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[liderbug]

Gremlins    <- says it all.  I'm using Heyu on my Linux box to drive a ActiveHome CM11A.  My equipment list: 3 Smarthome 2002STW3, 1 powerflash (B3 mode), 1 dual flood and a pair of x10 doorbells with a wall switch.  The following measurements are WAGs in feet. 

CM11A to main breaker box - 20'
main box to greenhouse (2 2002stwd) - 100'
main box to 3 whiskey barrels pump (2002stwd) - 20'
main box to dual flood - 80'
main box to powerflash - 60'

I've played musical breakers so all units are in on L2.  The 2 in the greenhouse seem to work ok.  The barrel pump seems to turn off but not on and the powerflash works only when I bring it in to the computer room.

Some questions:  A) Is a lower House Code / Unit Code better than using higher codes?  B) Is there 'any' distance questions?  I thought the rule was the incoming transformer.  C) Can an 'old' circuit breaker cause problems?  Most of my are ~50 yo.  D) Would a XPCR unit using 'only' the white and red on N & L2 help?  E) Is there any test equip that isn't expen$ive?  F) Could my CM11A be marginal?

From Adventure - At Wits End.
Thanks

[Brian H]

A. No I don't believe any combinations are better.

B. Distance from the module back to the breaker box and then the circuit back to the other module maybe playing a role, but more like noise makers and signal suckers.

D. No it will not improve anything wired that way and maybe damaged.

E. The JV Engineering XTBM is a great troubleshooting tool. Though it maybe over what you would want to spend.

The 2002STW ApplianceLincs are two way, so the power line transmitter in them, absorbs power line signals. So they may need more signal than an X10 receive only module.

Is the CM11A on the same circuit as the computer equipment?
If so computer power supplies are known to make power line noise or be signal suckers.
Are you using any X10 filters on the computing equipment?

[Tuicemen]

C: yes this is possible, as is anything.
I've seen newer gfi and arkfault breakers cause isues so it wouldn't hurt to replace the one breaker with a new one as a test or at least swap it out with another one of the same rating.

[dave w]

Invest in a repeater.  Wire it at your breaker panel to pick up both phases. As Brian noted the XPCR will be damaged if only one phase is coupled to it.

[Brian H]

Having see the XPCR for like $14.30 with shipping.
Worth a try at least.

[liderbug]

Thank you.  I think I will invest in some basic 3 pin appliance modules AM466 ( what about the AGC model?).  

Yes the CM11A is plugged in to the outlet the line to the computer UPS is plugged into    Hmmmm ... how about plugging the UPS in thru a XPPF?  The whole room is on the same circuit - I could run the control line through the wall to the family room and plug in there.

Oh and I have a XPCR and it was installed - all sorts of:
06/10 10:07:18  Poll received unknown value (1 bytes), leading byte = 2
06/10 10:07:18  Poll received unknown value (1 bytes), leading byte = 1
06/10 10:07:18  Poll received unknown value (1 bytes), leading byte = 92
so I took it out  and my log is now clean.

[Brian H]

Just don't push the XPPF to its rated five amps.
They tend to get very warm and smell when pushed to the full five amp rating.

[liderbug]

Ah, thanks.  Didn't know that (5A max)(note) - Question on the XPPF - does it filter the "output" or does it filter the "line".   The line comes from the main breaker box -> outlet -> outlet -> outlet ...  If I put the XPPF on the second outlet and then plug XYZ into the XPPF - is only XYZ filtered? or are outlets 1 & 3 also filtered?  I'm thinking the later because there is no isolation - or is there?


Note:  A few day back I had a PR511 commit suicide - by fire.

[Brian H]

Only the output on the XPPF is filtered.
If you need a higher amperage filter.
The ACT AF120 is a fifteen amp one and the Smarthome 1626-10 FilterLinc is a ten amp one. It also has a passthrough unfiltered output. As it blocks the whole outlet.