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[wztaylor]

I say "simple" because it is probably simple to you all, but I do not know the answer, nor can I get a consistant answer from item descriptions and X10 online help.

I started into X10 years ago with the security system bundle, then slowly added a few wall switch controllers, flood lights, etc.  So far any lighting that is controlled are incandescant bulbs.  I have CFL's in the most used places in the LR & kitchen and would like to make them controlled as well.  My house is 50+ years old and the switches are not in the most logical/convenient places.  The other challenge with the age of the house is that almost all of the outlets are 2-pin only - no option for the 3-pin grounded plugs.  We had an electrition convert a couple in the LR to run the TV, stereo equipment, and computer.  Then there are GCFI receptacles where you would expect them in the kitchen, laundry, and bathroom, but that's it.

So getting to my question ... It appears the the 3-pin appliance module is the only one that it listed as suitable for CFL bulbs.  But I can only plug that in with a 3-to-2 pin converter.  Would that still be a workable/safe way to control the CFL lamp?  Or would the 2-pin appliance module accomplish the same thing?  I also wanted to replace a couple wall receptacles with the X10 controleld receptacles, but the X10 unit was too big to fit into the existing wall casing.  I see from reading other topics that the socket rockets work well with the CFL.  Would that be the best way to go instead of the module?

Thank you for your help on this seemingly simple questin.  I did some forum searches and read quite a few of the topics, but couldn't find anything specifically about my concern of the 3-pin module converted for a 2-pin plug.  I apologize if this has been asked & answered somewhere else.

(BTW, I am not an electronics guru and will admit that most of the fixes & mods I've read about regarding CFL's are not within my comfort zone.  I enjoy self-teaching DIY stuff and simple household wiring like replacing fixtures, switches, fans, etc.  But I would be more apprehensive to start tinkering with internal electronics without understanding the big picture of what I'm doing.  Bottom line, I'd rather have something to set-up that works without studying to mascarade as an electrician to rig this, that, and the other for optimal results.  And no, I have no plans on needing to dim anything!)

Thanks again,
Wendy

[Brian H]

I am not sure why X10 doesn't say the two pin appliance module is CFL friendly, unless they are older and have older electronics in them. As both use to have the same board in it. The Ground Pin runs from the male input pin to the female output jack and does not connect to the internal electronics at all. So using a three pin adapter should work. Except now the module kind of hangs there off the adapter.
I am sure if someone that has the two pin appliance module and it is CFL friendly. They may provide that information.

I have not used Socket Rockets and CFLs but I have seen other reports of good results.

[wztaylor]

Thanks for your input, Brian.  You are right, it is the idea of the module sticking out on the converter that makes me hope that the 2-pin will work the same at that point.  I am curious to hear if someone confirms that a 2-pin is fine for a CFL when a 3-pin is not an option (or a less than ideal option).

[Tuicemen]

As just about all my lights are CFLs I did run some lamps with the 2 pin appliance modules. (older home here too)
The lights worked fine for me with them  but didn't like the ON/Off click from the module.
So I've converted almost all to socket rockets or switched to lamp modules with LED lights
 

[dave w]

Thanks for your input, Brian.  You are right, it is the idea of the module sticking out on the converter that makes me hope that the 2-pin will work the same at that point.  I am curious to hear if someone confirms that a 2-pin is fine for a CFL when a 3-pin is not an option (or a less than ideal option).

You never heard this from me, I never said this:

Someone told me the ground pin on an Appliance Module (be it new or old) can not stand up to a hack saw or Dremel tool. Unfortunately the same must be said about the X10 warranty 

[Brian H]

In the early days of Insteon when a Smarthome Employee actually answered questions in their forums. I asked when the two pin ApplianceLincs where going to be released. Well due to no damand never made.
I was told that Smarthome would NEVER officially suggest you cut off the ground pin. 
Like the X10 appliance module. The pin connects from the input to the output but not to the internal electronics at all.

[wztaylor]

Dave, HA! that's geat.  Too bad I didn't hear it.

