X10 Community Forum
🛡Home Security => Home Security General => Topic started by: leo on May 23, 2005, 02:30:57 PM
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I purchased RS 49-1000 and I assume X10
manufacture it for Radio Shack. The siren
is not loud enough and I was wondering if I
can open the box, disconnect the wire to the
buzzer and run external wire to outdoor
siren. Has anyone tried this?
Thanks
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You can disble the internal one in setup as
you know. Guess you could do that, but don't
know how much power the drivers in the unit
supplies. You probrbly also have read the
threads on sirens and the 49-1000 problems
with the SH10A; PH508 and the Sonic S-300
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no, i do not know the problems with RS and
power horn, can u please let me know.
I was just going to buy:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=49-1120
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They basically don't work as they expect a
All Lights ON and a All Units Off command
from the console or a House-Unit Code On -
Off on the address they are set to. Example
if Powerhorn set to B1. Either a B All
Lights ON B All Units Off or a B1 BOn B1
BFww will trigger them. The 49-1000 sends
two Security Light Codes the one set like B1
and the next highest B2. The timing is not
correct to trigger either the SH10A or the
PH508. Also the Sonic SS-300 doesn't like
the 49-1000 either. There are about 4 other
threads in this forums area that explain it
better from some tests I have run with both
a DS7000 and 49-1000 using both a PH508 and
a SH10A.
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Most of the threads where started by Brandon.
Some may have scrolled to page two here in
the security area. Most refference the 49-
1000 or a siren issue with the 49-1000. Yes
X10 did OEM the 49-1000 as all the FCC
numbers are granted to X10 Wireless Inc. I
have found that most of the security modules
except the powerhorns seem to interchancge
between them.
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Long weekend and hope to have time to tinker
with both a PH508 and a SH10A
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My poor results are in Brandon's message
thread about the 49-1000 and sirens.
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Brian,
Thanks for trying anyways... I am going to
look in to other solutions.
later,
leo
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Good hope you can find one.
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Of course it can be disconnected, and it
will also void your warranty. But who cares
its probably already yours. 1. Disconnect
internal siren by cutting wires to it or
desoldering pins. 2. Find out what voltage
is used by siren. It more than likely is a
DC voltage using minimal current draw.
However current draw is not a concern.
Voltage may be stamped on existing siren or
just measure it with a meter. 3. Connect
relay coil of proper voltage to connections
of removed siren. Radio Shack or
electronics supply house should have relay.
(May need to observe polarity here). 4. Get
proper transformer for new siren and wire
in series to Common and Normally Open relay
contacts. Start with Negative of
transformer and connect to negative on
siren. Connect positive of transformer to
Common of relay. Connect Normally Open of
relay to positive of siren. Oh, don't
forget to plug in transformer. And that's
it.
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For #2. The internal sounder is a Pizo type
and uses a high voltage with almost no
current to drive it. Most relays will not
work.
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You say most,Is there one that will work
for Leo who posted original message. I know
there all all kinds of relays out there
including reed relays. What is the voltage
to piezo and how much current does it draw.
Have you personally done this?
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hi ,
yes brian did series of tests but we were
not successful. I think the voltage is around
23v and not sure exactly about the current.
I think part of the problem was to come
up with the relay which fired off the circuit.
Personally I gave up, i end up
getting 2 buzzers, draw 2 wires from the unit
to the buzzers and place the buzzer outside
of my house. It does not sound that great
but it is loud enough to draw attention.
Also the unit dials numbers with in 1 sec
which is kind of cool. Since i had the unit,
we had only one false alaram while my
neighbour was kind enough to come outside of
her house (plus the unit called my office).
So i guess, i gave up on it:-) still a
good solution for alarm for under $100.
better than noting.
leo
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Not on the DS7000. On the PH508 and SH10.
Both have the same sounders. The voltage is
a distorted [on a scope] 50 volt ball park
AC wave form that even my meter loaded down.
Meter roughly 25 to 30 volts AC. Anyway I
used 4 Fast Recovery Diodes in a Bridge. A
22 Uf cap to filter it and a 24 volt extra
sensative relay. Can look up the realy if
you want me to. In my tests it loaded down
the internal sounders, but in your case you
want to disconnect the internals.
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I Built a good external alarn for the 49-
1000 and it does not load the enternal
sounder down. Feed the output into a full
bridge. Put a .1@50 v cap accross + &-. Put
a 20k trim pot accross that and trigger the
alarm and adjust the wiper output to 15v
with ref to -. Now connect the wiper to a
1k resistor and connect it to the gate of
IR510(RadioShack. Tie source to minus and
drain to a 12v relay.Put a .1 cap accross
gate to - just to make sure any noise
filtered. Supply 12v to oposite side of
relay. The 12v can also go thru relay
contacts to power a Radio Shack two tone
Siren Siren. This circuit is working great
for me and it is verry loud.
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Good job Robert .... Mystery Solved ! Any
idea how much you want to build another one? :-)
ps. Does the relay shut off the circuit after
the alarm is disactivated? I assume all the
power source is from 12V battery, so it is
safe, right ?
leo
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Sounds good.
