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[rldxv]

I have three incandescent lamps (60W, 60W, 150W) which currently can only be turned on by walking over to each lamp individually (No wall switches are wired to them). I want to be able to control all three lamps by one single switch. I don't need dimming, or individual control. Just ALL ON/ALL OFF.  Currently, here is one hard-wired fixture that is controlled by a wall switch. I do not plan on ever using this fixture (it can always be off), but the switch is in a very convenient location. Can i used X10 to installl a new wall switch that will turn on all three of these lights? Two of them (60W and 150W) are close enough that a single module could be used for both lamps (with an outlet adaptor). The catch is, right now all of these lamps are plugged into surge protectors.



Any ideas on what i can do?

[Boiler]

rldxv,

Your post is similar to a recent question regarding moving a closet switch to a new location.

Have a look -
http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?topic=12964.0

You'll need to ask yourself the same questions-

• Are you trying to automate your entire home, or solve a specific problem?
• Do you know whether your lamps and switch location are on the same power line phases?
• Do you have a "signal suckers" and "noise generators" in the house (the answer is "yes", but read the guides to see what they can do to X10 comunication

From what you've described an X10 transmitter in your switch location (X10-2 way) and either "socket rockets" on each lamp or lamp modules. 

Can you eliminate the surge suppressors?  These can really suck (x10).

[HA Dave]

I have three incandescent lamps (60W, 60W, 150W) which currently can only be turned on by walking over to each lamp individually (No wall switches are wired to them). I want to be able to control all three lamps by one single switch. I don't need dimming, or individual control. Just ALL ON/ALL OFF. ..............Two of them (60W and 150W) are close enough that a single module could be used for both lamps

You could control the two lamps.... using a Transceiver (TM751) they turn ON and OFF (no dim) at unit 1 of whichever house code they are set at. You could use a socket rocket, lamp module, or even an appliance module for the other. Look for a starter package the X10 DEALS will save you money. Any RF remote can be used to turn the lamps on.... whichever appeals to you is best (but read below).

If you decide on a plug-in remote you won't need a Transceiver..... just a couple modules.

 Currently, here is one hard-wired fixture that is controlled by a wall switch. I do not plan on ever using this fixture (it can always be off), but the switch is in a very convenient location.

Since you already have a wall switch which is "very convenient" that may be a great place for a VERY hard to lose remote. I would remove the switches cover-plate ONLY and replace it with a double switch cover-plate. This with give you a GREAT place to put a stick-on SlimLine switch. OK.... you could also just stick it on the wall beside the current switch too.

The slimLine can handle 4 separate units with dim..... maybe more then you need NOW... but it may be handy later (X10 systems have a way of growing).

[rldxv]

Thanks for the help, here is my plan as of now....I'll use slim Wireless Wall Switch (4095) with the two close lamps hard wired to the TM-751 transceiver using an adapter plug. Also, I'll use a socket rocket on the third lamp. Obviously they'll both be on the same channel so all the lights go on together. I sill have a few questions...

If I wanted to add another slim wireless wall switch (4095) in a different location to activate the same lights, will it work? Or do i need to get a specific 3-way switch?

Assuming the transceiver and socket rocket are both set to unit code 1, will the transceiver send out a unit code 1 on/off signal to the socket rocket as well as turn on/off the component using it as a module?

Also, will the transceiver and socket rocket work if they are plugged into surge protectors? Thanks

RLD

[Boiler]

If I wanted to add another slim wireless wall switch (4095) in a different location to activate the same lights, will it work? Or do i need to get a specific 3-way switch?

You do not need a 3-way switch.  Both units will transmit to the TM751 (house and unit code) to turn on the lamps.  These swithes don't have the greatest range, but if your talking about the same (or adjacent rooms) they should work.

Assuming the transceiver and socket rocket are both set to unit code 1, will the transceiver send out a unit code 1 on/off signal to the socket rocket as well as turn on/off the component using it as a module?

Also, will the transceiver and socket rocket work if they are plugged into surge protectors? Thanks

Since you will have two lamps directly connected to the TM751 they will activate with or without the surge protectors (if the TM751 recieves the RF input it will activate the directly connected lamps).  Going the other direction, the TM751 will need to communicate through two(?) surge protectors in order to reach the socket rocket.  It's a simple matter of signal levels.  Since you're using surge protectors, I assume you have other devices (TV, stereo) plugged into these as well (I'm picturing an outlet mouted surge protector - correct me if I'm wrong).  These devices will reduce the signal level from the TM751 and the socket rocket may not be able to "reliably" detect it. 

Do you have another outlet available for the socket rocket lamp?

[waterstom]

First I need more 'splaining on why lamps are in surge protectors? I can see it as rldxv supposed, that they are wall-mounts with other stuff in them?


I would echo the Socket Rocket idea, get a 3 pack, a TM751 to put the signal on the line, and an x10 wall-switch   ws-467 to replace the existing switch in that oh-so-convienent locale.

But back to the surge protectors... that will kill the deal on 1 of the 3 unless you were to run an unsightly extension cord from #3 over to the 751 also.  Then you would need ONLY the 751 and no socket rockets at all since the outlet of the 751 will control it all.  Heck, if you can reach the 751 from the easy chair, there's even a switch ON it right there, no need to even change out the wall-switch.

And then, there's the case that some surge protectors don't kill all x10 signals. As I write this, I realize I have 2 lamps in my lving room that work 100% of the time THRU a surge protector on 2 seperate modules and codes.  You may try it and find yous work too!

[dave w]

rldxv

Yup, the really cheap, single outlet surge suppressors and the cheap surge strips (cheap is the operative word here) usually have no effect on X10 signals, because they usually are only "MOV" clamps. The more expensive surge and NOISE filters are the ones which cause problems for X10.  However I gotta echo waterstom query of Why are you using surge suppressors on lamps? Usually light bulbs are unaffected by surges and a surge suppressor cost considerably more than a replacement bulb(?).

[rldxv]

The only reason why the lamps are plugged into surge protectors is because I have more things that I need to plug in than the number of wall outlets that are available. I'm not using the power strips for their surge protection, just for the additional outlets.

RLD

[Boiler]

The only reason why the lamps are plugged into surge protectors is because I have more things that I need to plug in than the number of wall outlets that are available. I'm not using the power strips for their surge protection, just for the additional outlets.

What are the other devices - TV, Stereo??  These are the type of signal suckers that we're referring to.

[HA Dave]

The only reason why the lamps are plugged into surge protectors is because I have more things that I need to plug in than the number of wall outlets that are available. I'm not using the power strips for their surge protection, just for the additional outlets.

Yep.... and when you get old...like me...you might find those power strips are easier to get to than the wall outlet that is behind something, like a entertainment center or buffet. I have them all over the house, AND I have X10 modules in many (if not most) of them.

You could find yourself with a signal problem, I can't swear you won't. Not all areas, neighborhoods, or homes are the same. But, I think MOST people actually don't.... or at least most people with a small setup. Once I decided to expand my system I had to add a phase coupler so my transceiver (now AHP) could be heard everywhere. I have yet to filter anything.

[Boiler]

Dave,
Good perspective.  I started with X10 2-way devices and have always required an active coupler.  Despite having 6 computers in the house, I only have filters on one line for my A/V system.  Devices plugged into the line with the A/V equipment refused to receive until I filtered the equipment (even with a transmitter on the same line).

As a result I'm probably over cautious.