I don't mind accidentally dropping something sharp on a ground pin (I've done it to a number of things already), but was just unsure if somehow that ground pin made the difference in a CFL working normally/safely or not.   Thanks to all of you who reassured me that it would be fine.  But since I have none of the modules yet - just figuring out what I need to buy - there's no point in buying a 3-pin to whack when a 2-pin or socket rocket will do. I do like the idea of the quieter socket rocket, but again, the X10 descriptions point out incandescant only.

Sorry to belabor what should be a simple purchase.  I just don't want to waste money doing trial & error with a bunch of different modules.  Or waste lots of money toasting CFL's in the wrong modules, or worse, losing tons of money by toasting the house. 

[Dan Lawrence]

Dave, HA! that's geat.  Too bad I didn't hear it.

I don't mind accidentally dropping something sharp on a ground pin (I've done it to a number of things already), but was just unsure if somehow that ground pin made the difference in a CFL working normally/safely or not.   Thanks to all of you who reassured me that it would be fine.  But since I have none of the modules yet - just figuring out what I need to buy - there's no point in buying a 3-pin to whack when a 2-pin or socket rocket will do. I do like the idea of the quieter socket rocket, but again, the X10 descriptions point out incandescant only.

Sorry to belabor what should be a simple purchase.  I just don't want to waste money doing trial & error with a bunch of different modules.  Or waste lots of money toasting CFL's in the wrong modules, or worse, losing tons of money by toasting the house. 

Despite X10 saying the Socket Rocket is incandescent only, I and others have successfully used SS13s with CFLs in them with ZERO problems.  SS13 Socket Rockets do not dim!!!

[finalquest]

Greetings ! I have a few older AM466 & 486 appliance moduels. When I use  them with CFL's the lights flicker and then usually come back on. I remember that somebody had a fix, like clipping something. Any help is appreciated.

[Dan Lawrence]

The cheap & easy way is to plug a 3 way tap into the module, one leg has a 4 watt night light plugged into it, the other leg has the lamp cord plugged into it.   The night light draws the trickle current off from the CFL when the module of off so no flicker.  Some CFLs aren't bothered by trickle current but none are marked that way.

[Brian H]

The night light bulb is the easiest but here is a link to the modification.
Note even with the diode cut. There is still a very small sensing current on the outlet. To detect if the witch is on or off.
http://www.laureanno.com/
In the X10 Modifications tab.

[wztaylor]

Thank you for everyone's input regarding my options.  Just to follow up on what I tried ...

I had one socket rocket on hand so i tried it with my current CFL's in the lamp where it would be used.  It turned on without problem from the mini timer but the bulb hummed.  Without thinking I turned off the light with the lamp switch instead of the mini-timer.  That caused the circuit to blow and the room went dark.  So I put everything back the way it was and thought maybe I should leave well enough alone.  The CFL bulbs were old Sunbeams that I bought years ago.  Somewhere else in this forum recommended NVision from Home Depot.  So I went to get a couple of those and gave it one more try.  They work great, no humming, and I can turn the switch on the lamp without blowing the room's circuit.  So now I feel much better about going ahead and getting more socket rockets and NVision bulbs for other lamps.

Course in the process of getting back to playing with my X-10 stuff, I came across something else I hadn't thought of.  As I said in my first post I started with X10 with the security system. So the security console has been my transceiver for RF signals.  But everything I am currently using is wired (wired switches, mini timers, etc.) and I am not using any remotes with RF signals. A while ago my security console died.  No idea what happened - it's just doornail dead with no lights or response of any kind.  And by not using RF remotes, it hadn't dawned on me that I wouldn't be able to send RF signals even if I wanted to.  So after getting the CFL & socket rocket working, I put up a slim line wireless switch at the front door.  So the whole thing was kind of anti-climactic when I realized I was still a new security console away from getting full use of the new toys.  And I know I can just get a cheap transceiver, but I want to get the security stuff working again also, so I might as well just get the one thing.

Sorry to ramble ... just wanted to let you all know that I appreciated you sharing your experiences and advice.