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Author Topic: Power Out Help  (Read 4609 times)

firebirdbandit

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Power Out Help
« on: May 21, 2007, 01:57:20 PM »

I have 2 x 150 watt metal halide bulbs on one of my x10 devices. I'm wondering if there is a way to create a macro or something for when the power goes out. Basically if the power goes out I want it to stay off even when the power comes back on until the timer tells it to come on the next day or when I manually turn it on. When the power goes off and on multiple times the bulbs try to cool down / heat up too many time too close together and it already once caused one of the $60 bulbs to burn out.
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Noam

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Re: Power Out Help
« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2007, 03:06:00 PM »

If you use a one-way lamp module or wall switch, they don't remember their previous state, so they should stay off when power is restored (assuming power was out for more than a second or two). However, they ususally can survive a brief blip (less than a second or so), and may remain on.

I actually have a solution for the opposite - to turn things back ON after the power goes out. It is a complex series of conditional macros, triggered by a powerflash on which I connected the contacts together. If power is out for a few seconds (long enough for the capacitors in the Powerflash to discharge), then it sends an M1 when power comes back on. Based on day and time, the macros will turn on the appropriate lights and modules.
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Dan Lawrence

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Re: Power Out Help
« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2007, 03:48:06 PM »

An SR227 "super socket" will also retain its status if on when an outage occurs.

When one the hurricanes a couple of years ago caused widespread outages in the Baltimore area, our house lost power for 3 days. When power was restored, the two wall lamps that are by our two recliners and are plugged into a SR227 came on, but no other lamp modules did until the computer was up and running and AHP could control everything could we turn on everything in the living room.
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Brian H

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Re: Power Out Help
« Reply #3 on: May 21, 2007, 04:20:07 PM »

The Lamp modules and Wall Dimming Switches turn off if power is lost. Appliance Modules and Wall Socket modules stay in the state they where in at power loss.
I believe [corect me if I am incorrect] the relay type wall switch WS13A stays in the previous state also.
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firebirdbandit

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Re: Power Out Help
« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2007, 07:39:49 AM »

I will try a lamp module tonight but I think the 300watts these 2 bulbs use might be too much for it. I will try it out. Thanks for all your help.
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Brian H

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Re: Power Out Help
« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2007, 09:24:41 AM »

OK. Yes 300 Watts is listed as the maximum. You probably are OK as there should be a safety factor included in the specifications. Try one for now as a test if you care to.
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steven r

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Re: Power Out Help
« Reply #6 on: May 22, 2007, 12:11:47 PM »

I will try a lamp module tonight but I think the 300watts these 2 bulbs use might be too much for it. I will try it out....
Don't even try it if the bulbs exceed the lamp module rating. Also I don't think those bulbs were designed to be dimmed and most wall switches can allow that to happen.
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dave w

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Re: Power Out Help
« Reply #7 on: May 22, 2007, 12:17:12 PM »

firebirdbandit
If your metal halide bulbs use an inductive ballest a Lamp Module may not work.  

If it does not, you can use a DPDT or DPST 120V AC coil relay, with two poles wired to self latch and the other two poles providing power to the halides. Power the relay from a Lamp Module. There are plans on the forum if you help on doing this (search "latching relay"). Basically when the power drops out, the relay unlatches and remains so until the Lamp Module is turned back on.  

Too bad AHP does not have a "State on power restoration". Noams solution using a Powerflash module is a good work around for "state on power restoration" requirements.
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Brian H

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Re: Power Out Help
« Reply #8 on: May 22, 2007, 04:15:48 PM »

Dave and Steven; made a very good point. If not incandescent dimmers may not work well.
I have seen mods to change the triac and driver electronics in a lamp module to a SSR that switches AC; but that requires electronic skills.
I do like the 120 VAC relay idea if needed.
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