How to make X10 XPD3 dimmers work on a switched circuit?

Started by Topher5000, February 04, 2007, 12:41:57 PM

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Topher5000

I hope this makes sense.  It's kind of hard to explain.
In my basement, I have 2 sets of 2 pot lights controlled by XPD3 dimmers receiving signals from an IR543 controller. A 14/2 wire goes from a switch at the bottom of the stairs to a junction box, where it splits to the 2 X10 switches. That way I can leave the lights on while I exit the room & then switch them off as I go up the stairs. The problem is that when I go back downstairs & flip the switch back on, the lights don't come on. I have to walk over to the x10 switches & tap them on before I can use my remote to control them.  I want the lights to go back on when I flip the switch at the stairs. After some reading, it appears that I need an XPSS slave switch to replace the standard switch at the stairs.  Will this solve my problem?
I read the manual for the slave switch & it looks like I'd have to run another wire from it to the junction box, probably to constantly send a low voltage to the X10 switches. Is this correct?

dave w

Yes you need a companion switch to replace the second three way switch.
No you shouldn't have to pull any extra wires. if the original circuit was a standard 3-way switch arrangement. The companion switch uses the existing wiring.
"This aftershave makes me look fat"

Topher5000

It's not a 3-way switch.  I had normal dimmers where the XPD3s are & the switch at the stairs just turned the power on/off.
ELA at remotecentral said I should wire the XPD3s straight to the power at the switch at the bottom of the stairs & pigtail in an X10 transmitter, replacing the switch.  It looks like a 4202 or 4203 should work.

dave w

Well I'm confused, but that's normal. Sounds like you have it under control.
"This aftershave makes me look fat"

gil shultz

Try putting the X=10 electrically in front of the 3-way switches.  Their design typically turns on if the load is switched but not the supply.

Gil Shultz

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