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Does X10 or anyone else make a drive over switch? Ideally the switch would require enough pressure to only be triggered by the car.
I'd like to create welcome & exit macros when I drive in my garage.
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My suspicion is no, since such a switch would require the driveway to be dug up, the switch installed (by an electrician, since the switch would be akin to the old traffic light treadles and be able to withstand weather plus up to several tons of weight in the auto world). X10 equipment is pretty well light weight.
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X10 has never made a drive over switch. I seem to recall someone making a magnetic loop sensor that produced X10, or that could be used as input on a Powerflash module to do that.
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This is the type of switch I want.
http://www.tapeswitch.co.uk/Product_News/PR_0604.htm
I'd like to find a US source, however.
I have all the other hardware I need and have tested my Exit & Welcome macros.
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Smarthome (http://www.smarthome.com/SOLUTION98.HTML) (bottom of page) has some options for detection only to be triggered by the car, but not like your link!
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Smarthome (http://www.smarthome.com/SOLUTION98.HTML) (bottom of page) has some options for detection only to be triggered by the car...
Yeah. In addition to being expensive, an inductance coil approach just wouldn't work for my application. I currently have a push button switch hanging from the ceiling of my garage as a test. (It really looks tacky.) I want to place the tape / ribbon switch so that I drive over it creating a momentary on. This will start things in motion. When I drive in it will trigger my welcome macro and when I drive out it will trigger the exit macro. My welcome macro turns on a key indoor light for me, triggers the hot water cycling pump to circulate warm the water to the end of the house and later turns off the garage light. My exit macro shuts down the lights, turns off the coffee pot and closes the garage door a minute after I exit.
I hope I don't have to order the switch from England. They don't bother to quote a price and that scares me a bit too.
The great part is that the macros are working!
Well I do have one bug and that is that one light at the end of the house keeps coming on with the welcome macro in spite of no command in the macro for that switch. Also the activity monitor shows no signal is being sent for the switch code. Maybe the switch is acting weird. I think I'll try changing the code for the next room to the same code as my mystery wall switch and see if it comes on. I think I'll be more surprised if it comes on than if it doesn't. Sounds like a project for tomorrow.
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Smarthome also has a couple Parking Accessories (http://www.smarthome.com/prodindex.asp?catid=535) for $25. You might be able to modify one of them to connect to a PowerFlash and get it to do what you want.
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Smarthome also has a couple Parking Accessories (http://www.smarthome.com/prodindex.asp?catid=535) for $25. You might be able to modify one of them to connect to a PowerFlash and get it to do what you want.
I thought of that but thanks! The Garage Parking Wizard (ftp://Garage Parking Wizard) has the best possibilities, except for false triggers. I have a similar device already. It's great for parking but it also triggers when I walk by it. This is ok for a parking sensor but would wreck havoc for my application as I'll be using the same sensor for coming and going. A false trigger could have my lights being left on as I drive out or all the lights turning off after I enter the house.
A strategical placed strip, however, would only trigger with pressure. In addition it would be unaccessible when the car was over it and someone one would have to jump on it to trigger it when I wasn't there. Since I live alone, the chances of false triggers would almost be nil. ;)
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Steven,
Radio Shack used to sell mercury switches. When tilted just a little, the mercury would slide down a glass tube and short two contacts.
One way..... hing a dowel with a tennis ball at the end from your garage ceiling with the mercury switch epoxyed to a cross member attached to the dowel. The dowel hangs over the windshield of the car, and when the car is in place the dowel is moved, causing the mercury switch to close. The mercury switch would connect to a powerflash module to trigger an on command when parked and an off command when leaving....
All kinds of interesting ways to solve the problem....
Then there are magnetic switches that are activated by a magnet approaching....<g>
Skip
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Still looking...
I had a company in England quote me a price for one that was about 30 ft long. With shipping it would of cost over $200.
I only need a 3ft long switch. There's got to be some place to find it in the US. Even with the power of the internet, I haven't found one yet.
When I started this search, I thought I would find a switch for say around $20. Now it's looking more like $100. That's just more than it's worth to me.
It's got me wondering if I could make one myself cheaper. ;)
Anyone know of a closed car wash place that I could "borrow" their drive over strip? Just kidding. Let's keep it legal.
