricity. And also, I am using extension cords as there are no 120V socket outlets. Now, I am forced to believe that all this is due to the said converter. If so, pls advice how to get it working with 230V. I have bought 2 sets as below assuming that my first set had some problem. But am unable to get it going with the second one either.
Specs:
Voice Dialer Console (PS561)
Compact PowerHorn Siren (SH10A)
Door/Window Sensor (DS10A)
Lamp Module (LM465)
Security Motion Detector (MS10A)
Security Remote Control (SH624)
Security Keychain Remote (KR10A)
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I'm not qualified to say (or even think of) how to figure out your issue. I just know that if you can't get the light to flash, you won't get the PowerHorn to sound.
There are other guys here more qualified than I am who will help you.
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If the converter is a transformer that steps down the voltage from 230 to 120 it may not be passing the X10 signals. If it is a electronic circuit. It maybe making so much noise the signals are swamped.
Do you have any idea whet the converters consist of?
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Hello Brian,
The Label in it reads as follows
NF-80
FOREIGN ELECTRICITY CONVERTER
80WATT Max
INPUT: AC 110V 50/60Hz OUTPUT: AC 220V
INPUT: AC 220V 50/60Hz OUTPUT: AC 110V
AUTOMATIC THERMAL FUSE PROTECTION
The converter is a transformer that steps down the voltage. So, what should i do now?
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I have rectified the problem. It's all due to the voltage converter and I have managed to sort it out now.
This could have been sorted out long back if Ms. Jean of X10 did not misguide me initially asking me to buy transceivers which I did unnecessarily.
Thank you Brian and PG for your prompt responses and support.
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Glad you got the problem solved.
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I have rectified the problem. It's all due to the voltage converter and I have managed to sort it out now.
This could have been sorted out long back if Ms. Jean of X10 did not misguide me initially asking me to buy transceivers which I did unnecessarily.
Thank you Brian and PG for your prompt responses and support.
Hey dheeni: I have the same problem here, how exactly did you fixed the problem???...