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When the internal alarm stops the rectified
voltage is gone and the fet turns off
letting the relay drop out thus external
siren turns off. I Use a 12volt 500MA plug
in power supply to power the relay circuit
and the siren. It stays powered all the
time so that when the bridge rectifier sees
the signal, it turns on the relay which in
turn switches on the siren. I used four
1N4007 Diodes For the Bridge.The Fet is an
N Channel $1.99 (RadioShack) and the relay
around $8.00 at Radio Shack.I assembled
components on a perf board and enclosed in
plastic box.
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Robert, the modification to which you speak
is of great interest to many in this forum,
including me. Unfortunately, most of us are
not very electro-mechanically inclined. I
have posted two step-by-step modifications
for the door/window sensors (Sentrol 5150
glass shock sensor and Jim's smoke detector).
When you get a few moments, would you please
consider writing a step-by-step instruction
(and parts list)for us on the internal-to-
external alarm modification. Please note
that it is easiest to first write the
instructions in MS Word or Notepad, etc.,
and then cut and paste (in reverse order)
into this forum thread. This will save you
time and minimize any frustration of long,
multiple postings into this forum. Robert,
thank you very much for your consideration
of this request.
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i have better idea. If it works, can u
tell us how much you want to sell it for? :-)
you can start your own business this way.
leo
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i have better idea. If it works, can u
tell us how much you want to sell it for? :-)
you can start your own business this way.
leo
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EXTERNAL ALARM FOR 49-1000
PART LIST
all from Radio Shack
1. Diodes 5 1N4003 4 is for
bridge, 1 is to put across relay
coil(protects FET from
Voltage spikes)
2 . Capacitor 2 .1@50v 1 across bridge
output and 1 across fet gate to source
3 Trimpot 1 20k ohm Radio Shack
may have this in mixed assortment bag.
4. MOSFET 1 IF510 Radio Shack has this.
5. Relay 1 12v dc relay Radio Shack
6 12 Pwr Sup 1 12v dc power supply with
at least 500MA out ( I used 1AMP)
7. Siren 1 Any 12vdc siren
within current limits of pwr sup& relay
ASSEMBLY
1.Open 49-1000 and solder a pair of 24 awg
wires to piezo sounder in
Parallel with the existing ones. Route wire
pair thru one of many holes in back cover
then replace back cover on 49-1000.
Use a piece of perf board to assemble parts on.
2. Make a bridge rectifier with 4 of the
diodes(if not sure how, get a tech book)
3. Connect the 2 wires from alarm to the ac
in on the bridge rectifier.
4. Connect a .1 capacitor across + and –
output of bridge
5. Connect the 20k trimpot across + and –
output of bridge also(cw &ccw)
6. Connect one end of a 1k resistor to wiper
of trimpot.
7. Before fet is put in circuit, put a
voltmeter plus lead on wiper of pot and - lead
To – bridge. Trigger the alarm and adjust
the output to 15vdc at the pot wiper.Turn
alarm off and Continue assembly
8.Connect open end of 1k resistor to gate of
fet.
9. Connect one end of a .1 cap to gate of fet
and other end to minus of bridge.
10 Connect source lead of fet to minus of
bridge also.
11. Connect a diode across the coil of the relay.
12. Connect the anode side of the relay coil
and diode to the drain of the fet.
13. Connect cathode(end with band) side of
the relay coil and diode to the +12 volt
Power Supply
14. Connect minus side of 12 power supply to
minus of bridge.
15. Also connect +12 volt to a contact on
relay that is normally open.
16. Connect the wiper for that contact to
the plus on the external siren
17. Now ground the minus side of the siren
back to the bridge minus.
Assembly is now complete
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It does work, I have it in use now.
Sorry, I do not want to make them for sale!
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Robert...Thank you so very much for taking
the time to write out your modification and
for sharing it with us!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Robert...Do you see any reason why this
modification cannot be made to the PH508
Powerhorn Siren? As a PH508 siren
modification, it would allow running far
less interior cabling in the house for the
external siren...I could just put a modified
PH508 siren in the attic and run the cabling
for the external siren from there? Please
advise, if you have a moment.
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__PH_508__Power_Horn_Siren
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Since the PH508 has 4 sounders to be driven
by the output circuit. You may need to
change a part or adjustment to get the 15
volts on the adjustment pot. May check that
on a PH508 as I still have to retest for the
Pigs relay mod in the other thread.
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Thanks Brian...I really don't know anything
about electronics but I have a soldering
iron and the desire to fabricate (I am
learning I have to be careful about what
parts can take heat, etc.). I can't design
anything as I don't understand tolerances,
impediances, voltages, etc. But, if I know
what parts are needed and a general idea of
where they go, then I will give it a try.
Thereafter, I can write a step-by-step for
novices such as myself and post it here.
So, I greatly appreciate your efforts as
well as Robert's because I cannot figure it
out myself. But maybe in the future....as
each mod forces me to read more and more
about electronics and each successful mod
lends confidence as well!
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I don't know anything about the PH508 or
powerHorn to advise
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I don't know anything about the PH508 or
powerHorn to advise
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Sorry Robert...I forgot that you are using
the _Radio_Shack version of the
_X10_Console. I am using the
__DS7000_system.
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Robert D. The PH508 Powerhorn Siren doesn't
trip with a RS 49-1000 console, unless RS
has made changes or X10 made a compatible
powerhorn for RS,
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Just want to keep this thread alive.