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I found an article about building a Smart Car Sensor (http://james.lipsit.com/smart_car_sensor.htm) which might help. He is putting a wireless transmitter in the car and has the receiver in his garage. I don't know if it will work for you, but I thought you might find it interesting.
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Best price so far is a 2 foot one from a car wash supply company for $99. Still more than I wanted to pay. :(
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Could you make your own with a short piece of garden hose, a cork, a balloon and a push button? Plug one end of the garden hose with a cork (making sure you have an airtight seal) and stretch the balloon over the other end (you might want to put a zip-tie close to the end to hold it on). You then somehow attach the push button so that it is touching the balloon. When you drive over the hose, it should cause the balloon to bulge and push the button.
Just an idea. I haven't tried it, and you would have to figure out the details (like how to attach the push button) but it might work.
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Could you make your own with a short piece of garden hose, a cork, a balloon and a push button?...
Hmm... That's what I like. Some good "out of the box thinking". With a sensitive enough switch, it just might work even without the balloon!
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Try it, and let us know how well it works and what you used to construct it.
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Try it, and let us know how well it works and what you used to construct it.
I picked up all the parts I needed for about $8. I also happened to have an old hose around that was already too short too be practical as a hose.
I cut the hose and added a 2nd male end. I then put a cap over that end. They have an adapter intended to allow items snap on your hose. It tapers to a small opening. I had to widen the opening a little for the switch but it looks good. I may need to do a better job gluing the switch in place. I'll let you know if it holds. I figure the hole where the switch is to be about half the diameter of the hose. That should increase the pressure at the switch 4 times. It looks good but I won't know there is enough pressure till I test it.
PS.
Glue didn't hold. I've got to pick up some epoxy. The glue I was using didn't cut it.
I really like the design of my switch and am very optimistic.
Worst case the parts came 2 two a pack should I have to start over from scratch. :)
I may not be able to get back to the project for a little while but promise to post a parts list if it works.
BTW... Any ideas as to how to get the hose to stay in place as I drive over it?
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It's been over a year, have you gotten back to this project yet.
Just wondering...
8)
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It's been over a year, have you gotten back to this project yet....
Interesting that you should bump the topic. Saved me from having to find it.
My original idea flopped but I recently made a switch out of cardboard, aluminum foil, a little wire, glue and lots of duct tape. Surprisingly it hasn't failed yet. In spite of it working flawlessly for about a week now, I still don't have enough faith in it's construction to recommend it as a failsafe solution.
Now the really good news: I picked up about $12 in parts at Ace Hardware today that I have a really good feeling will result in a very reliable solution. Unlike my cardboard project that I half heartedly made that was a reinforced version of a DIY walk over mat idea I picked up on the internet, I'll take some pictures as I build this one.
If this idea idea flops, I'll go back to the "poor man's solution" of the cardboard creation till I can justify spending the over $100 for a tape switch made for the purpose.
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IT WORKS! IT WORKS!! IT WORKS!!!
...and I have pictures! However, I don't have a site to store pictures for linking yet. I know it's not hard but I've never built a site. Can I link from a photo site? I guess what I'm saying is I need some hand holding through the process.
I still need to thoroughly clean a 16" by 4" spot of my concrete garage floor to stick down this device but I've driven over it and it is working! Tips for cleaning a small spot like that?
BTW.. What is it that they put in the concrete that looks like hay? My floor has a fibrous threads sticking out of it. I've never really cared too much about it till I started thinking about sticking this $15 device to the floor.
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My guess would be fiberglass to strengthen the concrete.
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I still need to thoroughly clean a 16" by 4" spot of my concrete garage floor to stick down this device but I've driven over it and it is working! Tips for cleaning a small spot like that?
I think (?) you can still buy Trisodiumphosate at paint supply stores. But now-a-days I use a pressurewasher for heavy duty cleaning jobs (even car washing). They are FAST easy and only use about 20 % as much water as a garden hose uses. And most of the time... no chemicals are needed.
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...and I have pictures! However, I don't have a site to store pictures for linking yet. I know it's not hard but I've never built a site. Can I link from a photo site? I guess what I'm saying is I need some hand holding through the process.
Yes, use yahoo geocities, it's easy.
