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CR12A Camera Scanning remote or the HR12A Palm Pad?
The CR12A has some features that can scan through 4 cameras.
By turning one on in a group and the other three off in that same group automatically with out you needing to turn the original off before turning the new one on.
If it is a CR12A that may contribute to the situation.

Those slider switch contacts may be bent, worn or oxidized so may need cleaning/adjustment.  Glad to hear you solved it!

are you referring to the remote control, CR12?

yes

Glad you found the problem.
The Socket Rocket has a programming phase.
When first powered up. Any X10 command it sees more than once in the first 30 seconds may reprogram it.
It is possible your remotes 1-8 or 9-16 may have been flaky and it was on 9-16.
If I remember correctly 9-16 is an open connection on the unit code selector switch.

Those slider switch contacts may be bent, worn or oxidized so may need cleaning/adjustment.  Glad to hear you solved it!

are you referring to the remote control, CR12?

Those slider switch contacts may be bent, worn or oxidized so may need cleaning/adjustment.  Glad to hear you solved it!

good morning guys.
I share this so as to vent, and laugh, and cry. X10 is wonderful, but it is also frustrating X 10.

I began troubleshooting and isolating things yesterday so as to figure out why #6 and #10 weren't getting along. The #6 bulb socket is on the outside sconce, so to check it being on or off, I've had to open the front door and look up to see a lit or unlit bulb. So, I decided to replace the current switch to that light, a regular Decora switch, with an XPS3 so that I can at least hear the click when it comes on; obviously, I would remove the socket rocket. Since that XPS3 isn't new and gave me problems a year ago, I thought, "what if I test the socket rocket and reprogram it to #6?".

I screwed that module onto a table lamp with an incandescent bulb, and using my CR12A remote, I learned that it responded to #14, which is the 6 with the slider on 9-16. So, somehow it responded to #6 from the MT14A, and #14 from the CR12A. After scratching my head for minutes, I tested the CR12A on the other modules numbers 1 - 8, and they all worked fine.

I reprogrammed the socket to be #6, tested it several times, and so far it has behaved normally. I turned on the pump a few minutes ago, and #6 didn't come on, so FOR NOW, things seem to be working, nominally.

thank you for your help and reading

FYI, although Jeff's XTBM Signal X-10 analyzers are the best, they're no longer available.

Months ago a customer had me order enough PCBs and components for him to assemble a small batch of the XTBM-Pro.  I don't know the current status, but you can contact me privately for his contact information.

Jeff

FYI, although Jeff's XTBM Signal X-10 analyzers are the best, they're no longer available.  The Monterey X-10 Signal Analyzer is also a good choice and if you're willing to spend the money, there's one on ebay right now at https://t.ly/oPr8W

I just saw this. Used and $150. Wow.

thanks Jeff---what are some "small plug-in power modules"? USB phone charger bases, for example?
And switching power supplies? - tv's? Anything that can be powered on by a remote, right?

Small plug-in power modules are just that.  They could be cellphone chargers or power modules for various widgets.  Many things today have a separate power module rather than plugging directly into the AC line.

Most electronic devices today have dispensed with large, heavy, and expensive 60Hz transformers.  Instead they rectify the AC line voltage and feed it to a DC/DC converter to produce lower voltages.  When that converter runs near the X10 carrier frequency, it can cause problems.

Jeff

the always technical Jeff. Thank you for the explanation.
I will do some testing over the next weeks to see if I can isolate one culprit, hopefully.

Meanwhile, I did a search for a "smart 220v" switch, and I came across some other possible solutions for me to isolate my pool pump from the other x10 things I have at home. I love x10, but the whole #10 and #6 coming on at the same time and having to check that front door light every day is getting aggravating. Plus, when we travel, who knows what came on or not.
1. Dewenwils makes a wifi boxed switch that works with an app and can handle all the cabling and switching.
2. Another possibility is to get a contactor and some sort of smart switch, but I'd like to stay with X10 and not have to have multiple technologies.

I suggest replacing the XPS2.

3. Sure, get another XPS2 since mine went bad, perhaps. It's from January of this year and was bought new, so perhaps this is not the culprit.

FYI, although Jeff's XTBM Signal X-10 analyzers are the best, they're no longer available.  The Monterey X-10 Signal Analyzer is also a good choice and if you're willing to spend the money, there's one on ebay right now at https://t.ly/oPr8W