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That way sounds like a good way yo go.
Testing on a different feed and see if it still flickers.
I have used a power cord and Wago lever nuts on the other ends for tests.

The X10 switch continues to be non-responsive, even after I disconnected the floodlight. (Not totally non-responsive, the amber LCD on the switch flickers a bit, so I know it's getting power.) I'm guessing that the X10 switch just died when I turned the breaker off to install the floodlight. I'll try to put the switch on a different circuit tonight and see if it works elsewhere in the house. It's an old Smarthome version of the WS13a.

I'd also vote for noise from the floodlight.  I tested a few LED bulbs years ago and some were noisy.  I tested again more recently and the cheap ones from Costco didn't cause an issue so I installed them in place of most 60W bulbs.  It's possible that some LED still cause issues.

This topic has been moved to Troubleshooting Automation Problems.

https://forums.x10.com/index.php?topic=31699.0

Could be the Wyze floodlight is making power line noise around 120KHz the X10 power line frequency.
Getting into the appliance modules electronics.
Does the X10 module work if you have the Wyze turned off or removed?

I installed a Wyze floodlight camera today, and I'm wondering why that killed an X10 switch that controls a porch light on the same circuit. 

The X10 switch is an appliance module that’s been controlling a porch light with an LED bulb for about 20 years. On the same circuit - but with its own switch - is a floodlight. I took down the original floodlight fixture today and replaced it with a Wyze floodlight cam.

The Wyze floodlight works great. But the X10 switch won't turn on the porch light - even if I just try to turn it on locally with the paddle. The little LED indicator on the X10 switch - which used to light up yellow - now just weakly flickers. 

I didn't open the electrical box with the switches, so it's not like I could have knocked off a wire or damaged the switch.  Does anybody have an idea why this is happening?

Thanks.

I've never had batteries in my CM15a controller and have always updated the clock after an outage. Well I have to leave for about three weeks and am going to install batteries to test if they save timers and clock keeps time.

Does anyone know how long a new set of 4AAA batteries will last in an outage? Has it been reliable?

If not reliable, I'll disco and use the WM100 that I can at least connect to and update clock from the app.

Thanks!

I've had issues with batteries going bad in the past and since it is not recommended to replace just one battery due to your bank is only as good as your worse battery I removed one string of batteries. Testing each so I had the best ones to use. Will this show exactly which battery has the bad cell? If so it will sure make finding the exact bad battery much simpler.

No, the intent was to alert me that something was amiss.  I don't want to damage the others due to overcharge.  It just sounds the alarm when there is a mismatch between any of the 4 readings.  Then it is time to get out the DVM.

I know the recommendation is to replace all batteries when one is bad, but some batteries last much longer than others.  So being frugal, I only replace the one that failed.  The last time that happened, overcharging likely took out a second one.

Jeff

I've had issues with batteries going bad in the past and since it is not recommended to replace just one battery due to your bank is only as good as your worse battery I removed one string of batteries. Testing each so I had the best ones to use. Will this show exactly which battery has the bad cell? If so it will sure make finding the exact bad battery much simpler.

So with a firmware change I'd still need 4 units to fully monitor all my batteries?

It depends on how your batteries are connected.  If each set of four 6V batteries are wired in parallel, just one would monitor all 16 batteries.  But if you have 4 independent series connected banks with only the ground and 24V connections common, then you would normally need one for each independent bank.

It looks feasible to use just one with a resistor summation network at each intermediate point.  But sensitivity would have to be increased because a dead shorted cell would only change the summation voltage by half a volt.

BTW, I already took a first pass at the firmware mod.  But I'll have to assemble another one to test it.  The prototype is presently monitoring my own system.

Jeff