1. make a pic, save as a jpeg
2. use easyuploader, browse for file, upload
3. go to file manager, click "view" (of the file you want to insert)
4. copy address from address bar of the Explorer window that came up
5. click on "insert image" in post
6. [img ]paste http:// address here[/img ]
7. voila!!
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I stopped by Ace Hardware last Sun and spotted this cool parking target (http://www.ipiproducts.com/parkingtarget/). In addition to definitively knowing when to stop when you drive over it, I figured why not mount a switch in it.
So I picked out a normally open push button switch, Ace part number 1904U. Barcode 039008774064.
Needless to say, you'll save some time if you have the right size drill bit before you start this project. I didn't so a "carved" my hole with a smaller bit and a blade. I do strongly recommend that the switch fit snugly. It will make installation easier later. Try it from above first. The hole needs to be centered along the length of the parking target and 1/4 of the width of the top from the top edge. (1cm) As you see from my "light at the end of the tunnel" picture, it wouldn't work to center the hole due to supporting center piece of the parking target.
Discard the hex nut that comes with the switch. It's useless for this project. The next step is to screw one of the knurled nuts on the switch. This and the star washer you place on top of it serve to space the switch for a near flush pushed position when you drive over it.
Use wire nuts to attach wire to the switch. (I skipped pictures of the wire nuts but figure anyone that has installed a few X10 light switches has seen plenty of wire nuts.)
Now it's time to get the switch in place. First check your hole from above. Then recheck the wire nuts to make sure they secure. It wouldn't hurt to test the switch also. After the switch pops in place, it's not coming out easily.
With all but the top nut in place, push the switch and slide it into the chamber of the parking target. It will be a snug fit. use a long screwdriver or 10" stick to push the switch in place. When the switch finds the hole it will pop in place. If your hole is snug, you may need to use a padded pair of pliers to pull the switch in place. A snug fitting switch at this point will make it easy to screw on the top nut.
One possible down side of this is that your drive in has to be a bit more precise to hit the switch. At less than $15 for my solution verses more than $100 for a tape switch, I can live with that.
They say a picture is worth a thousand words so I hope these will help clarify things.
(http://www.geocities.com/st_richardson/nuts.jpg)
(http://www.geocities.com/st_richardson/switchnuts.jpg)
(http://www.geocities.com/st_richardson/parkingtarget.jpg)
(http://www.geocities.com/st_richardson/tunnel.jpg)
(http://www.geocities.com/st_richardson/hole.jpg)
(http://www.geocities.com/st_richardson/mountedswitch.jpg)
(http://www.geocities.com/st_richardson/done.jpg)
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...and I have pictures! However, I don't have a site to store pictures for linking yet. I know it's not hard but I've never built a site. Can I link from a photo site? I guess what I'm saying is I need some hand holding through the process...
Steven R,
HOW MANY TIMES have I suggested to folks on the forum to use Yahoo! GeoCities for hosting their images for display (via the {IMG} function) here? ::)
Let me see now:
- WHO's Halloween photos have I been "hosting" on *MY* Yahoo! GeoCities site since November 6, 2006? [steven r]
- WHO had to re-size those same Halloween photos to enable them to 'FIT' on a 1024x768 screen? [THANKS KDR!]
- SINCE I PM'd you on « Sent to: steven r on: 2006-12-24, 01:40:27 » that I wanted *YOU* to host your own "Re: Halloween Ghost? (http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?topic=10751.msg61338#msg61338) photos, I *HOPE* that you have d/l'd them by now - since you now have your own Yahoo! GeoCities site, I'll *FINALLY* be able delete *YOUR* photos from *MY* site within the next 24 hours (UPDATE the thread before then, if you want to preserve the information! ;) ).
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I stopped by Ace Hardware last Sun and spotted this cool parking target (http://www.ipiproducts.com/parkingtarget/). In addition to definitively knowing when to stop when you drive over it, I figured why not mount a switch in it.
---SNIP---
They say a picture is worth a thousand words so I hope these will help clarify things.
steven r,
Yes indeed, a picture *IS* worth a thousand words (or more!), but, IMHO, posting 8 UNCROPPED, 1600x1200 .JPGs of ~300KB each is *VERY* inconsiderate of our 56Kbps Dial-Up, 768Kbps DSL, and 'equal to or less than' 1024x768 display screen size members.
