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[Topher5000]

I have 2 sets of 2 pot lights, each with XPD3 dimmers on them.  I had a regular switch on the line so I could turn them off as I left the room.  I replaced the switch with an XPT base & an XP4D keypad.  I have to walk to the XPD3 dimmers & tap them on, but once I do, I can dim/brighten them by pressing the Unit 1 on & then dim to dim the first set, pressing the Unit 2 & then dim for the second set.  I can also turn them off, but once off, I can't turn them on with the XP4D.  I need to walk over to the XP3Ds & tap them on again.
Any clue as to what could be the problem?

[Boiler]

I have 2 sets of 2 pot lights, each with XPD3 dimmers on them.  I had a regular switch on the line so I could turn them off as I left the room.  I replaced the switch with an XPT base & an XP4D keypad.  I have to walk to the XPD3 dimmers & tap them on, but once I do, I can dim/brighten them by pressing the Unit 1 on & then dim to dim the first set, pressing the Unit 2 & then dim for the second set.  I can also turn them off, but once off, I can't turn them on with the XP4D.  I need to walk over to the XP3Ds & tap them on again.
Any clue as to what could be the problem?

You may have a contact problem between the XP4D keypad and the XPT base (or a bad keypad position).  Since your XP4D can communicate with with 3 consecutive addresses, could you reset the unit code on the XPT base to use the second switch (I'm assuming you're using the top switch currently)?  If this works I'd say you had a Keypad or interconnect problem.  It sounds like the base XPT is working it's just not seeing the "ON" contact from the keypad.

[Topher5000]

Okay, I tried that but it still doesn't work.  I also tried a different house code to no avail.
If I dim them right out, I can't turn them back on.  Does this mean anything?
I have an IR543 on another circuit.  I can dim/brighten & turn off, but I can't turn them on with this either.  Ditto for the remote (I'm using a Harmony 659 programmed with codes from the Harmony database).  Could it be that the problem's withthe XPD3 dimmers?

[Boiler]

Okay, I tried that but it still doesn't work.  I also tried a different house code to no avail.
If I dim them right out, I can't turn them back on.  Does this mean anything?
I have an IR543 on another circuit.  I can dim/brighten & turn off, but I can't turn them on with this either.  Ditto for the remote (I'm using a Harmony 659 programmed with codes from the Harmony database).  Could it be that the problem's withthe XPD3 dimmers?

If I understand this correctly, once the lights are on, you can dim/brighten turn off from multiple locations but you can't turn on (correct?).  These switches require a certain load resistance in the off condition to complete the circuit (hot to neutral) to be able to receive X10.  The switches are always active, flowing a small amount of current through your lamps so that they can "see" the X10 commands.  It sounds as if, when you turn the lamps off, the switches are loosing the connection (totally off - can't respond to X10) until you manually turn them on again. 

Lets go back to your original configuration (the problems seem to have started when you replaced the original switch).

I have 2 sets of 2 pot lights, each with XPD3 dimmers on them.  I had a regular switch on the line so I could turn them off as I left the room.  I replaced the switch with an XPT base & an XP4D keypad. 

You originally had a standard switch in series the the two XPD3 switches.  This switch was used to turn off power to the entire circuit (both switches)??
From your description each XP3D controls two can lights individually (they are not wired as a three way - one switch can't turn on all four lamps) correct?

I'm trying to figure out if you may have created a wiring problem when you removed the manual switch (I'm not trying to be critical here) and I need more information on the original configuration.

I have a hard time believing that 2 XPD3 switches failed at the same time (in the same manner).

[Topher5000]

You're right, once the lights are on, I can control them, but I can't turn them back on once they're off.
I've never been able to turn them on remotely, even before I changed the switch for the XPT.
I removed the switch, which was on the hot side, used a Marr connector to join those wires & pigtail in the black wire from the XPT.  I then pigtailed the white wire into the white electrical wires.
An electrical wire runs from the XPT to the dual-gang box with the 2 XPD3s.  The XPD3s are pigtailed into the source wire & the wires running to the pot lights (2 75 watt flood lamps per XPD3).
I don't think the XPD3s went bad, I'm just uncertain whether they're suitable for the task.

[Boiler]

You're right, once the lights are on, I can control them, but I can't turn them back on once they're off.
I've never been able to turn them on remotely, even before I changed the switch for the XPT.
I removed the switch, which was on the hot side, used a Marr connector to join those wires & pigtail in the black wire from the XPT.  I then pigtailed the white wire into the white electrical wires.
An electrical wire runs from the XPT to the dual-gang box with the 2 XPD3s.  The XPD3s are pigtailed into the source wire & the wires running to the pot lights (2 75 watt flood lamps per XPD3).
I don't think the XPD3s went bad, I'm just uncertain whether they're suitable for the task.

