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[mdl70]

I looked through these forums for an answer before posting, but couldn't find anything specific to my situation.

I have two new WS467 switches installed.  One controlling the front porch light and one controlling the back porch light.  I have an HC60CRX/CM11A connected to my linux box in our computer room.  I'm planning on controlling the devices via heyu: http://heyu.tanj.com/.

I installed the wall switches without a problem and verified heyu was working correctly by testing a lamp module that came with the CM11A.  I couldn't control the wall switches via the linux box.  I could manually turn them on/off with the push button, so I know they're wired correctly.  The lamp module is currently downstairs in the dining room -- same floor as the two wall switches I'm trying to automate. 

I disconnected the CM11A from the linux box upstairs, connected it to my linux laptop and ran heyu from it testing the outlets downstairs.  Heyu was able to control everything from downstairs.  I was even able to control the wall switches from outlets upstairs and even from a GFI outlet in an upstairs bathroom.  Once I connected the wall switch to an outlet in a bedroom, the wall switches fail to respond but I can still control the lamp module.

The house is almost a year old, if that helps any.

I'm out of ideas.  Any insight/help is much appreciated.

(a bit of my background to help with suggestions:  I'm a security engineer, not an electrician.  Please don't get too technical with the electricity-speak.    )

Thanks,

[JeffVolp]

This sounds like it may be a phase-coupling issue.  I have written a few tutorials on various X10 issues.  You might read the reliability overview and the one on couplers:

http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm

As a quick test, you could turn on a high-current electrical appliance, such as a stove or electric dryer, and see if that makes any difference.  If so, you probably need a signal coupler.

Jeff

[mdl70]

Thanks for the info.  You wrote some pretty detailed guides.

I tried it again this morning while some clothes were in the dryer.  There was no change with being able to turn the outdoor lights on/off.  The dining room lamp was still able to be controlled.  Does this change the possibility of needing a coupler?

Thanks,

[Brian H]

Is the problem computer on an UPS or Surge Strip? It maybe possible they are absorbing the X10 signals or making powerline noise that masks the signals.

[JeffVolp]

I tried it again this morning while some clothes were in the dryer.  There was no change with being able to turn the outdoor lights on/off.  The dining room lamp was still able to be controlled.  Does this change the possibility of needing a coupler?

Unless all X10 devices are on the same phase, a signal coupler is normally required.  Your test may indicate that is not the problem here.  However, the heating element doesn't run constantly, and you might have tested the outdoor lights when it was off.  The motor has inductance, and would not couple the X10 signal very well.

As Brian said, you could have a signal sucker on the same circuit as the outdoor lights.  Unfortunately, troubleshooting X10 problems can be a lot of trial and error if you don't have a X10 signal meter.

At our previous house we had one exterior lighting circuit that gave us a problem until we increased the signal level with a repeater.  That lighting circuit was for a post lamp located at least 50 feet away from the house.  The inductance in that long cable run reduced the signal to the point that the operation was marginal.

If the exterior lights are on the opposite phase from your transmitter, you should really install some sort of signal coupler.  Without a X10 signal level meter, the best you can do is isolate known problem loads with filters, and see if that solves the problem.  Or you can boost the transmitter output to get a stronger signal throughout your home.

Jeff

[mdl70]

Thanks for the replies.

I'll try the dryer test again this afternoon just to be sure.

The affected computer is connected to a UPS but it is able to control a lamp module.  Do the wall switches need a stronger signal?  The wall switches fail to turn on/off when I have it plugged in directly to an outlet upstairs as well -- completely bypassing the UPS.  I'm assuming the noise from the UPS would still affect the signal if it's on the same phase.

Trying to do this the easiest and cheapest way possible (sounds like I need an electrician to get a coupler installed), I found this repeater:

http://www.smarthome.com/4827.html

If I understand that correctly, I would plug that in somewhere downstairs.  When I send the signal from upstairs, would that amplify it further down the wire?  Since I can control the lamp module from upstairs and I can control the wall switches and lamp module from downstairs, would it make sense to try something like this?

Thanks,

[JeffVolp]

Wall switches should not require any more signal.  However, the return signal path of the WS467 is through the bulb itself.  The inductance in a long run can attenuate the signal level.  There are wall switches from other manufacturers that use a neutral connection to get around that problem.

A computer or UPS will often attenuate the X10 signal.  Devices like that should be isolated with a X10 filter, such as the XPPF available on eBay for under $15.

From the reports I have read (search with Google), the 4827 BoosterLinc has helped in some installations, but it is no panacea.  The same company also makes a 4826a repeater that plugs into a dryer socket.  I haven't read any user reports about that unit, and do not know how well it works.

Since you don't have a X10 signal strength meter, we can only offer solutions based on experience with other installations.

Jeff

[Brian H]

4826A/B Dryer Repeater works fine for me; but not everyone.
Some have reported a firestorm of X10 signals with a CM15A. I have seen no information with the CM11A.
I do know the X10 Two Way Modules AM14A and LM14A when first connected. Send a Status Request to the controller that also causes a signal firestorm if I plug one in and they are set to certain House Code/Unit Code Combinations.
So that repeater is ok most times but in some installations can be a problem.
Many users say the ACT Repeaters are much more stable and many have switches to configure how they act with powerline signals.

[mdl70]

Ok, tried the dryer test again and I was able to control the wall switches with no problem for a short while, then it stopped working.  I assume the heating element stopped at that time.

Would a repeater help with this situation or do I need to go the coupler route?

Thanks again for the replies,

[JeffVolp]

Ok, tried the dryer test again and I was able to control the wall switches with no problem for a short while, then it stopped working.  I assume the heating element stopped at that time.

Would a repeater help with this situation or do I need to go the coupler route?

A good passive coupler will probably do the job.  If you want to avoid an electrician, perhaps the easiest is the SignaLinc dryer plug-in, which you can get on eBay for less than $30, including shipping.  Be sure to get one that matches your dryer receptacle.  Also, it would still be a good idea to isolate your UPS and computer with a filter, such as the XPPF.

Jeff

[mdl70]

I'll give those a try.  Thanks again for all the help -- it's appreciated.

[mdl70]

Just a quick follow-up:

I picked up a SignaLinc dryer outlet/plug-in off of eBay and I can now control all of my wall switches from the linux box upstairs. 

Thanks for the help, it was appreciated...

[Brian H]

Thanks for the update. Nice to hear that all modules now respond.