I hope that KDR will once again volunteer his 'PHOTOSHOP' skills, as he did for your Halloween Photos last year. But, in the future, *PLEASE* post more reasonably sized (and cropped) photos (and EDIT these if you can).
Thanks! ;)
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Yes indeed, a picture *IS* worth a thousand words (or more!), but, IMHO, posting 8 UNCROPPED, 1600x1200 .JPGs of ~300KB each is *VERY* inconsiderate of our 56Kbps Dial-Up, 768Kbps DSL, and 'equal to or less than' 1024x768 display screen size members....
Sorry to push a button there. I was eager to post my project with pictures. Completely forgot about size. Bare with me while I remember what is a good size for the forum.
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Sorry to push a button there...
You didn't PUSH A BUTTON - that would imply a PERSONAL preference. My concern is for the ENTIRE X10 Community (including the THOUSANDS of unspoken-for LURKERS! :o ;D ).
Besides, unless someone needs to print 8x10 GLOSSIES from your .JPGs, 640x480 (properly CROPPED 8) ) is *MORE* than adequate for "informational purposes" posting on a forum. ;)
Bare with me...
*PLEASE* , this is a "Family-Oriented" Forum. :-X
;)
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steven r ... Keep your eye on your email. I downloaded your images from your post and re-sized them to 640 x 480. You should be able to upload them and they should over write the originals. Once that's done they should show up here as smaller images. Any problems just drop me a PM or email.
(http://www.bdshost.com/X10/lpup.gif)---(http://www.bdshost.com/X10/lpup.gif)---(http://www.bdshost.com/X10/lpup.gif)---(http://www.bdshost.com/X10/lpup.gif)---(http://www.bdshost.com/X10/lpup.gif)----KDR
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KDR: Thanks for the re-sizing.
TakeTheActive & others: Sorry for the initial large posting of the pictures. In my eagerness to post them I forgot about sizing. Most of my photo software is on my laptop and it is having memory problems. i.e. The memory is fried as well as being so old that it's hard to find. (Anyone know where I can find 256MB SDR ram for a laptop?)
I learn best by doing, not by reading or verbally. e.g. I maybe one of the only guys that grabs a pen and paper when asking for directions. Verbal directions more than 2 turns is lost to me.
While I'm "baring" myself, I'll mention I use at least 2 spell checkers in an attempt to make my posts legible. i.e. It's not usually for me to have to guess more than once at a spelling for the spell checker to find the correct word spelling. When a homonym (You wouldn't believe what I had to do to find that spelling of that word.) sneaks by I'm screwed. ;) Sadly I don't absorb the correct spelling after that and often find myself misspelling it again in the next paragraph. I suppose this is one of the reasons I have so much patience for newbies. One of them may have found it challenging just getting over the simple steps of posting here.
That said I believe it's better to "learn to fish" than being spoon fed. So continue to be patience with me.
TakeTheActive: I know you've done it more than once but email me a step by step procedure of what I need to do to move my Halloween pictures from your site to mine and I'll do it.
For what it's worth, with my 10-15wpm typing and spelling skills, I've spent over 30 minutes composing and spell checking this message.
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steven r ...I downloaded your images from your post and re-sized them to 640 x 480...
THANKS (again) KDR! (http://www.x10community.com/forums/Themes/x10theme1/images/post/thumbup.gif)
Did you do any cropping, or just resizing?
Would you please post the step-by-step procedure you followed for reference for other posters with HUGE .JPGs?
Thanks! ;)
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...Sorry for the initial large posting of the pictures. In my eagerness to post them I forgot about sizing...
I could only see the left sides of the pictures earlier. The Horizontal Scroll Bar was '8 - X' PgDn's below. :o
...I learn best by doing, not by reading or verbally...
*YOUR* example on how to create TABLES (from the time you were out on disability, racking up all those online hours! :D ) showed *ME* how to do it. ;)
...While I'm "baring" myself, I'll mention I use at least 2 spell checkers in an attempt to make my posts legible... ...When a homonym (You wouldn't believe what I had to do to find that spelling of that word.) sneaks by I'm screwed... ;)
:o :-[ ;D
TakeTheActive: I know you've done it more than once but email me a step by step procedure of what I need to do to move my Halloween pictures from your site to mine and I'll do it.
