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[patrenhack]

I am controlling 3 different sets of florescent lights (3 or 4 per switch). I am using WS13A switches. After a lot of intermittent problems, I narrowed it down to TWO sources of problems.

1.My TV/Cable box prevents the switches from turning on (i.e. the switches respond if the TV & Cable box are unplugged).

2.Once ON, the switches will not turn off if I use florescent lights.

Obviously this is due to noise. I understand need filters. I found a lot of info on noise but no clear solutions.

Before I return all my X10 products, can anyone recommend a filter for the  TV & Cable box? Is there a filter I can use for the florescent lights? If yes, how can this be installed? Are there switches with filters built in?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Brian H]

For the cable box a plug in X10 filter should be fine.
X10Pro XPPF or Smarthome FilterLinc should be fine.

There are wire in X10 filters for for things like light fixtures.
Can be mounted in the fixture itself or in the electrical box where the X10 switch is. Connected to the load side.
Do you know how much current the lights use?
The Leviton 6287 is a five amp one used by some here.
If they use a heavier current there are others like the 20 amp X10Pro XPF but it is very large.
With three or four lights on a switch. You would have to know the current to be 100% sure.
I am thinking the five amp Leviton may not be heavy enough.

[dave w]

$0.02
It sounds like you have a small system. If you plan on it staying small, a couple of filters will get your system working. However if you are thinking of expanding your system or possibly whole house automation, you might think about a high output repeater.  A good repeater will boost the X10 powerline signal to levels high enough to over power most noise, and this high output is coupled to both power phases in your home. A good high output repeater is JD Engineering's XTBIIR, or the ACT CR234. The X10 and Leviton repeaters, although less in cost are more problematic and unreliable.

[patrenhack]

Thanks for the advise!

The reason I am using CFL (flourescent) lights is because the power is much lower (15W each). This equates to 60W max or only 1/2A per switch. The 5A filter would be fine except I would need one for each switch. At $20 each this would be $90 plus the cost of the filter for the TV & Cable box. Additionally, these do not look like they would fit in the electrical box. Maybe I could connect just before the first light in each circuit.

I do plan to expand the system with other (not CFL) lights and motion detectors. I think I would be better off with a repeater. Although I am cheap, I think this will be the most economical path in the long run.

I googled both the XTB-IIR and the CR234. The CR234 had mixed reviews but most love the XTB-IIR. What is your preference?

[Brian H]

I had an ACT CR234 and it failed shorhtly after the waranty expired. I then got a replacement CR134 {only difference can be used on 3 phase or split single phase}. It worked OK.
It did get into an X10 firestorm with a CM15A until I set the "Don't Repeat Known Repeated Signals" to Enabled.

I now use a XTB-IIR and it would be my choice.

I also have the XTBM Signal Tester and using it. My X10 signal is >9.99 volts on some outlets. 9.99 volts is the maximum display so the signal maybe even stronger. I also have one branch circuit with some serious signal suckers. About 7.5 volts on the outlets with all of the offenders disconnected and about 1.75 with them all connected. Since 1.75 volts is way above the minimum signal needed for my modules. No added filters where needed.

You still may have to filter some noise makers if they are a serious problem. I have a EarthLed EvoLux S LED bulb that I retired. Because it was >.99 volts of noise when On. I decided to use a filter on my APC BX1000 UPS also.

[dave w]

I googled both the XTB-IIR and the CR234. The CR234 had mixed reviews but most love the XTB-IIR. What is your preference?

FWIW

I have a CR234 which has worked flawlessly since 1995, but I have heard no bad words about the XTBIIR, only raves. And Jeff Volp of "JV Digital Engineering" frequents this forum almost daily and is quick to provide help and answer questions. 

If my ACT234 ever smokes, I will be quick to get a XTBIIR (Sorry Phil Kingery....speaking of whom, I will be attending his wedding this Saturday and will pass on regards from "all the old dogs" on this forum  ).

[Brian H]

When my vendor subbed a CR134 for my out of stock CR234 at no added cost.
I questioned if it was 100% compatible.

Through the Vendor. Phil took the time to send a detailed email on how it was used and what every switch in it did. Now that is caring support.

[Dan Lawrence]

I am controlling 3 different sets of florescent lights (3 or 4 per switch). I am using WS13A switches. After a lot of intermittent problems, I narrowed it down to TWO sources of problems.

1.My TV/Cable box prevents the switches from turning on (i.e. the switches respond if the TV & Cable box are unplugged).

2.Once ON, the switches will not turn off if I use florescent lights.

Obviously this is due to noise. I understand need filters. I found a lot of info on noise but no clear solutions.

Before I return all my X10 products, can anyone recommend a filter for the  TV & Cable box? Is there a filter I can use for the florescent lights? If yes, how can this be installed? Are there switches with filters built in?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cable box?  Whose cable box.   We've had cable TV since 1983,  X10 came along in 1985.  Never a noise problem.

[patrenhack]

Thanks again.

The cable box is a Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD. It could be my TV (i unplugged both at the same time).

One more thought. Should I concider giving up on the flourescent bulbs and going to standard flood lights? I used flourescents because 75W of light but < 15W per bulb and I have 11 total. If I do use standard, I would try to return my WS13A wall switches. Is X10.com take returns easily?

[dave w]

Thanks again.

The cable box is a Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD. It could be my TV (i unplugged both at the same time).

One more thought. Should I concider giving up on the flourescent bulbs and going to standard flood lights? I used flourescents because 75W of light but < 15W per bulb and I have 11 total. If I do use standard, I would try to return my WS13A wall switches. Is X10.com take returns easily?

It's likely to be the TV, especially if a flat screen.
FWIW
I have CFLs and switching power supplies all over the house, and the ACT 234 repeater cranks out enough signal to over come their generated noise. I do have to filter the microwave...I bet I wouldn't if I had a XTBIIR however.

[Brian H]

Using a different brand CFL may also make a difference.
My XTBM shows very little X10 band noise from CFLs and CCFls I have in service but tests of other brands do show X10 band noise.

I second the thought on it may have been the TV. Many are known to be either noise makers or signal suckers.

Some tutorials on noise, signal suckers and general X10 information.
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm
http://www.act-solutions.com/PCC/uncle.htm

[Dan Lawrence]

What's odd it we've had 2 HDTV's, one a Philips and the second an Insignia and neither caused any interference with X10 signals despite being less than 10 feet from the PC with AHP plus the CM15A. 

[dave w]

What's odd it we've had 2 HDTV's, one a Philips and the second an Insignia and neither caused any interference with X10 signals despite being less than 10 feet from the PC with AHP plus the CM15A. 

No not really that odd... All flat panel TVs incorporate switching power supplies so likley generate switching noise...some generate X10 inband noise and some do not. Same is true of microwave ovens. We have a Panasonic Microwave that is a quiet as a mouse and a Sharp that generates enough noise to kill X10 signals in one third of the house. You can't condem all flat panel TVs, or all microwaves, or all cell phone chargers, etc. Would be a lot easier if we could.

JV engineering's XTBM signal/noise meter is the key.