The XPD3's should be fully capable of controlling your can lights.

I'm still trying to understand your wiring configuration.  Is this an "old" house (wiring from a previous owner)?

It sounds like your XPT location (your old on/off mechanical switch) was intended to be a 3-way installation (lights controlled from two locations).  Do you have extra red wires in your boxes? This can be a quick tip that you're dealing with a 3 way installation.  The red lead is part of a 3 wire bundle that is run between the two switches (traveler wire-see diagram).

Unfortunately,  many times the installer will run two sets of 2 wire cables between the two switches (4 wires - 2 balck and 2 white).  This can make it very difficult to determine which wires are connected where.

What I'm thinking is that somehow your XP3D switches are wired in series rather than parallel.  When you turn off both switches they can no longer receive X10.  If you don't understand the series vs parallel let me know.  I can try to provide a diagram tomorrow (I'm using my A/V pc and it's graphic arts capabilities are nil).

If this is the case, you'll need to trace out where your power is entering the circuit, and which wires connect to the loads (lamps).  There are a whole host of possible configurations, including having the power enter through your lamp fixtures (I really hate it when they do this).

Bottom line, you'll need a volt meter and you'll be working with live circuits.  If you don't have a meter, or aren't comfortable with having live wires sticking out of your electrical boxes (I'm always worried about the kids), by all means call an electrician.

The Boiler

[Topher5000]

The XPT is in a dual gang box besides a 3-way switch to control the lights in the stairway.  The XPT is powered off the black & white wires coming into the box.  The wiring to the XPD3s was put in my me when I bought the house 8 years ago.  The XPD3s are wired in parallel in their box.
I too was thinking that the 3-way switch was somehow messing it up, although flipping the switch has no effect.  There's another outlet box nearby (for the freezer) & the ceiling is unfinished so I'll try running another wire into the box & feeding the XPT seperately.  I'll let you know what happens.
Thanks for the help too.

[Brian H]

When you turned them off. You used the Off command not dimmed to 0%? You can not turn a module ON if it is not Off just dimmed to 0%

[Topher5000]

No, I've been using the off command.

[dave w]

Boiler might have picked up the scent earlier in this thread.

Did the XPD3 EVER turn ON the lights? If not, what kind of bulbs do you have in the 2 "pot" (spot?) lights?

To avoid playing message tag: I have seen a WS12 switch exhibit similar characteristics with a 50W halogen bulb. Substituting a 60W regular bulb made the switch work, a different brand of halogen made the switch work. I never did figure out what was going on. In theory the cold halogen filament should have been lower in resistance than the 60W regular bulb, so the WS12 should have been happy with the halogen, but it wasn't..

Oh, yeah almost forgot ...you ain't using CFLs in the fixture are you?

[Topher5000]

They're 75w incandescent lights.
Boiler was right about the 3-way wiring.  It was at least partly to blame.  I wired the XPT into another circuit & was able to totally control unit 1.  I don't think I was able to turn on unit 2 (I've been at this for over a day & my mind's gone to mush).
A pre-existing 14/3 wire came from the switch box to a junction box & then a 14/2 went to a pre-existing light fixture at the bottom of the stairs.  I tapped into this junction box for the XPD3s => pot lights.
I rewired the dual gang box with the 3-way switch so that the red wire going to the junction box isn't needed.
I can now fully control unit 1, but I still need to tap on unit 2, even though they are wired parallel.  My brother an electrician, so I'll have him come over & take a look, but I don't think I did anything wrong.
dave w, you may be onto something there about particular bulbs making a difference.  I'll give it a try.

[Boiler]

Topher5000,

Sounds as if you're back on the road to automation happiness.  Good job of troubleshooting and making sense out of your system.

Bulbs - they seem like such simple devices.  Unfortunately we keep coming up with new and better ways of producing light and many X10 devices don't like the new ways.

About a year ago my wife purchased a 5 pack of Phillips IQ smart bulbs (introductory deal through Menards).  She installed them at various locations throughout the house.  Some of these bulbs would start at full wattage and the dim themselves (70%, 50%, etc) and then flash a warning prior to turning off completely.  Others would simply flash and then turn off after 10 minutes.

After a month of troubleshooting macro's looking for noisemakers and signal suckers I was ready to give up my engineering degree and go live in a cave.  I finally admitted defeat and plugged my table lamp into an "uncontrolled" outlet so I could watch a movie without the thing dimming and flashing at me - and it still dimmed and flashed.  I finally saw the "IQ" logo on top of the bulb - kind of a cruel joke if you ask me.

Suffice it to say that we no longer have smart bulbs in the house.  Nothing against Phillips -  the bulbs work as advertised.  They just don't play well with X10.