- 1.) RIGHT-CLICK on each Halloween photo
- 2.) SAVE IMAGE as... (pick a name and location on your hard disk)
- 3.) GOTO #1. :)
Please let me know when you're done. Thanks! 8)
...For what it's worth, with my 10-15wpm typing and spelling skills, I've spent over 30 minutes composing and spell checking this message.
Even with 90wpm, some of my posts take over an hour to compose! :D I didn't amass 37+ Days by clicking on Who's Online (http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?action=who) all day. ;)
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Hello All,
Steve if your still interested the stuff sticking out of your concrete is fiberglass for strength (cheaper than wire but just as strong) and as wear goes on it will disappear. As Dave noted TSP is great for cleaning unless you have a oil or grease soaked in. In that case I would recommend muratic acid to etch the surface, just make sure you have plenty of ventilation and wash the area down good with clean water after you are finished. Sorry guys I'm still learning X10 so I really cannot contribute much there but I do know a wee bit about construction. Just trying to give when I can.
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steven r,
It's a little late in the development game to be proposing this but...
Could you use a 3/8" hose connected to a delta-P switch? The switches are make/break (although they would require de-bouncing with software) and should be compatible with a contact sensor.
I did a quick search and switches are available from Omega: Omega.com: PCB Mountable Pressure, Vacuum and Differential Switches (http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=psw23_psw24_psw25&Nav=preh02)
(http://www.omega.com/Pressure/images/PSW23_PSW24_PSW25_m.jpg)
It would take a bit of tuning of line length and diameter but I'd think that the impulse of a tire compressing the 3/8" hose would be more than enough to trip a 2 PSID switch. You could add a blead at the outboard end to refill the line should any "ambient air" escape during the rollover. The switches are rated for 20X proof pressure (40 psid with no damage) so you have a decent working range.
As an alternative, your could use a HVAC blower stack switch if you have any friends in the business. These are rather large but very sensitive - I can personally attest to an "insignificant" ice blockage in the exhaust stack tripping the delta-P sensor and shutting down my furnace. If you're interested I'll get off my lazy duff and look up my furnace spec's.
[TTA Edit: Added description to LINK; added IMAGE.]
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...Could you use a 3/8" hose connected to a delta-P switch?...
Wish I had seen that switch about a year ago when I was trying that approach. ;)
(See my earlier idea in this topic.)
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...Please let me know when you're done....
Done. I posted them in the message before yours. You can have your space back. Thanks again.
Even with 90wpm, some of my posts take over an hour to compose!...
How much of that time is making them so colorful? ;)
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...Steve if your still interested the stuff sticking out of your concrete is fiberglass for strength (cheaper than wire but just as strong) and as wear goes on it will disappear....
It's been over 4 years and I still see the fiberglass. Oh well I really don't care. I'm not trying to eat off the floor, just drive on it.
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I know I am showing my age here but...
Back when gas stations used to actually have someone come out to fill your car for you, they used to have a rubber tube that was stretched across the area by the pumps and when you drove over it a bell would ring.
These tubes were plugged at the far end and the end inside the building was hooked to a diaphram that moved when the air pressure in the tube changed.
To build this you could use some rubber tubing hooked to a diaphram from a car from before the electronic ignition days. Then hook up a switch to this and run it to a powerflash unit for the X10 signal.
Now that is what I call a McGyver.
Unfortunately this is the first time I have read this thread so I have not had a chance to contribute until now.
Later,
W
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I know I am showing my age here but...
Back when gas stations used to actually have someone come out to fill your car for you, they used to have a rubber tube that was stretched across the area by the pumps and when you drove over it a bell would ring....
That was my original idea but I didn't have the right type of switch for it. Some of the switch suggestions above could work.
The switch I have now is working well. The only drawback I've experienced is that I have to careful to drive into just the right place to hit the button.
Having a drive over switch that spanned about 2 feet would be nice.
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I know I am showing my age here but...
Back when gas stations used to actually have someone come out to fill your car for you, they used to have a rubber tube that was stretched across the area by the pumps and when you drove over it a bell would ring....
That was my original idea but I didn't have the right type of switch for it. Some of the switch suggestions above could work.
The switch I have now is working well. The only drawback I've experienced is that I have to careful to drive into just the right place to hit the button.
Having a drive over switch that spanned about 2 feet would me nice.
Maybe you could salvage or buy a pressure switch like used in many washing machines to tell when the water level is right.